UC-NRLF 


- 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


\ 
3 


THE 

SCHOOL  GARDEN 
BOOK 


BY 

CLARENCE   M.   WEED 

1 1 

State  Normal  School,  Lowell,  Massachusetts 

AND 

PHILIP    EMERSON 

Cobbet  Grammar  School,  Lynn,  Massachusetts 


ILLUSTRATED 


NEW  YORK 
CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S    SONS 

1911 


Copyright,  1909,  by 
CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTION 3 

PART   I 
THE   GARDEN   MONTH   BY  MONTH 

AFTER 

I.     SEPTEMBER 29 

Modern  Dahlias.  Growing  Plants  from  Cuttings.  A 
Glorious  Autumn  Flower.  Planting  Bulbs  Out-doors. 
The  September  Calendar. 

II.     OCTOBER -55 

Cosmos:  A  Beautiful  Annual.  Sweet  Herbs.  Getting  the 
Garden  Ready.  California  Poppies.  Growing  Hya- 
cinths In-doors.  The  October  Calendar. 

III.  NOVEMBER 73 

The  Chrysanthemum.  Autumn  Perennial  Flowers. 
Planting  Daffodils  In-doors.  Annual  Flowers  for  Win- 
dow-boxes. The  November  Calendar. 

IV.  DECEMBER 89 

Flowering  Plants  for  Window  Gardens.  Growing  Lily- 
of-the-Valley  In-doors.  The  Selection  of  Seed.  Grow- 
ing Named  Varieties.  Roman  Hyacinths.  The  De- 
cember Calendar. 

V.     JANUARY 103 

Attractive  Foliage  Plants.  Clay  Flower-jars.  Seed 
Testing.  The  Classification  of  Vegetables.  The  Jan- 
uary Calendar. 

VI.     FEBRUARY 123 

Daffodils.  Starting  Early  Vegetables.  Seed-Leaves  or 
Cotyledons.  The  February  Calendar. 


258838 


CONTENTS 


VII.     MARCH .        .        .137 

A  Neighborhood  Garden  Club.  Starting  Early  Flowers. 
Radishes.  The  March  Calendar. 

VIII.     APRIL 153 

Children's  Home  Gardens.  The  Spring  Awakening. 
Planting  Hardy  Annuals.  The  April  Calendar. 

IX.    MAY ...     171 

Hardy  Perennials.  Climbing  Vines.  Window-boxes  and 
Porch-boxes.  Planting  Tender  Annuals.  The  May 
Calendar. 

X.     JUNE       . 193 

Iris  Border  Gardens.  Beets,  Turnips  and  Carrots. 
Poppies.  Summer  Flowering  Bulbs.  The  June  Cal- 
endar. 

XI.     JULY 213 

Sweet  Peas.  Beans  for  Garden  Culture.  The  Structure 
of  the  Flower.  Nasturtiums.  The  July  Calendar. 

XII.    AUGUST 227 

Useful  Flower-jars.  Marigolds.  Pot  Herb  Crops.  Plan- 
ning for  Winter  Flowers.  Pansies.  The  August  Cal- 
endar. 


PART  II 
GARDEN  EXERCISES   FOR  PUPILS 

XIII.  GENERAL  EXERCISES 245 

XIV.  SPRING  FLOWERING  BULBS 249 

XV.     FLOWERS  FROM  SEED     .                ....  266 

XVI.     VEGETABLES    .        .                 289 

BIBLIOGRAPHY     .        .        .                 '315 

INDEX ....  317 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 

A  Prize  Garden  and  Its  Gardener    ......  Frontispiece 

PAGE 

Garden  of  the  South  End  Industrial  School,  Roxbury,  Massachusetts         2 
Window-box  of  Sheet  Zinc  ........         4 

White  Hyacinths  in  Paper  Pot  set  in  Jardiniere  ....         5 

Some  Good  Weeders  .         .         .         .         .  -.         .         .         .         8 

China  Aster  Seedling  .         ...         .         .         .         .         .  13 

A  Young  Gardener  and  His  "Team" 15 

Single  Cactus  Dahlia 27 

Striped  Single  Dahlia:    Fedora    .         .         .       •'.       •  .         .    •    ..         .       28 

A  Show  Dahlia 30 

Decorative  Dahlia:    Mrs.  Winters        .         .         .  .         .32 

Rooted  Cutting  of  Geranium       .         ...         .  ,         .36 

Young  Geranium  Grown  from  a  Cutting  38 

Young  Geranium  Plant  in  a  Paper  Flower-pot  38 

Begonia  Stem  Cutting          .........       39 

Gloxinia  Leaf  Cutting          .         .         .......       39 

China  Asters        .         .         .         .         .  .         .  42 

Dwarf  Comet  Asters    .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         -43 

Comet  Asters  in  Bamboo  Holder.     From- "The  Flower  Beautiful"  .       44 
Fifty  Bulbs  of  Campernelle  Jonquil     .          .          .          .          .          .          .46 

Long-stemmed  Tulips          .         .         .         .         .         .         .  .48 

Bulbs  of  Madonna  Lilies     .         .         .         .  .         .         .         -49 

White  Cosmos     . "    .         -53 

Pink  Cosmos  in  Austrian  Glass  Vase  ....         ...       54 

Parsley  Seedling  ..........       59 

Spearmint  Cuttings  Rooting  in  Sand  .         .  .         .         .         .60 

Sage  Seedling       ...........       61 

A  Young  Gardener      .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .62 

California  Poppies  in  a  Slender  Vase  ......       65 

Hyacinth  Growing  in  Water  in  a  Tall  Hyacinth  Glass    ....       66 

Three  Hyacinth  Bulbs  Grown  in  Four-inch  Paper  Flower-pot    .         .       67 

vii 


viii  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Chrysanthemum  Flower       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  71 

Chrysanthemums  in  a  Japanese  Cylinder  Jar 72 

New  England  Asters  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar 80 

Twelve  Bulbs  of  Chinese  Lily  Narcissus     ......       82 

Water  Culture  of  Chinese  Lilies 83 

Water  Culture  of  Paper-white  Narcissus 83 

Single  Geranium          ..........       87 

Single  Geranium  in  a  Japanese  Jardiniere 88 

The  Baby  Primrose 90 

Cyclamen  Blossoms 91 

Lilies-of-the- Valley  in  Japanese  Flower-jar 92 

Plumose  Asparagus      .         . 101 

Silk  Oak  or  Grevillea 102 

Seedling  Asparagus  Sprengeri      .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .105 

Norfolk  Island  Pine  in  a  Japanese  Jardiniere     .         .         .         .         .106 

Rex  Begonia  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar        .         .         .         .         .         .107 

The  Umbrella  Plant 108 

Crocus  in  a  Clay  Flower-jar        .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .109 

Tomato  Seedlings  in  a  Window-box    .         .         .         .         .         .         .112 

Trumpet  Daffodil         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .121 

Single  Trumpet  Daffodils  in  a  Japanese  Jardiniere     .         .         .         .122 

A  Double  Daffodil %         .         .         .124 

The  Stella  Narcissus 124 

Trumpet  Daffodils 126 

Onion  Seedling 129 

Tomato  Seedlings:     The  Rise  and  Fall  of  the  Cotyledons  .         .     131 

Crocus  Blossoms 135 

Poet's  Narcissus.     From  "The  Flower  Beautiful"      ....     136 

A  Home  Garden:     Cobbet  School,  Lynn,  Massachusetts    .         .         .     138 
Wild  Cucumber  ..........     139 

Three  Generations  in  the  Home  Garden     ......     142 

French  Marigold          .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         -145 

Nasturtium  Seedling  in  Paper  Flower-pot  .         .         .         .         .146 

Easter  Lily  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  151 

Tulips  for  the  Home  Garden 152 

A  Boy's  Home  Garden 155 

A  Good  Home  Garden *  158 

Parsnip  Seedling 160 

Getting  the  Garden  Ready 163 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS  ix 

PAGE 

Drummond  Phlox        ..........     165 

Blossoms  of  Coreopsis          .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .166 

Trumpet  Daffodils 169 

Peonies  in  a  Japanese  Flower-j^j         .         .         .         .         .         .         .170 

Perennial  Phlox  .         .         .         «         .         .         .         .         .         .172 

Trollius  or  Globe  Flower     .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         -173 

Plan  for  a  Border  Garden  of  China  Asters 188 

Oriental  Iris         ...........     191 

Siberian  Iris         ...........     192 

Plan  for  Iris  Border  Garden        .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .194 

German  Iris         ...........     195 

Japanese  Iris       ...........     197 

Bulbs  of  English  Iris 198 

Plan  for  Subirrigation          .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  199 

White  Shirley  Poppies.     From  "The  Flower  Beautiful"     .         .         .     206 
Gladiolus     .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .     207 

A  Jar  of  Tuberoses     ..........     208 

Celia  Thaxter's  Garden       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .211 

Hooded  Sweet  Peas 212 

Typical  Forms  of  Hooded  Sweet  Peas         .         .         .         .         .         .214 

Snapdragon  Sweet  Peas       .         .         .         .         ..         ..         .215 

Shirley  Poppy      .         .         .         .         .         ...         .         .         .218 

Snapdragon          ,......'....     219 

Nasturtiums  in  a  Rose  Bowl        .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .221 

Madonna  Lilies  ..........     225 

Oriental  Iris  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar         .         .         .         .         .         .226 

Perennial  Phlox  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar 228 

Nasturtiums  in  a  Green  Glass  Flower-jar    .         .         .         .         .         .229 

Cosmos  in  a  Slender  Vase 230 

Japanese  Iris  in  an  Izumo  Vase  .         .         .         .         .         .         .231 

Tall  or  African  Marigolds 233 

African  Marigolds  in  a  Bamboo  Wall-holder.     From  "The  Flower 

Beautiful" 234 

A  Plan  for  a  Marigold  Border  Garden .235 

***  The  authors  desire  to  express  their  thanks  to  Roger  Newton  Perry  for  the  photo- 
graph of  "A  Young  Gardener  and  His  Team";  to  the  Committee  on  Children's  Gardens  of 
the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society,  for  several  of  the  other  out-door  views;  to  the  Hough- 
ton-Mifflin  Company  for  the  privilege  of  using  the  four  pictures  and  the  short  discussion  of 
Poppies  from  "The  Flower  Beautiful";  and  to  Misses  Isabelle  Cragin  and  Alice  Manning  for 
several  of  the  drawings  of  flowers  and  young  plants. 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

INTRODUCTION 

From  the  point  of  view  of  this  book  the  school  garden  is 
any  garden  in  which  a  boy  or  girl  of  school  age  takes  an 
active  interest.  It  may  be  simply  a  tiny  seedling  growing 
in  a  little  flower-pot  in-doors  or  an  extensive  series  of  garden 
crops  growing  in  a  large  garden  out-doors.  So  far  as  crops 
are  concerned,  however,  the  scope  of  the  book  is  limited  to 
flowers  and  vegetables,  no  attempt  being  made  to  include  the 
fruits,  large  or  small,  the  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  or 
the  agricultural  crops. 

The  gardens  to  be  considered  from  this  point  of  view  may 
be  collective  or  individual,  or  both;  they  may  be  in-doors  or 
out-doors,  or  both;  they  may  be  at  the  school  or  the  home, 
or  both.  In  all  of  these  cases  the  plants  to  be  grown  are 
much  the  same  and  the  methods  involved  in  growing  them 
are  similar.  Yet,  a  short  preliminary  discussion  of  special 
plans  and  methods  to  be  used  in  connection  with  these 
various  kinds  of  gardens  may  be  worth  while. 

In-door  Gardens 

Few  objects  add  so  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  a  school- 
room, or  a  living-room  in  the  home,  as  a  good  window-box 
filled  with  beautiful  flowering  plants.  In  the  great  majority 
of  cases  such  a  box  will  be  much  more  successful  as  well  as  a 

3 


4,  .-THE;  SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

great  deal  more  attractive  than  are  the  unsightly  flower-pots 
which  are  so  commonly  used  for  growing  plants  in-doors. 

Five  things  are  required  by  a  living  plant — food,  warmth, 
moisture,  light,  and  air:  granted  these,  a  plant  should  live 
and  thrive  in  almost  any  sort  of  situation.  The  proportions 
in  which  different  plants  require  these  five  essentials  vary 
decidedly,  and  in  growing  flowers  in  the  house  we  must 
understand  the  conditions  required  by  the  particular  plant 


Window-box  of  Sheet  Zinc. 

we  are  dealing  with.  In  general,  the  necessary  conditions 
are  most  easily  given  by  means  of  window-boxes,  which  may 
be  placed  near  the  window  that  an  abundance  of  light  and 
air  may  readily  be  obtained.  And  it  is  not  at  all  necessary 
that  this  window-box  should  be  a  crude,  unsightly  affair: 
it  should  rather  be  a  carefully  made,  attractive  object,  har- 
monizing with  the  interior  of  the  room  and  adding  to  its 
general  effect.  It  is  worth  while  to  go  to  some  trouble  and 
expense  in  order  that  the  receptacle  for  such  a  little  garden 
in-doors  should  be  so  attractive  that  it  may  always  be  used 
with  satisfaction. 

The  most  satisfactory  window-boxes  are  made  of  sheet 
zinc,  and  are  of  a  length  and  width  to  fit  the  window-sill  or 
to  rest  upon  brackets  just  beneath  it,  and  of  a  height  of  four 
or  five  inches.  Under  the  ordinary  conditions  of  a  furnace 
or  steam  heated  home  or  school-room,  plants  will  thrive  in 


INTRODUCTION  5 

these  water-tight  boxes  with  absolutely  no  provision  for 
drainage  or  the  escape  of  surplus  moisture  from  the  bottom. 
Evaporation  takes  place  so  rapidly  from  the  upper  surface 
of  the  soil  that,  with  any  reasonable  common  sense  in  water- 
ing, there  is  no  danger  of  the  souring  of  the  soil  .or  of  the 
checking  of  the  growth  of  the 
plants.  In  watering  it  is  only 
necessary  to  pour  in  enough 
water  about  twice  a  week  to 
saturate  the  soil  and  then  to 
leave  it  until  the  surface  has 
become  dry  again. 

These  boxes  should  be  re-en- 
forced around  the  top  with  a 
strip  of  wire,  and  if  t  hey  are 
very  long  another  wire  should 
run  across  from  side  to  side  in 
the  middle.  They  can  be  made 
by  any  tin-smith,  and  when 
complete  should  cost  about  one 
dollar  apiece.  They  should  be 
painted  on  the  outside,  and  at 
least  part  of  the  way  down  on 
the  inside  with  dark-green  carriage  paint.  When  thus  ready 
for  use  they  are  to  be  filled  with  rich  loamy  garden  soil, 
Whereupon  they  may  be  utilized  in  growing  almost  any  sort 
of  plant  that  will  thrive  in-doors. 

Instead  of  being  made  of  zinc  alone  these  boxes  may  be 
made  of  wood  and  lined  with  zinc.  The  wood  may  be 
finished  to  harmonize  with  the  wood-work  of  the  room. 
Very  attractive  boxes  may  be  made  of  old  cedar  wood. 


White  Hyacinths  in  Paper  Pot  Set  in 
Jardiniere. 


6         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

Such  boxes  are  particularly  useful  for  starting  seedlings,  as 
well  as  for  holding  flower-pots  in  which  bulbs  or  other  plants 
are  growing.  They  have  the  great  advantage  that  they  can  be 
turned  end  for  end  at  frequent 'intervals  and  thus  cause  the 
leaves  and  blossoms  of  the  plants  growing  in  them  to  take 
on  a  symmetrical  appearance.  There  is  also  an  advantage 
in  the  fact  that  in  very  cold  weather  such  boxes  can  easily  be 
removed  from  the  window. 

In  general,  such  window-boxes  will  be  in  the  nature  of 
collective  gardens,  representing  the  interest  of  the  whole 
school.  As  a  rule  the  only  individual  gardens  practicable 
in-doors  will  be  those  grown  either  in  special  small  boxes  or 
in  flower-pots.  Such  individual  gardens  are  practicable  in 
the  case  of  a  number  of  plants  which  may  be  grown  from 
seed,  as  well  as  in  the  case  of  the  spring  flowering  bulbs  and 
various  plants  which  are  grown  from  cuttings.  The  paper 
flower-pots,  which  may  be  obtained  from  any  florist  or  seeds- 
man, are  in  many  respects  more  desirable  than  the  ordinary 
pottery  ones.  They  have  special  advantages  in  their  cheap- 
ness, in  the  ease  with  which  they  may  be  stored  away  in 
little  space,  in  the  small  amount  of  room  they  take  up  when 
placed  side  by  side  in  a  window-box  or  on  a  plant-shelf,  and 
especially  in  the  fact  that  evaporation  does  not  take  place 
from  the  sides  of  the  pots  as  it  does  in  the  case  of  the  ordi- 
nary flower-pots. 

These  paper  pots  are  not  easily  broken,  so  they  can  be 
carried  safely  from  the  school  to  the  home  by  little  children, 
and  they  are  so  inexpensive  that  any  school  can  afford  to 
provide  them  for  the  use  of  the  pupils.  The  smaller  sizes 
cost  but  twenty-five  cents  per  hundred. 


INTRODUCTION  7 

Out-door  Gardens 

Passing  now  to  the  out-door  gardens,  we  come,  of  course, 
to  a  field  in  which  the  range  of  possibilities  varies  with  the 
conditions  of  almost  every  school.  It  is  true,  however,  that 
even  under  the  most  adverse  conditions  some  kind  of  collec- 
tive garden  at  least  is  possible.  If  it  is  nothing  more  than 
an  outside  window-box,  it  may  easily  become  of  important 
service  in  the  work  of  the  school.  In  collective  gardens  short 
rows  or  parts  of  longer  rows  may  be  planted  by  individual 
pupils  in  connection  with  a  plan  for  a  complete  whole,  in 
which  the  part  done  by  each  pupil  shall  serve  as  a  unit.  For 
any  gardens  but  the  very  smallest  this  will  probably  be  found 
a  more  satisfactory  method  than  to  have  the  collective  garden 
planted  without  distinguishing  the  part  done  by  each  pupil. 

The  school  which  has  an  opportunity  for  each  pupil  to 
have  an  individual  garden  is  fortunate  indeed.  The  size  as 
wrell  as  the  crops  to  be  grown  will  depend,  of  course,  upon 
the  conditions  and  the  interest  shown  by  the  teacher  and 
pupils.  Such  crops  may  be  planned  for  the  entire  season  or 
for  only  the  early  part  of  the  season,  and  suggestions  for  the 
special  crops  to  be  grown  under  these  varying  conditions  will 
be  found  in  the  later  pages  of  this  book. 

The  final  end  of  the  school  garden  is  the  home  garden.  In 
any  community  the  success  of  the  school  garden  movement 
after  it  has  been  in  operation  for  a  number  of  years  will  prop- 
erly be  measured  by  its  results  in  bringing  about  a  general 
love  for  flowers  and  plants,  as  shown  by  the  gardens  and 
home  grounds  of  the  pupils  that  have  been  in  attendance. 
In  the  case  of  the  home  gardens  the  opportunities,  of 
course,  are  infinitely  varied,  but  here  again  it  will  almost 


8 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


always  be  possible  for  a  pupil  who  so  desires  to  have  some 
sort  of  garden. 

The  tools  necessary  for  school  garden  work  are  neither 
elaborate  nor  expensive.  A  spade,  a  hoe,  a  rake,  and  a 
trowel  are  perhaps  the  most  essential  parts  of  the  garden 
outfit;  and  it  is  very  desirable  that  they  be  supplemented  by 


Some  Good  Weeders. 

one  or  two  good  forms  of  weeders,  a  garden  line,  and  a 
watering-can,  the  latter  especially  in  those  cases  when  water- 
ing from  a  hose  is  not  practicable.  When  once  supplied  these 
tools  will,  of  course,  last  indefinitely,  and  pupils  should  always 
leave  them  thoroughly  clean  and  hung  in  the  proper  places. 
If  the  only  visible  results  of  the  school  garden  work  are 
found  in  the  crops  grown,  the  garden  has  only  served  a  part 
of  its  purpose.  It  should  supply  the  material  for  a  consider- 
able proportion  of  the  school  work  in  drawing  and  Knglish, 
and  may  very  well  help  to  vitalize  the  work  in  arithmetic  and 
geography.  At  least  one  garden  booklet  should  be  made  by 
every  pupil  who  has  anything  to  do  with  the  garden,  this 
booklet  to  contain  the  drawings  and  language  records  of  the 
pupils.  In  the  following  pages  this  phase  of  the  work  has 
been  constantly  kept  in  mind,  and  some  of  the  illustrations 
are  transcripts  from  such  garden  records  or  suggestions  for 
helping  to  make  them.  A  pocket  note-book  for  each  pupil 


INTRODUCTION  9 

will  be  desirable,  in  order  that  the  memoranda  of  dates  may 
be  made  at  the  proper  time. 

Plans  and  Problems 

School  gardens  should  present  in  concrete  form  the  best 
ideals  for  home  gardens  and  grounds.  It  is  desirable,  there- 
fore, that  the  design  and  planting  plans  for  the  surroundings 
of  a  new  school,  or  for  the  betterment  of  an  old  school-yard, 
should  be  prepared  by  a  landscape  gardener  employed  for 
the  purpose.  Where  this  is  not  yet  possible,  a  superin- 
tendent or  principal  should  take  special  pains  to  study  the 
conditions  of  a  school-yard  and  its  surrounding  homes,  then 
apply  the  principles  of  general  landscape  gardening  as  pre- 
sented in  the  completed  development  of  school  grounds  else- 
where. The  work  of  carrying  out  these  plans  should  be 
done  by  the  pupils,  in  the  course  of  a  series  of  years,  that  they 
may  properly  profit  thereby,  and  protect  as  their  own  these 
improvements. 

In  general,  lawns  bordered  by  shrubbery  and  hardy  flower- 
ing plants,  with  vines  clothing  the  walls  of  the  school  building, 
should  characterize  the  school  grounds  next  the  street,  a 
type  of  good  home  grounds.  The  out-door  school  gardens 
are  best  placed  at  the  side  of  the  school  buildings,  when  a 
sunny  exposure  is  possible  there,  separated  from  ample 
playgrounds  in  the  rear  with  their  bordering  shade  trees. 
For  many  schools  and  teachers,  however,  the  practical  prob- 
lem must  be  that  of  accomplishing  results  with  little  encour- 
agement at  first  and  under  difficult  conditions.  But  there, 
too,  a  fine  and  fit  ideal,  wisely  set  forth  in  practicable  plans 
according  to  which  one  may  work,  is  essential  to  economy  of 
effort  and  to  full  success. 


io        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

All  difficulties  may  be  overcome.  Where  school-yard  space 
is  very  limited,  it  is  likely  that  homes  are  likewise  crowded  in 
close  tenements.  Then  outside  window  1  >orch  and 

shed  tops,  should  be  utilized.  <  )r  the  sunny  borders  of  the 
playground  may  be  planted,  being  protected  by  a  low.  stout 
rail  from  encroaching  play.  In  return,  the  remaining  play 

•  may  be  multiplied  by  home- made  apparatus.     It  i 
prising  how  many  children  find  amusement  on  a  long  four- 
inch  plank  tilt,  or  swarm  up  and  down  climbing  ladders, 
poles,  and  ropes.     So,  if  ground  already  limited, 

carry  either  Harden-  or  play  into  the  air. 

A  school  garden  need  not  be  in  the  school-yard,  although 
most  parts  of  one  are  best  placed  there.  Adjoining  back 
yard-  and  near-by  vacant  lots  may  be  used.  Wherever  ad- 
t  houses  encroach  on  gardens,  it  will  be  found  that 
much  valuable  soil  now  lies  fallow.  The  former  owners  have 
departed,  and  present  tenant.-  either  do  not  know  the  gar- 
r's  art  or  lack  time  and  inclination  to  apply  it.  But 
they  will  often  accord  to  a  school  the  privilege  of  using  a 
weedv  back  yard  or  neglected  garden.  Its  management  the 
first  year  determines  the  continuance  of  the  privilege.  If 
a  back  yard  is  small,  it  may  still  supply  space  for  a  propa- 
gating bed  of  perennials,  or  opportunity  to  experiment  with 
various  annual  flowers  and  to  raise  seedlings  for  distribution 
to  home  gardens.  A  larger  yard  or  a  vacant  lot  may  be 
divided  into  individual  garden  plots,  so  that  every  pupil  of  a 
class  or  grade  may  have  independent  practice  under  school 
supervision. 

Many  school-yards  have  been  graded  with  gravel  and  ashes 
to  form  playgrounds,  so  that  lack  of  good  soil  is  an  obstacle 
to  making  a  garden.  This  condition  frequently  requires 


INTRODUCTION  u 

rather  costly  measures.  Some  soils  may  be  enriched  by  lib- 
eral manuring,  and  for  this  purpose  fertalizers  may  be 
obtained  free  of  expense  from  near-by  stables,  even  in  a  city. 
Some  schools  have  made  a  start  on  a  small  scale  with  soil 
brought  from  the  woods  and  from  home  gardens  in  little 
bags  by  the  children.  Thoroughgoing  work,  however,  implies 
the  purchase  of  soil  in  liberal  quantity.  While  this  should 
be  provided  by  the  school  authorities,  some  communities  are 
not  yet  ready  to  approve  such  public  expenditure.  Ex- 
perience shows  that  in  such  cases  it  is  possible  to  raise  funds 
easily  by  a  school  entertainment  or  by  a  subscription  taken 
among  the  parents.  To  use  the  money  to  the  best  advan- 
tage, one  should  watch  for  the  opportunity  to  secure  the  soil 
from  a  contractor,  when  a  cellar  is  being  dug  on  a  lot  with 
good  soil  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  school.  It  is  wise  to 
place  the  soil  deeply,  say  twenty  inches  in  depth,  rather  than 
in  a  shallow  layer  in  order  to  secure  a  larger  garden.  Plants 
will  live  in  shallow  soil,  but  they  thrive  in  thoroughly  culti- 
vated deep  soil. 

In  some  communities  public  sentiment  may  still  class 
school  gardening  as  a  useless  fad.  This  hostility  may  be 
changed.  The  hearty  endorsement  and  co-operation  of 
superintendent  and  school  board  is  a  first  requisite.  The  aid 
of  the  press  may  be  secured  to  praise  the  work  elsewhere,  to 
call  for  its  introduction,  to  approve  heartily  the  first  efforts  in 
the  community,  to  call  for  its  active  development  and  for 
the  substantial  aid  of  the  authorities.  In  connection  with  a 
parents'  association,  or  an  improvement  club,  a  public  meet- 
ing may  be  held  to  present  values  and  methods,  for  school 
gardening  only  needs  to  be  fairly  presented  to  win  ample 
support. 


12         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

At  times  hoodlums  discourage  school  gardening  by  up- 
rooting and  overturning  plants  and  flower- boxes  in  sheer 
vandalism.  This  has  been  overcome  in  many  places  by 
persistent  effort  until  general  pride  in  the  results  secured 
affects  even  the  members  of  street  gang-  and  insures  their 
appreciation.  Such  a  victory  is  well  worth  the  patience, 
skill,  and  labor  it  costs,  for  it  means  that  home  grounds  and 
gardens  will  be  respected  as  never  before,  because  of  the  finer 
public  spirit  developed  and  spread  through  the  children  to 
every  neighborhood  and  home. 

School  Garden  Exhibits 

Competitive  exhibitions  of  garden  products  are  very  help- 
ful in  extending  and  intensifying  interest  in  horticulture. 
When  one  sees  an  array  of  beautiful  flowers  of  many  types 
and  varieties,  or  tables  set  forth  with  displays  of  fair  fruit  and 
line  vegetables,  he  wishes  he  possessed  a  garden  full  of  such 
products,  and  quite  naturally  resolves  to  grow  another  season 
the  sorts  that  please  him  best.  Moreover,  every  exhibitor, 
comparing  his  choicest  products  with  those  shown  by  others, 
is  stimulated  to  renewed  endeavors,  that  he  may  rank  as  high 
or  higher  at  the  next  prize  competition.  Exhibitions  of  the 
products  of  school  gardens  and  children's  home  gardens 
have  repeatedly  proved  the  means  of  convincing  the  public 
that  gardening  by  children  is  worth  while,  for  the  best  results 
from  many  districts  and  homes  are  thereby  impressively 
massed,  and  many  people  may  visit  such  displays  easily. 

An  exhibition  should  be  planned  in  advance  if  possible. 
The  classes  of  exhibits  in  which  entries  are  desired  should  be 
announced  in  the  papers  or  by  circulars.  The  announce- 
ment may  invite  general  displays  of  flowers  and  also  of 


INTRODUCTION 


vegetables,  from  school  gardens  and  from  children's  gardens, 
or  it  may  ask  for  exhibits  of  flowers  and  vegetables  of  a  few 
sorts  that  the  children  are  thus  stimulated  to  grow  with 
special  care.  In  the  latter  case  it  is  usual  to  limit  the  num- 
ber of  specimens  allowed;  for  example,  to  a  dozen  vases 
of  Comet  Asters,  one  blossom  in 
each,  or  to  four  heads  of  lettuce. 
This  favors  quality  rather  than 
quantity,  and  makes  it  easier  to 
compare  exhibits.  A  few  simple 
rules  as  to  entries  and  the  award 
of  prizes  should  be  adopted  and 
announced.  As  an  aid  in  prepar- 
ing these,  send  to  the  secretary  of 
some  horticultural  or  agricultural 
society  of  your  section  asking  for 
their  schedule  of  exhibits  and 
prizes. 

In  the  case  of  a  children's  gar- 
den exhibition,  it  is  wise  to  make 
sure  that  many  children  will  cer- 
tainly exhibit  products,  for  they 
often  fear  to  do  so  in  the  belief  that  their  products  are  not 
worthy.  It  is  often  advisable,  also,  to  get  the  best  amateur 
gardeners,  the  most  successful  farmers,  local  florists,  and  large 
estates  of  wealthy  men  who  employ  professional  gardeners, 
to  contribute  displays,  if  the  hall  is  large  enough.  Their 
fine  exhibits  need  not  discourage  the  children,  nor  belittle 
the  children's  achievements  in  the  mind  of  the  public. 
They  will  rather  heighten  the  enthusiasm  of  both  children 
and  public  for  the  fine  art  of  horticulture. 


China  Aster  Seedling. 


i4  Tin:   SCHOOL    G  iRDl  N 

It  is  well  to  >ace  at  a  school  garden  exhibition   for 

•cd  illustrations  of  the  regular  school  work  that  is  based 
upon  the  gardening.      For  example.  >>f  sketches  of 

flowers  and  plants  in  line  and  color,  illustrating  the  work  cf 
succe  ides,  may  be  hung  fr«  -.inst  the  walls. 

The  note-books  of  the  children,  and  their  booklets  of 

lies  with  pen.  pencil,  and  brush  describing  chosen 
flowers,  may  be  placed  on  a  table.  The  public  will  be  as 
much  interested  in  this  handiwork  as  in  the  flowers  and 
tables.  A  display  of  photographs  of  gardens  and  of  flowers 
form-  an  appropriate  and  attractive  feature  for  an  exhibition. 
The-  general  public  will  be  especially  interested  if  at  an- 
nounced hours  of  the  afternoon  and  evening  groups  of  chosen 
pupils  may  be  si-en  at  work.  Some  may  draw  or  paint  flow- 
may  show  how  plants  should  be  propagated 
from  slips,  making  cuttings,  and  setting  them  in  sand,  and 
also  polling  cuttings  already  rooted.  These  potted  slips 
may  then  be  sold  for  the  benefit  of  the  school  garden-fund. 

;iaps  an  agricultural  fair  or  horticultural  display  is  to 
be  held  near  your  school.  If  so,  be  sure  to  enter  products 
from  your  garden.  Kvcn  if  they  win  no  prize,  you  will  find 
11  worth  your  effort,  for  you  will  see  more  clearly  what 
you  must  do  to  succeed  another  year.  Study  the  list  of 
classes  of  exhibits  and  the  rules  carefully.  Plan  your  entries 
in  advance'.  Prepare  neat  exhibition  labels  giving  the  names 
of  all  varieties  you  intend  to  show.  Very  early  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  exhibition  day  cut  the  flowers  you  have  chosen  for 
display,  and  in  case  they  are  to  be  carried  some  distance, 
lay  them  loosely  and  (arc-fully  in  a  roomy  box  separated  by 
paper,  where  they  will  be  kept  free  from  wilting  or 
injury.  In  the  case  of  vegetables,  say  carrots,  dig  enough 


INTRODUCTION  15 

roots  so  that  you  may  choose  specimens  to  the  required 
number  that  are  of  large  and  uniform  size,  and  of  regular 
form.  Before  leaving  home,  clean  in  water  carefully  those  se- 
lected. At  the  hall  first  enter  your  exhibit  and  learn  where 
it  should  be  placed.  Secure  bottles  of  water  for  the  flowers, 
trays  for  the  vegetables,  and  then  carefully  take  your  ex- 


A  Young  Gardener  and  his  "Team." 
A  Prize  Winner  in  the  Garden  Contest  of  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society. 

hibits  from  their  boxes  and  properly  arrange  them.  Avoid 
crowding  a  display.  Dispose  its  parts  carefully  to  give  the 
most  pleasing  effect.  Plan  it  as  you  would  a  design  at  school, 
applying  the  same  principles. 

It  is  the  custom  to  award  prizes  to  the  best  exhibits.  In 
the  case  of  children's  garden  exhibits,  it  is  probably  best  to 
have  the  judges  rank  them  in  classes,  with  an  indefinite  num- 


16        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

her  in  each  class.  This  stimulates  the  children  to  attain  a 
certain  standard  rather  than  to  distance  a  competitor.  If 
this  should  call  for  many  prizes,  it  need  not  entail  great 
expense,  for  the  best  prizes  for  young  gardeners  are  supplies 
for  their  gardens.  Plants,  bulbs,  books,  and  the  like  for  this 
purpose  may  be  purchased  very  cheaply  at  wholesale,  and 
will  often  be  donated  by  interested  dealers.  Ribbon  badges, 
a  color  for  each  rank,  have  value  as  prizes,  also. 

A  horticultural  exhibition  by  a  school  or  town  is  well  worth 
all  the  elTort  it  may  cost.  Since  it  may  be  made  profitably 
even  on  a  very  small  scale,  one  may  be  successfully  planned 
and  conducted  after  school  opens  in  September.  Or  a  group 
of  children  may  conduct  one  in  their  neighborhood.  Get  the 
children  and  home  gardeners  living  near  you  interested.  The 
editor  of  your  paper  will  announce  your  Flower  Show.  Some 
parents  will  provide  money  for  bulbs  as  prizes,  or  a  small 
r  admission  may  be  charged  for  the  same  purpose.  It 
ran  be  held  in  some  open  barn  or  clean  carriage-house,  if  no 
better  hall  or  room  seems  available.  Get  a  teacher,  the 
Dearest  florist,  and  the  parent  most  interested  in  flowers  to 
act  as  judges.  Try  it. 

School  Garden  Management 

The  method  of  conducting  school  garden  work  depends 
upon  the  standing  and  stage  of  development  of  this  phase  of 
education  in  a  community.  At  first  the  work  may  have  to 
be  done  at  recess  and  after  school  by  the  pupils,  at  the  initia- 
tive and  under  the  direction  of  their  teachers.  This  plan 
possesses  the  merit  of  being  wholly  voluntary,  hence  it  enlists 
the  interest  and  loyalty  of  the  pupils  to  the  full.  It  can  no 
more  succeed  to  the  full  as  a  permanent  plan  in  gardening 


INTRODUCTION  17 

than  with  any  other  branch  of  instruction.  Before  long,  how- 
ever, gardening  will  be  given  recognition  in  the  authorized 
division  of  time  for  most  school  systems.  At  first  the  work 
may  seem  strenuous,  for  a  teacher's  ingenuity  must  be  exer- 
cised to  properly  supervise  a  portion  of  a  class  at  work  at  their 
desk  and  a  group  busy  in  the  garden. 

Some  teachers  have  accomplished  wonders  under  such  a 
plan,  especially  where  a  principal  gives  his  active  co-operation. 
Much  good  work  may  be  accomplished  by  sending  pupils  out 
in  small  squads,  threes  or  fours,  to  perform  definite  tasks. 
One  pupil  should  be  foreman  in  each  squad.  A  written  state- 
ment of  work  to  be  done,  a  contract,  should  be  given  him. 
This  foreman  should  be  a  reliable  boy  or  girl,  possessing 
good  judgment  and  a  capacity  for  leadership.  The  teacher 
must  see  that  he  understands  the  contract  and  the  detail  of 
the  task.  When  completed,  the  results  will  be  examined  by 
the  teacher.  This  plan  enables  a  teacher  to  keep  class- 
room work  continuously  in  hand,  while  allowing  pupils  most 
needing  garden  work  to  undertake  it  during  the  time  of 
studies  in  which  their  standing  is  high  or  which  are  not  vital 
to  their  advancement.  Further,  it  trains  boys  and  girls  to 
act  under  the  guidance  of  their  fellows,  and  to  give  directions 
to  their  equals,  in  turn. 

Wherever  there  is  an  enthusiastic  teacher  or  earnest  public 
there  will  be  related  interest  and  devotion  on  the  part  of 
children,  and  ways  and  means  will  be  found  to  conduct  the 
school  garden.  Some  schools  have  organized  garden  clubs 
for  home  garden  work  in  different  neighborhoods  and  have 
federated  them  for  co-operation  and  to  maintain  the  school 
garden.  Improvement  societies  in  some  towns  and  cities  have 
hired  garden  teachers  to  give  instruction  in  the  schools  and  to 


i8  Till     SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

vi>it  the  home  gardens  throughout  the  summer.  Teachers 
in  many  schools  have  made  gardeni:  -cess  through 

their  o\\  n  dev<  mill  the  authorities  took  tlie  work 

up  and  provided  special  instructors  and  facili; 

The  most  sati.-factoi  ,  arc,  of  course,  secured  where 

a  specially   trained   ir-  employed   to 

direct   the  work  of  cl;  I   \\  ho  may  personally 

instruct  groups  of  pupils  in  the  school  gardens  and  visit  home 
«/ardcn>.  Some  school  systems  provid  ial  teacher  to 

c-u-ry  large  -chool.  or  to  two  smaller  schools,  who  is  unassignc-d 
to  a  mploycd  mainly  to  make  the  graded 

school  sy-tem  more  elastic  by  aiding  pupils  who  are  slow  to 
comprehend,  or  who  have  lost  work  through  absence,  to 
maintain  or  regain  class  standing,  and  by  helping  the  ablest 
j)upils  to  skip  grades  without  loss  of  essentials.  This  appeals 
to  all.  the  most  conservative  included,  as  worth  the  expense. 
Incidentally,  such  a  teacher  makes  it  possible  to  conduct  field 
study  by  groups  of  pupils  with  an  effectiveness  seldom  at- 
tained by  regular  class  teacher-.  She  is  also  available  to 
take  groups  of  pupils  into  the  garden  for  systematic  work  in 
planting  and  culture.  I'ndcr  this  plan  it  is  wholly  possible 
to  secure  a  teacher  in  each  school  who  shall  be  thoroughly 
competent  to  give  garden  instruction  and  thus  ensure  full 
success  from  the  start. 

School  Gardening  for  Profit 

While  the  true  purpose  of  a  school  garden  or  a  child's 
home  garden  is  educational,  it  may  often  best  attain  this  end 
when  it  becomes  commercially  successful,  at  least  to  the 
extent  of  becoming  self-supporting.  A  school  garden  will 
naturally  give  many  plants  to  its  pupils  as  prizes  to  stimulate 


INTRODUCTION  19 

home  gardening,  and  it  may  also  easily  earn  money  enough  to 
meet  all  its  expenditures  by  selling  plants,  flowers,  and  vege- 
tables to  the  public. 

Fresh  vegetables  of  fine  quality  command  high  prices. 
The  public  are  ready  to  pay  fancy  prices  to  schools  or  to 
children  without  question  at  the  start,  and  they  are  willing 
to  continue  to  do  so  if  the  quality  of  products  warrants  it. 
This  puts  a  premium  on  raising  the  best  of  everything  that 
is  as  effective  a  stimulus  as  a  prize  competition.  While  it 
is  well  worth  while  to  compete  at  horticultural  exhibitions, 
because  pride  in  the  school  or  home  garden  will  be  augmented 
by  success  in  winning  prizes,  the  finest  success  is  measured 
rather  by  the  production  of  vegetables  and  plants  that  find  a 
steady  market. 

There  are  various  vegetables  rarely  seen  in  markets  that 
may  be  raised  profitably  for  neighborhood  sale.  For  exam- 
ple, Swiss  chard  wilts  on  the  shelves  of  a  stall,  but  when 
freshly  cut  for  dinner  it  is  the  finest  summer  pot-herb  imagi- 
nable. Customers  who  commence  its  use  continue.  Families 
tired  of  red  turnip  radishes  from  the  markets  will  relish  crisp 
white  icicle  radishes  or  summer  radishes  from  a  boy's  home 
garden.  Those  weary  of  stale  and  stringy  pod  beans  from 
the  stores  will  delight  in  tender  beans  picked  in  the  neighbor- 
hood but  an  hour  before  dinner.  A  garden  of  herbs  may  be 
managed  so  as  to  enlist  a  permanent  line  of  customers,  who 
will  send  for  their  mint,  tarragon,  dill,  sage,  and  the  like  as 
household  need  arises. 

The  best  plan  for  profits,  however,  is  the  sale  of  plants  for 
home  gardens.  The  main  costs  of  the  hardy  plants  catalogued 
by  large  dealers,  and  of  bedding  plants  supplied  by  local 
florists,  are  incident  to  advertising,  soliciting  orders,  packing, 


20        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

and  transportation.  A  school  may  sell  plants  at  a  third  or 
a  fourth  of  the  usual  retail  prices  and  yet  secure  a  good  income, 
since  the  costs  named  above  are  not  incurred  and  the  labor 
cost  is  nothing,  because  it  is  incidental  to  garden  instruction 
and  training. 

A  cold  frame  is  a  great  help  in  raising  plants  for  sale,  even 
in  the  case  of  vegetables,  as  it  enables  one  to  place  lettuce  and 
radishes  on  the  market  before  their  price  declines.  A  cold 
frame  requires  no  special  skill:  it  is  merely  a  glazed  sash,  or 
several  sashes,  resting  on  low  plank  sides  so  as  to  incline  to 
the  south,  and  serving  both  to  trap  the  sun's  heat  and  to 
protect  plants  from  frost,  wind,  and  beating  rains.  Under 
its  cover  annual  flowering  plants  may  be  thickly  planted  in 
March.  The  hardy  sorts  may  be  pricked  out  in  the  open  in 
April,  leaving  space  to  transplant  tender  kinds  within  the 
frames.  In  May  and  June  these  are  ready  for  sale  to  the 
public,  and  for  award  as  prizes  to  children  whose  home 
gardens  show  that  the  plants  from  school  will  receive  careful 
culture  at  their  hands.  When  the  frames  are  cleaned  of 
annuals,  seeds  of  biennial  and  perennial  flowering  plants  may 
be  sown.  By  late  August  these  may  be  transplanted.  The 
fully  hardy  sorts  may  be  set  in  the  open  garden.  This  gives 
frame  space  to  separate  half  hardy  kinds,  such  as  pansies  and 
daisies,  wallflower  and  snapdragon.  Those  that  are  trans- 
planted with  difficulty,  like  oriental  poppies,  may  be  set  in 
pots  sunk  in  the  soil  of  the  frames.  All  of  these  will  be  ready 
for  sale  in  early  spring,  and  in  time  to  give  room  for  separating 
seedlings  of  annuals  needing  frame  protection.  This  general 
plan  has  met  success  in  schools  of  both  western  and  eastern 
cities. 

There  is  ready  sale  for  pots  of  bulbs  which  have  been  well 


INTRODUCTION  21 

rooted  and  are  ready  to  be  brought  to  the  warmth  and  light 
for  flowering.  Many  people  enjoy  seeing  them  push  up  their 
leaves,  bud  and  blossom,  who  have  neither  time,  skill,  nor 
patience  to  give  the  care  necessary  to  start  the  bulbs.  They 
will  pay  so  liberally  that  the  school  need  be  at  no  expense  for 
the  bulbs  and  supplies  it  keeps  for  its  own  use.  Here  again 
the  plan  of  raising  plants  for  sale  leads  to  the  purchase  and 
care  of  so  many  bulbs  of  a  kind  that  every  pupil  may  be  given 
'ample  practice  in  their  culture. 

Text-bookj  Class-room,  and  Garden 

Study,  teaching,  and  training  should  be  closely  related  in 
school  gardening.  The  garden  supplies  materials  and  experi- 
ence as  a  basis  for  class-room  sketching,  discussion,  and  com- 
position. The  experiments  and  discussion  of  the  class-room 
make  clear  the  principles  of  plant  nature  upon  which  success- 
ful culture  is  founded.  Portions  of  this  text  form  a  manual 
of  directions  for  field  experiments  in  the  garden  as  a  labora- 
tory. Other  pages  best  follow  the  garden  work  and  class- 
room consideration  of  the  simpler  features  of  special  topics. 

A  good  plan  to  use  as  an  introduction  to  the  study  of  dahlia 
types,  for  example,  is  the  display  of  a  collection  of  dahlia 
flowers  before  the  class.  Frequently  the  children  can  bring 
many  varieties  from  their  homes.  Local  gardeners  will 
gladly  contribute  blooms  of  the  varieties  they  keep  for  sale, 
and  many  commercial  growers  of  dahlias  will  send  a  box  of 
the  blooms  marked  with  their  variety  names,  if  a  school  will 
pay  the  express,  since  future  orders  will  well  repay  the  trouble. 
When  secured,  place  each  variety  in  a  vase  or  bottle.  Have 
the  children  arrange  them  in  groups  according  to  the  char- 
acter of  the  blossoms.  Then  give  them  the  names  for  the 


22        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

standard  types.  Let  the  class  choose  those  that  are  most 
graceful  and  pleasing  as  cut  flower-.  Have  them  note  which 
types  and  \ariet ie>  are  rnoM  lastfflj  :'.  clny-anthe- 

mum,  iris,  and  oilier  leading  families  of  llnwers  may  wisely 
:ve  similar  consideration. 

This  class  study,  with  its  training  in  observation  and  oral 
expression,  will  naturally  l;e  accompanied  and  followed  by 
sketching  the  flowers  and  by  writing  brief  descriptions  of 
chosen  types  or  comparisons  between  type-.  Thereafter  the 
pupils  will  appreciate  to  the  full  the  summary  given  in  the 
text  and  be  prepared  to  continue  sketchc>  and  notes  on  the 
dahlia  for  a  September  llower  booklet. 

^'hen  considering  the  care  of  dahlia  tubers,  tell  the  pupil 
the  origin  of  the  plant,  compare  it  with  the  potato,  and  lead 
them  to  infer  the  care  probably  necessary.  Then  raise  ore 
] ;lant  from  the  soil,  with  its  tubers  and  roots,  and  have  the 
pupils  observe  the  narrow  necks  of  many  tubers,  the  buds  at 
the  ba>e  of  the  stalk,  the  abundant  sap,  and  other  features 
necessary  to  judge  the  pains  needed  when  digging  and  storing 
dahlia  tubers.  Thereafter  the  text  serves  as  a  summary  of 
views  formed  independently  upon  a  basis  of  observation  and 
inference  at  school,  and  as  a  guide  to  further  well-directed 
observation  and  work  at  home. 

The  same  general  procedure  .should  be  followed  with  other 
topics.  The  chapter  on  reproducing  plants  from  cuttings 
may  wisely  be  preceded  by  a  class  r\  herein  the  teacher 

calls  attention  to  the  roots  starting  from  the  blunt  lower  end 
of  an  old  geranium  plant,  once  a  slip  itself,  and  leads  the 
children  to  relate  previous  home  experience  with  slips  and 
plant  propagation. 

Most  children  have  a  general  knowledge  of  some  common 


INTRODUCTION  23 

vegetables  and  flowers.  A  preliminary  lesson  should  review 
this  practical  information  and  use  it  as  a  means  of  judging 
the  proper  cultural  methods.  Then  the  class  will  turn  to  the 
book  with  interest  and  compare  their  conclusions  with  those 
based  on  longer  experience.  If  some  then  prefer  their  own 
way,  well  and  good;  they  will  then  give  special  care  to  the 
succeeding  experiment  to  see  how  far  they  may  be  right. 


.    PART  I 
THE  GARDEN  MONTH  BY  MONTH 


SEPTEMBER 


Single  Cactus  Dahlia. 

A  garden  should  be  connected  with  every  school,  where 
children  can  at  times  gaze  upon  trees,  flowers,  and  herbs, 
and  be  taught  to  enjoy  them. — COMENIUS. 


-il  Sin^lr  D;ihli;i:    I-Yil-.ra. 


I 

SEPTEMBER 
MODERN  DAHLIAS 

The  month  of  September  is  a  season  for  the  enjoyment  of 
flowers  full  more  than  for  their  culture.  Our  appreciation 
of  anything  depends  very  largely  upon  our  knowledge  of  it. 
Consequently,  if  we  are  to  take  the  greatest  delight  in  the 
September  blossoms,  we  need  to  know  them  intimately.  As 
we  learn  to  distinguish  the  leading  types  and  varieties  by 
name  we  come  to  appreciate  more  fully  the  peculiar  charac- 
teristics of  form,  color,  or  fragrance  that  gives  to  each  the 
grace  and  interest  we  prize. 

An  excellent  wray  to  learn  to  know  a  flowrer  is  to  reproduce 
it  in  some  sort  of  drawing.  Consequently,  the  pages  for  the 
garden  booklet  of  this  opening  month  of  the  school  year  may 
well  be  a  record  with  pencil,  brush,  or  pen  of  the  leading 
classes  of  the  prominent  autumn  flowers.  As  you  become 
familiar  with  the  choice  treasures  of  the  school  garden,  you 
will  plan  quite  naturally  to  grow  some  yourself  another  year, 
and  this  is  a  good  season  to  secure  seeds,  bulbs,  or  slips  of 
the  sorts  that  please  you  best. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  recent  developments  in  the 
growing  of  plants  is  the  renewed  interest  in  the  cultivation  of 
the  dahlia.  A  few  years  ago  this  flower  was  seldom  found 
outside  the  old-fashioned  gardens,  where  the  large  globular 

varieties,  of  the  type  called  the  Show  Dahlia,  were  chiefly  in 

29 


3o  111!     M  IK)OL    GARDEN    BOOK 

evidence.  To  most  people  these  artificial-looking  blossoms 
had  very  little  interest,  and  consequently  were  rarely  planted. 
During  the  la>t  few  year-,  however,  the  general  introduction 
of  the  Pompon,  the  Decorative,  and  especially  the  Cactus 

Dahlias,  has  served  to  in- 
crease very  greatly  the 
popularity  of  the  flower, 
as  well  as  largely  to  ex- 
tend its  range  of  useful- 
ness. 

Several  well-marked 
types  of  dahlia  are  now 
available  for  any  garden, 
and  are  displayed  as  a 
central  attraction  of  every 
September  exhibit.  The 
Show  Dahlia  is  still  grown 
widely,  for  a  large  num- 
ber of  varieties  in  an  ex- 
traordinary range  of  color 
have  been  introduced, 
while  the  qualities  have 
been  greatly  improved 
through  careful  selection.  You  will  notice  them  in  very 
many  border  gardens,  where  they  make  a  pleasing  appearance 
along  fences  and  walls  or  the  sides  of  buildings.  While  too 
heavy  and  formal  to  possess  the  grace  one  desires  for  cut 
tlowers,  they  are  yet  extremely  beautiful  in  their  coloring. 
The  more  striking  varieties,  those  striped,  spotted,  or  with 
light  margins  to  the  petals  against  a  darker  ground  color, 
are  sometimes  separately  classed  as  Fancy  Dahlias,  although 


• 


MODERN   DAHLIAS  31 

this  adjective  is  used  in  distinguishing  similar  colored  vari- 
eties of  the  other  types. 

For  almost  a  century  the  Pompon  Dahlias  have  been 
grown,  especially  on  account  of  their  value  in  furnishing  cut 
flowers,  since  they  blossom  profusely  and  throughout  a  long 
period.  On  this  account  they  are  often  called  Bouquet 
Dahlias,  while  by  the  Germans,  with  whom  these  flowers  have 
been  very  popular,  they  have  been  commonly  called  Lilli- 
putian Dahlias.  They  originated  about  1808  with  a  German 
gardener,  who  is  said  to  have  first  obtained  the  flower  as  a 
sport,  or  accidental  variation,  from  the  single-flowered  dahlia. 
A  large  number  of  varieties  are  now  offered,  the  flowers  hav- 
ing a  great  range  of  coloring,  while  they  cost  less  than  new 
varieties  of  the  other  types.  The  plants  are  usually  low  in 
habit,  and  are  used  for  bedding  as  well  as  for  growing  in  the 
border  in  front  of  the  taller  classes  of  dahlias. 

By  far  the  most  popular  type  of  dahlia  is  the  cactus- 
flowered  form.  In  this  the  petals  have  the  edges  rolled  back 
lengthwise,  and  these  long,  narrow  florets  are  oddly  yet 
gracefully  curved  in  marked  contrast  to  the  Show  Dahlia. 
With  the  introduction  of  this  wonderful  blossom,  an  array 
of  possibilities  almost  as  great  as  has  been  seen  in  the  de- 
velopment of  the  chrysanthemum  was  at  once  opened  up. 
The  precise  origin  of  this  type  is  somewhat  mysterious.  In 
1872,  a  gardener  in  Holland  received  from  Mexico  a  box  of 
dahlias,  most  of  which  had  been  ruined  through  long  delay 
in  transit.  One  of  them,  however,  developed  into  a  Cactus 
Dahlia,  the  first  one  known  to  European  gardeners.  From 
this  single  plant  the  numerous  modern  varieties  have  been 
developed,  and  by  careful  selection  in  the  hands  of  many 
growers  the  blossoms  have  been  constantly  improved.  There 


32        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

arc  hundreds  of  beautiful  named   varieties  to-day,  varying 
-really  in  color,  and  very  soon  we  may  expert,  a  llowcr  which 
tremely  desirable  for  many  purposes.     At  present  most 
of  th<  blias  do  not  last  Ion-  as  cut  flowers;  but 

this  quality  is  being  improved,  and  the  (lowers  are  so  beau- 
tiful for  interior  decora- 
tion as  well  as  lor  garden 
adornment  that  one  ran 
attord  to  renew  a  supply 
in  the  tlower  jars  at  fre- 
quent intervals. 

The  Decorative  Dahlia 
is  another  recently  de- 
veloped and  very  desira- 
ble type.  It  has  very 
large,  loosely  formed  bios 

soms,  with  broad  petals, 
of  a  type  somewhat  in- 
termediate between  the 
Show  and  CactusDahlias. 
\Yh  ile  the  Decorative 
Dahlias  have  not  t  h  e 
bizarre  beauty  of  form 
shown  by  the  cactus  sorts,  they  are,  nevertheless,  attractive  in 
a  quiet  way,  and  are  useful  for  cutting  as  well  as  for  the  border 
garden.  Although  it  has  frequently  been  predicted  that  they 
would  go  out  of  cultivation  in  competition  with  the  cactus 
forms,  many  new  and  beautiful  varieties  are  introduced  every 
year,  and  the  catalogues  continue  to  give  long  lists  of  sorts, 
an  indication  that  they  are  holding  their  own  in  popular 
favor. 


Decorative  Dahlia:    Mrs.  Winters. 


MODERN  DAHLIAS  33 

The  single  dahlias  are  among  the  most  striking  blossoms 
produced  in  modern  gardens.  The  flowers  are  of  immense 
size,  with  the  broad  petals  of  the  ray  florets  furnishing  a 
ground  for  the  most  lavish  display  of  color.  The  flowers 
are  so  large  that  they  attract  attention  from  a  considerable 
distance,  and  consequently  may  be  used  along  walls  and 
fences  which  are  too  far  awray  from  the  garden  paths  to  be 
adorned  by  plants  with  smaller  flowers.  The  sub-type  of 
Century  Dahlias  is  one  of  the  most  striking  of  recent  intro- 
ductions. The  plants  are  tall  and  branch  freely,  while  the 
flowers  are  correspondingly  large,  sometimes  over  seven 
inches  in  diameter. 

For  decorative  grace  that  renders  them  of  extraordinary 
value  for  use  as  cut  flowers,  none  of  the  dahlias  can  compare 
with  the  single  cactus  forms.  There  is  an  element  of  beauty 
about  these  that  reminds  one  of  the  orchids,  and  their  long 
petals  display  some  of  the  most  delicate  colors  imaginable. 
Any  one  who  aspires  to  a  representative  collection  of  dahlias 
should  certainly  plant  some  of  this  type,  of  which  Lord 
Goff  is  one  of  the  best  varieties. 

Some  forms  are  intermediate  between  single  and  double 
types  of  dahlias.  Very  recently  semi-double  Peony  Dahlias 
have  been  introduced  from  Holland,  which  are  akin  to  the 
Decorative  Dahlia  in  their  large,  loose  petals  and  pleasing 
flower  form.  As  is  always  the  case  with  a  flower  which  is 
leaping  into  popularity,  some  types  are  introduced  which 
have  merely  the  value  of  oddity,  but  in  which  the  real  beauty 
of  the  flower  has  been  sacrificed.  In  the  case  of  the 
dahlia  this  is  illustrated  in  the  French  Collarette  Dahlias, 
which  have  been  largely  advertised  as  a  desirable  novelty. 
No  one  with  a  discriminating  sense  of  the  beauty  of 


34        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

flowers  would  care  to  plant  these  monstrosities  a  second 
season. 

(live  every  leading  dahlia  type  place  in  your  note-book. 
Make-  sketches  of  typical  dahlia  blossoms,  and  if  the  flower 
details  arc  too  difficult  for  you  to  paint  or  draw,  then  care- 
fully represent  in  color  or  line  one  typical  floret.  Illustrate 
in  other  ways  your  accounts  of  the  form  and  coloring  of  the 
blossoms,  the  habits  of  the  plants,  and  their  uses.  If  you 
take  photographs,  mount  some  that  show  fine  groups  of 
dahlias,  and  place  with  them  in  your  book  plans  that  show 
how  dahlias  are  used  in  the  best  gardens  in  your  community. 
Pictures  of  the  different  types  may  be  cut  from  old  cata- 
logues and  used  to  illustrate  some  pages.  Make  a  list  of  the 
best-named  varieties  under  each  type  which  you  see  at  the 
September  flower  shows,  as  a  guide  to  purchase  the  following 
spring. 

Probably  you  have  some  dahlias  in  your  school  or  home 
garden.  They  will  soon  need  care.  Since  the  plant  origi- 
nated in  Mexico  it  is  not  hardy  in  a  cold  temperate  climate, 
and,  like  the  potato,  the  tubers  must  be  cared  for  in  some 
cellar  through  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  first  frosts  have 
blighted  the  bloom  and  foliage  of  the  dahlias,  their  stalks 
should  be  cut  down  to  within  a  foot  of  the  ground,  and  the 
mass  of  tubers  should  be  lifted.  Push  a  spading  fork  under- 
neath the  clump,  from  a  distance  to  one  side,  then  raise 
tubers  and  soil  together.  This  should  be  done  so  carefully 
that  no  tubers  will  be  cut  or  torn  from  the  plant,  for  the  buds 
are  at  the  base  of  the  stalk,  and  a  piece  of  dahlia  tuber,  un- 
like a  cutting  of  a  potato,  cannot  produce  a  plant. 

The  tubers  must  be  kept  in  some  cellar  such  as  is  suitable 
for  storing  potatoes  or  root  crops.  It  should  not  be  too  near 


MODERN   DAHLIAS  35 

the  furnace  where  the  tubers  will  dry  up,  neither  where 
they  will  freeze,  nor  where  abundant  moisture  will  favor 
fungous  growth  and  decay.  Since  the  stalk  holds  an  abun- 
dance of  watery  sap,  the  tubers  should  be  placed  on  their  side 
for  a  day  or  two  to  allow  this  to  run  off,  thus  avoiding  decay 
of  the  base  of  the  stalk  with  its  buds.  The  earth  floor  of  a 
cellar  closet  or  bin  is  usually  a  safe  place  for  storing.  Some 
pack  the  clumps  loosely  into  barrels.  Every  clump  should 
be  marked  with  the  variety  and  type  names  on  a  wooden  tag 
wired  to  the  base  of  the  stalk.  If  you  have  no  dahlias  of 
your  own  to  care  for  thus,  quite  possibly  some  neighbor  may 
have  a  surplus  of  some  sorts  and  be  glad  to  give  you  or  your 
school  clumps  which  he  himself  does  not  intend  to  take  up 
and  preserve. 

GROWING  PLANTS  FROM  CUTTINGS 

An  eminent  horticulturist  has  said  that  one  plant  in  a  tin 
can  may  be  of  more  help  and  inspiration  to  some  mind  than  a 
whole  lawn  With  beautiful  flowers  may  be  to  another.  One 
who  has  loved  and  cherished  a  garden  of  any  kind  will  be 
able  to  appreciate  the  truth  of  this  statement,  and  to  realize 
the  delight  to  be  found  in  watching  a  plant  as  it  grows.  This 
delight  is  felt  to  its  fullest  extent  when  one  has  started  the 
plant  himself  and  has  toward  it  the  feeling  one  has  for  the 
things  of  his  own  growing. 

Aside  from  the  growing  of  plants  from  seed  the  simplest 
method  of  propagating  many  plants  is  by  Cuttage.  This  is 
defined  as  "the  practice  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by 
the  means  of  cuttings."  And  a  cutting  is  defined  as  "a 
severed  portion  of  a  plant  inserted  in  soil  or  water  with  the 
intention  that  it  shall  grow;  a  slip." 


36        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

It  is  easy  to  see  that  the  requirements  of  a  part  of  the 
plant  thus  cut  off  from  any  connection  with  the  roots  are 
different  from  those  of  the  normal  growing  plant.  The  lat- 
ter thrives  in  direct  sunshine  and  in  the  open  air,  the  water 
which  passes  freely  from  the  leaves  being  replaced  through 
thr  roots;  but  in  the  cutting  no  such  replacing  of  water  can 
take  place  unless  the  ait  end  is  in  water  or  some  material 

saturated  with  water.  The  cut- 
ting is  a  plant  without  a  root,  and 
its  first  business  is  to  develop  a 
root  system.  The  cuttings  of 
many  plants  will  do  this  quickly 
and  surely  if  we  give  them  the 
right  conditions. 

The  simplest  way  of  inducing 
a  cutting  to  send  out  roots  is  to 

Rooted  Cutting  of  Geranium.  pi**  it  in  water.       If  yOU  will  put 

the   end   of  a  willow  twig  in  a 

bottle  of  water  for  a  few  weeks  you  will  see  the  roots  come 
out  in  great  numbers.  The  same  process  will  take  place, 
but  perhaps  more  slowly,  if  you  immerse  a  slip  of  a  Rose 
(uranium  or  an  end  of  a  gloxinia  leaf  in  water;  and  very 
><]  plants  of  these  flowers  may  be  started  in  this  way. 
A  method  that  is  not  quite  so  simple,  but  is  in  general  more 
satisfactory,  is  to  start  the  cutting  in  moist  sand  or  sandy 
soil.  For  this  purpose  a  special  little  garden  is  desirable.  A 
window-garden  box  or  a  shallow  box  of  almost  any  sort  may 
be  filled  with  two  or  three  inches  of  clean  sand  and  used  as  a 
propagating  box.  This  will  probably  be  the  most  satisfac- 
tory method.  When  the  cuttings  are  first  planted,  have  a 
sheet  of  paper  laid  over  the  box  to  exclude  direct  sunshine, 


PLANTS  FROM   CUTTINGS  37 

and  if  the  room  is  warm  and  dry,  arrange  to  confine  the  air 
in  the  box  by  a  covering  of  glass. 

The  commonest  cuttings  of  house  plants  are  stem  cuttings. 
One  of  the  simplest  illustrations  of  such  cuttings  is  to  be 
found  in  slips  of  the  common  geranium.  A  vigorous  branch 
is  cut  off  or  broken  off  at  a  place  where  it  will  snap  easily — 
for  roots  start  best  from  young,  growing  portions — and  is  then 
trimmed  off  just  below  a  node  or  the  place  where  a  leaf 
comes  out.  Only  two  or  three  leaves  should  be  left  on  the 
slip,  that  no  more  water  may  evaporate  than  the  plant  can 
supply  without  roots.  The  slip  is  now  ready  to  plant,  and 
should  be  inserted  into  the  sand  of  the  propagating  box  to  a 
distance  of  about  two  inches. 

In  a  few  weeks  a  special  hardened  tissue  called  the  callus  will 
have  formed  over  the  cut  end  of  the  stem,  and  a  little  later  roots 
will  appear  through  or  near  the  callus.  As  soon  as  these  roots 
are  started  the  new  plant  may  be  potted  in  a  small  pot,  where 
more  roots  will  continue  to  develop  as  the  plant  grows. 

The  geranium  is  an  illustration  of  what  is  called  a  soft- 
wood cutting.  One  can  also  grow  hard-wood  cuttings  in 
a  very  similar  way.  Early  in  spring  cut  from  a  thrifty 
young  willow  a  piece  of  twig  about  six  inches  long  and  insert 
it  in  sand  in  the  same  way  that  the  geranium  was  inserted. 
In  two  or  three  weeks  roots  will  have  started,  and  the  cutting 
may  be  planted  in  a  three-inch  pot,  and  later  planted  out- 
doors where  it  can  continue  to  grow.  Hard-wood  cuttings 
are  sometimes  induced  to  root  by  burying  them  in  the  soil  or 
sand  for  several  weeks,  then  bringing  them  to  the  surface  that 
the  buds  may  develop.  The  story  of  "  Mary's  Garden  and 
How  it  Grew"  gives  an  interesting  account  of  reproducing 
the  California  Privet  for  a  hedge  in  this  way. 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


Young  (li-ranium  drown  from  a  Cutting. 


Some  of  the  hardy  perennial 
flowering  plants  seem  to  make  and 
root  their  own  cuttings.  In  the 
case  of  many  tall-growing  peren- 
nials, such  as  the  heleniums  and 
boltonias,  the  old  stalks  and  roots 
die  after  they  bloom  in  the  au- 
tumn, but  a  ring  of  underground 
side  shoots  from  the  parent  stem 
start  roots  of  their  own,  and  in 
the  spring  make  independent 
plants  grouped  in  a  clump.  In 
consequence,  these  are  among  the 
easiest  of  all  plants  to  propagate. 

Some  weeds  have  the  same  habit,  unfortunately.     Worst  of 

all  is  witch  grass,  whose  underground   stems   root  at  every 

joint  and  may  send  up  a  shoot  from  any  joint.     Cutting  up 

such  a  pest  merely  multiplies  it  by  cuttings.     It  should  be 

carefully  picked  or  raked    from 

the  soil  and  destroyed. 
Another  method  of  propagating 

through  cuttings  is  found  in  those 

plants  which    are  multiplied  by 

means  of  sections  of  roots,  as  in 

the  case  of  common  horse-radish: 

these   are   called    root   cuttings. 

One  can  get  through  any  florist 

or  seedsman  bunches  of  horse- 
radish roots,  which  may  be  cut 

into  sections  three  or  four  inches 

long    and   be   carefully,  planted    Young  Ger|TowTrPof  in  a  Paper 


PLANTS   FROM   CUTTINGS 


39 


either    horizontally   or   with   the 
lower  end  down. 

Some  hardy  perennial  flowering 
plants  are  also  propagated  by  root 
cuttings.     If  you  will  cut  a  few  of 
the  thick  roots  of  a  clump  of  Per- 
ennial Phlox  this  fall,  then  next 
spring  lift  the  clump  for  division, 
you  will  find  that  buds  have  de- 
veloped on  the  cut  ends  of  the  Stem  Cutting'  Be«onia- 
severed  roots.    If  carefully  planted,  these  will  give  new  plants 
of  the  same  varieties. 

A  somewhat  similar  method  of  propagation  by  cuttings  is 
illustrated  in  the  case  of  the  common  potato,  which  is  a  tuber, 
or  thickened  underground  branch,  whose  eyes  are  buds. 
When  planted,  each  potato  is  commonly  cut  into  several 
pieces  in  order  that  many  new  plants  may  develop  from  a  sin- 
gle tuber.  Each  one  of  the  parts  thus  cut  off  is  a  tuber  cutting. 
Even  leaf  cuttings  may  be  made  in  the 
case  of  several  kinds  of  house  plants. 
This  is  one  of  the  best  ways  of  propagat- 
ing certain  sorts.  A  good  example  is 
the  gloxinia,  the  leafstems  of  which  root 
readily  in  water  or  in  moist  sand,  while 
buds  form  on  the  leaf  ribs.  The  thick 
leaves  of  many  of  the  begonias  also  take 
root  readily,  and  the  leaves  are  commonly 
utilized  for  growing  new  plants. 

Early  in  autumn  it  is  possible  for  any 
one  to  start  a  fine  garden  in-doors  with 
Gloxinia  Leaf  Cutting.      slight  expense.     Most  of  the  tender  plants 


40        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

that  make  banks  of  brilliant  color  in  parks  and  home 
grounds  are  allowed  to  die  when  frosts  come.  The  owners 
are  i^lad  to  supply  >lips  from  them  at  the  close  of  a  season; 
so  if  you  will  secure  the  boxes,  sand,  and  soil  necessary  for 
starting  and  growing  them,  you  can  obtain  the  plants  them- 
selves free.  Try  cuttings  from  various  plants  which  you 
admire;  experiment  in  rooting  the  slips  in  water,  sand,  and 
soil.  Thorough  knowledge  and  skill  will  come  with  ex- 
perience. 

A  GLORIOUS  AUTUMN  FLOWER 

On  the  twelfth  day  of  February,  1735,  Peter  Collinson, 
Botanist  Royal  to  the  British  Empire  by  appointment  of 
Kin(i^  George  II,  wrote  to  John  Bartram,  Botanist  Royal  to 
the  American  Wilderness  by  appointment  of  his  own  kingly 
soul:  "In  the  little  box  that  the  insects  came  in  are  some 
seeds.  The  China  Aster  is  the  noblest  and  finest  plant  you 
ever  saw,  of  that  tribe.  It  was  sent  by  the  Jesuits  from 
China  to  France;  from  thence  to  us:  it  is  an  annual.  Sow  it 
in  rich  mould  immediately,  and  when  it  has  half  a  dozen 
is  transplant  it  in  the  borders.  It  makes  a  glorious  au- 
tumn flower.  There  are  white  and  purple  in  the  seeds." 

Thus  it  is  probable,  as  it  is  fitting,  that  the  first  of  these 
noble  blossoms  to  expand  their  beauty  in  the  New  World 
grew  in  the  famous  garden  on  the  Schuylkill  River,  where 
the  life-long  labor  of  John  Bartram,  the  first  great  flower 
lover  in  America,  wrought  such  excellent  results.  It  is  pleasant 
to  fancy  the  tender  care  these  seeds  received  and  the  interest 
with  which  the  plants  were  watched  as  the  white  and  purple 
blossoms  opened  to  make,  as  the  good  Peter  had  written, 
"a  glorious  autumn  flower."  It  is  easy  to  imagine  that  the 


CHINA  ASTERS  41 

flowers  were  shown  to  many  visitors,  by  whom  .the  seed  was 
eagerly  sought  for  new  plantings. 

The  asters  which  were  first  grown  in  Europe  and  America 
between  1730  and  1740  were  very  different  from  those  which 
are  now  being  cultivated.  For  one  thing,  they  were  all  single 
varieties,  resembling  in  general  appearance  the  Ox-eye  Daisy. 
Each  flower  had  a  large  yellow  centre  composed  of  tubular 
florets,  with  from  two  to  four  rows  of  ray  florets  surrounding 
it.  In  the  seeds  sent  by  Collinson  to  Bartram  white  and 
purple  varieties  were  included.  A  red  variety  is  said  to  have 
been  obtained  by  Philip  Miller,  of  Chelsea,  England,  in  1731, 
and  a  blue  variety  was  also  known  about  that  time.  Some 
twenty  years  later  the  same  gardener  received  seeds  of  double 
varieties  in  red,  white,  and  blue  colors,  and  by  the  end  of  the 
eighteenth  century  flowers  with  blue  and  white  stripes  had 
appeared  and  the  aster  was  well  started  on  its  way  toward 
the  marvellous  development  which  has  since  taken  place. 

These  asters  are  commonly  called  by  two  general  names- 
China  Asters  because  they  originated  in  China,  and  German 
Asters  because  the  modern  development  of  the  plant  was 
largely  brought  about  by  German  florists.  Professor  Bailey 
thinks  the  first  remarkable  development  was  in  the  produc- 
tion of  the  quilled  type  of  flower,  in  which  the  central  florets 
were  produced  into  quills.  Varieties  of  this  type  were  popu- 
lar about  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  many  of 
them  are  still  grown,  under  the  name  of  German  Quilled 
Asters.  These  blossom  in  hemispherical  masses  and  occur  in 
a  great  variety  of  colors. 

The  most  satisfactory  classification  of  these  asters  is  that 
suggested  by  Professor  Bailey  in  the  "  Cyclopedia  of  Horti- 
culture." The  flowers  are  divided  into  two  great  groups, 


42         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

namely,  the  Flat-rayed  and  the  Quilled,  each  of  which  is  sub- 
divided into  two  lesser  groups.  The  Flat-rayed  Asters  in- 
clude a  lar^e  proportion  of  the  more  important  varieties.  In 
all,  or  nearly  all,  of  the  florets  are  flat  instead  of  tubu- 
lar. In  one  group,  these  flat  flor- 
ets are  curved  upward  and  in- 
ward, as  in  the  case  of  the  Jewel 
or  Ball-flowered  Asters;  in  the 
other  group  the  florets  are  curved 
downward  and  outward,  as  in  the 
beautiful  Comet  Asters.  In  the 
case  of  the  Quilled  Asters  one 
type  has  three  outer  rows  of  flor- 
ets flat  and  reflexed,  while  the 
rest  of  the  florets  are  tubular. 
These  are  the  German  Quilled 
Asters  already  mentioned.  In  the 
other  group  all  the  florets  are 
tubular,  as  in  the  variety  called 
the  Victoria  Needle  Aster. 

None    of    the    modern    asters 
surpass  the  Comet  type  in  charm 

ua  \ 

and  distinctive  beauty,  the  re- 
curved petals  of  the  large,  soft,  broadly  rounded  flowers  sug- 
gesting the  form  of  some  of  the  more  beautiful  sorts  of 
chrysanthemums.  There  is  a  great  variety  of  coloring  in 
these  Comet  flowers,  the  tones  varying  from  pure  white  to 
blue  and  violet  and  red,  and  even  pale  yellow  in  the  solid 
colors,  with  a  ^reat  many  intermediate  striped  sorts.  As  to 
size  of  plant  these  Comet  Asters  are  divided  into  two  types: 
the  Giant  Comets  reach  a  height  of  two  feet,  with  large 


CHINA  ASTERS 


43 


flowers  upon  long  stems,  while  the  Dwarf  Comets  are  but 
half  as  high,  with  the  flowers  on  shorter  stems.  A  rather 
new  form  of  the  China  Comet  is  the  single-flowered  one,  in 
which  the  ray  petals  are  long  and  slender.  New  varieties 
of  these  Comet  types  are 
continually  being  added 
to  the  florists'  lists. 

Aster  types  are  not  so 
clearly  defined  and  wide- 
ly recognized  by  standard 
names  as  are  the  leading 
dahlia  forms,  so  the 
names  and  descriptions 
of  asters  in  the  seed  cat- 
alogues may  puzzle  you. 
For  this  reason  your  note- 
book sketches  and  de- 
scriptions of  the  best 
illustrations  of  each 
standard  type  grown  in 
your  community,  accom- 
panied by  records  of  the  trade  names  of  the  seeds  sown, 
will  enable  you  to  order  just  the  sorts  you  prefer  another 
spring. 

While  studying  the  aster,  plan  to  preserve  seeds  of  the  best 
varieties  of  each  type.  The  best  seed  is  home  grown,  be- 
cause freshest,  and  taken  with  such  care  in  selection  as  is 
hardly  possible  commercially.  When  cutting  flowers  for 
the  house,  leave  the  earliest  and  best  blossoms  to  mature. 
When  the  seeds  are  ripe,  the  flower  heads  should  be  cut  and 
dried;  then  the  seed  should  be  separated,  cleaned,  and  placed 


Dwarf  Comet  ASUTS. 


From  'The  Flower  Beautiful." 

Comet  Asters  in  Bamboo  Holder. 


PLANTING   BULBS  OUT-DOORS  45 

in  labelled  envelopes.  Every  school  garden  should  follow 
plants  from  seed  to  seed  for  their  life  history.  Every  home 
gardener  will  find  great  satisfaction  in  this  work,  too,  for  it  is 
by  careful  selection  that  varieties  are  improved.  Moreover, 
the  best  double  flowers  usually  produce  seeds  sparingly,  so 
that  good  seed  is  expensive.  All  the  surplus  seed  of  fine 
quality  that  one  produces  will  be  highly  appreciated  if  dis- 
tributed to  one's  flower-loving  friends  as  gifts,  or  it  may 
serve  as  a  basis  of  exchange  for  other  seeds  or  for  bulbs  and 
plants  with  one's  neighbors.  A  school  garden  may  very  prop- 
erly be  utilized  to  supply  seeds  for  the  home  gardens  of  its  dis- 
trict. But  all  this  work  should  be  based  upon  a  study  of  the 
finest  types  of  flowers,  that  selection  of  seed  may  be  intelli- 
gent. 

PLANTING  BULBS  OUT-DOORS 

The  only  way  to  be  rewarded  by  a  beautiful  show  of  blos- 
soms in  early  spring  in  the  out-door  garden  is  to  plant  in 
autumn  the  spring  flowering  bulbs.  These  are  so  inexpen- 
sive and  so  beautiful  that  it  is  not  strange  that  they  are  be- 
coming more  and  more  popular  every  year.  And  the  fact 
that  when  once  established  most  sorts  continue  to  develop  a 
new  supply  of  bulbs  for  future  flowering  renders  them  all  the 
more  desirable. 

Fortunately,  these  spring  flowering  bulbs  can  be  planted 
to  advantage  in  a  great  variety  of  situations.  Arranged  in 
the  form  of  beds  they  commonly  make  the  most  striking  dis- 
play to  be  seen  in  spring  in  parks  and  gardens.  Scattered 
with  less  formality  along  the  edges  of  the  border  garden  or 
beneath  the  shrubbery,  or  dotted  here  and  there  on  the  lawn, 
they  often  make  an  even  more  pleasing  show  than  in  the 


46        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

formal  garden.  They  will  do  well  in  almost  any  situation 
provided  the  soil  is  fairly  rich  and  well  drained,  and  the  bulbs 
of  each  variety  are  planted  at  a  uniform  depth  rather  early  in 
the  season.  For  these  plants  are  able  to  blossom  so  soon  in 
spring  because  of  the  fact  that  they  have  gained  much  of  their 
root  growth  the  previous  autumn.  Consequently  it  is  de- 


>f  Campernelle  Jonquil. 


sirable  to  be  able  to  put  the  bulbs  in  the  ground  so  early  that 
there  will  be  opportunity  for  a  good  development  of  roots 
before  freezing  weather.  Some  of  the  bulbs,  notably  the 
crocuses  and  daffodils,  should  be  planted  in  September  if 
possible,  while  most  of  the  others  will  do  very  well  if  planted 
in  October. 

In  reply  to  the  question  as  to  what  to  plant,  one  should 
choose  at  first  those  sorts  of  spring  flowering  bulbs  in  which 
one  most  delights.  If  you  are  very  fond  of  crocuses  or  snow- 


PLANTING   BULBS   OUT-DOORS  47 

drops  or  daffodils  or  tulips,  plant  these  in  abundance  and  at 
the  same  time  plant  also  a  few  bulbs  of  some  of  the  flowers 
you  are  not  so  familiar  with,  and  perhaps  you  will  thus  be  able 
to  extend  your  range  of  enjoyment.  For  a  liking  for  flowers 
depends  very  often  upon  our  knowledge  of  or  our  experience 
with  them,  and  it  is  always  worth  while  to  increase  one's 
garden  experience.  The  earliest  of  the  spring  flowering 
bulbs  are  the  crocuses,  snowdrops,  and  scillas,  all  of  them 
low-growing  plants  which  are  desirable  to  put  along  the 
borders  of  hardy  perennial  gardens  or  the  more  formal  beds 
of  tulips  or  hyacinths.  The  crocuses  are  very  desirable  for 
planting  in  the  lawn,  especially  in  a  sunny  situation  near  a 
building  or  fence  where  they  will  come  into  blossom  long 
before  the  snow  disappears,  thus  greatly  extending  the  period 
of  the  out-door  flower  gardens.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to 
make  a  hole  with  a  pointed  stick  in  the  sod  about  three 
inches  deep,  and  to  push  the  crocus  bulb  right  side  up  down 
into  the  bottom  of  this  hole,  firming  the  soil  over  it  when  it 
is  thus  planted.  The  snowdrops  and  scillas  may  well  be 
planted  in  small  groups  to  a  depth  of  about  t^vo  inches. 

For  starting  an  annually  recurring  display  of  flowers  no 
bulbs  are  so  satisfactory  as  the  daffodils.  Of  these  the  single 
Trumpet  Daffodils  are  the  best,  although  the  Poet's  Narcissus 
is  also  well  worth  very  general  planting.  These  daffodils 
are  very  desirable  to  grow  beneath  shrubbery,  where  they  will 
become  naturalized  and  produce  beautiful  flowers.  They 
will  do  better,  however,  if  the  groups  of  these  bulbs  are  dug 
up  and  replanted  late  in  summer  or  early  in  autumn  about 
once  in  three  years.  In  this  way  crowding  is  prevented  and 
the  soil  may  be  again  thoroughly  fertilized. 

For  a  striking  display  in  early  spring  the  early  single 


Long  .strinmcU   Tulips. 


PLANTING  BULBS   OUT-DOORS 


49 


tulips  are  very  useful.  Named  varieties  should  be  selected 
and  planted  at  a  uniform  depth  of  about  three  inches,  so 
that  all  may  flower  at  the  same  time.  The  long-stemmed 
late  tulips  are  even  more  beautiful.  These  are  better  adapted 
to  the  border  garden,  where  they  may  be  left  permanently. 
When  placed  in  the  formal  flower  beds  the  bulbs  must  be 


Bulbs  of  Madonna  Lilies. 

renewed  yearly,  for  they  remain  in  blossom  so  long  that  there 
is  no  opportunity  for  them  to  ripen  off  before  it  is  time  to 
plant  bedding  plants  for  the  summer  display. 

The  beautiful  sweet-scented  hyacinths  are  more  tender 
than  most  bulbs.  Named  single  varieties  should  be  planted 
in  October  at  a  uniform  depth  of  four  inches,  and  in  spring 
as  the  foliage  has  ripened  off  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up 
and  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  cellar  until  the  time  for  planting 
again.  As  they  are  planted  in  formal  beds,  great  care  should 
be  taken  to  have  the  rows  uniform  and  to  plant  the  bulbs  at 
a  uniform  depth. 


5o        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

There  is  no  question  that  nearly  all  of  the  lilies  do  better 
when  planted  in  autumn  than  in  spring.  The  Madonna 
Lily  needs  to  make  a  leaf  growth  in  autumn,  so  that  its  bulbs 
should  be  set  out  in  August  if  possible,  but  most  of  the  lilies 
may  be  planted  in  October  very  well. 

Nearly  all  of  the  bulbs  are  benefited  by  a  winter  protection 
which  prevents  the  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  of  the 
ground  and  keeps  them  from  starting  to  blossom  so  early 
in  >i>ring.  This  covering,  however,  had  better  not  be  put 
on  until  the  surface  of  the  soil  has  frozen;  otherwise  there  is 
danger  that  mice  will  injure  the  bulbs.  It  is  also  advan- 
tageous in  that  the  frozen  surface  soil  will  check  the  de- 
velopment of  the  bud  toward  leaf  growth,  while  the  layer  of 
mulch  will  retard  deep  freezing  and  favor  the  growth  of  strong 
vigorous  roots  that  will  lead  to  splendid  flowers  the  follow- 
ing spring. 

THE  SEPTEMBER  CALENDAR 

In-doors 

START  during  latter  part  of  month  cuttings  of  geraniums  and  other 
plants  desired  for  window  gardens.  Take  cuttings  from  plants 
out-of-doors. 

START  bulbs  for  early  winter  blooming,  especially  Paper-white  Nar- 
cissus and  Roman  Hyacinths. 

Out-doors 

PLANT  lily  bulbs,  especially  thoss  of  the  Madonna  Lily,  as  early  as 

possible. 
PLANT  crocuses,  daffodils,  and  other  early  spring  flowering  bulbs  this 

month.     Tulips  and  hyacinths  may  wait  until  October. 
TRANSPLANT  into  three-inch  pots  seedlings  of  French  Marigolds  and 

Drummond  Phlox  started  in  August,  and  bury  pots  in  the  garden 

soil  until  there  is  danger  of  frost. 


PLANTING   BULBS   OUT-DOORS  51 

HARVEST  vegetable  crops  as  fast  as  they  mature.     Clean  the  ground 

after  harvesting. 
IF  YOU  HAVE  a  cold-frame  sow  cabbage  seed  in  drills  in  the  garden  to 

start  plants  to  winter  over  in  the  frame. 
PREPARE  a  store  of  soil  for  use  in  potting,  gathering  the  necessary 

garden  soil,  leaf  mould,  manure  from  compost  heap,  etc. 
GATHER  seeds  of  annuals  and  perennials  before  they  are  lest  from  ripe 

seed-pods;  clean  them  and  store  in  labelled  envelopes. 
HOLD  a  public  exhibition  of  the  products  of  school  and  home  gardens. 
SEND  cut  flowers  from  the  school  garden  and  arrange  them  attractively 

in  vases  as  a  gift  to  the  School  Board  at  its  first  meeting  of  the 

school  year. 
PRICK  OUT  the  seedlings  of  pansies,  English  Daisies,  primroses,  and 

other  half-hardy  plants  in  the  cold-frames. 
LIFT  long-established  clumps  of  hardy  lilies  which  have  multiplied; 

divide  and  reset  the  bulbs,  adding  manure  to  the  soil,  but  keeping 

from  contact  with  bulbs. 


OCTOBER 


White  Cosmos. 


"So  from  the  root 

Springs  lighter  thy  green  stalk,  from  thence  thy  leaves 
More  airy,  last  thy  bright  consummate  flower 
Spirits  odorous  breathes." 


Pink  Cosmos  in  Austrian  (I lass  Vase. 


II 

OCTOBER 

COSMOS:   A  BEAUTIFUL  ANNUAL 

The  cosmos  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  annuals  for  the 
border  garden,  both  on  account  of  the  grace  of  its  foliage 
and  the  beauty  of  its  blossoms.  It  may  be  grown  as  easily 
as  any  of  the  garden  vegetables,  and  may  be  used  to  great 
advantage  along  fences,  walls,  and  the  sides  of  buildings. 
By  choosing  the  tall  varieties  to  plant  next  to  the  wall  or 
fence,  and  the  dwarf  varieties  to  plant  in  front,  one  may  get 
most  beautiful  effects  during  the  latter  part  of  the  season, 
the  flowers  of  the  dwarf  forms  beginning  practically  at  the 
ground  and  extending  upward  for  many  feet  with  a  back- 
ground of  attractive  foliage  that  helps  in  the  display. 

The  seed  of  the  cosmos  may  be  started  in  a  hot-bed,  green- 
house, or  window  garden  early  in  the  season  and  trans- 
planted out  of  doors  when  danger  of  frost  is  past;  or  the  seeds 
may  be  planted  in  a  drill  out  of  doors  in  May  and  the  young 
seedlings  transplanted,  when  they  are  two  or  three  inches 
high,  to  the  place  where  they  are  to  grow.  These  seedlings 
are  vigorous  little  plants  with  a  compact  root  system,  so  that 
they  are  very  easy  to  transplant.  In  a  rich  soil  and  with 
plenty  of  moisture  they  grow  with  great  rapidity,  sending  up 
fine,  fernlike  foliage  which  gives  an  attractive  effect  long 
before  the  flowers  appear.  Even  the  buds  have  a  decidedly 
decorative  value,  being  rounded  in  general  outline,  though 
flattened  on  the  outer  end  and  more  or  less  enclosed  by  a 

55 


56        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

double  row  of  long,  pointed,  greenish,  leaf-like  growths 
called  bracts. 

When  the  flowers  appear  the  plant  becomes  very  con- 
spicuous and  attractive.  Three  colors  are  commonly  grown. 
In  one  the  flowers  are  a  beautiful  glistening  white,  in  another 
they  are  an  exquisite  pink,  and  in  the  third  they  are  a  deep 
red,  the  last-named  variety  being  the  least  attractive  of  the 
three. 

While  the  ordinary  varieties  do  not  come  into  bloom  until 
the  autumn  is  well  advanced,  strains  of  the  dwarfer  sorts 
flower  continuously  from  midsummer.  These  are  more  de- 
sirable for  children's  gardens,  although  their  flowers  are  not 
so  rich  and  large  as  the  typical  sorts.  They  may  be  grown 
in-doors.  The  late  varieties  are  well  adapted  to  the  school 
garden,  since  they  bloom  when  schools  are  in  session,  and 
when  the  flowers  of  many  plants  are  disappearing. 

The  structure  of  the  flower  of  the  cosmos  shows  at  once 
that  it  belongs  to  the  great  group  of  composite  plants. 
Around  the  base  of  the  blossom  there  is  a  double  row  of  long, 
pointed,  deep-green  bracts,  with  a  more  definite  lighter-col- 
ored series  above  them.  The  chief  attractiveness  of  the 
blossom  is  given  by  the  petal-like  ray  florets,  of  which  there 
are  usually  eight,  and  which  are  sent  out  in  a  plane  at  right 
angles  to  the  axis  of  the  flower.  These  petals  are  grooved 
in  a  most  interesting  fashion  and  are  scalloped  on  the  outer 
ends  in  a  way  that  adds  greatly  to  their  decorative  effect. 
In  the  petals  of  the  pink  variety,  the  color  of  which  is  really 
a  light  violet  red,  there  is  at  the  base  a  spot  of  rose  color 
which  forms  a  delightful  bit  of  what  the  artists  call  a  domi- 
nant harmony.  The  disk  florets  which  form  the  "eye"  of  the 
flower  have  a  general  yellow  color,  due  to  the  yellow  petals 


SWEET  HERBS  57 

united  into  tiny  tubes  and  the  yellow  pollen  which  is  pushed 
out  through  the  stamen  tubes,  the  latter  being  brownish 
black. 

The  cosmos  has  so  great  a  spread  of  branches  for  the  size 
of  the  stalk  that  the  plants  are  easily  blown  down  ,by  the 
wind,  and,  in  consequence,  when  growing  in  exposed  situa- 
tions, each  stalk  should  be  tied  to  a  stake  to  hold  it  in  posi- 
tion. This  is  not  so  necessary  when  they  are  growing  in  the 
shelter  of  a  wall  or  fence,  but  even  then  it  is  generally  desirable. 

For  use  in-doors,  where  they  are  extremely  effective  for 
ornament,  these  flowers  require  a  spreading  arrangement 
which  shall  simulate  their  manner  of  growth  outside.  Two 
or  three  sprays  projecting  from  a  slender  vase  and  showing 
stems,  leaves,  buds,  and  flowers  are  exceedingly  effective, 
especially  if  placed  against  a  plain  background,  gray  or  gray- 
green  in  tone.  A  larger  display  in  a  broader  flower  jar  may 
also  easily  be  made  one  of  the  most  beautiful  flower  arrange- 
ments imaginable. 

SWEET  HERBS 

In  the  early  history  of  America,  herbs  for  use  in  flavoring 
food  grew  in  every  thrifty  kitchen  garden.  Many  a  man  can 
remember  helping  his  mother  gather  the  ripe  caraway  seeds 
in  the  little  old-fashioned  garden.  How  good  they  tasted  in 
the  cookies!  Perhaps  he  also  helped  cut  the  fresh  shoots  of 
sage,  and  can  recall  the  bunches  of  dried  sage  that  hung  from 
garret  rafters  beside  those  of  wild  medicinal  herbs.  In  memory 
he  can  taste  again,  even  now,  the  sage  in  the  savory  stuffing 
for  the  Thanksgiving  turkey.  In  the  corners  of  the  farmyard 
clumps  of  catnip  and  tansy  probably  grew  in  abundance,  and 
in  earlier  years  many  other  herbs  had  been  numerous. 


58        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

Kven  in  Bible  limes  herbs  were  freely  used.  Mint,  anise, 
and  cumin  are  mentioned  in  the  pages  of  this  book.  Old- 
time  stories  tell  of  others,  such  as  dill  and  pennyroyal,  which 
children  nibbled  at  to  while  away  the  long  hours  of  the 
church  service.  Hut  to-day  such  herbs  are  little  known. 
Some  large  city  markets  sell  a  few  kinds  fresh,  and  occasion- 
ally a  limited  number  are  grown  in  home  gardens,  but  these 
are  mainly  on  estates  with  gardeners  and  skilled  cooks.  Most 
of  us  are  content  with  the  tropical  spices  so  cheaply  supplied 
by  commerce,  while  in  the  main  the  delicate  flavors  and  the 
delights  of  the  home  garden  of  herbs  are  past. 

The  school  garden  may  restore  past  joys  and  values  to 
home  garder.s,  as  well  as  serve  to  introduce  there  the  best 
products  of  modern  horticultural  art.  In  1906,  one  school 
garden  showed  twenty  sorts  of  herbs  at  the  fall  exhibition  of 
the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society.  Some  of  the  fine 
cooks  of  the  neighborhood  of  this  school  welcomed  the  op- 
portunity of  purchasing  fresh  herbs  in  great  variety,  if  not  in 
hi  ore  quantities.  Some  of  the  children  started  mint  and  sage 
and  annual  herbs  at  home.  One  boy  grew  sage  and  catnip  in 
quantity  at  his  summer  home  in  the  country,  and  realized  a 
snug  little  sum  retailing  both  fresh  and  dried  herbs  of  his  own 
production  to  his  city  neighbors.  A  bed  of  herbs  is  a  very 
desirable  and  practical  feature  of  a  school  vegetable  garden 
or  of  a  home  garden. 

Herbs  of  the  kitchen  garden  are  plants  native  to  Europe, 
and  mainly  to  Mediterranean  countries,  whose  aroma  at- 
tracted attention  and  led  to  their  use  for  flavoring  food  in 
fimes  when  the  spices  of  tropical  shores  in  the  Far  East  were 
unknown  or  very  costly.  Since  native  to  Europe  they  are 
either  hardy  annuals  or  perennials  whose  seed  may  be  sown 


SWEET   HERBS 


59 


?arly  in  the  spring.  Fully  half  the  list  are  members  of  the 
mint  family,  whose  odd  two-lipped  blossoms  are  familiar. 
They  are  grown  for  their  leaves  and  the  tender  tips  of  the 
branches,  which  are  used  for  flavoring  stews  and  like  foods. 
Sage,  spearmint,  and  catnip  are  relatively  common.  Balm, 
thyme,  pennyroyal,  rosemary,  pepper- 
mint, and  summer  or  winter  savory  are 
at  least  familiar  names.  Hoarhound, 
hyssop,  pot  and  sweet  marjoram,  clary 
and  sweet  basil  belong  to  this  same  mint 
family. 

Most  other  herbs  belong  to  the  parsley 
family  having  their  flowers  in  umbels. 
Caraway  is  a  type  of  those  whose  seeds 
are  used  in  flavoring  breads  and  other 
foods,  the  others  of  this  class  being  cori- 
ander, anise,  and  cumin.  Parsley  and 
chervil  are  species  grown  for  their  leaves, 
which  have  become  finely  cut  and  crisply 
curled  in  cultivation  so  that  they  are 
used  for  garnishing  dishes  as  well  as  for 
flavoring.  Dill  is  grown  both  for  its 
tender  foliage  and  for  its  seeds. 

Of  the  few  remaining  herbs  which  belong  to  other  families 
of  plants,  tansy,  rue,  and  lavender  are  hardy  perennials, 
while  borage  is  a  hardy  annual  which  reseeds  itself.  These 
hardly  deserve  cultivation  for  use  in  flavoring,  although  per- 
haps worth  while  for  their  flowers  and  to  complete  the  herb 
list  in  the  school  garden. 

Mint,  that  is,  spearmint,  is  a  good  herb  to  grow  first.  Its 
seeds  are  not  catalogued  for  sale,  but  it  multiplies  very 


Parsley  Seedling. 


6o 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


readily  and  rapidly  from  cuttings  and  root  divisions,  which 
every  seed  house  offers  cheaply  in  spring.  It  thrives  in  moist 
soil.  If  transplanted  to  a  cold-frame  in  the  fall,  it  may  be 
had  fresh  until  Christmas  and  again  in  early  spring.  Clumps 

may  be  grown  in  a  pot  or  a 
box  in  the  house,  or  even  by 
the  cellar  windows,  also,  if  pot- 
ted during  the  fall. 

Tarragon  and  chives  resemble 
mint  in  being  prized  for  flavor- 
ing and  in  being  hardy  peren- 
nials propagated  by  division  of 
clumps,  although  they  are  other- 
wise quite  unlike  plants.  Tar- 
ragon is  a  native  of  Siberia  and 
hence  is  very  hardy,  although, 
like  mint,  the  stalks  should  be 
cut  down  in  November  and  a 
cover  of  litter  or  mulch  provided. 
Clumps  of  chives,  a  diminutive 
member  of  the  onion  family,  will 

produce  their  hollow  leaves  if  placed  in  window-boxes  or  pots 
in  the  house  or  school-room,  and  the  leaves  may  be  cut  re- 
peatedly. 

Other  herbs  are  grown  from  seed.  Some  of  the  perennial 
sorts  are  not  very  hardy  and  are  usually  grown  as  annuals, 
although  specimen  clumps  may  be  protected  in  a  cold-frame. 
Now  while  fresh  seeds  of  annual  varieties  germinate  readily, 
the  fine  seeds  of  perennial  sorts  are  often  old  when  purchased, 
and  develop  slowly.  If  the  protection  of  a  cold-frame  is  not 
available,  it  is  well  to  support  a  board  an  inch  above  the  drill 


SjK-armint  Cuttings  R(x>ting  in  Sand. 


GETTING  THE   GARDEN   READY 


61 


in  which  the  seeds  are  sown.  It  gives  protection  from  heavy 
rains  which  would  wash  the  seeds  out,  and  it  keeps  the  soil 
moist  in  its  shade  during  hot,  dry  weather.  As  soon  as  the 
young  plants  of  pennyroyal  or  thyme  or  the  like  are  up,  the 
board  may  be  removed  to  allow  them  sun  and  free  growth. 

Several  of  the  herbs  may  be  grown 
as  house  plants.  Among  them  is  pars- 
ley, which  is  frequently  transplanted 
into  pots  for  the  house,  and  it  may  be 
grown  in  the  house  even  from  the  first. 
It  needs  abundant  moisture  and  a 
rather  cool  temperature.  Curled  cher- 
vil may  be  similarly  treated.  Both 
may  be  kept  in  cold-frames  in  autumn 
for  holiday  use.  Sweet  basil  is  a  ten- 
der annual,  being  native  to  India,  and 
serves  well  for  in-door  culture.  It 
should  be  started  in  the  house  in 
spring  for  out-door  beds,  and  plants 
that  have  been  cut  back  may  be  lifted  Sage  seedling, 

and  potted  in  September  for  growing 

in-doors.  In  southern  Europe  special  dwarf  bush  varieties 
are  commonly  grown  as  pot  plants  in  cottage  homes. 

GETTING  THE  GARDEN  READY 

When  one  wishes  to  start  a  garden  in  spring  it  is  nearly 
always  worth  while  to  begin  operations  the  previous  autumn. 
Very  often  the  ground  to  be  used  is  covered  with  sod,  in  which 
case  it  is  always  best  to  plough  or  spade  it  the  fall  before  in 
order  that  the  frost  may  act  upon  it  and  enable  the  gardener 
to  get  the  soil  into  good  workable  condition  when  he  wishes 


62 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


to  plant  the  spring  crops.  The  ground  also  is  very  often  full 
of  the  root-stocks  of  witch-grass  or  quack-grass,  and  it  is  very 
necessary  that  these  underground  stems  should  be  eradicated 
before  the  crops  are  planted.  The  best  time  to  do  this  is  in 
autumn  when  the  gardener  has  comparative  leisure.  And 


the  best  way  to  do  it  is  to  dig  out  the  root-stocks  with  a  tined 
fork,  which  will  not  cut  them  off  as  does  a  hoe  or  spade.  It 
is  very  desirable  also  that  stones  be  removed  from  the  soil 
before  crops  are  planted. 

Consequently,  if  you  desire  to  have  a  successful  garden 
next  season,  decide  on  its  location  this  fall,  get  the  ground  as 
well  prepared  as  possible,  and  leave  it  in  such  good  condition 


CALIFORNIA  POPPIES  63 

that  the  freezing  and  thawing  through  the  winter  will  help  in 
giving  the  soil  a  finely  pulverized  condition,  in  which  the  roots 
of  the  plants  grow  to  much  better  advantage  than  in  soil 
where  the  particles  are  coarse. 

There  is  much  else  that  may  be  profitably  done  for  the 
garden.  Well-rotted  manures  are  difficult  to  obtain  in  the 
spring,  so  gardeners  often  make  compost  heaps  in  the  au- 
tumn, laying  alternate  broad  layers  of  manure,  ashes  or  lime,' 
and  sods,  vines,  leaves,  or  the  like.  These  are  forked  over 
once  or  twice  to  prevent  too  rapid  or  excessive  decay,  and 
are  ready  to  be  worked  into  the  garden  the  following  season. 
You  will  also  be  able  to  make  plans  for  your  garden  during 
the  winter  months  with  more  success  than  if  you  leave  prep- 
aration to  the  few  weeks  in  spring,  when  there  are  so  many 
things  to  take  up  the  time  and  attention  of  the  gardener. 

With  plans  formed  it  will  be  possible  to  get  ready  for  use 
the  stakes,  trellises,  and  other  plant  supports  which  are  best 
prepared  in  the  winter.  Many  school  and  children's  gardens 
come  to  grief  from  lack  of  protection  against  intruders,  such 
as  pet  animals  and  younger  children  of  the  neighborhood. 
Before  the  spring  opens,  the  posts,  railings,  wire  netting,  or 
other  means  for  either  temporary  or  permanent  protection 
should  be  obtained,  ready  for  erection  as  soon  as  the  garden 
is  seeded.  Plans  and  preparation  betimes  mean  early  veg- 
etables and  a  long  season  of  bloom  in  the  flower  garden. 

CALIFORNIA  POPPIES 

No  other  flowers  in  the  garden  furnish  so  rich  a  display  of 
color  in  tones  of  yellow  and  orange  as  do  the  California 
Poppies  or  Eschscholtzias.  The  color  tones  range  from  a 
light  creamy  white  to  a  deep  orange  yellow  in  the  varieties 


64        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

commonly  available.  In  a  single  one  of  the  large  petals  one 
may  see  a  most  beautiful  gradation  of  tones  from  the  com- 
paratively light  tint  at  the  outer  margin  to  the  much  deeper 
tone  at  its  base.  Those  varieties  in  which  the  changes  from 
yellow  to  orange  are  thus  shown  are  particularly  fascinating. 
New  varieties  in  pink  and  stripes  of  pink  and  white  have 
lately  been  introduced  from  California,  where  these  flowers 
•grow  wild  in  abundance. 

These  California  Poppies  are  as  attractive  through  the 
simplicity  of  their  structure  as  they  are  through  the  beauty  of 
their  coloring.  The  finely  cut  foliage  is  of  a  most  delicate 
glaucous  green,  which  serves  as  a  delightful  background  for 
the  colors  of  the  petals.  The  flowers  are  held  erect  on  the 
long,  slender  fluted  stalks,  each  flower  when  fully  opened 
having  four  broad  petals  that  give  it  an  expanse  of  more  than 
two  inches.  Within  these  there  are  a  great  number  of  the 
stamens  which  have  the  pollen  exposed  on  very  long  pollen 
bags  or  anthers.  These  anthers  are  yellow  and  much  longer 
than  the  flattened  filaments  from  which  they  arise,  the  latter 
being  blotched  with  a  blackish  shade  toward  their  tips.  In 
the  centre  of  the  flower  is  the  seed-bearing  pistil. 

These  flowers  have  a  slight  odor  which  would  probably  be 
disagreeable  to  many  people.  This  is  not  noticeable,  how- 
ever, except  when  the  blossoms  are  very  close  at  hand,  and 
it  does  not  interfere  in  the  least  with  their  usefulness  in  the 
garden  or  in  the  home.  In  the  garden  they  may  be  planted 
along  the  borders  in  sufficient  numbers  to  give  a  distinctive 
color,  or  in  beds  by  themselves,  where  the  brilliant  flowers 
will  stand  relieved  against  the  fine  green  foliage. 

For  blossoms  of  such  delicate  texture  these  poppies  serve 
admirably  as  cut  flowers.  They  may  be  loosely  displayed  in 


CALIFORNIA  POPPIES  65 

vases  or  bowls,  and  are  particularly  attractive  when  shown 
with  some  of  the  leaves  in  clear  glass  rose  bowls,  so  that  the 
delicate  stems  are  seen  through  the  glass.     Very  delightful 
color  harmonies  may  be  made  by  placing  the  flowers  in  vases 
colored  in  plain  tones  of  yellow,  and  they  are,  of  course,  at- ' 
tractive  when  placed  in  jars  col- 
ored in  neutral  tones  of  gray  or 
green.      The   new   crimson   and 
striped    varieties    are    also   very 
pleasing. 

These  California  Poppies  are  of 
easiest  culture.  The  fine  seeds 
should  be  sown  where  the  plants 
are  to  blossom.  It  is  said  that 
the  best  results  are  obtained  when 
fresh  seed  is  sown  in  early  autumn, 
a  protection  of  some  loose  mulch 
being  given  through  the  winter. 
One  can  get,  however,  excellent 
results  by  planting  the  seed  in 
early  spring  in  the  open  ground. 
The  seedlings  should  be  gradually  thinned  until  the  plants 
are  about  ten  inches  apart.  These  flowers,  on  account  of 
their  beauty  and  simplicity  as  well  as  their  ease  of  culture, 
are  especially  desirable  for  school  gardens  and  children's 
home  gardens,  a  fact,  however,  that  should  not  prevent  the 
most  skilful  gardener  from  enjoying  them. 


California  Poppies  in  a  Slender  Vase. 


66 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


GROWING   HYACINTHS   IN-DOORS 

The  single  hyacinths  are  perhaps  the  most  generally  at- 
tractive of  the  spring  flowering  bulbs  which  may  be  forced 
into  blossom  in-doors  during  the  winter  months.  The 
flowers  are  borne  in  beautiful  masses  of  delightful  colors  and 
have  a  perfume  which  appeals  to  nearly 
every  one.  They  are  ideal  plants  to  grow 
in  water,  and  for  many  years  they  have 
been  very  popular  for  this  purpose. 

The  water  culture  of  the  hyacinth  is 
a  very  simple  process,  although  some 
experience  is  generally  necessary  be- 
fore one  secures  uniformly  successful 
results.  The  process  of  growing  con- 
sists simply  of  placing  a  good-sized 
bulb  in  some  vessel  holding  water  in 
such  a  position  that  the  bottom  of  the 
bulb  is  in  contact  with  the  water.  The 
vessel  and  the  bulb  are  put  away  in  a 
cool,  dark  closet  or  basement  room  for 
six  or  eight  weeks,  in  order  that  the 
roots  may  develop  in  the  water.  More 
water  is  to  be  added  as  thr.t  present 
evaporates.  At  the  end  of  this  period 
the  bulbs  are  to  be  brought  into  a 
moderately  cool,  well-lighted  room,  where  the  leaves  and 
flower-stalks  will  start  their  growth. 

There  have  long  been  upon  the  market  various  forms  of 
hyacinth  glasses  especially  made  for  forcing  these  bulbs. 
The  best  shape  of  these  glasses  is  shown  in  the  accompany- 


Hyacinth  Growing  in  Water  in 
a  Tall  Hyacinth  Glass. 


GROWING   HYACINTHS   IN-DOORS  67 

ing  picture,  and  the  safest  color  to  buy  is  green,  as  the  blues 
and  reds  are  not  likely  to  combine  so  well  with  variously 
colored  flowers  that  may  be  grown  in  them.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary, however,  to  confine  yourself  to  the  use  of  these  special 
hyacinth  glasses.  Attractive  flower  jars  of  almost  any  sort 


Three  Hyacinth  Bulbs  Grown  in  a  Four-inch  Paper  Fiower-pot. 

in  which  there  is  room  for  the  development  of  the  roots  will 
serve  as  well,  and  will  often  give  more  artistic  results  when 
the  plants  are  in  blossom. 

One  of  the  commonest  troubles  in  growing  hyacinths  in 
water  is  that  of  the  development  of  the  blossoms  without  the 
lengthening  of  the  flower-stalks.  To  avoid  this  it  is  desira- 
ble to  leave  the  bulbs  in  the  cool  basement  until  the  crown  of 
the  young  leaves  has  broken  open. 

The  single  hyacinths  may  also  be  grown  in-doors  in  earth, 
utilizing  any  good  loamy  soil  held  in  flower-pots  or  boxes  of 


68        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

almost  any  sort.  The  cheapest  and  most  satisfactory  re- 
ceptacles, however,  are  the  paper  flower-pots,  because  they 
occupy  so  little  room  and  may  be  set  inside  of  window-boxes 
or  flower  jars  to  such  great  advantage.  An  ordinary  bulb 
will  develop  perfectly  in  a  three-inch  paper  pot  or  three  bulbs 
in  a  four-inch  paper  pot.  In  growing  these  in  earth  it  is  only 
necessary  to  plant  the  bulbs  in  October  or  November.  Firm 
them  down  in  the  soil  so  that  the  bulb  will  not  be  pushed 
up  as  the  roots  develop,  watering  thoroughly,  and  then  plac- 
ing away  in  a  cool,  dark  basement  for  about  two  months. 
During  this  time  the  soil  must  be  kept  moist  by  occasional 
watering. 

As  the  leaf  crowns  break  apart,  the  bulbs  may  be  brought 
into  the  light  and  warmth  of  a  moderately  heated  room,  where 
most  of  them  will  develop  their  beautiful  blossoms.  One  of 
the  most  satisfactory  ways  to  utilize  them  is  to  set  the  pots  in 
a  narrow  window-box,  preferably  in  a  window  which  does 
not  receive  a  great  deal  of  direct  sunshine.  The  plants  may 
also  be  readily  transferred  from  the  paper  pots  into  artistic 
jardinieres  of  almost  any  sort. 


THE  OCTOBER  CALENDAR 

In-doors 

TRANSPLANT  to  window-boxes  the  geranium  and  other  cuttings  started 
last  month. 

START  bulbs  for  winter  flowering:  "Chinese  lily,"  crocus,  daffodil, 
freesia,  hyacinth,  jonquil,  narcissus. 

TRANSPLANT  to  window-boxes  before  frosts  kill  them  the  annuals  in 
pots  out  of  doors:  China  Aster,  Drummond  Phlox,  French  Mari- 
gold. Remove  the  pots,  planting  directly  in  the  soil. 


THE  OCTOBER  CALENDAR 

Out-doors 


69 


tube- 


LIFT   summer  flowering  bulbs — dahlia,  canna,  gladiolus,  and 

rose — and  store  them  in  the  cellar. 
PLANT  before  the  middle  of  the  month,  if  possible,  all  spring  flowering 

bulbs;  the  earlier  the  better. 

HARVEST  all  vegetable  crops  except  parsnip  and  salsify. 
CLEAN  up  the  garden,  burning  all  weeds  and  rubbish. 
TRANSPLANT  young  cabbage  plants  to  cold-frame,  also  all  half-hardy 

perennials. 
MAKE  thick  straw  mats  or  some  other  covering  for  the  cold-frames;  alsc 

an  outer  protective  covering  of  boards. 


NOVEMBER 


Chrysanthemum  Flower 

"In  the  second  month  the  peach  tree  blooms,  but  not  till 
the  ninth  the  chrysanthemum.  So  each  must  wait  till  his 
own  turn  comes." — JAPANESE  PROVERB. 


Chrysanthemums  in  a  Japanese  Cylinder  Jar. 


Ill 

NOVEMBER 
THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM 

The  chrysanthemum  is  the  crowning  glory  of  the  year. 
The  Japanese  rightly  regard  it  as  the  finest  flower  of  all  the 
wildings  that  man  has  developed  to  perfection.  Two  thou- 
sand years  ago  Confucius  wrote  of  the  flower,  and  during 
centuries  the  Chinese,  and  later  the  Japanese,  worked  to  im- 
prove by  selection  the  little,  yellow,  single,  daisy-like  flower 
from  which  the  royal  race  has  sprung.  Even  now  some  seeds 
from  any  of  the  finest  double  chrysanthemums  will  produce 
plants  with  flowers  similar  in  form  and  color  to  the  original 
wild  plant,  which  still  thrives  in  fields  of  eastern  Asia.  It  is 
the  chosen  flowrer  of  Japan,  appearing  in  the  national  coat- 
of-arms  and  constantly  in  decorations.  The  most  popular 
festival  of  the  year  for  the  Sunrise  Kingdom  is  Chrysanthe- 
mum Day. 

The  plant  was  introduced  into  Europe  over  a  century  ago, 
and  for  eighty  years  gardeners  there  have  been  multiplying 
varieties  from  selected  seedlings.  In  America  to-day  many 
gardeners  count  their  'mums,  as  they  affectionately  call  these 
flowers,  among  their  chief  delights.  Florists  grow  the  blos- 
soms by  the  thousand  under  glass,  usually  pruning  off  all 
branches  and  buds  so  that  each  plant  may  produce  one  con- 
summate flower  for  sale  in  November.  The  chrysanthemum 
exhibitions  of  the  large  horticultural  societies  are  the  closing 

73 


74        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

displays  of  the  season,  attracting  throngs,  and  showing  not 
only  wonderful  cut  flowers  but  also  magnificent  exhibition 
plants,  whose  many  blossoms  are  trained  into  brilliant  hem- 
ispherical masses  of  glorious  bloom. 

The  Queen  of  Autumn  is  produced  in  a  bewildering  variety 
of  forms  and  shades.  As  in  the  case  of  the  dahlia,  these  are 
classified  under  several  sections.  Incurved  chrysanthemums 
were  the  popular  form  years  ago,  like  the  Show  Dahlia,  which 
they  somewhat  resemble  in  their  formal  character.  Their 
blossoms  are  regular  in  structure,  the  smooth,  round- tipped 
petals  curving  inward  over  the  flower  centre  to  form  a  per- 
fect globe.  Reflexed  chrysanthemums  secure  the  same 
globular  form  in  just  the  reverse  way,  their  flatter  petals 
lying  smoothly  back  from  the  centre  and  completing  their 
sphere  by  meeting  about  the  stem. 

The  Japanese  class  of  chrysanthemums,  the  modern  fa- 
vorite, departs  from  all  regularity  of  petal  or  flower  form, 
and  appears  in  a  marvellous  variety  of  transformations.  It 
recalls  the  Cactus  Dahlia  in  its  decorative  qualities,  but  ad- 
mits a  far  wider  list  of  flower  shapes.  The  Japanese  In- 
curved section  is  an  intermediate  class,  with  incurved  petals, 
yet  loose  and  free  in  character.  Then  there  are  Pompon 
Chrysanthemums,  just  as  there  are  Pompon  Dahlias.  Many 
of  these  are  hardy,  and  some  have  the  merest  buttons  of 
flowers  arranged  in  attractive  sprays. 

Single  chrysanthemums  are  grown,  also,  even  as  single 
dahlias  are,  and  they  possess  an  airy  grace  and  simplicity 
that  give  them  high  value  for  interior  decoration.  The 
Anemone  section  is  an  odd  intermediate  type,  with  ranks  of 
ray  florets  surrounding  a  disk  cushioned  with  short  quilled 
florets.  In  all  these  classes  there  are  endless  variations  of 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM  75 

tint  and  shade,  both  pure  and  combined,  within  the  range 
of  yellows,  reds,  and  pure  white. 

The  chrysanthemum  should  be  grown  at  cottage  homes 
as  well  as  in  conservatories  and  greenhouses.  Here  and 
there  one  sees  windows  bright  with  the  bloom  of  home-grown 
chrysanthemums,  when  November  skies  are  cold  and  dull. 
It  is  quite  possible  for  children  to  meet  success  in  its  culture. 
Before  school  gardens  were  adopted  in  America,  this  plant 
was  grown  by  children  at  the  Eliot  School,  in  Natick,  Massa- 
chusetts. One  June,  every  child  from  six  to  sixteen  was  given 
an  eight-inch  pot,  a  little  chrysanthemum  in  a  three-inch  pot, 
and  a  sheet  of  directions  for  its  culture,  through  the  gener- 
osity of  gardeners  on  near  estates.  In  November  an  exhibi- 
tion was  held  in  the  school  hall,  which  not  only  paid  all  ex- 
penses for  pots,  prizes,  and  the  like,  but  yielded  a  generous 
balance  for  decorating  the  school-rooms.  While  various  ac- 
cidents had  destroyed  some  plants,  there  were  many  that 
deserved  exhibition,  and  expert  gardeners  from  Boston  were 
delighted  by  the  single  blooms  and  the  specimen  plants 
grown  by  some  children.  The  magnificent  plants  sent  in  by 
the  neighboring  estates  made  the  exhibition  worthy  the  pat- 
ronage it  received  and  a  real  education  in  horticultural  art. 
While  this  plan  worked  successfully  for  a  series  of  years  in 
this  country  village,  it  is  evident  that  it  is  well  adapted  to 
city  conditions,  where  so  many  children  can  have  no  other 
garden  than  a  potted  plant. 

Some  of  the  Pompon  Chrysanthemums  are  hardy  and 
should  be  grown  in  every  garden  of  perennials.  When  other 
flowers  are  cut  down  by  frost  these  bloom  cheerily  on  amid 
the  early  snows  of  November.  Since  the  chrysanthemum  is 
readily  grown  from  cuttings,  and  because  it  produces  many 


76        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

underground  offshoots  with  roots  in  autumn,  it  is  readily 
propagated.  One  school  secured  a  division  of  a  little  yellow 
Pompon  Chrysanthemum  in  spring.  The  following  year  it 
yielded  a  dozen  plants.  Late  that  fall  the  dozen  clumps  were 
carefully  divided  and  cut  into  some  three  hundred  rooted 
sections.  These  were  closely  set  in  rows  within  a  cold-frame, 
that  the  frost  might  not  turn  the  little  divisions  out  of  the 
soil.  The  second  spring  these  all  touched  their  glass  cover 
with  vigorous  foliage  by  the  end  of  April.  They  were  all 
slipped,  and  the  sturdy,  branching,  well-rooted  plants  were 
distributed  as  gifts,  prizes,  or  sales  to  all  the  other  city  schools 
and  to  many  home  gardens.  Moreover,  the  home  school  had 
the  three  hundred  plants  left  in  the  form  of  healthy  slips. 

Since  then  the  plants  have  multiplied  in  like  manner  yearly, 
while  dozens  of  other  varieties — red,  pink,  yellow,  bronze, 
and  white  in  all  gradations,  widely  different  in  size  and  in 
character  of  petals — have  been  added  to  the  collection. 
This  flower  should  round  out  the  season  in  every  school-yard 
garden,  outlasting  even  the  calendulas  and  other  hardy 
annuals. 

AUTUMN  PERENNIAL  FLOWERS 

The  best  perennial  flowering  plants  for  young  gardeners 
should  be  perfectly  hardy,  surviving  the  severest  winters  with- 
out special  care.  The  best  hardy  plants  for  school  gardens 
should  flower  while  schools  are  in  session,  and  should  be  easy 
to  propagate  that  they  may  be  distributed  freely  to  home 
gardens.  Most  of  the  tall-growing  perennials  which  flower 
in  the  late  summer  and  autumn  meet  all  these  conditions. 
The  best  include  several  hardy  sunflowers,  the  heleniums, 
boltonias,  and  asters. 


AUTUMN   PERENNIAL  FLOWERS  77 

These  perennials  range  in  height  from  three  to  twelve  feet, 
and  are  especially  adapted  to  form  clumps  at  the  rear  of  a 
broad  border  bed,  or  for  planting  among  shrubbery.  They 
form  banks  of  green  that  cover  the  ground  in  early  May, 
while  from  June  until  autumn  they  present  backgrounds  of 
graceful  foliage.  From  August  until  October  one  sort  fol- 
lows another  in  showing  masses  of  bright  bloom,  so  gener- 
ously resplendent  as  to  attract  attention  from  all. 

One  of  the  earliest  of  this  class  is  the  false  dragon's  head, 
or  physostegia,  whose  beautiful  spikes  of  rosy  lilac  flowers 
rise  to  a  height  of  four  feet.  It  blooms  in  August,  but  often 
lasts  until  school  opens.  While  the  square  stems  are  not 
very  stout,  its  early  and  attractive  flowers  make  it  desirable. 
The  color  is  unusual  among  tall  perennials.  The  flowers  are 
delicate  in  form  and  color  detail,  so  the  spikes  have  value  as 
cut  flowers.  It  multiplies  rapidly,  yet  not  so  widely  as  to  be 
troublesome  like  golden  glow,  one  of  this  group  of  perennials 
which  flowers  early. 

The  Orange  Sunflower  (Heliopsis  Pitcher iana)  is  neither 
very  graceful  nor  are  the  flowers  of  marked  beauty,  but  it  has 
the  merit  of  free  blooming  from  early  summer  until  late  fall. 
It  is  very  hardy  and  multiplies  readily  by  self-sown  seedlings 
which  flower  the  first  season.  A  clump  in  the  mid-border 
gives  an  early  touch  of  autumn  gold;  moreover,  the  long 
stems  to  the  flowers,  their  firm  resistance  to  wilting,  and  the 
persistent  freedom  of  bloom  give  a  certain  value  for  cut 
flowers.  It  is  a  flower  for  a  beginner  to  experiment  with,  and 
is  always  worthy  of  a  modest  place  in  a  large  garden  of 
perennials. 

The  first  hardy  helianthus  to  bloom  is  the  Prairie  Sun- 
flower (Helianthus  rigidus).  It  gives  a  gay  bank  of  color  in 


78        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

August.  It  thrives  alike  in  half  shade  and  in  full  sunshine, 
persists  on  dry,  barren  soils,  and  gayly  welcomes  pupils  back, 
even  though  the  school  garden  has  been  neglected  during  the 
summer.  While  so  vigorous  and  persistently  hardy  as  to  be 
weedy,  its  widespread  shoots  are  easily  recognized  in  early 
spring  when  appearing  near  other  plants.  They  can  be  dug 
up  readily  with  a  trowel,  and  because  roots  form  just  where 
the  underground  stem  upturns  to  the  light  these  divisions  can 
be  easily  distributed  to  many  home  gardens.  No  skill  is 
requisite  to  insure  their  survival  when  transplanted;  they 
will  endure  the  hardest  usage.  They  wilt  too  easily  to  be  of 
value  as  cut  flowers,  however;  their  place  is  in  the  border. 

In  September  the  Graceful  Sunflower  (Helianthus  orgyalis) 
crowns  its  spreading  clump  of  lofty  foliage  with  loose  panicles 
of  single  yellow  flowers  that  possess  the  finest  beauty  of  the 
entire  family.  The  tough  stems  rise  to  a  height  of  eight  or 
even  twelve  feet,  clothed  closely  with  long,  wavy,  drooping 
leaves,  and  both  stalks  and  leaves  bend  and  sway  in  the 
breezes  above  lawn  or  garden  plot  so  gracefully  as  to  please 
every  eye.  Although  the  clumps  do  not  divide  of  them- 
selves through  decay  of  the  main  stalk,  as  is  the  case  with 
most  other  members  of  this  group,  if  the  separate  shoots  that 
rise  in  the  spring  are  cut  several  inches  below  the  soil  surface, 
and  replanted,  they  form  roots  readily,  so  the  plant  is  easily 
multiplied.  Its  height  and  the  grace  of  all  its  parts  give  this 
sunflower  marked  merit. 

There  are  other  hardy  sunflowers  of  value,  second  only  to 
these  two.  The  Dahlia  Sunflower  (Helianthus  mulliftorus, 
ft.  pi.)  is  a  fully  double  form  of  flower  which  closely  resem- 
bles a  yellow  Show  Dahlia.  It  has  a  longer  season  of  bloom 
than  most  sunflowers,  and  is  used  to  supply  cut  flowers. 


AUTUMN   PERENNIAL  FLOWERS  79 

Each  plant  forms  a  dense  mass  of  new  shoots  for  division, 
but  as  it  is  not  surely  hardy,  one  clump  should  be  taken 
into  a  greenhouse  or  the  cellar  and  kept  alive  with  sufficient 
moisture  until  spring.  The  October  Sunflower  (Helianthus 
maximiliana)  forms  a  sturdy  .four-foot  clump  of  pleasing 
foliage,  and  has  the  merit  of  blooming  with  the  chrysanthe- 
mum. A  few  short-stemmed  flowers  of  rich  yellow  cluster 
at  every  end  of  its  waving  stalks,  and  meet  with  warm  wel- 
come at  a  time  when  other  plants  are  yielding  to  frosts  and 
dying  down. 

The  Tall  Sneezewort  (Helenium  autumnale  superbum)  gives 
a  great  mass  of  bloom  in  September.  The  separate  flowers, 
peculiar  in  the  drooping  attitude  of  their  bright  yellow  rays, 
are  borne  in  broad-spreading  panicles  at  the  top  of  each  stout 
stalk.  A  closely  related  variety  of  like  habit  (Helenium 
grandicephalum  slriatum)  has  petals  streaked  with  red.  In 
the  spring  a  ring  of  eight  or  a  dozen  budding  tufts  of  leaves 
rises  closely  about  every  old  decayed  stalk.  Thus  the  plant 
is  the  opposite  of  weedy  in  habit,  yet  is  most  readily  divided, 
since  nature  performs  this  task  skilfully  herself.  It  often 
scatters  self-sown  seedlings  about  the  garden  also,  which  are 
easily  disposed  of  with  the  hoe,  or  which  may  readily  be 
transplanted  to  the  home  gardens  of  the  children.  It  is 
characteristic  of  several  of  these  plants  that  after  appearing 
in  one  home  garden  of  a  community,  in  a  few  years  they 
may  be  noted  forming  strong  masses  of  color  in  the  yards  of 
many  neighboring  homes. 

When  school  opens  the  boltonia  or  false  chamomile  also 
spreads  its  broad  masses  of  daisy-like  flowers,  surmounting 
every  stalk.  Like  the  heleniums,  it  gives  crowded  clumps 
of  new  shoots  every  spring,  and  is  divided  and  multiplied 


8o 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


with  extreme  ease,  yet  is  not  weedy.  One  variety  (Boltonia 
asteroides)  bears  white  flowers,  a  pleasing  change  from  the 
yellow  hues  of  other  tall  perennials.  This  is  the  taller, 
stouter  variety,  although  it  needs  some  support  where  ex- 
posed to  strong  winds. 
The  general  effect  of  the 
growing  leafy  stalks  when 
newly  planted  is  pleas- 
ing  as  a  back-ground 
throughout  the  summer, 
and  the  variety  is  widely 
and  freely  used  by  land- 
scape gardeners  for  mass 
effects  in  the  border. 
The  pink  variety  (Bolto- 
nia latisquamd) ,  which 
has  a  lilac  tinge,  is  of 
weaker  growth,  and  is 
only  used  because  the 
color  of  the  flowers  makes 
it  desirable.  Neither  is 

New  England  Asters  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar.          valuable   as  affording  CUt 

flowers,  for  the  blossoms  are  difficult  to  preserve  in  form  and 
•freshness  when  removed  from  the  plants. 

The  asters  round  out  the  season.  Few  varieties  grow  to 
more  than  medium  height,  but  otherwise  they  are  rightly 
classed  in  this  group  of  perennials.  They  are  in  general  very 
hardy,  and  are  easily  multiplied  by  division.  One  of  the 
best  sorts  is  the  Snowrflake  Aster,  which  is  so  clothed  with 
small  white  flowers  in  late  September  as  to  suggest  a  bank 
of  feathery  snowflakes.  Planted  in  masses  or  singly  it  at- 


PLANTING  DAFFODILS  IN-DOORS  81 

tracts  attention  and  gives  delight.  Other  varieties,  the 
best  native  sorts  and  new  hybrids,  have  larger  flowers,  vary- 
ing from  white  to  lilac,  violet,  and  light  blue  in  color.  Most 
are  but  two  or  three  feet  in  height,  but  the  New  England 
Aster,  in  its  variously  colored  varieties,  attains  a  height  of 
four  feet,  and  well  deserves  place  in  the  back  of  the  border. 
It  would  be  interesting  to  transplant  clumps  of  the  various 
asters  native  to  any  school  district  or  its  vicinity  to  the  school 
garden,  and  there  study  the  effect  upon  them  of  a  rich  soil 
and  regular  culture.  The  first  school  garden  in  America, 
that  at  the  George  Putnam  School  in  Boston,  was  very  suc- 
cessful in  this  work  with  wild  plants. 

Most  of  the  tall  perennials  may  be  grown  from  seed  with- 
out difficulty,  with  the  exception  of  special  varieties  of  asters. 
The  seed  should  be  started  in  a  cold-frame,  or  be  protected 
by  a  board  placed  on  pegs  above  the  furrow  until  germina- 
tion has  taken  place.  If  started  early,  several  sorts  will  give 
bloom  the  first  season.  Since  these  plants  multiply  so 
rapidly  by  division,  however,  and  thrive  best  when  the 
clumps  are  divided  every  year  or  two,  they  can  readily  be 
obtained  for  a  school  or  home  garden  from  neighbors  \vho 
have  established  them  in  their  own  gardens.  Thereby  the 
school  receives  plants  from  homes  already  interested  in  gar- 
dening, then  distributes  their  product  to  other  homes  of  its 
district. 

PLANTING  DAFFODILS  IN-DOORS 

The  spring  flowering  bulbs  are  so  easy  of  cultivation,  so 
interesting  to  handle,  require  so  little  window  room,  and 
yield  such  varied  types  of  beauty  that  one  might  depend 
entirely  upon  them  for  the  winter  display  of  flowers.  In  the 


82 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


great  group  which  is  generally  included  in  the  genus  nar- 
cissus there  is  available  a  wonderful  array  of  flowers  which 
will  easily  grow  in-doors:  the  daffodils,  the  jonquils,  the 
star-flower  or  chalice-flower,  and  the  Paper-white  Narcissus 
are  the  more  important  types  of  these.  The  bulbs  of  good 
varieties  of  all  these  flowers  may  be  obtained  of  the  florists 


Twelve  Bulbs  of  Chinese  Lily  Narcissus. 

early  in  the  autumn  at  comparatively  little  expense.  As  a 
rule,  they  may  be  bought  much  more  cheaply  by  the  hundred 
than  by  the  dozen,  so  it  may  be  worth  while  to  form  a  club  of 
your  friends  to  take  advantage  of  this  fact. 

When  the  bulbs  arrive  they  should  either  be  planted  at 
once  or  stored  in  a  cool,  damp  cellar  where  they  will  not  dry 
out.  They  may  be  planted  in  almost  any  kind  of  receptacle, 
although  for  school  garden  purposes  nothing  is  so  satisfactory 
as  the  paper  flower-pots.  In  the  case  of  most  bulbs,  one  may 


PLANTING  DAFFODILS  IN-DOORS 


be  planted  in  a  three-inch  pot  or 
three  or  more  in  a  four-inch  pot. 
In  planting  it  is  only  necessary  to 
use  good  garden  soil,  placing  a  bit 
of  broken  pottery  over  the  hole  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pot.  The  bulb 
should  be  just  buried  and  the 
earth  around  it  packed  firmly  in 
place  that  it  may  not  be  pressed 
up  as  the  roots  develop.  Water 
thoroughly  and  set  away  in  a  cool 
basement  where  the  temperature 
will  be  low  and  equable,  though 
not  freezing.  Sometimes  it  is 
desirable  to  throw  over  the  pots 


Water  Culture  of  Paper-white  Narcissus. 


Water  Culture  of  Chintse  Lilks. 

two  or  three  thicknesses  of  bur- 
lap or  old  carpet  to  prevent  the 
evaporation  of  moisture.  Water 
occasionally  as  may  be  necessary 
to  keep  the  soil  moist,  but  other- 
wise leave  undisturbed  for  six  or 
eight  weeks. 

The  purpose  of  putting  these 
bulbs  away  in  a  dark,  cool  place 
is  to  enable  them  to  develop  such 
a  growth  of  roots  as  would  occur 
were  the  bulbs  beneath  the  soil 
out-doors.  Under  the  latter  con- 
ditions a  large  root  growth 
would  have  taken  place  in  au- 
tumn, so  that  the  plant  would  be 


84        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

able  to  send  up  its  leaves  and  blossoms  in  spring  very  soon 
after  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground.  In  the  in-door  garden 
we  attempt  to  imitate  these  conditions  just  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible; consequently  the  bulbs  are  to  be  left  in  the  cellar  until 
such  a  root  growth  takes  place  that  it  is  evident  the  plant 
can  be  forced  into  blossom  successfully.  Then  is  the  time 
to  bring  the  bulbs  into  the  light  and  heat  of  the  living 
rooms. 

Many  of  these  bulbs  may  also  be  brought  into  blossom 
successfully  in  water.  Wide  shallow  jars  may  be  utilized, 
partially  filled  with  coarse  gravel  or  broken  stone  and  with 
water  added  to  cover  such  material.  The  bulbs  of  the  Paper- 
white  Narcissus  and  the  so-called  Chinese  Sacred  Lily  may 
be  set  in  such  receptacles  and  placed  in  a  cool,  dark  room 
until  the  roots  are  well  started. 

ANNUAL  FLOWERS  FOR  WINDOW-BOXES 

A  great  deal  of  satisfaction  may  be  gained  by  the  lover  of 
flowers  from  growing  some  of  the  annual  flowering  plants  in 
in-door  window-boxes.  Since  one  can  grow  them  from  seed 
the  cost  of  starting  the  plants  is  very  little,  and  one  also  has 
the  pleasure  of  watching  them  through  all  the  stages  of  their 
growth. 

It  is  true,  however,  that  comparatively  few  annual  flowers 
can  be  brought  into  blossom  successfully  under  the  conditions 
of  the  in-door  garden.  Of  these  few  the  Japanese  or  Im- 
perial Morning-glory  is  among  the  most  interesting  and 
beautiful,  as  well  as  one  of  the  easiest  to  grow.  As  is  well 
known,  these  are  the  most  attractive  of  all  the  morning- 
glories,  having  been  introduced  from  Japan  a  few  years  ago 
and  having  become  very  popular  on  account  of  their  ease  of 


ANNUAL  FLOWERS  FOR  WINDOW-BOXES  85 

cultivation  and  their  beautiful  blossoms.  The  latter  vary 
greatly  in  form  and  color  and  are  among  the  most  gorgeous  of 
garden  flowers. 

The  commonest  reason  for  failure  with  morning-glories  is 
due  to  the  fact  that  the  outer  covering  of  the  seed  is  very 
hard.  To  insure  germination  a  corner  of  the  seed  should  be 
notched  with  a  file,  that  the  moisture  of  the  soil  may  have 
access  to  the  inside.  It  is  well  worth  while  thus  to  notch 
the  seed  and  then  to  place  them  between  layers  of  wet  blot- 
ting-paper. As  fast  as  the  seeds  become  swollen,  take  them 
out  and  plant  them. 

Another  flower  which  is  extremely  useful  for  in-door  win- 
dow-boxes is  the  Dwarf  or  French  Marigold.  These  may 
very  easily  be  grown  from  seed  sown  in-doors  and  may  be 
planted  quite  thickly  in  window-boxes,  where  they  will  thrive 
with  very  little  attention  and  will  soon  begin  to  yield  an 
abundant  show  of  attractive  blossoms. 

In  a  fairly  light  room  probably  no  annual  will  yield  more 
gratifying  results  in  these  boxes  than  sweet  peas.  For 
planting  in  such  a  situation  one  should  get  the  earliest  vari- 
eties, such  as  are  sold  by  the  seedsmen  for  very  early  blossom- 
ing or  for  planting  in  greenhouses.  One  of  the  best  of  these 
is  the  Earliest  of  All,  which  is  a  selection  of  the  Extra  Early 
Blanche  Ferry.  These  will  come  into  blossom  in  about  nine 
weeks,  and  if  the  flowers  are  kept  picked  will  yield  an  abun- 
dance of  blossoms  for  a  long  period.  One  can  now  get  from 
the  best  seed-houses  varieties  of  sweet  peas  especially 
adapted  for  growing  in-doors. 

About  the  only  difficulty  to  contend  with  in  growing 
annual  plants  in  winter  window-gardens  is  that  of  the  pres- 
ence of  red  spiders  and  aphides,  or  plant  lice — often  called 


86        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

green  flies,  which  sometimes  appear  in  destructive  numbers. 
A  careful  watch  should  be  kept  for  these  pests,  and  as  soon 
as  any  are  seen  they  should  be  thoroughly  sprayed  with  some 
kind  of  tobacco  soap. 


THE  NOVEMBER  CALENDAR 

In-doors 

START  more  bulbs  for  winter  flowering. 

START  lily-of-the-valley  pips  for  Christmas  flowering. 

Sow  seeds  of  French  Marigolds  and  sweet  peas  for  late  winter  and 
early  spring  flowering. 

BRING  to  the  light  of  the  school  or  living  room  some  of  the  bulbs  of 
Paper-white  Narcissus  and  Roman  Hyacinths  started  in  Septem- 
ber. 

Out-doors 

CLEAN  up  yards  at  home  and  at  school. 

COVER  spinach  sown  for  spring  use  with  a  light  mulch. 

SPADE  up  the  garden  and  leave  surface  rough  to  let  the  soil  freeze  and 

thaw. 
COVER  border  gardens  with  coarse  litter  or  leaves  held  in  place  by 

brush  or  evergreens. 
PROTECT  rose  bushes  and  other  similar  plants  by  wrapping  with  straw. 


DECEMBER 


Single  Geranium 

"Earth's  crammed  with  heaven, 
And  every  common  bush  afire  with  God; 
But  only  he  who  sees  takes  off  his  shoes." 


Single  Geranium  in  a  Japanese  Jardiniere. 


IV 

DECEMBER 
FLOWERING  PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENS 

For  the  beginner  at  in-door  gardening  no  plant  is  safer  to 
experiment  with  than  the  geranium,  the  most  popular  of 
house  plants.  Small  geraniums  recently  started  from  cut- 
tings may  be  set  directly  into  the  soil  of  the  window-box  at 
a  distance  of  about  ten  inches  from  one  another.  Under 
favorable  conditions  of  heat  and  light  they  will  grow  rapidly, 
and  in  order  that  their  growth  may  be  symmetrical  the  win- 
dow-box should  be  turned  end  for  end  about  once  a  week. 
The  single  or  semi-double  varieties  are  really  more  attractive 
than  the  double  ones,  and  it  is  generally  better  to  include 
in  one  box  only  one  color,  although  if  there  is  a  combination 
of  white  flowering  geraniums  with  those  of  another  color  the 
result  is  generally  satisfactory.  The  geraniums  will  thrive 
in  a  window  of  almost  any  exposure,  although  in  windows 
looking  south  or  east  they  are  more  likely  to  blossom  freely 
on  account  of  the  abundant  sunshine. 

One  of  the  most  charming  and  effective  groups  of  plants 
for  in-door  use  during  the  winter  is  that  of  the  primulas  or 
primroses.  The  forms  most  generally  grown  by  the  florists 
are  varieties  of  the  Chinese  Primrose.  The  plants  grow 
from  seeds  sown  in  early  spring,  the  seedling  being  changed 
from  smaller  to  larger  pots  through  the  summer,  so  that  by 
autumn  they  are  in  live  or  six  inch  pots.  They  come  into 
blossom  in  early  winter  and  in  many  cities  fprm  a  large  part 

89 


90        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

of  the  Christmas  trade  of  the  florists.  They  are  among  the 
most  satisfactory  plants  for  the  winter  window  gardens,  es- 
pecially in  northern  and  eastern  exposures  where  the  sun- 
light is  not  too  intense.  They  may  be  transplanted  directly 

into  the  soil  or  they  may  be  left  in 
the  pots  and  the  latter  set  in  the 
soil.  In  either  case  each  plant 
should  have  its  crown  above  the 
surface  of  the  soil  to  prevent 
rotting  which  happens  when  water 
settles  around  the  crown.  With 
good  care  the  plants  should  blos- 
som through  the  spring,  after 
which  they  may  as  well  be  thrown 
away,  as  old  plants  generally  do 
not  flower  as  well  when  used  over 
again  as  do  the  new  ones. 

Some  of  these  Chinese  Prim- 
roses are  single,  others  double; 
some  are  white,  others  red,  and 
others  pink.  In  general,  more 
attractive  results  are  obtained  by 
not  mixing  different  varieties 

The  Baby  Primrose.  .  ,      ,  .  , 

side  by  side. 

The  Baby  Primrose  is  a  charming  variety  which  of  late  has 
become  very  popular  as  a  house  plant.  Its  pink  flowers  are 
smaller  than  those  of  the  other  primroses,  but  are  much  more 
abundant.  They  bloom  in  clusters  toward  the  ends  of  the  long 
flower-stalks  which  arise  in  numbers  from  the  crowns  of  the 
plants.  The  leaves  are  very  attractive,  being  prettily  rounded, 
with  wavy  margins  and  downy  whitish  hairs  over  the  surface. 


FLOWERING  PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW-BOXES         91 

Another  primrose  which  is  especially  satisfactory  as  a 
house  plant  is  the  variety  called  obconica — it  seems  to  have 
no  other  common  name.  It  has  clusters  of  good-sized  flowers 
on  the  ends  of  long  stems  and  requires  less  sunlight  than 
many  blossoming  house  plants. 

The  cyclamens  form  another  group  of  flowers  which  are 
very  attractive  during  the  winter  on  account  of  their  ex- 


Cyclamcn  Blossoms. 


traordinarily  beautiful  blossoms.  But  these  plants  are  much 
more  difficult  to  keep  in  a  thriving  condition  in  the  home  or 
school-room,  because  they  cannot  endure  a  warm  tempera- 
ture. It  would  be  worth  while  to  experiment  with  one  or  two 
plants  in  the  coolest  room  available. 

GROWING  LILY-OF-THE-V ALLEY  IN-DOORS 

One  of  the  most  interesting  plants  that  can  be  grown  in- 
doors is  the  beautiful  lily-of-the-valley,  which  is  so  attrac- 
tive out-doors  in  early  summer.  Every  one  knows  that  these 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


flowers  are  forced  into  bloom  in  greenhouses  during  the  win- 
ter months,  but  not  every  one  is  aware  that  it  is  easy  and 
practicable  to  get  very  satisfactory  results  by  forcing  them  in 
the  school-room  or  in  the  home.  If  there  is  available  a  warm 
closet  near  a  stove,  furnace  or  heated  chimney  in  which  a 

uniform  temperature  of  about  75° 
Fahrenheit  can  be  maintained  for 
three  or  four  weeks  one  can  easily 
bring  these  plants  into  blossom. 

The  pips  or  roots  of  the  lily- 
of-the- valley  are  kept  by  the  great 
plant-supply  houses  in  cold  stor- 
age so  that  they  may  be  purchased 
at  any  season  of  the  year.  They 
cost  at  wholesale  about  one  dollar 
and  a  half  per  hundred.  Many  of 
these  are  retarded  plants,  that  is, 
crowns  in  which  the  normal  pe- 
riod of  blossoming  has  long  since 
passed,  so  that  it  is  possible  to 
force  them  into  blossom  in  a  very 
short  time.  As  soon  as  the  pips 
arrive,  trim  off  about  one-third  of  the  length  of  the  roots 
with  sharp  scissors,  then  plant  them  in  garden  soil  or  sand, 
or  even  sphagnum  moss,  in  a  box  of  some  sort,  water  them 
thoroughly,  and  place  away  in  the  warm  closet  where  a  tem- 
perature of  75°  or  80°  will  be  maintained.  In  city  school- 
houses  such  a  closet  can  generally  be  found  somewhere  in 
the  basement  near  the  boilers.  If  the  room  is  dark  it  will  be 
better  to  bring  the  plants  up  during  the  daytime  after  they 
have  been  in  the  closet  about  two  weeks,  returning  them  each 


of-the-Valley  in  Japanese 
F!qwer-jar. 


THE   SELECTION   OF  SEED  93 

night.  Even  better  results  may  be  expected  if  the  roots  can 
be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  about  75°  and  the  tops  be 
exposed  to  a  much  cooler  atmosphere. 

In  about  three  weeks  the  leaves  and  blossoms  will  be 
shooting  up,  and  the  plants  may  be  kept  in  a  well-lighted 
room  to  complete  their  development.  They  may  readily  be 
transplanted  into  flower-jars  or  window-boxes  and  will  prove 
of  great  interest  to  all  who  grow  them.  Every  one  should  re- 
member that  the  leaves,  stems,  and  flowers  of  the  lily-of-the- 
valley  contain  an  active  poison,  so  that  they  should  never  be 
put  into  the  mouth. 

THE  SELECTION  OF  SEED 

The  importance  of  the  careful  selection  of  the  seed  from 
which  crops  are  grown  is  becoming  better  understood  every 
year.  This  is  true  of  all  plants  which  man  cultivates  by 
sowing  seeds.  Careful  selection  of  seed  has  recently  almost 
revolutionized  the  agriculture  of  the  Central  and  Western 
States,  where  the  corn  crops  have  been  enormously  increased 
in  this  way,  while  special  varieties  have  been  produced  whose 
kernels  are  rich  in  the  oil,  the  starch,  or  the  other  constituents 
needed  for  special  uses.  It  has  caused  great  improvements  in 
vegetables,  both  those  grown  out-doors  and  under  glass,  and 
it  is  responsible  for  a  large  part  of  the  improvement  in  the 
habits  of  the  ornamental  flowering  plants,  and  in  the  size, 
form,  and  color  of  their  blossoms. 

The  improvement  of  plants  is  largely  a  matter  of  intelligent 
selection  on  the  part  of  the  gardener.  When  the  plant  is 
given  a  large  food  supply  it  is  likely  to  exhibit  variations,  the 
selection  of  which  leads  to  new  varieties.  When  a  plant  is 
brought  into  new  conditions  of  life,  as  when  seed  from  one 


94        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

locality  is  introduced  into  another,  variations  are  also  likely 
to  appear.  There  is  an  inherent  tendency  in  all  plants  to 
vary,  and  the  new  varieties  which  are  listed  every  year  in  the 
plant  catalogues  are  chiefly  the  result  of  the  careful  selection, 
by  hosts  of  gardeners  throughout  the  world,  of  those  varia- 
tions which  seem  likely  to  prove  most  useful  or  attractive  to 
mankind. 

While  plants  tend  to  vary,  by  repeatedly  selecting  seed 
from  those  that  attain  a  desired  standard,  they  may  also  be 
trained  to  come  true  to  a  type  from  the  seed.  The  varieties 
thus  established  are  simply  mile-stones  of  progress.  The 
best  variety  of  a  given  plant  this  year  may  be  succeeded  by 
a  better  one  next  year,  and  that  in  turn  by  one  still  better  the 
following  year.  So  it  is  that  the  novelties  of  the  seed  cata- 
logues ought  at  least  to  represent  the  latest  progress  in  hor- 
ticultural art. 

An  excellent  example  of  what  may  be  accomplished  in  the 
improvement  of  flowers  in  a  comparatively  few  years  is  found 
in  the  history  of  the  sweet  pea.  Thirty  or  forty  years  ago 
the  modern,  improved  varieties  of  this  flower  did  not  exist. 
In  America  the  principal  sort  was  the  Painted  Lady,  growing 
here  and  there  in  old-fashioned  gardens,  and  perhaps  four  or 
five  other  varieties  not  well  established.  In  England  a  sim- 
ilar condition  existed.  Then  there  came  to  the  help  of  the 
plant  a  patient  gardener,  named  Henry  Eckford,  who  lived 
in  Shropshire,  England.  He  began  the  cultivation  of  the 
existing  varieties  with  a  view  to  their  improvement,  and  to 
his  long  patience  we  are  chiefly  indebted  for  the  increased 
attractiveness  of  these  blossoms. 

"When  I  first  took  up  the  sweet  pea,"  he  wrote,  u there 
were  six  or  eight  distinct  varieties  in  cultivation,  and  experts 


THE   SELECTION   OF   SEED  95 

in  the  art,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  had  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  could  not  be  further  improved,  and  in  the  first  two 
or  three  generations  of  the  work  it  seemed  a  fair  conclusion. 
But  I  had  been  for  many  years  working  on  the  improvement 
of  various  flowers,  which  work  had  proved  so  eminently 
successful  that  a  first  rebuff  did  not  deter  me  from  further 
attempts. " 

For  more  than  twenty  years  Mr.  Eckford  has  been  de- 
voting attention  to  the  sweet  pea,  and  a  large  part  of  the 
best  varieties  to-day  originated  with  him.  Thanks  to  our 
modern  methods  of  seed  distribution,  as  fast  as  a  new  type 
of  flower  has  become  fairly  well  fixed  it  has  been  available 
for  gardeners  everywhere,  and  herein  is  the  advantage  de- 
rived by  the  gardener  who  studies  carefully  the  announce- 
ments of  novelties  in  the  seed  catalogues.  It  is  more  or  less 
fashionable  to  deride  these  novelties  and  to  say  they  are  not 
worth  the  high  prices  charged  for  them.  Doubtless  this  is 
frequently  true,  but  it  will  not  prevent  an  intelligent  gar- 
dener from  taking  advantage  of  such  of  them  as  seem  most 
desirable  for  his  conditions.  The  improvements  in  gar- 
dening come  through  these  very  novelties,  and  we  ought  to 
be  thankful  to  pay  a  few  cents  more  for  seed  grown  for  us 
by  Henry  Eckford  or  Luther  Burbank — seed  which  repre- 
sents not  only  the  labor  of  growing  but  also  the  special  care 
and  intelligence  exercised  during  many  years  in  order  to 
create  a  new  type  of  flower. 

Perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  varying  forms  of 
poppies  are  the  Shirley  Poppies.  The  plants  are  not  very 
large,  and  have  slender,  graceful  stems  and  leaves.  The 
flower  buds  are  enclosed  in  two  large  sepals  that  fall  off  as 
the  petals  unfold,  revealing  the  light-colored  stamens  sur- 


96        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

rounding  the  broad  pistil  in  the  middle.  It  is  an  interesting 
fact  that  all  of  the  Shirley  Poppies  have  descended  from  a 
single  plant  found  by  a  clergyman,  Rev.  W.  Wilks,  in  his 
garden  in  Shirley,  England.  The  story  of  their  origin  has 
been  told  by  Mr.  Wilks  in  these  words: 

"In  1880,  I  noticed  in  a  west  corner  of  my  garden,  abut- 
ting on  the  fields,  a  plant  of  the  common  wild  field  poppy, 
one  solitary  flower  of  which  had  a  very  narrow  edge  of  white. 
This  one  flower  I  marked  and  saved  the  seed  of  it  alone. 
Next  year,  out  of  two  hundred  plants,  I  had  four  or  five  on 
which  all  the  flowers  were  edged.  The  best  of  these  were 
marked  and  the  seed  saved,  and  so  on  for  several  years;  the 
flowers  all  the  while  getting  a  larger  infusion  of  white  to 
tone  down  the  red  until  they  arrived  at  pale  pink,  and  one 
plant  absolutely  white.  I  then  set  myself  to  change  the 
black  centre  portions  of  the  flowers  from  black  to  yellow  or 
white,  and  have  succeeded  at  last  in  fixing  a  strain  with 
petals  varying  in  tint  from  brightest  scarlet  to  pure  white, 
with  all  shades  of  pink  between  and  all  varieties  of  flakes  and 
edged  flowers  also,  but  all  having  yellow  or  white  stamens, 
anthers  and  pollen  and  a  white  base." 

It  is  also  true  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  new  varieties 
of  plants  are  obtained  by  crossing  or  hybridizing,  that  is,  by 
transferring  the  pollen  from  the  stamen  of  one  kind  of  flower 
to  the  stigma  of  another  kind.  In  these  cases,  however,  this 
process  of  hybridizing  is  designed  to  induce  variation  toward 
some  desired  type  and  is  simply  preliminary  to  a  great  deal 
of  selection  requisite  to  attain  and  then  establish  the  new 
type.  Only  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  plants  that  are 
produced  by  such  hybridizing  prove  worthy  of  culti- 
vation. And  the  man  who  practices  the  art  must  throw 


GROWING  NAMED  VARIETIES  97 

out  all  seedlings  until  he  finds  one  especially  promising  to 
be  saved. 

It  is  well  worth  while  for  every  young  gardener  to  do  at 
least  a  little  of  this  selection  of  seed,  for  it  will  add  greatly  to 
the  interest  of  his  garden  work,  and  will  enable  him  to  grow 
better  crops  of  flowers  or  vegetables.  All  that  is  necessary  is 
to  keep  watch  for  the  finest  and  largest  of  the  earliest  blos- 
soms or  fruits.  Then  mark  them  in  some  way,  as  by  tying 
a  string  around  the  stem,  and  save  the  seed  to  sow  another 
season. 

GROWING  NAMED  VARIETIES 

There  are  many  reasons  why  it  is  worth  while  to  grow 
named  varieties  of  the  flowering  plants.  In  the  first  place, 
our  enjoyment  of  any  subject  depends  very  largely  upon  the 
knowledge  we  have  of  it.  The  person  to  whom  "a  primrose 
by  the  river's  brim"  is  but  a  yellow  primrose  like  thousands 
of  others,  cannot  appreciate  the  beauty  of  the  blossom  as 
can  the  one  whose  eye  has  been  trained  to  see  the  distinctive 
characteristics  of  different  species,  or  even  of  different  plants 
of  the  same  species.  In  the  same  way,  the  florist  to  whom 
an  aster  is  but  an  aster  or  a  sweet  pea  but  a  sweet  pea,  cannot 
get  the  enjoyment  from  growing  these  flowers  that  the  one 
gets  who  knows  by  name  the  varieties  of  each,  and  can  tell 
at  a  glance  whether  a  given  specimen  is  typical  of  its  variety 
or  not.  When  you  go  into  a  street-car  crowded  with  strangers 
whose  names  you  do  not  know,  your  sensations  are  different 
from  those  you  have  when  you  go  into  a  similar  car  filled 
with  friends  and  acquaintances.  So  when  you  go  into  a 
garden  your  delight  is  always  greater  when  you  can  call  by 
name  a  large  proportion  of  its  occupants. 


98        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

On  general  principles,  also,  the  seed  of  named  varieties  of 
flowers  is  likely  to  have  been  more  carefully  selected  than 
the  cheaper  mixed  seed.  To  keep  a  variety  true  to  name 
requires  eternal-  vigilance  on  the  part  of  the  seed  grower  and 
the  constant  elimination  of  plants  that  do  not  approach  the 
grower's  ideal  of  the  variety  type. 

ROMAN  HYACINTHS 

Few  spring  flowering  bulbs  are  so  easy  to  force  into  blossom 
in  time  for  the  Christmas  holidays  as  are  the  Roman  Hya- 
cinths. They  may  be  planted  in  almost  any  sort  of  recep- 
tacle and  crowded  together  more  thickly  than  most  other 
bulbs,  and  still  yield  an  abundant  supply  of  beautiful  blos- 
soms. Several  of  the  bulbs  may  be  placed  in  a  three-inch 
or  four-inch  paper  flower-pot,  or  a  great  many  may  be  grown 
in  a  large  shallow  box  or  dish.  They  need  be  left  in  the  cool 
.basement  only  three  or  four  weeks  before  bringing  them  to 
a  warmer  lighted  room. 

The  beautiful  flowers  are  borne  on  pedicels  along  a  central 
stalk.  They  have  a  sweet  and  pleasant  perfume  and  they 
serve  admirably  as  models  for  drawing  with  a  lead-pencil. 
The  bulbs  are  so  inexpensive  that  every  school  which  at- 
tempts to  do  anything  with  winter  flowers  should  grow  an 
abundance  of  them. 


THE  DECEMBER  CALENDAR 

BRING  from  the  basement  more  of  the  spring  flowering  bulbs  that  show 

a  good  root  development. 
BRING  to  the  light  of  the  room  the  lilies-of-the-valley  after  they  have 

been  in  a  warm  closet  about  two  weeks. 


THE  DECEMBER  CALENDAR 


99 


START  a  window -box  with  flowering  plants  from  the  florist's.  Try  prim- 
roses, getting  enough  to  make  a  good  showing.  Sink  the  pots  in 
the  soil  without  removing  the  plants,  if  so  desired.  Do  not  cover 
the  crowns. 

KEEP  WATCH  of  all  plants  for  aphides  or  green-flies.  As  soon  as  any 
are  seen,  spray  with  sulpho-tobacco  soap  solution. 

PLANT  a  root  of  beet,  carrot,  radish,  salsify,  or  other  root-crop  in  a 
window-box  to  develop  into  flower  and  seed.  Try  a  cabbage 
stock  also,  having  cut  the  head  from  around  it. 


JANUARY 


Plumose  Asparagus. 


Hours  fly, 
Flowers  die, 
New  days, 
New  ways, 
Pass  by; 
Love  stays. 

—INSCRIPTION  ON  A  SUNDIAL. 


Silk  Oak  or  Grevillea. 


JANUARY 
ATTRACTIVE  FOLIAGE  PLANTS 

One  who  intends  to  get  the  most  satisfaction  from  growing 
plants  5n-doors  cannot  afford  to  neglect  the  many  foliage 
plants  which  are  now  available.  In  their  beauty  and  grace 
some  of  these  appeal  to  us  with  as  much  force  as  the  more 
striking  flowering  plants,  while  on  account  of  their  ease  of 
culture  and  the  fact  that  they  need  but  little  direct  sunlight, 
they  fill  a  place  that  cannot  be  filled  so  well  by  any  other 
group  of  plants. 

Most  of  the  desirable  foliage  plants  may  be  purchased 
when  small  for  a  few  cents.  Some  of  the  commoner  sorts 
will  be  found  at  the  local  florist's  and  can  be  best  purchased 
there,  but  many  of  the  varieties  must  be  ordered  from  the 
catalogues  of  the  great  seed  houses,  and  it  is  well  worth  while 
to  try  a  few  of  these  in  order  to  develop  the  interest  that  is 
always  found  in  growing  new  things.  Study  the  plant  cata- 
logues and  the  illustrations  and  select  a  few  of  the  things 
which  seem  most  likely  to  please  you  and  to  be  best  adapted 
to  your  conditions. 

Some  of  the  best  foliage  plants  may  be  grown  from  seed, 
and  wherever  possible  this  is  much  the  most  satisfactory  way. 
For  the  interest  in  a  plant  which  one  has  grown  from  the 
seed  is  greater  than  in  one  bought  from  the  florist.  You 
remember  how  Hawthorne  described  his  garden  in  "  Mosses 
from  an  Old  Manse/'  and  adds:  "I  used  to  visit  and  revisit 

103 


104        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

it  a  dozen  times  a  day,  and  stand  in  deep  contemplation  over 
my  vegetable  progeny  with  a  love  that  nobody  could  share  or 
conceive  of  who  had  never  taken  part  in  the  process  of 
creation." 

To  the  real  gardener  the  chief  delight  comes  from  watching 
things  grow  rather  than  from  the  results.  Like  the  tourist 
in  Stevenson's  song,  it  is  the  journey  and  not  the  end  of  the 
journey  that  is  worth  the  while.  If  one  is  looking  always  for 
a  certain  result  one  might  use  the  artificial  paper  flowers  and 
palms  and  ferns,  which  require  no  care  whatever,  but  which 
are,  of  all  the  false  things  in  the  world,  perhaps  the  most  in- 
tolerable. 

"The  natural  course,"  wrote  Forbes  Watson  many  years 
ago  in  his  classic  book  on  "Flowers  and  Gardens/'  "is  for 
people  to  delight  in  loving  and  cherishing  plants  from  earliest 
youth  and  to  trace  their  slow  progress  into  age.  Nothing 
can  be  more  pleasurable  than  this.  At  the  beginning  of  the 
season  we  see  the  green  tips  of  the  snowdrop  and  crocuses, 
then  those  of  the  daffodils  appear,  then  some  fine  morning 
unexpectedly  as  we  enter  the  garden  a  golden  aconite  has 
lifted  its  face  from  a  cluster  of  buds,  still  downward,  and 
given  us  cheerful  greeting;  coming,  perhaps,  just  where  we 
had  least  expected  it,  from  some  bed  where  we  had  forgotten 
that  it  grew." 

For  starting  the  seeds  of  the  foliage  plants  one  may  use  the 
ordinary  window-boxes,  and  very  often  one  can  utilize  a 
part  of  a  box  in  which  other  things  are  growing.  Perhaps 
no  plant  is  better  worth  trying  than  the  beautiful  fine-leaved 
asparagus,  called  by  the  rather  formidable  name  Asparagus 
plumosus  nanus.  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
foliage  plants  as  well  as  one  of  the  easiest  to  grow.  It  starts 


ATTRACTIVE   FOLIAGE   PLANTS  105 

readily  from  seeds,  which  are  very  similar  to  those  of  the 
asparagus  in  our  gardens.  The  seeds  may  be  planted  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  and  one  inch  apart,  and,  after  they 
are  well  started,  the  seedlings  may  be  transplanted  into  small 
pots  or  directly  into  window-boxes.  This  plant  is  often 
called  the  asparagus  fern,  but  it  is  not 
a  fern  at  all,  but  a  true  asparagus  and 
is  closely  related  to  the  common  gar- 
den vegetable. 

The  plant  called  Asparagus  spren- 
geri  is  much  less  attractive  than  the 
plumosus  form.  Its  leaves  are  larger 
and  its  general  effect  coarser.  But  it 
gives  an  attractive  mass  of  greenery 
and  is  easy  to  grow.  It  may  be  raised 
from  seed,  and  is  particularly  desira- 
ble for  use  in  hanging  baskets. 

Another  plant  which  may  be  grown 
from  seed  is  the  silk  oak,  often  called 
grevillea,  and  known  technically  as 
Grevillea  robust  a.  This  is  an  ex- 
tremely attractive  foliage  plant.  The 
seed  should  be  sown  in  February  or  March,  and  the  young 
seedlings  transplanted  into  small  pots  when  they  have  attained 
a  height  of  about  three  inches.  With  the  most  ordinary  care 
the  seedlings  will  grow  rapidly  and  should  be  shifted  into 
larger  pots  as  their  increase  of  roots  necessitates.  By  the 
following  autumn  they  will  be  of  good  size  and  form  very 
attractive  foliage  plants. 

A  group  of  plants  which  during  recent  years  have  come  to 
be  very  largely  grown  as  specimen  plants  for  halls  and  living 


Seedling  Asparagus  Sprengeri. 


ic6 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


rooms  is  that  of  the  Araucarias.  These  are  really  small, 
coniferous  trees,  having  the  general  effect  of  an  out-door 
evergreen  with  richly  colored,  spiny  foliage  that  gives  them  a 
decided  attractiveness.  The  species  most  commonly  grown 
is  Araucaria  excelsa,  which  the  English  gardeners  call  the 
Norfolk  island  pine.  The  foliage  of  this  is  a  dark,  rich, 

yellow  green  color,  and 
the  manner  of  growth  is 
very  symmetrical.  An- 
other variety,  even  more 
attractive,  is  the  Arauca- 
ria bidwelli,  while  several 
other  sorts  are  offered  in 
the  catalogues.  All  of 
these  are  rather  easy  to 
grow,  and  the  commoner 
kinds,  if  purchased  when 
small,  are  inexpensive. 
Care  should  be  taken  not 
to  transfer  them  too  rap- 
idly to  larger  pots,  nor  to 
water  them  too  much. 
No  discussion  of  foli- 

Norfolk  Island  Pine  in  a  Japanese  Jardiniere.  age    plants    would     DC     at 

all  adequate  which  did  not  include  some  mention  of  the  Rex 
Begonias.  These  are  probably,  next  to  the  geraniums,  the 
mcst  universally  grown  of  house  plants.  They  have  been 
developed  through  many  years  of  culture  into  an  extraordi- 
nary variety  of  forms  and  colorings.  Many  of  them  show 
color  combinations  of  wonderful  beauty.  Begonias  in  gen- 
eral are  divided  into  three  great  groups,  namely,  the  Tuber- 


ATTRACTIVE   FOLIAGE  PLANTS 


107 


ous-rooted  Begonias,  the  Fibrous-rooted  Begonias,  and  the 
Rex  Begonias.  The  Tuberous-rooted  Begonias  have  recently 
become  very  popular  as  bedding  plants  for  out-door  gardens, 
their  waxy  flowers  showing  extreme  brilliance  in  coloring. 
They  are  most  commonly  propagated  from  seed.  The 
Fibrous  -  rooted  Be- 
gonias are  the  flow- 
ering kinds  generally 
grown  for  winter 
blossoming  as  well 
as  for  the  summer 
garden  out-doors. 

The  Rex  Begonias 
may  be  propagated 
either  from  seed  or 
from  leaf  cuttings. 
The  seed  is  sown  on 
the  soil  surface  in 
shallow  boxes  in  Feb- 
ruary or  March,  de- 
veloping in  about  ten  days  into  tiny  green  seedlings,  difficult 
to  see  without  a  reading-glass.  After  some  weeks  of  growth 
they  become  large  enough  to  transplant  into  other  boxes, 
and  when  an  inch  high  may  be  transferred  to  two-inch  pots. 
For  leaf  cuttings,  mature  leaves  of  good  size  are  so  cut  that 
two  of  the  principal  veins  meet  at  the  bottom.  These  are 
planted  in  sand  or  in  a  cutting  garden  like  other  slips,  and 
will  develop  into  good-sized  plants  after  some  months,  being 
transferred,  of  course,  to  soil  when  the  root  system  is  suffi- 
ciently developed. 

A  good  peaty  soil  or  a  soil  composed  largely  of  leaf  mold 


Rex  Begonia  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar. 


io8 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


and  sand  answers  very  well  for  begonias.  They  all  require 
good  drainage,  and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  give  them 
too  much  water.  It  is  also  desirable  to  keep  the  Rex  Be- 
gonias in  rather  small 
pots  for  the  first  year 
of  their  development. 
They  thrive  best  where 
they  do  not  get  direct 
sunshine. 

The  seeds  of  the  dif- 
ferent types  of  bego- 
nias are  listed  in  the 
catalogues  at  from  ten 
to  twenty  -  five  cents 
per  package.  Any  one 
who  will  try  growing 
them  for  the  first  time 
will  find  it  a  most  in- 
teresting experience. 

Some  of  the  sedges 
are  also  excellent  foli- 
age plants.  The  one  commonly  called  the  umbrella  plant 
is  one  of  the  best  of  these. 

CLAY  FLOWER- JARS 

It  is  always  worth  while  to  have  an  appropriate  and  at- 
tractive receptacle  for  a  growing  plant.  One  advantage  of 
the  paper  flower-pots  is  that  they  are  so  thin  that  they  are 
easily  set  into  attractive  flower-jars.  One  can  get  at  small 
cost  suitable  jars  at  the  shops  in  the  larger  cities.  One  can 
also  make  in  school  or  at  home  flower-jars  of  great  beauty 


The  Umbrella  Plant. 


CLAY  FLOWER-JARS  109 

and  surprising  durability  by  a  very  simple  process.  The 
ordinary  modelling  clay  so  largely  used  in  schools  is  a  prac- 
ticable material  which,  when  dry  and  coated  with  enamel 
paint,  makes  good  durable  jars. 

The  process  of  making  is  simple.  Having  on  hand  some 
of  the  clay,  break  it  up  and  moisten  it  to  a  condition  to  be 
workable;  then  mold  it  to  the  de- 
sired form  and  set  it  aside  to  dry  for  a 
week  or  more.  When  dry,  coat  it 
inside  and  out  with  enamel  paint,  and 
set  aside  again  for  the  paint  to  hard- 
en thoroughly.  You  then  have  a 
flower-jar  into  which  you  can  easily 
place  a  flowering  bulb  just  coming 
into  blossom,  and  the  whole  will  serve 
admirably  for  adorning  your  own  liv- 
ing rooms  or  as  a  present  to  a  friend. 

Before  beginning  to  mold  the  jar 
you  should  have  in  mind  the  form  you 
wish  to  make.  Draw  a  series  of  pen- 
cil sketches  of  forms  of  flower- jars 

Crocus  in  a  Clay  Flower-jar. 

and  choose  the  ones  you  like  best,  or 

copy  some  simple  form  in  vase  or  picture.  For  the  most  part 
these  hand-modelled  jars  must  be  not  very  high  in  proportion 
to  their  breadth  and  not  complicated  in  design.  They  are 
all  the  better  for  being  of  the  simplest  forms.  Different 
bulbs  require  different  sized  jars;  the  jonquils  and  smaller 
varieties  of  narcissi  may  be  transplanted  into  smaller  jars 
than  the  larger  daffodils.  It  is  better  not  to  attempt  to 
make  a  drainage  hole  in  the  bottom;  the  hole  is  not  necessary 
for  the  bulbs  and  the  painting  becomes  more  uncertain  and 


no        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

difficult  when  it  is  present.  In  modelling  the  clay  you  must 
learn  to  use  wet  fingers  to  keep  the  surface  smooth. 

The  result,  so  far  as  beauty  is  concerned,  depends  almost 
as  much  upon  the  painting  of  the  surface  as  it  does  upon  the 
modelling.  The  enamel  paints  which  one  may  get  from  any 
dealer  are  likely  to  be  too  brilliant  in  color  for  use  without 
toning  down.  You  may  easily  accomplish  this  by  mixing 
black  or  white  or  gray  with  the  various  colors  you  wish  to 
modify.  The  inside  of  the  jar  may  be  painted  with  plain 
white,  or,  better,  with  gray,  while  the  outside  may  be  toned 
to  suit  your  fancy.  Very  attractive  results  may  be  secured  by 
painting  the  outer  surface  in  gray  green  or  brown  or  some 
other  subdued  color  and  then  running  around  the  top  an- 
other harmonizing  color,  letting  the  latter  run  down  over  the 
former  here  and  there  around  the  jar. 

If  you  have  had  no  opportunity  to  study  the  laws  of  color 
harmony,  it  will  be  well  worth  while  to  get  some  book  upon 
the  subject  and  learn  the  principal  harmonies.  Some  color 
tones  combine  much  more  attractively  than  others,  as  you 
will  soon  find  by  a  little  experimenting  in  the  painting  of 
the  jars.  It  will  be  safer  in  beginning  to  keep  to  gray-greens 
and  subdued  browns  rather  than  to  try  the  reds  and  yellows. 
After  the  painting  is  finished  the  jars  are  to  be  set  aside  again 
to  harden.  This  will  require  several  days,  the  time  depend- 
ing somewhat  upon  the  kind  of  paint  used.  When  dry  there 
should  be  no  cracks  in  the  surface  and  the  jar  should  be  so 
firm  as  to  be  handled  without  danger  of  breaking. 

SEED  TESTING 

It  is  often  well  worth  while  for  a  gardener  to  know  before 
he  plants  his  seeds  what  percentage  of  them  will  be  likely  to 


SEED   TESTING  in 

germinate.  He  can  determine  this  very  easily  by  making 
some  tests  in-doors.  In  the  making  of  these  tests  two 
methods  are  commonly  employed.  In  one,  the  seeds  are 
simply  given  favorable  conditions  for  sprouting,  and  as  soon 
as  they  have  sprouted  they  are  counted  and  then  thrown 
away.  In  the  other,  the  seeds  are  planted  in  soil  and  al- 
lowed to  develop  into  seedlings  long  enough  to  show  the 
percentage  of  plants  that  would  be  likely  to  grow  in  the 
garden.  In  general,  the  latter  method  will  give  more  ac- 
curate results  than  the  former,  for  many  seeds  have  sufficient 
vitality  to  germinate,  but  not  to  develop  into  growing  plants. 

The  determination  of  the  percentage  of  seeds  which  will 
sprout  under  favorable  conditions  is  a  very  simple  matter. 
If  you  stop  to  think  a  moment  of  the  conditions  under  which 
seeds  sprout  in  the  garden  out-doors  you  will  see  that  in  the 
place  just  below  the  soil  surface  where  they  rest  while  they 
are  sprouting  they  have  these  three  essentials — air,  warmth, 
and  moisture.  Consequently,  if  you  supply  these  require- 
ments to  any  seed,  they  should  be  able  to  start  their  growth 
and  thus  show  you  what  percentage  has  sufficient  vitality  to 
germinate. 

One  of  the  simplest  ways  of  conducting  a  germinating 
test  is  to  place  the  seeds  between  layers  of  cotton  batting, 
keeping  the  cotton  moist  and  in  a  warm  room.  The  cotton 
batting  may  be  simply  rolled  up  and  placed  inside  a  paper 
flower-pot  which  should  be  covered  with  a  piece  of  card- 
board, or  it  may  be  laid  upon  a  saucer  or  plate  and  another 
saucer  or  plate  inverted  over  it.  Instead  of  cotton  batting 
one  may  use  blotting-paper  or  even  flannel  cloth. 

It  is  desirable  to  select  for  germinating  tests  either  fifty  or 
one  hundred  seeds  in  order  that  the  percentage  may  be 


112 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


readily  computed.  A  few  days  after  the  seeds  are  placed  in 
the  germinator  they  will  begin  to  sprout,  and  as  fast  as  they 
do  this  they  should  be  removed  and  an  accurate  record  kept. 
By  the  end  of  a  week  or  so  from  the  time  the  sprouting 
begins  all  that  would  be  likely  to  grow  out-doors  will  have 
germinated,  and  those  which  remain  will  represent  the  per- 
centage of  seeds  that 
do  not  germinate. 

By  sowing  fifty  or 
a  hundred  seeds  in  a 
tiny  drill  or  furrow 
in  the  window-box, 
one  can  readily  make 
a  test  of  the  growing 
powers  of  any  seed. 
In  doing  this  it  is 
necessary  that  they 
all  be  covered  with 
about  the  same  amount  of  soil.  To  insure  such  uniform 
planting,  make  a  furrow  by  pushing  the  square  edge  of  a  ruler 
into  the  soil  one-half  inch,  thus  leaving  a  small  furrow  of  that 
depth.  Along  the  bottom  of  this  place  the  seeds,  one  at  a  time, 
and  cover  them  uniformly  with  fine  soil.  Be  very  careful  in 
watering — simply  keep  the  soil  moist,  but  not  wet,  and  as  the 
plants  come  up  let  them  grow  for  a  week  or  two  to  see  what 
difference  there  is  in  the  vigor  of  the  different  seedlings.  When 
each  has  shown  sufficient  vitality  so  that  you  are  satisfied  that 
it  would  make  a  good  plant,  pull  it  up,  keeping  a  careful  rec- 
ord of  the  number  thus  pulled.  At  the  end  of  the  testing,  this 
number,  as  compared  with  the  total  number  of  seeds  planted, 
will  give  you  the  percentage  that  will  be  likely  to  grow. 


Tomato  Seedlings  in  a  Window-box. 


SEED   TESTING  113 

Instead  of  the  window-box,  paper  flower-pots  may  be  used 
to  great  advantage  for  this  seed  testing.  Fill  a  pot  with 
good  loamy  soil  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top,  then  scatter 
evenly  over  the  surface  twenty-five  or  fifty  or  one  hundred 
of  the  seeds  to  be  tested,  cover  these  with  a  half  inch  of  sifted 
garden  soil,  water  carefully,  and  watch  the  seedlings  in  the 
way  described  above. 

In  general,  the  highest  percentage  of  good  seeds  will  be 
found  from  the  sprouting  test,  the  next  highest  will  be  found 
from  the  seedling  test,  and  both  of  these  will  be  likely  to  be 
higher  than  the  actual  results  that  can  be  obtained  in  the 
garden  out-doors.  In  the  latter  the  conditions  are  generally 
less  favorable  to  the  development  of  the  seedling  than  are 
the  conditions  of  the  in-door  tests. 

It  is  much  more  important  to  make  tests  of  some  seeds 
than  it  is  of  others.  Two  sorts  of  seeds  in  which  it  is  well 
worth  while  to  make  such  tests  are  tomatoes  and  onions.  In 
case  of  the  tomatoes,  cheap  seeds  will  often  give  a  compara- 
tively small  percentage  of  good  plants,  and  it  is  most  im- 
portant that  the  tests  should  be  made  so  early  that  if  the 
results  are  not  favorable  other  seeds  may  be  obtained  in  time 
for  planting.  For  example,  a  great  many  poor  onion  seeds 
are  sold,  and  it  is  very  important  that  the  percentage  of 
germination  of  a  given  lot  be  determined  before  the  main 
sowing  is  made.  In  case  the  seeds  should  prove  to  have  a 
low  percentage  of  germination,  it  will  be  desirable,  of  course, 
to  sow  the  seed  more  thickly,  or  very  often  it  will  be  desirable 
to  discard  it  altogether  and  substitute  a  better  quality  of 
seed. 

In  case  of  a  few  plants,  however,  older  seed  is  preferred. 
For  example,  when  cucumber  seed  is  ten  years  or  more  old, 


ii4        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

only  the  strongest  seeds,  surest  to  produce  plants  true  to  the 
type  preferred,  still  preserve  good  vitality;  so  large  growers  of 
cucumbers  prefer  such  seed  where  the  percentage  of  ger- 
mination is  low.  Similarly,  seed  of  double  balsam  gives  a 
larger  percentage  of  double  flowers  if  aged  until  the  weaker 
seed  has  lost  power  of  germination. 

THE  CLASSIFICATION  OF  VEGETABLES 

The  crops  that  are  commonly  grown  as  garden  vegetables 
may  be  classified  in  various  ways.  One  of  the  most  satis- 
factory arrangements  is  that  adopted  by  Professor  L.  H. 
Bailey  in  his  book,  "The  Principles  of  Vegetable  Garden- 
ing,"  which  is  reproduced  with  slight  modifications  in  the 
diagram  on  the  following  page.  According  to  this  system, 
which  is  based  on  methods  of  culture,  garden  crops  are  first 
arranged  into  those  which  are  grown  as  annuals  and  those 
which  are  grown  as  perennials.  Of  the  latter,  the  asparagus 
and  rhubarb  are  much  the  most  important,  while  the  former 
includes  nearly  all  the  crops  which  we  commonly  think  of  as 
vegetables. 

As  will  be  seen  by  the  diagram,  these  annuals  are  arranged 
under  three  main  groups.  The  first  includes  those  crops  in 
which  the  underground  part  of  the  plant  is  utilized,  these 
underground  parts  consisting  sometimes  of  roots,  sometimes 
of  tubers,  and  sometimes  of  bulbs.  The  next  group  includes 
those  crops  in  which  the  leaves  and  leaf  stems  are  eaten,  and 
the  third  in  which  the  seeds  and  fruits  are  eaten. 

The  six  most  important  Root  Crops  are  the  beet,  carrot, 
parsnip,  radish,  salsify,  and  turnip.  In  all  of  these  the  edible 
portion  for  which  the  crops  are  grown  consists  of  a  thickened 


CLASSIFICATION   OF  VEGETABLES 


Roots,  Tubers 
and  Bulbs    ( 


Annual 
Vegetables^ 


Root 


Leaves 

and 
Leaf  Stems 


Cole 


Radish 


Seeds  and    ( 
Fruits       \ 


Pulse 


Tomato 

and 
Others 


Vine 


Corn 

and 

Others 


(  Radi 
Crops  <  Carr 
(  Turn 


Beet 

Parsnip 

Salsify 


c  Onion 
Crops  <  Leek 
(  Chive 


Cro 


Shallot 
Garlic 


Sprouts 


Kohlrabi 
Kale 


l  Spi 

Crops  <  Ch 
f  Pur 


Spinach 
ard 
rslane 


Dandelion 

Orach 

Mustard 


f  Lettuce  Endive 

^  J  Celerv  Parsley 

Crops  <  CressJ  WaterCres 

[  Upland  or  Winter  Cress 


Cr°Ps  {  Pea0 


n         (Tomato 
Cr°Ps  1  Pepper 


Crops 


(  Cucumber 
<  Pumpkin 
(Melon 


t  Sweet  Corn 
Cr°Ps  \  Martynia 


Egg-plant 
Physalis 


Watermelon 

Squash 

Gherkin 


Okra 


n6        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

fleshy  tap-root.  They  are  biennials  in  their  origin,  storing 
up  food  the  first  year  underground  and  using  this  the  second 
year  when  flowering  and  producing  seed,  so  they  are  hardy 
enough  to  be  sown  early  and  harvested  late  or  even  after  a 
winter  in  the  ground.  While  varieties  of  some  have  been 
obtained  which  will  produce  edible  roots  within  a  few  weeks, 
most  need  a  long  season  to  reach  maturity,  and  are  still  grown 
as  biennials  to  secure  seed. 

The  only  important  Tuber  Crops  are  the  potato  and  sweet 
potato.  Potato  tubers  differ  from  roots  in  that  each  is  de- 
veloped as  a  store  of  food  at  the  end  of  a  root-stock,  each 
thickened  tuber  having  buds  or  eyes  from  which  new  branches 
with  leaves  may  develop.  A  sweet  potato,  like  a  dahlia,  is 
more  a  thickened  root  than  a  root-stock,  for  the  eyes  are  on 
the  end  toward  the  main  plant  stem,  while  the  other  end  is 
rooted.  A  potato  has  no  roots  on  the  tuber,  and  the  eyes 
are  clustered  on  the  free  end,  like  any  branch  above  ground. 

The  most  important  Bulb  Crops  are  the  onions,  chives, 
garlic,  and  leek.  .  In  these  bulbs  the  root-stock  is  greatly 
modified  into  a  series  of  scales,  one  lapping  upon  the  other 
in  a  way  familiar  to  every  one  who  ever  saw  the  structure  of 
an  onion.  The  true  roots  develop  from  the  base  of  these 
scales  while  the  leaves  are  sent  out  from  the  upper  ends. 
These  vegetables  are  grouped  together  more  because  they 
belong  to  the  same  plant  family  rather  than  because  alike 
in  culture.  Chives,  for  example,  are  grown  as  perennials 
for  their  leaves,  which  are  used  like  herbs  in  seasoning, 
and  they  are  reproduced  more  by  division  of  the  clumps 
than  from  seed.  And  in  case  of  the  leek,  no  large  bulb  is 
formed,  but  the  long,  thick,  blanched  bases  of  the  leaves 
are  used,  being  stored  green  like  celery. 


CLASSIFICATION   OF  VEGETABLES  117 

There  are  three  groups  of  vegetables  arranged  under  the 
heading  of  Leaves  and  Leaf  Stems.  The  Cole  Crops  are 
supposed  to  be  cultivated  varieties  of  one  and  the  same  wild 
plant  native  to  the  coasts  of  western  Europe,  so  they  are 
alike  in  their  hardy  nature  and  preference  for  cool,  moist 
soil.  Since  the  parent  plant  is  a  perennial  and  the  cultivated 
varieties  are  biennials,  most  of  them  require  a  long  season 
for  full  development,  and  young  plants  are  started  early  in 
seed  beds.  Kale  and  collards  are  very  hardy,  and  have 
large  free  leaves,  thus  resembling  more  closely  the  wild 
plant.  In  cabbage  the  leaves  form  a  dense  head  of  blanched 
leaves,  while  Brussels  sprouts  produces  small  heads,  as  buds 
in  the  axils  of  the  leaf  stems.  Kohlrabi  produces  a  turnip- 
like  swelling  or  tuber  on  the  stem,  from  which  the  leaves 
grow;  while  cauliflower  is  grown  for  the  short,  thick,  white, 
tender  flower  parts  which  form  dense  heads  within  the  sur- 
rounding leaves. 

The  important  Pot  Herb  Crops  are  excellent  for  the 
school  garden.  Since  in  their  origin  they  are  hardy  weeds, 
and  now  in  cultivation  need  to  be  grown  quickly  in  spring  to 
afford  crisp,  tender  leaves  when  pot  herbs  are  in  demand, 
they  may  be  grown  during  the  school  year,  and  harvested 
before  school  closes.  Spinach  and  mustard  are  best  for  this 
purpose.  The  dandelion  must  be  planted  in  spring  or  sum- 
mer, and  harvested  the  following  April.  Swiss  chard  affords 
fine  greens  for  the  home  table,  and  crisp,  white  stems,  as  a 
substitute  for  asparagus,  throughout  the  summer  heats.  It 
is  little  known  only  because  it  wilts  too  quickly  for  sale 
through  the  markets. 

The  Salad  Crops  are  closely  akin  to  the  Pot  Herb  Crops  in 
nature  and  culture;  indeed  some,  like  endive,  are  used  in 


n8       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

either  of  the  two  ways.  Lettuce,  cress,  and  corn  salad  are 
adapted  to  the  spring  school  garden,  while  endive  should  be 
sown  in  late  summer  for  the  autumn  term  of  school.  Celery 
and  parsley  are  long  season  crops. 

By  a  reference  to  the  diagram  it  will  be  seen  that  those 
vegetables  whose  seeds  and  fruits  are  eaten  are  of  great 
importance  in  furnishing  food  to  mankind.  The  Pulse 
Crops  include  peas  and  beans  of  all  kinds.  The  tomato, 
egg-plant,  pepper,  and  physalis  or  husk  tomato,  are  fre- 
quently included  under  the  name  Solanaceous  Crops,  because 
they  all  belong  to  the  family  Solanacece,  to  which  also  the 
potato  belongs.  Were  the  little  potato  balls  which  develop 
from  the  flowers  of  the  potato  the  edible  part,  this  crop 
would  be  included  along  with  the  tomato  under  the  present 
heading. 

The  Vine  Crops  form  a  very  distinctive  group,  all  belong- 
ing to  a  single  family  of  plants,  Cucurbitacece,  on  which 
account  these  are  often  called  Cucurbit  Crops.  Here  we 
find  the  cucumber,  melon,  pumpkin,  and  squash. 

The  last  group  includes  the  sweet  corn,  okra  or  gumbo, 
and  the  martynia.  The  two  last  named  are  plants  which 
are  grown  for  their  pods,  although  they  are  not  very  gener- 
ally known  throughout  the  Northern  States;  while  the 
former  is  the  only  member  of  the  great  family  of  grains  and 
grasses  which  is  grown  as  a  vegetable. 


THE  JANUARY  CALENDAR  119 


THE  JANUARY  CALENDAR 

SEND  for  seed  catalogues. 

START  cuttings  of  carnations. 

BRING  to  light  some  of  the  bulbs  placed  in  the  basement  in  Novembei. 

Sow  seed  of  French  Marigolds  to  have  plants  for  outside  window- 
boxes. 

PLANT  an  onion  in  a  window-box  to  let  it  develop  into  seed. 
ORDER  flower  and  vegetable  seeds,  at  least  of  flowers  to  be  sown  early, 

and  of  onion,  tomato,  pepper,  and  egg-plant. 
TEST  seeds  on  hand  and  those  purchased  to  determine  percentage  of 

germination. 
DECIDE  in  general  the  flowers  and  vegetables  you  wish  to  grow.     Then 

write  your  State  Experiment  Station  for  a  list  of  the  best  varieties 

of  each. 
MAKE  clay  flower-pots  and  transplant  crocuses,  jonquils,  or  other  bulbs 

into  them. 


FEBRUARY 


Trumpet  Daffodil. 


We  all- 'have  flower  favorites,  and  some  of  us  have  flower 
a-ntipathies,  or  at  least  we  are  indifferent  to  certain 
flowers;  but  I  never  knew  any  one  but  loved  the  daf- 
fodil. Not  only  have  poets  and  dramatists  sung  it,  but 
it  is  a  common  favorite,  as  shown  by  its  homely  names 
in  our  every-day  speech. 

—ALICE  MORSE  EARLE. 


Single  Trumpet  Daffodils  in  a  Japanese  Jardiniere. 


VI 

FEBRUARY 
DAFFODILS 

The  time  is  ripe  for  a  renewed  interest  in  the  narcissus,  a 
flower  which  from  time  immemorial  has  been  held  in  especial 
esteem  by  many  peoples.  There  are  hundreds  of  beautiful 
varieties  now  available,  of  greatly  varying  types,  and  for  the 
most  part  they  can  be  grown  with  very  little  trouble.  It 
seems  strange  that  we  should  be  able  to  say  that  there  appear 
to  be  fewer  varieties  cultivated  in  the  average  American 
garden  to-day  than  were  grown  in  many  English  gardens 
three  or  four  centuries  ago.  And  even  in  our  own  land,  the 
narcissus  seems  to  be  less  generally  grown  in  our  gardens 
than  in  those  of  our  forefathers  a  century  ago.  In  England 
there  are  daffodil  societies,  especially  organized  to  study  and 
improve  the  flower,  and  it  is  very  desirable  that  similar 
societies  should  be  formed  in  America. 

There  are  few  blossoms  better  adapted  to  intensify  the  de- 
light of  spring  in  the  home,  in  city  or  country,  than  this. 
Whether  the  grounds  be  large  or  small,  there  is  room  for 
these  bulbs,  which  only  need  to  be  placed  in  the  soil  in 
autumn  to  yield  their  meed  of  beauty  in  spring.  Once  es- 
tablished, they  will  reappear  season  after  season,  delighting 
the  eyes  of  all  beholders.  With  less  care  than  is  required  by 
almost  any  other  plant,  they  will  also  bloom  in-doors  in 
constant  succession  from  Christmas  until  Easter. 

123 


I24 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


A  Double  Daffodil. 


He  who  is  satisfied  with  two 
or  three  sorts  of  daffodils  misses 
the  best  part  of  the  pleasure  of 
growing  them.  One  should  not 
be  content  without  at  least  one 
variety,  to  represent  er.ch  of  the 
half-dozen  important  forms  as- 
sumed by  the  hundreds  of  sorts 
in  cultivation.  In  a  general  way 
they  are  divided  into  the  Tazetta 
or  Polyanthus  group,  in  which 
there  are  several  blossoms  clus- 
tered on  a  single  stem,  of  which 
the  familiar  Paper-white  Narcis- 
sus is  an  example,  and  those  in 
which  there  is  but  one  flower  on  a  stem.  The  latter  are  in 
turn  divided  into  three  principal  groups,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  crown  or  trumpet  in  the  middle  of  the  flower; 
namely,  the  small- 
crowned,  the  medi- 
um-crowned, and  the 
large-crowned  nar- 
cissi. The  small- 
crowned  s  o  rt  s ,  of 
which  the  Poet's  nar- 
cissus is  an  example, 
are  the  true  narcissi ; 
the  medium-crowned, 
of  which  the  Barrii 
Narcissus  and  the 
variety  Stella  are  ex- 

••  ihe  btella  Narcissus. 


DAFFODILS  125 

amples,  are  often  called  chalice-flowers  or  Star  Narcissi; 
the  large-crowned,  of  which  the  Emperor  and  the  Trumpet 
tyEajor  varieties  are  examples,  are  the  true  daffodils.  Of 
the  latter  there  are  various  double  sorts,  which,  however, 
are  less  beautiful  than  the  more  simple  single  varieties. 

In  the  latitude  of  New  York  City,  the  daffodils  blos- 
som out  of  doors  in  April,  and  continue  well  through 
May.  There  is  much  variation  in  the  earliness  of  different 
varieties,  so  that  by  judicious  planting  one  can  greatly 
lengthen  the  blossoming  period.  When  protected  by  a  cold- 
frame  from  wind  and  rain,  the  flowers  develop  in  finer  con- 
dition, a  result  which  may  also  be  obtained  by  cutting  the 
stalks  just  before  they  come  into  bloom  and  placing  them  in 
flower-jars  in-doors.  The  stalks  absorb  the  water  and  de- 
velop splendid  flowers,  which  are  very  welcome  in  the  home 
at  this  early  season.  For  holding  such  blossoms,  a  few 
rather  small,  more  or  less  cylindrical  jars  are  especially  de- 
sirable, the  coloring  being  in  neutral  tones  of  green,  gray,  or 
blue,  and  there  being  no  elaborate  decoration.  For  in  these, 
as  in  all  receptacles  for  flowers,  we  should  bear  in  mind  that 
they  are  to  serve  to  hold  objects  of  beauty  rather  than  to  be 
in  themselves  the  centre  of  attraction. 

Trumpet  Daffodils 

In  many  respects  the  true  daffodils,  byf  which,  as  already 
indicated,  is  meant  the  large-crowned  or  trumpet  varieties  of 
narcissus,  are  the  most  satisfactory  ones  to  grow.  The 
blossoms  are  large,  beautiful  in  form  and  color,  and  easily 
grown  either  out  of  doors  or  in  the  house.  Many  of  the 
larger  forms  are  as  easily  forced  in  water  as  the  hyacinths, 
and  they  are  particularly  attractive  when  so  grown. 


126 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


There  are  a  great  many  varieties  of  these  Trumpet  Daffo- 
dils, the  differences  between  them  being  shown  in  the  varying 
colors  of  trumpet  and  perianth,  as  well  as  in  the  shape  and 

size  of  the  blossom  as  a  whole. 
The  different  sorts  vary  greatly  as  to 
earliness,  so  that  one  may  easily 
have  a  long  season  of  flowering  by 
selecting  varieties  which  bloom  in 
succession. 

Princeps  is  one  of  the  earliest  and 
most    satisfactory  of    these  sorts, 
either  for  in-door  or  out-door  plant- 
ing.    It  is  a  beautiful  flower,  with 
a  light  sulphur  yellow  per- 
ianth   expanding   about 
three  inches,  and  a  clear 
yellow  trumpet  reaching  a 
height  of  more  than   one 
inch  and  of  good  length. 
The  bulbs  are  inexpensive. 
Spurius,  or  single  Von 
Sion,  is  an  all-yellow  vari- 
ety somewhat  less  attrac- 
tive than  Princeps,  partly 
because  the  flower  stalks 
are    likely   to    be    rather 
short,  although  this  doubt- 
less depends  a  good  deal  upon  the  size  of  the  bulbs 
and  the  treatment  they  receive.     Trumpet  Major  is 
a  golden-yellow  variety,  which  has  been  very  largely 
grown,  but  now  seems  to  be  generally  replaced  by 


STARTING   EARLY  VEGETABLES  127 

other  sorts.  The  Trumpet  Maximus  is  a  deep  golden-yellow 
flower,  which  was  said  by  Mr.  Eugene  Bourne,  an  English 
daffodil  specialist,  to  be  "the  most  elegant  in  form  and 
richest  in  color  of  all  the  daffodils." 

Of  the  varieties  which  are  commonly  grown  in  America, 
the  Emperor  is  certainly  one  of  the  largest  and  finest.  The 
splendid  flowers  have  the  perianth  primrose  color,  and  the 
trumpet  golden  yellow.  The  Empress  is  rather  smaller  in 
size,  having  a  yellow  trumpet  and  a  white  perianth.  In  this 
respect  it  resembles  the  Horsefieldii,  the  latter  being  some- 
what smaller  than  the  former. 

There  are  various  forms  of  double  daffodils,  in  which, 
however,  the  grace  and  spirit  of  the  single  flower  have  been 
sacrificed  for  a  display  of  color.  The  only  variety  which 
seems  at  all  worth  growing  is  the  double  Von  Sion,  which  is 
the  variety  most  commonly  grown  by  the  florists.  Good- 
sized  bulbs  will  yield  large  flowers  measuring  three  or  four 
inches  in  the  spread  of  the  perianth,  and  about  two  inches  in 
length.  At  a  little  distance  there  is  a  decided  attractiveness 
in  the  color  mass,  especially  when  the  flowers  first  open  and 
still  retain  a  suggestion  of  the  daffodil  form.  As  they  grow 
older,  however,  they  spread  out  in  a  way  that  is  much  less 
attractive. 

STARTING  EARLY  VEGETABLES 

The  success  of  out-door  gardens  depends  very  largely  upon 
getting  an  early  start,  especially  with  those  plants  that  re- 
quire a  long  period  for  their  best  development.  Fortunately, 
these  are  comparatively  few;  but  these  few  are  among  the 
most  important  garden  crops. 

For  growing  seedlings  of  the  early  vegetables  it  is  desirable 


123        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

to  have  some  shallow  boxes  in  which  the  seeds  may  be  sown 
quite  thickly,  to  be  transplanted  as  soon  as  they  get  one  or 
two  true  leaves.  It  is  also  very  desirable  to  have  these  boxes 
very  near  the  window  in  order  that  the  young  seedlings  may 
be  thrifty  and  stocky,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  air  and 
sunshine. 

One  of  the  most  important  crops  to  'start  early  in-doors  is 
the  tomato.  The  seed  may  be  sown  to  advantage  even  as 
early  as  the  middle  of  February,  and  the  young  seedlings, 
when  one  or  two  true  leaves  have  developed,  may  be  trans- 
ferred to  three-inch  paper  flower-pots,  where  they  will 
continue  to  develop  for  many  weeks.  If  they  become 
so  large  that  the  roots  crowd  in  the  pots  before  it  is  time 
to  plant  them  out-doors,  they  may  be  transferred  to  larger 
pots  to  advantage.  Whenever  they  are  shifted  from  the 
seed-bed  to  the  paper  pots,  or  from  a  smaller  pot  to  a 
larger  one,  it  is  desirable  to  set  them  deeper,  in  order  that  the 
earth  may  surround  the  stem  higher  up,  and  thus  lead  to  the 
development  of  new  roots  from  the  portion  of  the  stalk  thus 
covered. 

When  the  danger  from  frost  is  past  out-doors,  the  tomato 
plants  may  be  placed  in  the  open  ground,  being  set  so  deep 
that  a  considerable  portion  of  the  main  stalk  below  the  leaves 
is  covered  with  soil:  this  will  lead  to  a  greater  root  develop- 
ment and,  consequently,  a  more  vigorous  growth. 

Another  crop  that  is  well  worth  while  to  plant  in-doors  is 
the  pepper.  The  seedlings  of  these  may  be  grown  in  much 
the  same  way  as  those  of  the  tomato,  although  it  may  not  be 
so  desirable  to  set  the  plant  deeper  in  the  soil  at  each  trans- 
planting, nor  need  the  seeds  be  sown  so  early. 

One  of  the  best  crops  for  early  planting  is  the  onion.     It 


STARTING  EARLY  VEGETABLES 


129 


has  been  found  that  onion  seedlings  may  be  very  successfully 
transplanted,  and  that  the  crops  so  grown  yield  better  results 
than  when  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  open  ground.  The  onion 
seed  may  be  sown  sparsely  in  drills  in  the  seed-boxes  as 
early  as  the  first  of  February,  and  the  young  plants  allowed 
to  grow  until  about  the  first  of  May,  when 
they  may  be  transplanted  out-doors.  It 
is  desirable  to  cut  the  tops  off  about  one 
inch  from  the  ground  with  a  pair  of  scis- 
sors once  or  twice  during  this  period  of 
growth.  This  will  cause  a  better  devel- 
opment of  root  to  take  place  and  will 
lead  to  a  thriftier,  stockier  plant.  At  the 
time  of  transplanting  the  tops  should  be 
trimmed  so  that  they  are  about  one  inch 
high,  and  the  plants  should  be  set  but 
very  little  deeper  than  they  were  in  the 
seed-bed. 

Many  people  make  a  practice  of  start- 
ing seedlings  of  lettuce  in-doors  for  trans- 
pl  an  ting  out-doors.  It  is  somewhat 
questionable,  however,  whether  under 
ordinary  school  conditions  anything  is  thus 
gained  in  the  case  of  this  crop.  But  it  is  generally  worth 
while  to  get  such  a  start  with  the  slow-growing  parsley, 
especially  as  the  parsley  in  a  dry  spring  will  sometimes  be  a 
total  failure. 

One  of  the  most  satisfactory  crops  with  which  one  can  get 
an  early  start  is  that  of  potatoes.  It  has  lately  been  found 
that  the  season  of  growth  of  potatoes  can  be  shortened  very 
considerably  by  allowing  the  tubers  to  sprout  in  a  well-lighted 


Onion  Seedling. 


i3o       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

cellar  or  room.  They  are  simply  placed  upon  tables  or 
shelves  or  benches  exposed  to  the  light  and  air,  and  the 
sprouts  allowed  to  develop  for  two  or  three  weeks.  They 
are  then  planted  very  carefully  out-doors,  special  precautions 
being  taken  not  to  break  the  sprouts  off  the  tubers.  With 
the  start  thus  given  the  plants  come  up  very  quickly  and 
grow  rapidly,  producing  eatable  tubers  earlier  than  other 
potatoes  planted  at  the  same  time  in  the  usual  way.  This  is 
one  of  the  simplest  and  easiest  experiments  which  school 
gardeners  can  undertake. 

SEED-LEAVES  OR  COTYLEDONS 

The  pictures  on  the  next  page  tell  a  story  whicn  you  can 
easily  read  in  the  life  of  any  tomato  plant  that  you  grow 
from  the  seed.  You  plant  the  seed  in  a  warm  room  in 
moist  soil  and  it  soon  comes  up  as  a  little  seedling  with  two 
erect  leaves  folded  flat  against  each  other,  and  often  bearing 
on  their  tips  the  tiny  seed  coat.  Almost  as  soon  as  they 
come  up  these  seed-leaves  spread  out  horizontally  and  con- 
tinue to  increase  in  size  for  several  days.  Then,  if  you  look 
closely  at  the  plant,  you  will  see  one  or  two  tiny  leaves  ap- 
pearing from  between  the  bases  of  these  seed-leaves,  or 
cotyledons  as  they  are  sometimes  called.  As  these  later 
appearing  leaves  increase  in  size  you  will  soon  see  that  they 
are  very  different  from  the  seed-leaves  in  form,  and  you  will 
find  that  the  seed-leaves  no  longer  grow  larger.  The  other 
leaves,  however,  grow  rapidly  and  soon  take  on  an  appear- 
ance similar  to  that  of  an  ordinary  well  developed  tomato 
leaf,  and  are  followed  by  other  leaves  that  appear  from  the 
top  of  the  plant.  The  seed-leaves,  however,  are  gradually 
becoming  of  a  paler  color  and  will  finally  droop  downward, 


SEED-LEAVES   OR  COTYLEDONS  131 

wither,  and  fall  away,  and  your  plant  will  be  in  the  condition 
of  the  right-hand  picture  on  the  plate. 

This  rise  and  fall  of  the  cotyledons  is  characteristic  of 
many  seedling  plants,  for  these  cotyledons  are  the  store- 
houses of  food  materials  by  means  of  which  the  tiny  seedling 
is  enabled  to  get  a  start  in  the  world,  and  when  they  have 
served  this  purpose,  and  the  plant  is  able  to  shift  for  itself, 


Tomato  Seedlings— The  Rise  and  Fall  of  the  Cotyledons. 

they  drop  away.  The  seed-leaves  are  green,  like  true  leaves 
with  most  plants,  and  they  serve  the  purposes  of  true  leaves 
until  these  have  been  developed. 

If  you  will  sow  some  seeds  of  squash  or  pumpkins  you  can 
see  the  same  story  told  in  an  even  more  striking  fashion. 
You  doubtless  are  familiar  with  the  large,  deep-green  seed- 
leaves  of  young  squash  plants,  so  smooth  and  shiny  and  so 
different  in  form  and  structure  from  the  ordinary  leaves  of 
the  squash.  Or  you  can  get  the  story  told  in  a  somewhat 
different  fashion  if  you  will  plant  some  beans  in  a  paper 
flower-pot  and  watch  the  seedlings  as  they  develop.  The 
cotyledons  do  not  appear  to  be  such  definite  leaves  as  are 


132        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

those  of  the  tomato  and  the  squash,  but,  nevertheless,  they 
serve  their  purpose  to  enable  the  young  bean  plant  to  get  a 
start  in  the  world. 

If  at  the  same  time  as  you  plant  the  beans  you  will  also 
plant  some  peas  in  another  flower-pot,  and  when  they  come 
up  compare  the  seedlings  with  those  of  the  beans,  you  per- 
haps will  wonder  where  the  cotyledons  are.  Dig  up  one  of 
the  young  pea  seedlings  and  also  one  of  the  young  bean  seed- 
lings; wash  the  soil  out  of  the  roots,  lay  them  side  by  side, 
and  see  if  you  can  discover  where  the  cotyledons  of  the  pea 
seedlings  are. 

If  now  you  will  plant  a  few  kernels  of  corn  in  still  another 
flower-pot  and  watch  for  the  development  of  these  seedlings, 
you  will  find  that  the  first  leaves  which  appear  are  very 
similar  to  the  later  ones.  In  order  to  see  what  is  happening 
in  this  case,  dig  up  one  of  the  young  corn  plants,  wash  out  the 
roots,  and  compare  it  with  the  seedlings  of  the  peas. 

In  the  case  of  the  tomato,  the  squash,  the  bean,  and  the 
pea  there  were  two  cotyledons  for  each  seed,  but  in  the  case 
of  the  corn  there  is  but  one.  Consequently  the  four  plants 
first  named  are  examples  of  a  great  group  of  plants  which 
are  called  the  two-cotyledon  plants,  or  the  Dicotyledonous 
plants,  a  word  of  Latin  origin  which  means  having  two 
cotyledons.  The  corn  plant,  however,  is  an  example  of 
another  great  group  of  plants  in  which  there  is  but  one 
cotyledon,  and  so  these  are  called  the  Monocotyledonous 
plants.  See  if  you  can  find  among  the  garden  crops  you 
grow,  or  among  the  wild  plants  you  see  out-doors,  other  ex- 
amples of  each  of  these  two  groups.  And  see  also  if  you  can 
find  any  difference  in  the  formation  of  the  leaves  of  the 
plants  belonging  to  each. 


THE  FEBRUARY  CALENDAR          133 

One  of  the  best  ways  to  get  a  good  idea  of  the  fact  that 
these  seed-leaves  enable  the  plants  to  get  a  start  in  the  world 
is  to  sprout  the  seeds  in  damp  cotton  or  sphagnum  moss,  or 
even  clean  sand.  Of  course  the  young  seedling  will  get  very 
little  material  for  growth  from  such  substances,  and  doubtless 
you  will  be  surprised  to  see  how  large  they  will  become  before 
they  die  from  lack  of  food. 

THE  FEBRUARY  CALENDAR 

MAKE  definite  complete  planting  plans  for  all  home  and  school  garden 
plots. 

MAKE  an  estimate  of  seeds  needed  and  order  them  from  reliable  seeds- 
men. 

BRING  out  more  bulbs  from  the  basement. 

DON'T  throw  away  your  daffodil  plants  after  blossoming.  Watch  the 
passing  of  the  flower.  Let  the  leaves  ripen  off  and  in  spring  set 
the  bulbs  in  the  border  garden. 

Sow  S2ed  of  some  of  these  flowers:  French  Marigold,  Tufted  Pansy, 
dahlia,  Ten  Weeks  Stock,  salvia,  verbena. 

Sow  in  window-boxes,  seedling  boxes,  or  paper  flower-;  ots,  seeds  of 
onion,  beet,  carrot,  tomato,  egg-plant. 

EXAMINE  your  store  of  summer  flowering  bulbs  and  t'ibers.  Cannas 
may  be  too  dry.  If  fungus  is  attacking  any,  s^pirate  all  diseased 
stock,  improve  storage  conditions,  and  examine  again  soon. 


MARCH 


Crocus  Blossoms 


The  buried  bulb  doth  know 
The  signals  of  the  year 
And  hails  far  summer  with  his  lifted  spear. 
— COVENTRY  PATMORE. 


Poet's  Narcissus. 


VII 
MARCH 

A  NEIGHBORHOOD  GARDEN  CLUB 

It  is  not  exactly  a  club,  for  it  has  no  written  constitution 
and  no  president.  But  the  children  of  the  neighborhood  have 
worked  together  as  well  as  though  elaborately  organized; 
and  all  members  have  gardens.  One  of  their  teachers  is 
responsible  for  the  Club;  indeed,  she  has  been  the  cause 
of  many  happy  times  and  helpful  movements  in  the  com- 
munity. Several  leaders  among  the  children  of  this  neighbor- 
hood were  her  pupils,  and,  inspired  by  her  encouraging 
enthusiasm,  they  determined  to  make  the  gardens  of  their 
street  as  successful  as  their  school  garden. 

Their  home  street  was  discouraging  in  its  looks  and  repu- 
tation. The  houses  were  small  and  weather-beaten.  The 
fences  were  rickety.  The  outbuildings  were  disreputable. 
The  yards  were  uncared  for  wastes  of  weeds.  It  was  small 
wonder  that  moving  day  came  often,  that  property  there  was 
unprofitable,  and  that  none  was  proud  of  a  home  on  River 
Street. 

Miss  Alden — let  us  call  her — had  commenced  in  mid- 
winter to  arouse  interest  in  home  garden  plans.  Books  and 
catalogues  were  at  hand,  and  every  now  and  then  some  pupil 
put  his  garden  plan  on  the  board  that  it  might  be  discussed 
with  the  class.  But  the  River  Street  children  seemed  hopeless. 
"What  was  the  use?"  they  thought.  So  Miss  Alden  talked 
it  over  with  them  one  night  when  they  had  stopped  to 

137 


A  NEIGHBORHOOD   GARDEN   CLUB 


139 


help  her.  Encouraged  by  her  faith  in  them,  they  were 
aroused  to  share  her  evidently  sincere  belief  that  they  might 
make  their  neighborhood  one  they  need  not  wish  to  disown, 
but  might  claim  with  pride. 

Interest  spread.  The  pennies  and  nickels  that  ordinarily 
went  for  candy  or  moving-picture  shows  were  saved  for 
seeds.  The  River  Street  children 
of  other  rooms  and  grades  occa- 
sionally gathered  in  Miss  Alden's 
room.  Real  work  commenced 
also.  Even  if  the  ground  proved 
frozen  beneath  the  layer  of  mud 
when  early  thaws  stirred  the  blood 
and  impelled  one  to  dig  in  the 
soil,  there  was  rubbish  that  could 
be  cleared  away,  fences  and  sheds 
to  be  repaired.  The  boyish  at- 
tempts at  betterment  aroused  a 
few  fathers  to  help  and  secured 
approval  of  places  for  vegetable 
and  flower  gardens.  Once  started 
in  the  good  work,  several  boys 
would  not  stop  for  returning 
snow-storms ;  they  drew  on  one  of 
their  sleds  boxfuls  of  fertilizer 
from  near-by  stables,  and  piled  it  under  old  sheds  or  covered 
it  with  boards  in  the  centre  of  their  future  garden  plot. 

The  people  living  on  River  Street  were  ready  to  make 
their  neighborhood  as  good  as  any  other,  now  that  they  had 
set  about  it.  Others  had  little  parks.  They  must  have  them. 
There  was  the  triangle  where  the  street  from  up-town  met 


Wild  Cucumber. 


•i4o  THE    SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

the  river  road.  Why  not  trees,  greensward,  and  flowers 
there  for  all  ?  The  Superintendent  of  Streets  promised  Miss 
Alden  and  her  delegation  of  children  that  he  would  approve 
and  aid.  An  agent  for  a  firm  dealing  in  young  trees  agreed 
to  sell  them  three  fine  elms  and  some  shrubs  at  half  price,  and 
the  money  was  raised  in  a  few  days.  Two  carpenters  of  the 
street  helped  the  boys  make  tree  guards  in  advance. 
When  the  street  department  ploughed  up  the  triangle  and 
brought  in  more  soil,  the  boys  were  ready  to  place  the  trees, 
shrubbery,  and  the  sod  borders,  under  the  direction  of  a 
workman.  River  Street  had  a  park. 

The  home  gardens  had  been  advanced  meanwhile.  En- 
thusiasm is  contagious;  the  children  caught  it  from  Miss 
Alden,  their  parents  from  them.  Fathers  recalled  boyhood 
days  in  other  countries,  or  work  years  before  on  New  England 
farms.  They  took  hold  and  showed  how  to  spade  up  the 
soil  and  how  to  work  the  fertilizer  in;  and  when  the  boys  got 
tired  their  fathers  oftes.  kept  their  courage  up  by  working 
with  them  after  supper.  Indeed,  if  any  one  thought  the 
work  more  than  he  had  bargained  for,  he  still  could  not -give 
up  and  let  John  next  door  do  better  than  he.  Mothers 
remembered  the  flowers  they  used  to  love,  and  showed  just 
how  to  plant  the  seeds  when  the  soil  was  ready.  Every  one 
had  a  share  in  the  work. 

Before  enthusiasm  thought  of  waning  the  judges  came. 
When  these  three  gardeners  from  other  neighborhoods 
visited  River  Street  with  Miss  Alden  in  early  May  they  found 
twenty-seven  garden  plots  so  far  advanced  as  to  deserve 
awards.  In  ranking  them,  yard  improvements  were  valued 
as  well  as  gardens,  and  whenever  a  boy  or  girl  was  shown  to 
have  enlisted  younger  children  of  the  family  or  neighborhood 


A  NEIGHBORHOOD   GARDEN   CLUB  141 

in  the  work,  he  was  given  additional  credit  for  such  help  and 
instruction.  Six  workers  were  given  first  rank,  nine  second 
rank,  and  twelve  third  rank.  The  prizes  were  plants  so- 
licited by  Miss  Alden  or  grown  at  the  school  garden.  There 
were  cabbage,  cauliflower,  kohlrabi,  tomato  and  pepper 
seedlings,  and  rhubarb  roots.  There  were  Marshall  straw- 
berry plants  grown  at  school  in  pots  sunk  in  the  soil  beneath 
runners  of  the  preceding  year.  There  were  divisions  and 
young  plants  of  many  sorts  of  hardy  perennials — bleeding- 
heart,  columbine,  larkspur,  and  globe  flower  which  would 
soon  be  in  bloom;  phlox,  helenium,  boltonia,  heliopsis,  and 
other  summer  and  autumn  flowering  hardy  plants.  Then  there 
were  some  flats  of  annual  seedlings — salvia,  asters,  and 
Drummond  Phlox,  given  by  a  florist,  and  a  good  assortment  of 
dahlias  from  amateurs  on  other  streets,  who  were  glad  to  assist 
in  the  improvements  on  River  Street.  They  counted  it  a  good 
insurance  investment,  for  owners  of  gardens  do  not  invade 
gardens  elsewhere,  which  was  once  the  habit  of  those  dwelling 
on  River  Street. 

An  automobile  trip  to  famous  market  gardens  and  fine 
estates  in  a  town  ten  miles  distant  was  planned  as  a  prize 
for  those  who  earned  first  rank.  The  inhabitants  of  River 
Street  often  dodged  automobiles  up-town,  and  dreamed  of  a 
time  when  they  might  own  or  at  least  ride  in  one.  But  every 
first-rank  gardener  seemed  disappointed  at  this  award,  and 
begged  for  plants  instead.  Pressed  for  a  reason,  they  said 
that  while  the  ride  would  be  delightful  it  would  soon  be  but  a 
memory,  while  the  plants  would  grow  on  and  the  hardy 
flowers  would  increase  as  years  went  by.  They  had  the 
gardener's  true  spirit:  they  received  their  plants,  and  also 
the  promise  of  the  ride  and  plants  as  well  if  they  should 


142 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


gain  first  rank  when  the  gardens  were  judged  in  the  middle 
of  June. 

The  full  story  of  River  Street  would  be  unduly  long,  and 
indeed  it  has  yet  to  be  lived  in  large  part.     The  success  of 


Three  Generations  in  the  Home  Garden. 

the  first  season  has  been  surpassed  at-  many  homes,  even 
though  some  have  been  at  times  discouraged.  The  park  is 
gay  with  a  central  bed  of  hardy  flowers,  phlox,  iris,  and 
columbine  surrounding  an  inner  ring  of  larkspur  and  fox- 
glove, and  a  centre  of  tall  perennials.  The  city  has  com- 
menced to  reclaim  and  beautify  the  river  bank.  Landlords 


A  NEIGHBORHOOD   GARDEN   CLUB  143 

have  ventured  to  invest  in  repairs  and  improvements.  A 
few  tenants  have  arranged  to  purchase  their  homes.  The 
corner  saloon  at  the  end  of  the  street  is  not  gaining  busi- 
ness, however.  Some  of  its  formerly  constant  patrons  often 
spend  spring  evenings  with,  their  children  in  the  home  gar- 
den; and  the  benches  on  the  grassy  bank  under  the  willows 
by  the  river,  across  the  road  from  the  little  park,  are  a 
pleasant  place  for  good  fellowship  after  the  toil  of  a  hot 
summer  day. 

There  are  garden  clubs  on  other  streets  of  the  town  now. 
Three  years  ago  Maple  Street  became  the  home  of  a  little 
old  cobbler  and  gardener  who  very  quietly  worked  a  trans- 
formation in  his  neighborhood.  The  children  began  coming 
in  to  see  him  at  work  in  his  garden,  and  were  delighted  to  be 
allowed  to  help  him  in  the  planting  and  weeding.  When 
dividing  hardy  plants  and  resetting  them  in  freshly  fertilized 
soil  in  early  spring,  he  gave  divisions  to  some  of  his  volunteer 
helpers.  Having  seen  how  he  arranged  his  plants,  and  how 
he  prepared  the  soil  and  established  them  in  it,  they  were 
ready  to  grow  successfully  the  plants  given  them.  Later, 
these  children  and  other  boys  and  girls  were  given  the  extra 
seedlings  of  various  annuals  from  the  seed-bed  of  the  old 
gardener,  with  the  understanding  that  future  gifts  depended 
upon  the  care  given  those  first  received. 

When  this  public  benefactor  planted  seeds  of  some  bien- 
nials and  hardy  perennials  in  his  cold-frame,  and  a  little  later 
planted  pansies  and  daisies  there  for  use  the  following  spring, 
the  children  were  so  interested  that  several  got  their  fathers 
to  allow  them  to  establish  cold-frames  at  home.  So  the  in- 
terest grew  until  several  homes  became  centres  for  the  spread 
of  garden  skill  and  for  the  distribution  of  dahlia  tubers, 


i44        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

plants,  and  seedlings.  Whereas  the  flower  gardens  on  Maple 
Street  had  been  formal  plots  of  bedding  plants,  they  now 
acquired  individuality  and  presented  a  most  pleasing  variety. 
Neighborhood  and  home  life  on  the  street  gained  a  new  in- 
terest, and  largely  because  one  little  old  man  who  loved 
flowers  loved  children  also,  and  shared  both  his  knowledge 
and  his  surplus  plants  with  them. 

There  are  many  little  neighborhood  garden  clubs  of  this 
informal  type  in  town  to-day.  Some  of  the  wealthy  citizens, 
public-spirited  men,  heard  of  the  work  on  these  two  streets, 
appreciated  its  possibilities,  and  organized  to  stimulate 
neighborhood  co-operation  in  other  quarters.  Under  their 
leadership  several  hundred  dollars  have  been  subscribed  by 
industrial  corporations,  merchants,  and  citizens,  and  a  sec- 
retary has  been  secured,  who  not  only  knows  both  gardens 
and  children,  but  also  has  faculty  for  securing  the  co-opera- 
tion of  others  in  public  effort.  Prizes  have  been  offered  not 
only  for  individual  gardens,  yard  improvements,  window- 
boxes,  and  the  like;  but  also  for  the  streets  and  neighbor- 
hoods making  the  most  improvement,  having  the  largest  per- 
centage of  well-kept  lawns  with  attractive  gardens. 

Mindful  of  the  fact  that  in  the  crowded  sections  where  garden 
space  was  lacking  and  families  were  poor,  substantial  help 
would  be  needed,  the  association  arranged  to  supply  window 
and  piazza  boxes,  soil,  seeds,  and  plants  at  their  wholesale  cost. 
Quite  naturally,  in  such  a  community,  the  School  Committee 
have  judged  the  time  ripe  to  secure  a  supervisor  of  gardening 
and  industrial  work,  and  have  provided  both  time  in  the 
schedule  of  weekly  studies  and  space  in  or  near  the  school- 
yards for  systematic  instruction  in  gardening,  that  the  en- 
thusiasm of  the  children  for  home  gardens  and  improvements 


STARTING   EARLY  FLOWERS  145 

may  be  placed  on  a  sound  basis  in  every  school  district  and 
neighborhood.  The  full  results  are  yet  to  be  achieved,  but, 
judging  by  experience  in  many  places,  they  will  be  worth  far 
more  than  all  the  money  and  effort  invested. 

STARTING  EARLY  FLOWERS 

Several  of  the  annual  flowers  may  be  started  to  advantage 
in-doors.  Under  the  conditions  of  the  ordinary  school-room 
or  home  it  is  not  practicable  thus  to  start  some  of  the  kinds 
of  plants,  seedlings  of  which  may 
be  grown  in  the  hot-bed  or  green- 
house early,  for  many  plants 
with  the  comparative  lack  of  an 
abundance  of  sunlight  and  air 
commonly  found  in-doors  will 
grow  so  spindly  that  nothing  is 
gained  by  starting  them  there. 
Consequently  it  is  desirable  to 
choose  for  the  in-door  plants 
those  flowers  which  experience 
has  shown  can  thrive  under  such 
comparatively  unfavorable  con- 
ditions. 

One  of  the  crops  with  which  something  may  be  gained 
by  starting  early  inside  is  that  of  the  sweet  peas.  By  plant- 
ing several  three-inch  paper  flower-pots  with  four  or  five 
sweet  pea  seeds  each  in  February  or  early  March  one  can 
get  several  weeks'  root  development  which  will  bring  the 
flowers  out-doors  very  much  earlier  than  usual.  As  soon  in 
spring  as  the  ground  is  in  good  working  condition,  the  young 
seedlings  may  be  planted  directly  from  the  pots  into  the  soil 


French  Marigold. 


146        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

where  they  are  to  grow,  and  they  will  continue  to  develop 
without  interruption.  If  one  desires  very  early  flowers 
one  should,  of  course,  select  for  these  plants  the  earliest 
varieties. 

The  Dwarf  or  French  Marigolds  may  also  be  started  to 
advantage  in-doors.  The  seed  germinates  readily  and  the 
young  seedlings  are  thrifty  and  vigorous  even  where  they 
receive  little  direct  sunshine.  They  develop  very  nicely  in 
two-and-one-half-inch  paper  flower-pots,  and  sometimes  will 

even  come  into  blossom  before 
they  are  planted  out  of  doors. 

It  is  also  worth  while  to  try  in 
the  window-box  the  early  flower- 
ing varieties  of  cosmos.  In  this 
case,  give  the  seedling  plants  from 
the  first  as  much  direct  sunshine 
as  possible.  Something  may  be 
gained  also  in  the  case  of  the 
nasturtium  by  early  planting  if 
the  seedlings  can  be  in  a  window 
where  they  get  much  direct  sun- 
shine. 
.  „  The  bachelor  buttons  and 

Nasturtium  Seedling  in  Paper  Flowerpot. 

calendula  or  Pot  Marigolds   are 

also  easy  to  start  in  the  window-box,  and  will  yield  much 
earlier  blossoms  when  so  treated.  This  is  true  also  of  the 
annual  larkspurs,  a  number  of  attractive  varieties  of  which 
are  now  offered  by  seedsmen.  The  Drummond  Phlox  is 
well  worthy  an  early  start,  as  its  season  of  bloom  will  thus 
begin  out  of  doors  some  time  before  it  can  under  ordinary 
conditions. 


RADISHES  147 

RADISHES 

The  early  radishes  are  perhaps  the  easiest  of  all  crops  to 
grow  in  an  out-door  garden.  They  mature  so  quickly,  re- 
quire so  little  care,  and  furnish  so  large  a  crop  on  a  very 
small  plot  of  ground,  that  they  are  especially  desirable  for 
school  and  home  gardens.  They  may  be  grown  successfully 
where  the  soil  is  only  four  inches  deep,  so  that,  if  nothing  but 
a  box  can  be  found  for  the  garden,  these  vegetables  may  be 
grown  in  it. 

Radishes  are  commonly  divided  into  three  great  classes, 
based  upon  the  shape  of  the  roots.  These  are,  first,  the 
Round  or  Turnip-shaped  Radishes;  second,  the  Oval  or  Olive- 
shaped  Radishes;  and,  third,  the  Conical-cylindrical  or  Long 
Radishes.  The  first  two  kinds  are  now  much  more  com- 
monly grown  than  the  third,  as  they  mature  more  quickly 
and  are  more  satisfactory  for  table  use. 

Radishes  also  are  sometimes  classified  as  to  color,  there 
being  white,  red,  yellow,  purple,  and  black  varieties.  The 
red  or  the  red  and  white  forms  are  much  more  commonly 
grown  than  the  others  and  generally  are  more  desirable. 
There  is  one  exception,  however.  The  Icicle  Radish,  long  in 
form  and  white  in  color,  is  one  of  the  best  for  the  table,  and 
is  easily  grown.  The  flavor  is  mild  and  agreeable,  the  flesh 
crisp,  while  the  roots  remain  tender  for  a  considerable 
period. 

The  small  brown  seeds  of  the  radish  vary  much  in  size. 
Many  careful  tests  have  shown  that  the  larger  seeds  give 
larger,  better,  and  quicker  maturing  roots.  Consequently,  it 
is  worth  while  for  a  careful  gardener  to  sort  out  these  larger 
seeds  for  planting  and  throw  away  the  smaller  ones.  The 


148        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

easiest  way  to  do  this  is  to  sift  the  seeds  through  a  wire 
screen  with  a  mesh  of  two-twenty-fifths  of  an  inch.  This 
will  allow  the  smaller  seeds  to  pass  through  while  the  larger 
seeds  remain  above. 

Radishes  grow  most  quickly  in  a  cool,  moist  soil  of  sandy 
loam.  The  seed  may  be  planted  in  drills  one-half  inch  deep, 
and  in  two  or  three  days  the  two  seed-leaves  or  cotyledons  of 
the  young  seedlings  will  push  upward  through  the  ground. 
They  will  grow  rapidly  and  will  need  only  to  be  weeded  and 
thinned  to  about  an  inch  apart.  If  desired,  they  will  readily 
bear  transplanting  at  about  the  time  that  the  fourth  leaf 
appears.  They  should  be  kept  well  watered,  and  should  be 
pulled  as  soon  as  they  attain  a  good  size  for  table  use.  The 
more  quickly  they  grow,  the  better  they  are,  and  the  less  likely 
they  are  to  be  stringy  and  tough.  If  left  in  the  ground  long, 
they  become  hard  and  unfit  for  use.  Before  many  weeks 
they  will  send  up  blossom  stalks  on  which  the  white  flowers 
will  appear. 

Radishes  are  pre-eminently  a  spring  crop.  The  seed 
should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  good  condition 
to  work,  and  a  succession  of  sowings  should  be  made  every 
ten  days  until  early  in  June.  It  is  hardly  worth  while  to 
attempt  to  grow  them  through  the  summer,  unless  you  have 
a  partially  shaded  place  where  you  can  give  them  plenty  of 
water  during  dry  times.  Another  crop,  however,  may  be 
grown  in  the  fall,  sowing  the  seed  about  the  first  of  Septem- 
ber. Good  strains  of  the  quickest  growing  varieties  will 
readily  mature  in  a  month. 

There  is  a  special  class  of  radishes  that  may  be  grown  in 
summer.  They  grow  to  large  size  without  becoming  tough 
or  going  quickly  to  seed.  A  variety  recently  introduced  from 


RADISHES  149 

Japan  attains  really  enormous  size,  yet  is  fit  for  the  table. 
While  seldom  grown,  they  are  worth  trial. 

For  marketing,  radishes  are  commonly  pulled,  washed, 
and  tied  in  small  bunches,  when  they  make  very  attractive 
objects  to  sell.  Sometimes  the  tops  are  cut  off  and  the  roots 
placed  in  strawberry  boxes  and  thus  sold  by  the  quart. 
Among  the  best  varieties  of  the  round  radishes  are  the  Scarlet 
Short-top,  of  which  each  seedsman  usually  has  some  special 
strain,  Scarlet  Globe,  and  White  Turnip.  Of  the  oval  sorts, 
French  Breakfast  and  Olive-shaped  Scarlet  are  the  two  lead- 
ing varieties.  Of  the  long  kinds,  various  strains  of  the  Long 
Scarlet  are  the  most  popular. 

The  winter  radishes  are  much  more  popular  in  Europe 
than  in  America.  The  seed  is  sown  early  in  summer  and  the 
roots  are  harvested  during  the  latter  part  of  the  season. 
They  are  then  stored  away  for  winter  use  in  the  same  way 
that  turnips  and  similar  crops  are  stored.  The  Rose  China 
Winter  and  the  Black  Spanish  are  leading  varieties  of  this 
type. 

The  most  troublesome  enemy  of  the  radish  is  the  root 
maggot  which  attacks  the  roots  in  much  the  same  way  the 
onion  maggot  attacks  onions.  This  is  a  difficult  pest  to 
contend  against.  It  is  much  more  likely  to  attack  the  later 
radishes  than  the  earlier  ones,  the  first  crops  usually  getting 
through  without  injury.  These  maggots  hatch  from  eggs 
laid  about  the  roots  of  the  plants  by  small  two-winged  flies, 
which  naturally  increase  as  the  season  advances.  In  the  case 
of  a  home  or  school  garden,  it  may  be  worth  while  to  keep 
the  flies  away  by  bending  fine  wire  screening  above  the  rows. 


150  THE   MARCH   CALENDAR 


THE  MARCH   CALENDAR 

START  more  lily-of-the-valley  pips  about  four  weeks  before  Easter  to 

get  them  in  bloom  then. 
BRING  more  bulbs  from  the  basement  room.     The  Poet's  Narcissus 

should  blossom  this  month. 
EXPERIMENT  in  sowing  seed  of  annual  flowers  in-doors  to  see  what  sorts 

it  is  worth  while  to  start  in  this  way. 
Sow,  if  not  already  done  in  February,  in  window-boxes,  flats,  or  paper 

pots,  seeds  of  beet,  carrot,  onion,  tomato,  egg-plant,  and  pepper. 
THIN  seedlings  of  beet,  carrot,  and  onion  so  that  each  plant  shall  have 

a  little  room. 

TRANSPLANT  to  flats  or  flower-pots  seedlings  of  tomato,  egg-plant,  pep- 
per, and  other  crops,  except  onion  and  beet. 

REMOVE  litter  from  border  gardens  soon  after  the  last  snow  has  gone. 
SPADE  or  fork  the  garden  soil  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  and  the  soil  is 

dry  enough  to  work. 

Sow,  as  soon  as  ground  can  be  worked,  a  good  supply  of  sweet  peas. 
Sow,  if  season  permits,  seeds  of  radish,  lettuce,  spinach,  parsley,  and 

the  smooth  hardy  peas. 

PLANT,  if  season  permits,  onion  sets  and  a  few  early  potatoes. 
TILL  and  FERTILIZE  the  rhubarb  and  the  asparagus  beds. 


APRIL 


Easter  Lily. 

"Bear  a  lily  in  thy  hand, 
Gates  of  brass  may  not  withstand 
The  touch  of  that  same  magic  wand." 


Tulips  for  the  Home  Garden 


VIII 

APRIL 

CHILDREN'S  HOME  GARDENS 

The  best  way  to  learn  how  to  plan  and  to  make  a  good 
garden,  for  either  a  child  or  a  " grown-up,"  is  to  see  the  fine 
gardens  others  have  made  and  to  talk  with  their  owners  as 
one  watches  them  at  work.  Come,  then,  and  visit  some  of 
last  year's  gardens  in  a  Massachusetts  city.  First,  Abra- 
ham's garden.  Never  mind  his  last  name,  for  he's  a  real  boy 
and  rather  bashful. 

Little  Abe  was  a  worker  in  the  school  garden,  first  of  all. 
His  class  was  one  of  several  that  had  separate  plots.  Com- 
petition was  keen.  Each  class  was  determined  to  have  the 
best  plot.  Spading  was  not  thorough  enough  for  them; 
they  sifted  the  soil,  removing  all  stones  before  manuring  and 
planting.  Abe's  home  was  in  a  tenement,  writh  one  small 
back  yard  for  several  families.  Even  weeds  found  it  almost 
impossible  to  strike  root  in  the  hard-trodden  ground  of  the 
back  yard,  amid  bricks,  tin  cans,  and  other  rubbish.  But 
Abe  had  some  of  the  dogged  persistence  that  enabled  his  an- 
cestors to  live  in  the  cities  of  Russian  Poland,  and  this 
combined  with  the  enterprise  of  the  New  World.  He  could 
dream  dreams  like  his  ancient  Jewish  ancestors,  too,  and 
where  others  saw  an  ash  heap  against  a  dreary  fence,  he 
beheld  a  clump  of  waving  corn,  rambling  vines,  and  bright 
flowers. 


i54        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

In  September  the  belated  judges  called.  Abe  was  selling 
papers,  but  his  parents  were  at  home.  They  greeted  the 
judges  with  suspicion,  but  when  at  last  they  understood 
their  visitors'  errand  they  were  all  smiles.  They  told  how 
good  the  sweet  corn  tasted,  told,  in  their  broken  English,  all 
the  story  of  the  garden  and  how  proud  they  were  of  their  boy. 
It  was  evident  that  this  little  garden,  the  brave  enterprise  of  an 
immigrant  boy,  had  been  a  power  for  good  in  the  home  and 
neighborhood. 

Alessandro  wanted  a  garden  also.  But  in  the  crowded 
block  of  tenement  homes  where  he  lived  there  was  really  no 
room  for  a  flower  bed.  The  narrow  court  hardly  afforded 
space  for  its  swarm  of  children  to  attempt  play.  So  Aleck 
worked  among  the  vegetables  and  flowers  of  the  school  gar- 
den with  his  principal.  When  it  was  suggested  that  Aleck 
might  have  an  old  nail  keg  for  flowers,  as  a  reward,  he  was 
delighted.  The  coat  of  green  paint  he  applied  made  the 
keg  quite  attractive.  Then  a  half-dozen  plants  were  chosen 
by  the  boy  and  carefully  set  therein,  mostly  tender  peren- 
nials and  pendant  vines.  Aleck  was  a  proud  little  gardener 
that  summer  evening  as  he  bore  the  prize  home  on  the  school 
wheelbarrow. 

When  the  home  gardens  were  judged  again  in  late  Sep- 
tember, the  teacher  who  accompanied  the  board  of  child 
judges  on  their  rounds  found  Aleck's  tiny  keg  garden  flourish- 
ing. Up  the  tenement  stairs  they  mounted,  until,  welcomed 
by  Aleck's  mother,  they  were  ushered  into  the  close  little 
home  room.  There  was  the  keg  green  with  foliage,  gay  with 
a  few  flowers,  placed  for  the  time  just  below  the  crucifix. 
For  the  leaves  and  blossoms  recalled  to  the  parents  the  sunny, 
flowery  slopes  of  Italy  and  their  terraced  gardens,  and  this 


15$        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

bit  of  nature  seemed  appropriately  placed  beneath  the  carv- 
ing that  signified  the  goodness  of  nature's  God.  The  follow- 
ing spring  Alessandro's  father  was  one  of  several  who  rented 
the  only  back  yard  of  the  street  and  turned  it  into  a  group  of 
thrifty  kitchen  gardens.  Thus  a  little  garden,  if  merely  a 
keg,  may  produce  a  bountiful  crop  of  vigorous  self-sown 
seedlings. 

Herman  was  better  situated.  His  father  had  been  skilled 
in  gardening  in  Germany,  and  was  thrifty  enough  to  rent  a 
cottage  with  an  ample  back  yard.  Herman  and  his  sister  took 
great  pride  in  their  home,  and  under  their  father's  instruction 
spent  many  hours  in  work  about  it,  so  that  they  well  deserved 
to  win  the  first  prize  of  ten  dollars  for  home  ground  improve- 
ment. The  shrubs  were  pruned  and  fertilized.  The  lawn 
was  renewed  and  kept  trim.  The  walks  were  edged  and 
raked.  Flowers  were  placed  in  border  beds  and  beside  the 
porch.  In  the  rear  there  was  row  after  row  of  vegetables 
within  the  border  of  small  fruit.  Not  only  were  there  peas, 
beans,  corn,  and  the  like,  but  celeriac,  salsify,  winter  radishes, 
cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts,  kale,  endive — familiar  enough 
in  Germany,  but  most  interesting  to  the  neighbors  here  in 
America,  who  came  to  see  and  inquire,  and  at  times  to  imi- 
tate. 

Arthur's  large  back  yard  garden  is  a  wonderful  surprise  to 
one  who  knew  this  same  yard  last  year — a  waste  of  dump 
heaps  overgrown  by  a  tangle  of  burdock  and  jimson  weed. 
Arthur  was  the  leading  spirit  in  transforming  this  forbidding 
tract  of  street  sweepings  into  an  orderly  array  of  plots  for 
flowers  and  vegetables,  with  trim  walks  sloping  down  to  the 
brook  in  the  rear.  This  large  family  of  French-Canadian 
boys  and  girls  had  put  the  same  energy  into  clearing  away  a 


CHILDREN'S   HOME   GARDENS  157 

long-established  forest  of  weeds  that  their  ancestors  had  used 
in  replacing  the  primeval  forests  of  spruce  and  pine  in  Can- 
ada with  thrifty  habitant  homes  and  fields. 

One  might  thus  call  the  roll  of  races  that  have  lately  come 
to  our  lands  and  its  cities.  The  descendants  of  the  earlier 
comers  are  often  in  the  lead  in  garden  work,  however.  Their 
opportunities  are  usually  the  best.  There  is  Albert,  for  ex- 
ample. He  lives  close  to  the  boulevard  that  runs  along  the 
sea-wall.  His  parents  have  ample  means  and  spacious  home 
grounds — lawns  and  shrubbery.  Albert  caught  the  love  for 
flowers  at  school,  even  as  Abe  and  Alessandro  did.  His  father 
granted  him  generous  garden  space.  His  uncle,  fortunately, 
could  give  him  the  advice  he  needed.  He  himself  gave  the 
unflagging  zeal  to  the  accomplishment  of  ambitious  plans 
that  was  the  chief  essential  to  their  success. 

A  plot  fifty  feet  by  ten  was  ploughed,  then  spaded,  fertil- 
ized, and  worked  into  shape  by  Albert  himself.  In  the 
early  spring  mornings  he  was  at  work;  in  the  evenings  he 
enlisted  his  uncle  to  help  plan  the  next  day's  advance.  Hav- 
ing abundance  of  pocket  money,  he  purchased  such  large 
clumps  of  hardy  perennials  as  the  school  garden  could  spare 
for  sale — bleeding-heart,  larkspur  and  iris,  phlox  and  cal- 
liopsis.  He  had  to  enlist  his  comrades  in  carting  the  heavy 
clumps  home.  There  he  carefully  set  them  out,  and,  though 
in  full  foliage,  without  wilting,  for  he  had  eased  them  up  and 
down  the  curb  stones,  so  gently  that  the  masses  of  earth  and 
roots  remained  unbroken.  Then  he  studied  the  seed  cata- 
logues evenings  and  planned  to  grow  several  dozen  sorts  of 
annual  flowers,  with  dahlias  and  gladioli  at  the  back  of  the 
bed.  Everything  prospered  because  he  added  his  own  devo- 
tion and  pluck  to  every  dime  and  dollar  he  spent. 


158 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


When  the  city  horticultural  society  gave  its  September 
exhibition,  Albert's  display  .took  first  prize  for  flowers  from 
a  child's  garden,  just  as  Herman's  ranked  the  highest  for 
vegetables.  Albert's  flowers  were  carefully  selected,  and 


A  Good  Home  Garden. 

reached  the  hall  fresh  and  perfect.  Each  sort  was  in  its 
separate  bottle,  and  marked  by  labels  prepared  neatly  in 
advance.  Many  visitors  could  hardly  believe  that  a  boy  had 
grown  so  varied  a  collection  of  flowers  in  his  first  year  of 
garden  work.  Many  another  boy  resolved  to  have  a  garden 
the  following  year. 


THE   SPRING  AWAKENING  159 

If  time  permitted,  we  might  visit  such  gardens  as  these 
day  after  day;  some  pathetic,  some  humorous,  most  inspiring, 
all  worth  the  while.  There  are  gardens  of  girls  as  well  as 
of  boys;  girls  in  the  slums  who  can  hardly  afford  a  couple  of 
penny  packets  of  seeds,  and  girls  who  are  free  to  delight  in 
lilies  and  other  bulbs  of  high  cost  in  their  own  home  plots. 
Enough  have  been  seen  here,  however,  to  impress  the  general 
conclusion  that  in  home  gardening,  as  in  all  life,  where  there's 
a  will  there's  a  way.  Every  youth  must  study  his  own  home 
conditions  and  resources,  and  after  choosing  the  plan  of  work 
most  practicable  for  him,  then  persist  with  this  plan  until 
it  is  realized. 

THE  SPRING  AWAKENING 

No  season  is  so  welcome  to  the  owner  of  a  garden  as  is  the 
spring.  The  disappearance  of  the  snow,  the  coming  of  the 
birds,  the  tasselling  of  the  alders  are  doubly  precious,  because 
they  foretell  that  thawing  of  the  ground  which  shall  enable 
us  once  more  to  delve  in  it  for  happiness  and  profit.  It  is 
like  a  perpetual  renewing  of  youth,  for  the  garden  promises 
are  always  fair  to  think  upon,  and  in  the  seed  we  plant  we 
always  see  a  finer  harvest  than  in  the  crop  we  gather.  Yet, 
herein  lies  much  of  the  delight  of  gardening;  it  gives  us  op- 
portunity to  hope  for  the  fruition  of  things  unseen.  For  hope 
is  life,  and  when  we  can  no  longer  hope,  life  is  no  longer 
worth  the  living. 

The  wise  gardener  studies  his  conditions  to  learn  what 
crops  may  be  planted  to  advantage  as  soon  as  the  soil  can  be 
worked,  thus  prolonging  his  season  of  out-door  activity,  and 
perhaps  his  season  of  crop  gathering.  It  is  a  time-honored 
saying  that  when  the  bluebirds  come  one  should  begin  to 


i6o 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


think  of  planting  sweet  peas;  and  the  smooth  "sour  peas/' 
as  some  one  called  the  garden  peas  to  distinguish  them  from 
the  flowering  sorts,  may  be  planted  at  the  same  time.  Not 
many,  however,  for  a  little  later  one  may  plant  the  new 
variety  called  Gradus  or  Prosperity  Pea,  which  is  nearly  as 
early  as  the  smooth  sorts,  and  of  very  much  better  quality. 

The  chief  value  of  Alaska  and  similar 

smooth  varieties  is  to  enable  you  to 
get  a  mess  of  home-grown  peas  for 
dinner  a  few  days  earlier  than  your 
neighbor,  and  thus  be  able  to  acquire 
a  local  reputation  as  a  skilful  gardener. 

There  are  other  things  also  to  plant 
early.  One  of  the  most  delicious 
vegetables,  when  home-grown  and 
gathered  fresh,  is  spinach,  but  it  is 
often  sadly  neglected.  Plant  the  seed 
as  early  as  the  ground  can  be  worked, 
in  rows  a  foot  apart,  sowing  the  seed 
fairly  thickly  in  the  row.  It  will 
come  up  early,  and  may  be  gathered  in  plenty  of  time  for 
some  other  crop  to  be  planted.  This  first  crop  also  will 
escape  the  attack  of  the  leaf-miner,  a  vexatious  pest  that  is 
very  likely  to  spoil  later  crops.  We  have  had  best  success 
with  Victoria  Spinach  for  spring  planting.  Buy  the  seed, 
not  by  the  packet,  but  by  the  ounce  or  pound. 

Carrots  also  may  be  planted  early  to  give  a  supply  for 
kitchen  use  in  summer.  Such  varieties  as  Early  Chantenay 
or  Earliest  Short  Horn  are  best  for  the  first  sowing.  Parsnip 
seed  may  also  be  sown  very  early,  choosing  Early  Round 
for  the  summer  crop.  Salsify,  or  vegetable  oyster,  needs 


Parsnip  Seedling. 


PLANTING   HARDY  ANNUALS  161 

to  get  an  early  start,  and  Sandwich  Island  mammoth  is  the 
best  variety  to  plant. 

Lettuce  and  radishes  are  likely  to  be  the  first-gathered 
" fruits"  of  the  spring  sowings.  They  may  be  planted  when 
the  ground  is  in  good  working  condition,  choosing  of  each  the 
quickest  maturing  varieties.  The  early  strains  of  French 
Breakfast  Radishes  are  excellent,  as  are  also  the  Olive-shaped 
Scarlet,  the  White  Icicle  Radish,  and  other  similar  sorts.  The 
onion  sets  for  table  onions  may  be  planted  at  the  same  time 
as  the  lettuce  and  radish,  and  these  will  yield  quick  returns. 
Onion  seed  for  the  later  crop  should  also  be  planted  early; 
and  beet  seed  should  get  an  early  start  to  make  rapid  growth 
and  be  ready  for  the  table  early. 

PLANTING  HARDY  ANNUALS 

As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  it  is  time  to  begin 
work  in  the  out-door  garden.  Some  of  the  annual  flowers 
and  many  of  the  perennials  do  best  when  they  are  planted 
very  early;  consequently,  it  is  desirable  that  the  ground  should 
be  thoroughly  prepared  for  their  reception  as  early  in  the 
season  as  possible.  In  such  preparation  three  things  are 
necessary:  the  eradication  of  witch-grass  or  other  perennial 
weeds  that  are  likely  to  take  possession  of  the  soil;  the  en- 
richment of  the  soil  with  some  fertilizer  that  will  enable  it 
to  furnish  plant  food  in  abundance  and  in  easily  available 
form;  and  such  tillage  as  shall  render  the  soil  mellow  and 
easily  worked,  so  that  it  will  take  in  rainfall  readily  and  will 
be  in  good  condition  for  penetration  by  the  delicate  roots  of 
the  growing  plants. 

The  modern  gardener  is  no  longer  content  with  a  bit  of 
ground  in  a  geometrical  design  in  the  midst  of  a  lawn,  for 


162        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

growing  flowers.  He  realizes  that  generally  such  a  flower 
garden  is  ineffective  and  is  likely  to  spoil  the  beauty  of  the 
lawn  as  well.  He  chooses  instead  the  borders  of  his  grounds, 
where  he  can  plant  to  advantage  a  variety  of  hardy  perennials, 
as  well  as  many  annuals.  And  for  such  of  the  annuals  as  he 
desires  especially  for  cut  flowers,  he  chooses  some  part  of  the 
vegetable  garden,  or  else  a  bit  of  ground  behind  the  house 
where  such  plants  can  be  grown  in  rows,  so  that  they  are 
easily  tilled  and  supply  the  greatest  number  of  flowers  for 
the  smallest  amount  of  care. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  soil  for  the  annual  flowers  it  is 
extremely  desirable  that  all  traces  of  witch-grass  should  be 
dug  out  with  greatest  thoroughness.  The  fact  that  a  bit  of 
ground  is  completely  infested  with  this  plant  need  not  deter 
one  from  utilizing  it  for  growing  flowers,  for  it  is  easily  pos- 
sible to  eradicate  the  stems  and  roots  by  a  thoroughgoing 
treatment  with  a  digging  fork,  and  especially  with  the  im- 
plement commonly  called  a  potato-digger,  which  serves  ad- 
mirably for  pulling  out  the  stems.  Such  infested  ground 
should  not  be  dug  up  with  a  hoe,  or  even  with  a  spade. 
It  is  better  to  dig  it  up  first  with  a  tined  digging  fork  and 
then  to  go  over  it  thoroughly  either  with  the  fork  or  a  potato- 
digger,  pulling  out  all  traces  of  underground  stems,  placing 
them  in  loose  piles  to  dry,  and  then  burning  them,  being  very 
careful  also,  as  a  New  England  farmer  once  said,  where  you 
put  the  ashes. 

In  the  way  of  fertilizers  there  is  nothing  so  generally  useful 
as  thoroughly  decomposed  barn-yard  manure,  as  this  not 
only  adds  all  the  elements  of  fertility,  but  helps  in  the  me- 
chanical composition  of  the  soil,  and  probably  also  in  sup- 
plying and  furnishing  the  desired  conditions  for  development 


PLANTING   HARDY  ANNUALS  163 

of  the  bacteria  which  of  late  have  been  found  to  play  so  im- 
portant a  part  in  the  growth  of  plants.  The  commercial 
fertilizers,  however,  are  also  very  useful,  especially  those 


Getting   the   Garden    Ready. 

which  have  a  large  quantity  of  fertilizing  material  available 
over  a  considerable  period  of  time. 

In  the  matter  of  tillage  the  amateur  gardener  should  see 
that  the  ground  is  in  the  best  possible  mechanical  condition 
before  it  is  planted.  The  soil  which  has  been  dug  over  to 
get  out  the  witch-grass  will  be  pretty  certain  to  be  fine 
enough.  Other  soils  should  be  worked  over  with  a  digging- 


1 64        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

fork  and  raked  until  they  are  free  from  stones  and  lumps 
of  earth. 

In  the  cases  of  the  hardy  annuals  much  better  results  are 
obtained  by  planting  early,  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  good 
workable  condition.  One  of  the  plants  in  which  this  pre- 
caution is  of  special  importance  is  the  poppy.  A  very  com- 
mon reason  for  failure  in  poppy  culture  is  that  of  planting 
too  late  in  the  season.  This  is  especially  likely  to  be  true  in 
gardens  where  one  must  depend  upon  nature  for  rainfall  to 
keep  the  soil  moist.  The  seeds  are  so  small  that  the  tiny 
plants  quickly  wither  under  adverse  conditions.  The  remedy 
for  this  is  to  sow  the  seed  early  when  there  is  an  abundance 
of  rain  and  when  the  sun's  rays  are  not  so  parching  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil.  In  the  case  of  a  later  planting  it  will 
often  be  necessary  to  water  the  soil  artificially. 

Poppy  seeds  are  so  tiny  that  they  require  some  care  in 
planting.  One  is  sure  to  sow  them  more  thickly  than  is 
desirable  unless  the  seed  is  first  mixed  with  dry  sand  or 
corn-meal,  and  it  must  be  covered  very  lightly.  Make  a 
tiny  furrow  and  scatter  the  seed  in  it,  then  sprinkle  it  with  a 
watering-pot.  This  will  generally  cover  the  seeds  to  a 
sufficient  depth.  When  the  plants  are  up,  thin  them  from 
time  to  time  until  there  is  room  for  each  one  to  develop 
normally. 

The  garden  portulaca,  or  sun  plant,  is  a  beautiful  flower 
of  various  colors,  which  is  of  special  value  as  a  bedding  plant 
in  hot,  dry  situations  where  few  flowering  plants  can  be  in- 
duced to  grow.  It  is  very  easy  to  cultivate,  and  it  has  lately 
been  found  that  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  poppy  bed  and 
the  young  seedlings  allowed  to  develop  in  the  shade  of  the 
poppies  until  after  the  latter  have  gone  by.  After  the  poppies 


PLANTING   HARDY  ANNUALS 


165 


are  pulled  up  the  portulaca  will  then  occupy  the  bed  for  the 
remainder  of  the  season. 

One  of  the  best  hardy  annuals  for  use  along  the  border  of 
the  flower  garden  is  the  candytuft.  This  plant  has  been  in 
cultivation  for  a  long  while,  and  is  considered  indispensable 
by  every  florist  and  gardener.  While  the  varieties  most  com- 
monly grown  are  white,  there  are 
other  sorts  having  carmine,  crim- 
son, and  lavender  flowers.  The 
easiest  way  to  grow  the  candytuft 
is  to  sow  the  seed  where  the  flowers 
are  to  -blossom,  thinning  as  the 
plants  develop.  This  is  one  of  the 
best  flowers  to  use  in  home  or 
school  gardens.  Sweet  alyssum 
is  another  low  border  plant  of 
easy  culture. 

One  of  the  most  satisfactory 
hardy  annuals  for  flower  beds  is 
the  Drummond  Phlox.  This 
plant  has  the  advantage  of  being 
very  easy  to  grow  and  of  showing 

a  great  variety  of  beautiful  colors.  The  so-called  dwarf  vari- 
eties which  reach  a  height  of  eight  or  ten  inches  are  generally 
to  be  preferred  to  the  taller  sorts.  They  bloom  for  a  long 
period  when  the  seeds  are  sown  out-doors  early  in  May.  They 
should  be  thinned  or  transplanted  to  about  eight  inches  apart. 

The  California  Poppy  is  another  very  desirable  hardy 
annual,  which  may  be  sown  as  soon  in  spring  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked.  The  gray-green  foliage  is  very  attractive 
in  itself  and  serves  as  a  background  for  the  beautiful  blos- 


Drummond   Phlox. 


i66 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


soms,  commonly  yellow  in  color,  although  recently  there  have 
been  placed  upon  the  market  attractive  varieties  of  red  and 
striped  flowers. 

There   are   many  other  hardy   annuals   with   which   the 
young  gardener  should  become  familiar  as  rapidly  as  possible. 


Blossoms  of  Coreopsis. 


Among  the  more  important  are  the  French  and  the  African 
Marigolds,  the  calliopsis  or  coreopsis,  the  annual  chrys- 
anthemums, the  nemophila,  the  pansy,  and  the  zinnia. 


THE  APRIL  CALENDAR 

Out-doors 


Sow  in  a  sheltered  seed-bed  in  the  garden  the  seed  of  such  hardy 

annuals  as  are  to  be  transplanted. 
Sow  seed  of  hardy  annuals  that  are  not  to  be  transplanted,  in  the  position 

where  they  are  to  grow:   California  Poppy,  poppies,  sweet  peas. 
Sow  the  hardy  root-crops — beet,  carrot,  parsnip,  radish,  salsify,  turnip; 


THE  APRIL  CALENDAR 


167 


the  hardy  bulb  crops — leek,  onion;  the  hardy  cole  crops— Brussels 
sprouts,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  kohlrabi,  kale;  the  hardy  pot  herb 
and  salad  crops — dandelion,  spinach,  celery,  chard,  lettuce, 
parsley;  the  smooth  hardy  peas  of  the  pulse  crop  group  and  the 
early  hardy  varieties  of  sweet  corn. 

PLANT  early  varities  of  potatoes,  and  onion  sets  for  bunch  onions. 

TRANSPLANT  early  cabbage  plants  from  cold-frames  and  young  onion 
seedlings  from  seed  boxes. 

HARDEN  OFF  toward  the  end  of  the  month  early  tomato  plants  by 
placing  them  on  a  sheltered  porch  or  some  place  where  they  can 
be  protected  at  night. 


MAY 


Trumpet  Daffodils. 

I  wandered  lonely  as  a  cloud 

That  floats  on  high  o'er  vales  and  hills, 

When  all  at  once  I  saw  a  crowd, 

A  host  of  golden  daffodils, 

Beside  the  lake,  beneath  the  trees, 

Fluttering  and  dancing  in  the  breeze. 

—WILLIAM  WORDSWORTH. 


Peonies  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar. 


IX 

MAY 
HARDY  PERENNIALS 

The  wise  gardener  will  set  aside  a  part  of  his  border  garden 
for  a  bed'  for  the  hardy  perennials — those  beautiful  flowering 
plants  which  once  established  will  remain  from  year  to  year. 
In  the  preparation  of  the  bed  it  is  well  worth  while  to  go  to 
considerable  trouble  in  order  to  get  the  best  conditions 
for  the  raising  of  flowers  through  many  seasons.  If  the 
soil  can  be  taken  out  to  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches  to  two 
feet  and  the  bottom  filled  in  with  a  well  mixed  combination 
of  thoroughly  decomposed  barn-yard  fertilizer  and  soil,  it 
will  prove  a  lasting  benefit  to  the  plants.  If  this  cannot  be 
done,  a  large  amount  of  such  fertilizer  should  be  spaded  into 
the  soil. 

There  are  so  many  beautiful  flowers  on  the  list  of  hardy 
perennials  that  the  average  gardener  cannot  hope  to  grow 
them  all.  It  is  better  to  choose  those  types  of  flowers  that 
will  go  well  together.  Of  course,  the  tallest  growing  sorts 
will  be  planted  in  the  background  and  the  lower  in  the  fore- 
ground, and  some  wise  selections  will  be  worth  while  in  order 
that  the  garden  may  have  some  type  of  flower  in  blossom 
throughout  the  season.  It  is  more  desirable  to  plant  generous 
clumps  of  every  sort  chosen  than  to  dot  the  garden  with 
single  plants  of  many  different  kinds. 

In  the  case  of  the  hardy  perennials,  as  in  the  case  of  the 

annuals   and   most  other  flowers,  there  is  a  very   marked 

171 


172 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


educational  value  in  making,  for  a  time  at  least,  a  specialty 
of  certain  favorite  flowers  grown  in  named  varieties  of  the 
principal  types  of  each,  thereby  becoming  familiar  with  their 
appearance  and  habits  of  growth.  One  who  would  thus 

make  a  specialty  of  the  Perennial 
Phlox,  the  columbine,  the  iris, 
the  larkspurs,  the  campanulas, 
or  the  peony  would  soon  acquire 
a  special  knowledge  which  would 
add  greatly  to  his  interest  in 
gardening. 

Most  of  the  hardy  perennials 
start  their  growth  early  in  the 
season,  and  consequently  it  is  de- 
sirable to  plant  them  as  soon  in 
spring  as  the  ground  can  be  put 
thoroughly  in  order.  Those 
which  bloom  early,  like  peonies, 
however,  are  best  divided  and 
transplanted  in  September,  for 
this  allows  them  to  become  well 
established  before  winter,  while 
abundant  new  roots  are  thus  de- 
veloped to  support  large  blos- 
soms the  following  spring. 

The  Perennial  Phloxes  are  among  the  most  indispensable 
of  the  hardy  border  plants  for  a  home  garden.  Coming  into 
bloom  rather  early  in  summer,  they  continue  to  make  a 
beautiful  display  until  autumn,  and  may  be  had  in  a  great 
variety  of  colors,  so  that  one  can  suit  almost  any  taste  in 
their  selection.  They  are  easy  to  grow  and  the  plants  are  in- 


Percnnial  Phlox. 


HARDY  PERENNIALS 


173 


expensive.  Their  period  of  bloom  may  be  lengthened  by 
cutting  off  the  terminal  buds  of  some  of  the  stalks  early  in  the 
season.  This  will  cause  numerous  side  branches  to  be 
thrown  up,  and  these 
will  bear  a  profusion  of 
blossoms  throughout  the 
later  weeks  of  summer. 
The  slips  removed  in  top- 
ping the  plants  should 
be  rooted  in  sand,  then 
established  as  new  plants. 

The  irises  are  exceed- 
ingly attractive  as  border 
plants.  The  splendid 
Japanese  Iris  is  perhaps 
the  most  decorative  of  all 
our  cultivated  flowers, 
while  the  German  Iris 
bears  blossoms  of  exceed- 
ing beauty.  The  Siberian 
Iris  is  very  effective  when 
out-doors  or  in  the  house, 
on  account  of  the  long 
leaves  and  flower  stalks 
and  the  attractive  blue  or 
white  blossoms.  There  are  also  a  number  of  kinds  of  iris 
suitable  for  the  front  of  the  border,  on  account  of  their  shorter 
leaves  and  flower  stalks. 

The  trollius,  or  globe  flower,  is  a  spring  flowering,  hardy 
perennial  which  is  not  nearly  so  much  grown  as  its  beauty 
deserves.  The  blossoms  look  like  great  double  buttercups 


The  Trollius  or  Globe  Flower. 


174       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

and  exhibit  some  of  the  most  brilliant  tones  of  yellow  to  be 
found  in  the  plant  world.  The  foliage  is  finely  cut  and  of  a 
beautiful  yellow  green.  The  plant  is  attractive  either  in  the 
hardy  border  or  for  use  in  in-door  decoration,  and  in  May 
adds  a  great  deal  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  flower  border. 

The  columbines  form  another  group  of  attractive  border 
plants  which  are  well  worth  growing.  The  native  wild 
columbine  is  one  of  the  best  forms,  but  there  are  many 
other  single  sorts  of  equal  beauty.  These  plants  are  easily 
raised  from  seed. 

No  border  garden  is  complete  during  early  summer  which 
does  not  show  a  few  varieties  of  the  beautiful  peonies  with 
their  wonderful  rose-like  blossoms.  These  display  some  of 
the  most  charming  and  delightful  flower  tints  to  be  found  in 
the  world  of  flowers.  One  should  be  sure  to  plant  some  at 
least  of  the  light-colored  single  peonies  and  learn  to  dis- 
criminate between  the  simple  beauty  which  they  display  and 
the  more  fulsome  beauty  shown  by  the  ordinary  double 
peonies. 

The  golden  glow  is  a  hardy  perennial  which  is  becoming 
so  generally  grown  that  it  is  scarcely  advisable  to  make  room 
for  it  in  an  ordinary  border  garden.  It  is  a  particularly 
desirable  plant  with  which  to  fill  in  waste  spaces  or  to  be 
grown  by  people  who  are  not  willing  to  give  any  special  care 
to  the  flower  garden.  It  spreads  rapidly  and  soon  overruns 
the  other  flowers;  consequently,  it  had  better  be  given  a 
corner  by  itself  where  it  will  not  have  anything  to  interfere 
with  its  development.  While  it  makes  a  good  showing  of 
color  and  is  effective  at  a  distance,  it  has  not  the  elements  of 
beauty  that  will  bear  careful  analysis,  and  it  is  one  of  the 
least  desirable  for  cut  flowers  of  all  the  hardy  perennials. 


CLIMBING  VINES  175 

Many  of  the  hardy  perennials  may  be  grown  from  seed, 
although,  as  a  rule,  they  do  not  blossom  until  the  second 
season.  This  commonly  is  the  cheapest  way,  however,  to 
get  a  supply  of  plants,  and  it  is  worth  while  to  raise  them  in 
this  manner,  especially  where  money  is  not  available  to  buy 
well  developed  plants  for  starting  the  border  garden.  The 
plants  themselves  should  be  purchased  in  the  case  of  phlox, 
iris,  and  any  sorts  which,  while  multiplied  easily  by  division, 
cannot  be  obtained  in  choice  varieties  from  seed. 

CLIMBING  VINES 

The  climbing  vines  serve  a  particularly  useful  purpose  in 
covering  with  a  beautiful  mass  of  leaves  and  flowers,  fences, 
porches,  arbors,  and  the  sides  of  buildings.  Nearly  all  re- 
quire some  support  which  will  enable  them  to  get  up  in  the 
world  by  means  of  tendrils  or  leaf -stalks  or  twining  stems. 
Many  of  the  best  climbing  plants  are  annual  vines.  And 
these  are  particularly  useful  on  account  of  their  cheapness 
and  their  rapidity  of  growth.  The  seeds  may  be  planted  in 
the  spring  with  the  expectation  that  by  the  middle  of  summer 
a  growth  of  many  feet  will  have  been  made,  and  that  the 
plants  will  retain  their  beauty  through  the  remainder  of  the 
season. 

The  typical  morning-glories  belong  to  the  great  genus 
Ipomoea,  which  includes  also  the  moon-flower  and  cypress 
vine.  In  some  seed  catalogues  various  sorts  of  bind  weeds 
of  the  genus  Convolvulus  are  also  called  morning-glories. 
Some  of  the  typical  morning-glories  of  the  former  group 
are  annuals,  while  others  are  perennials.  The  largest  and 
most  beautiful  sorts  are  the  Japanese  or  Imperial  Morning- 
glories  which  were  introduced  from  Japan  a  few  years  ago, 


i76       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

and  have  become  very  popular  on  account  of  their  ease  of 
culture  and  the  size  and  beauty  of  the  blossoms.  These  vary 
greatly  in  color  and  form  and  are  among  the  most  gorgeous 
of  all  garden  flowers. 

The  morning-glories  are  of  easiest  culture,  thriving  even 
under  adverse  conditions  and  growing  luxuriantly  in  favor- 
able situations.  The  outer  covering  of  the  seed  is  very  hard, 
and  the  most  common  reason  for  failure  with  these  flowers  is 
due  to  this  fact.  In  order  to  insure  the  germination  of  the 
seed  a  corner  of  the  seed-coat  should  be  notched  with  a  file, 
so  that  the  moisture  from  the  soil  may  have  access  to  the 
interior  and  enable  the  miniature  seedling  to  break  through. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  blossom,  or, 
perhaps  better,  on  account  of  the  uncertainty  in  germination, 
they  may  be  planted  two  or  three  inches  apart  in  a  drill  and 
the  seedlings  transplanted  to  the  permanent  situation  when 
the  seed-leaves  are  well  developed.  They  will  bear  this 
transplanting  readily,  and  one  is  thus  more  likely  to  get  an 
even  stand  of  plants. 

These  morning-glories,  especially  the  Japanese  sorts,  may 
very  well  be  started  early  in-doors  in  small  paper  pots,  and 
transplanted  out  of  doors  when  danger  from  frost  is  past. 
The  Japanese  varieties  will  come  into  blossom  in  six  or  eight 
weeks  after  the  seed  is  planted. 

The  moon-flower  is  deservedly  popular  as  a  climbing 
plant,  giving  a  luxuriant  growth  of  foliage  and  large  beautiful 
flowers  that  open  toward  evening.  Otherwise  it  is  very 
similar  to  the  better  sorts  of  morning-glories,  and  requires 
much  the  same  treatment.  It  is  especially  essential  that  the 
seeds  be  notched  before  planting,  in  order  that  they  may 
germinate  successfully. 


CLIMBING  VINES  177 

The  cypress  vine  is  a  well-known  plant  of  the  morning- 
glory  group,  which  is  sometimes  called  the  Indian  Pink.  Its 
original  home  was  in  tropical  America,  and  it  has  been  quite 
generally  naturalized  in  the  Southern  States,  where  the  wild 
plants  blossom  from  July  to  October.  On  account  of  its 
rapid  growth  and  attractive  color  it  is  useful  as  a  climbing 
plant  in  many  sorts  of  situations.  The  common  form  has 
scarlet  flowers,  but  there  is  also  a  white-flowered  variety. 

The  wild  cucumber  is  one  of  the  most  popular  annual 
vines,  being  extremely  useful  on  account  of  the  rapidity  with 
which  it  grows  and  the  beautiful  effect  produced  by  its  leaves, 
stems,  and  blossoms.  When  once  established,  it  will  re-seed 
itself  each  year,  a  large  number  of  plants  coming  up  from  the 
seed  produced  in  great  abundance  in  the  curious  fruit  pods 
that  mature  during  the  summer  and  autumn.  It  is  better  to 
leave  the  seeds  out  of  doors  on  the  ground  where  they 
are  scattered  than  to  bring  them  in-doors  through  the 
winter,  as  they  thus  seem  to  produce  stronger  and  healthier 
plants.  If  seeds  are  purchased,  they  should  be  soaked  in 
water  for  several  hours  before  planting;  and  it  is  better  to 
plant  with  the  eye  of  the  seed  downward. 

As  the  wild  cucumber  climbs  by  means  of  numerous 
tendrils  which  reach  out  in  all  directions,  it  will  take  advan- 
tage of  almost  any  support  that  may  be  provided.  It  makes 
a  particularly  effective  growth  when  it  is  planted  beside  un- 
sightly dirt  piles  or  rubbish  heaps,  which  it  covers  and  trans- 
forms into  beauty.  It  also  grows  effectively  upon  wire 
netting  and  is  a  desirable  plant  to  use  along  wire  backstops 
for  tennis  courts  and  similar  purposes.  The  leaves,  tendrils, 
and  fruits  are  particularly  desirable  as  objects  for  drawing. 
The  plant  is  also  called  the  wild  balsam  apple. 


178        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

The  plant  from  tropical  America  which  is  known  in  the 
catalogues  as  Cobcea  scandens  is  one  of  the  best  climbing  vines 
available  to  American  gardeners.  In  its  native  home  it  is  a 
perennial,  but  it  is  so  tender  that  with  us  it  is  to  be  treated 
as  an  annual.  The  compound  leaves  have  commonly  four- 
stalked  leaflets,  with  the  terminal  leaflet  transformed  into  a 
tendril  by  means  of  which  the  plant  supports  itself  as  it 
climbs.  The  bell-shaped  flowers  often  have  a  diameter  of 
one  and  one-half  inches,  and  are  either  white  or  purplish  in 
color.  The  projecting  saucer-like  calyx  around  the  base  of 
the  flower  serves  to  give  the  plant  its  common  name. 

This  coboea  is  easily  grown  from  seed,  which  should  be 
planted  edge  downward  that  it  may  come  up  more  easily, 
and  the  seed  should  be  covered  very  slightly.  The  young 
plant  grows  rapidly  and  in  a  single  season  will  reach  a  height 
of  ten  to  twenty  feet,  with  a  varied  profusion  of  handsome 
flowers.  Sometimes  other  leaflets  besides  the  terminal  one 
will  show  an  interesting  tendency  to  develop  tendrils. 

There  are  many  hardy  vines  that  are  distinctly  desirable, 
and  which  may  be  purchased  reasonably  from  dealers  in 
plants  at  prices  given  in  all  the  large  seed  catalogues.  Some 
may  be  easily  raised  from  seed  in  the  school  garden,  for 
example,  the  Japanese  Clematis — Paniculate — whose  glossy 
foliage  is  hidden  in  late  summer  by  its  profusion  of  starry 
white  flowers.  The  Japanese,  or  Boston  Ivy  is  used  to  cover 
the  glaring  brick  walls  of  many  city  schools  with  a  curtain  of 
waving  green.  Such  a  transformation  is  as  desirable  as  the 
change  from  a  yard  of  gravel  and  weeds  to  a  well-equipped 
playground  bordered  with  shrubbery  and  flowers.  The  blue 
berries  of  this  vine  persist  through  the  winter,  and  they  may 
be  gathered,  their  seeds  separated  and  planted  at  any  time  of 


WINDOW-BOXES  AND   PORCH-BOXES  179 

spring  or  summer.  Planted  thus  freshly  they  germinate 
readily.  The  only  difficulty  is  that  in  most  cases  they  are  not 
hardy  the  first  winter,  and  so  must  be  protected  with  a  cold- 
frame  white  seedlings,  or  grown  in  the  house  until  of 
sturdy  growth.  While  annual  vines  will  be  used  freely  at 
first,  it  is  desirable  gradually  to  introduce  the  perennial  sorts 
as  a  mainstay. 

WINDOW-BOXES  AND  PORCH-BOXES 

The  outside  window  garden  serves  two  important  pur- 
poses. On  the  one  hand  it  renders  the  building  more  attrac- 
tive to  the  eyes  of  passers-by,  lighting  up  the  bare  walls  with 
patches  of  beautiful  color,  while  on  the  other  hand  it  serves 
to  bring  to  the  occupants  of  the  room  a  continually  renewed 
suggestion  of  the  beauties  of  the  outer  world,  giving  to  those 
who  are  confined  to  the  town  through  the  summer  months,  a 
suggestion  at  least  of  the  natural  beauties  which  are  enjoyed 
by  those  more  fortunate  ones  who  are  able  to  escape  to  the 
country.  The  window  garden  should  always  please  the 
sense  of  sight,  making  the  room  inside  more  attractive,  and, 
in  the  experience  of  many  people,  making  it  appear  larger 
and  more  spacious.  Such  a  garden  may  also  be  made  to 
minister  to  the  sense  of  smell,  that  "poet  of  the  senses " 
which  receives  so  much  delight  from  the  delicate  fragrance 
of  beautiful  flowers. 

It  is  very  desirable  that  the  window-boxes  be  at  least  ten 
inches  wide  and  six  or  eight  deep,  as  this  gives  an  opportunity 
to  fill  them  with  a  considerable  amount  of  rich,  loamy  garden 
soil,  and  of  course  the  larger  the  amount  of  soil  in  proportion 
to  the  evaporating  surface,  the  easier  it  is  to  keep  the  plants 
from  suffering  from  drouth.  The  boxes  may  very  well  be 


i8o        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

made  of  inch  boards  nailed  tightly  together  and  painted  both 
inside  and  out.  It  is,  of  course,  desirable  that  the  paint  used 
should  be  the  same  color  as  the  house,  but  if  this  is  not  prac- 
ticable a  dark  green  color  will  generally  harmonize  with  the 
plants. 

Two  methods  may  be  employed  in  attaching  the  window- 
boxes  to  the  house.  The  first  is  by  the  use  of  the  metal 
brackets  to  be  bought  in  a  great  variety  of  sizes  at  the  hard- 
ware stores.  These  should,  of  course,  be  held  in  place  by 
long  screws  that  run  directly  into  the  upright  joists  of  the 
house,  and  it  will  be  desirable  to  paint  the  brackets  the  same 
color  as  the  house.  The  other  method  is  to  fasten  the  box 
upon  horizontal  pieces  which  run  out  from  a  board  nailed  to 
the  house  far  enough  down  so  that  the  window-box  fits  directly 
underneath  the  projecting  window  ledge.  Each  of  these 
horizontal  crosspieces  is  held  in  position  by  a  long  bracket 
piece  running  from  the  end  to  the  sillboard  of  the  house. 
Any  one  at  all  skilful  with  hammer  and  saw  could  attach  a 
window-box  in  this  way  in  a  very  short  time. 

Inasmuch  as  the  window-boxes  have  the  direct  shelter  of 
the  house,  one  can  generally  start  them  considerably  earlier 
than  it  is  safe  to  plant  tender  flowers  in  the  larger  garden  in 
the  ground.  The  late  frosts  are  not  likely  to  be  sufficiently 
severe  to  injure  the  window-boxes,  rendered  safer  both  by 
the  house  and  by  the  fact  that  they  are  several  feet  from  the 
ground. 

If  one  can  get  the  plants  for  stocking  the  window  garden 
from  a  florist  near  at  hand,  it  is  desirable  to  do  so,  as  such 
plants  will  be  well  established  in  pots  and  may  be  transferred 
to  the  window-box  with  little  or  no  checking  of  their  growth. 
In  case  plants  are  received  by  mail  it  will  generally  be  neces- 


WINDOW-BOXES  AND   PORCH-BOXES  181 

sary  to  pot  them  and  care  for  them  carefully  until  they  are 
fairly  established,  when  they  may  be  transferred  to  the 
window  garden. 

Two  methods  of  planting  the  window-box  are  open  to 
one.  The  first  is  to  set  the  plants  directly  into  the  soil, 
allowing  the  roots  to  ramify  in  all  directions  and  to  inter- 
mingle as  they  will.  This  has  the  advantage  of  giving  a 
greater  opportunity  for  root  development,  and,  on  the  whole, 
for  most  plants  is  likely  to  give  surer  and  better  results.  It 
has  the  disadvantage,  however,  that  the  plants  once  started 
cannot  be  changed  in  position  or  removed  without  serious 
interference  with  their  growth.  The  other  method  is  to  leave 
the  plants  in  good-sized  pots,  which  are  sunk  into  the  soil  so 
that  the  roots  of  the  plants  are  practically  confined  to  the 
pots,  although  after  a  considerable  period  some  of  them  may 
escape  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom  or  over  the  surface  of 
the  top.  This  method  has  the  obvious  advantage  of  enabling 
one  to  take  out  a  plant  at  any  time  and  replace  it  by  another 
without  serious  disturbance  to  the  box  as  a  whole.  It  also 
has  the  advantage  of  enabling  one  to  turn  a  plant  around 
occasionally,  so  that  if  it  starts  to  have  a  one-sided  develop- 
ment, on  account  of  the  greater  exposure  to  sunlight  of  that 
side,  this  may  be  avoided.  The  method  chosen  may  well 
vary  with  the  differing  conditions.  Not  infrequently  it  may 
be  desirable  to  adopt  both  in  the  same  box,  placing  the  vines 
along  the  margins  of  the  box  directly  in  the  soil  and  setting 
the  plants  along  the  middle  in  pots.  The  pots,  of  course, 
should  be  completely  submerged,  in  order  that  there  may 
not  be  unnecessary  drying  of  the  roots. 


182        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

It  is  entirely  practicable  to  have  a  successful  window 
garden  on  a  northern  exposure.  In  order  to  obtain  the  best 
results  here,  as  in  other  situations,  it  is  desirable,  of  course, 
to  choose  plants  which  thrive  in  the  shade.  There  are  a 
number  of  flowers  which  may  be  utilized  for  this  purpose,  and 
in  most  northern  exposures  one  can  depend  upon  a  certain 
amount  of  sunshine  either  in  the  morning  or  the  afternoon. 

The  Plants  to  Use 

The  caladiums  belong  to  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
groups  of  plants  which  may  be  used  in  such  boxes  for  they 
are  among  the  most  decorative  of  all  our  foliage  plants. 
These  caladiums  may  usually  be  purchased  from  the  florist. 
Two  or  three  such  plants  will  make  a  very  satisfactory  show 
throughout  the  season. 

Asparagus  sprengeri  is  another  excellent  plant  for  the 
north  window-box.  It  grows  luxuriantly  in  partial  shade, 
and  if  a  good-sized  specimen  be  planted  it  will  rapidly  in- 
crease in  leafage  during  the  weeks  of  early  summer.  The 
Boston  Fern,  or  some  of  the  recent  varieties  of  it,  may  also  be 
used  to  advantage  in  such  a  box.  An  excellent  combination 
may  be  made  by  putting  a  good -sized  Boston  Fern  in  the 
middle  of  the  box  and  a  plant  of  asparagus  sprengeri  on 
each  end,  utilizing  some  vine  to  plant  along  the  front  margin 
of  the  box.  Among  the  other  plants  that  may  be  utilized 
for  the  north  box  may  be  mentioned  some  of  the  hardier 
begonias  like  the  Rubra  Begonia,  some  of  the  more  beautiful 
fuchsias,  of  which  the  variety  called  Phenomenal  is  a  good  ex- 
ample, while  for  the  vines  one  may  use  some  of  the  ornamental 
vincas,  the  manettia  vine  or  the  Japanese  Morning-glories, 
as  well  as  the  maurandia  vine  and  the  Trailing  Fuchsias. 


WINDOW-BOXES  AND   PORCH-BOXES  183 

It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  more  graceful  and  at- 
tractive window-garden  plant  than  the  so-called  Asparagus 
Fern.  The  delicate  foliage  of  this  is  exceedingly  popular, 
both  as  an  ornamental  house-plant  and  for  greenery  to  use 
with  cut  flowers.  It  certainly  would  be  well  worth  while  to 
try  either  one  good-sized  plant  in  the  middle  of  the  box  or 
two  smaller  ones  near  the  ends,  especially  in  situations  where 
the  broad  masses  of  delicate  spray  would  not  be  too  severely 
exposed  to  strong  winds  and  beating  rains. 

An  eastern  exposure  is  ideal  for  many  kinds  of  plants  in 
an  outside  window  garden.  The  box  receives  the  morning 
sun,  so  that  all  the  plants  get  a  considerable  amount  of  direct 
sunshine,  but  they  are  not  subject  to  the  overpowering  heat 
of  the  afternoon  sun.  One  can  grow  successfully  in  an 
eastern  exposure  almost  any  plants  which  are  available  for 
window-garden  culture,  although  a  few  shade-loving  sorts 
are  likely  to  thrive  better  in  a  northern  exposure. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  upright  plants  for  the 
east  window-box  is  the  white  antirrhinum  or  snapdragon. 
Probably  there  will  be  more  satisfaction  in  growing  the  Dwarf 
or  Tom  Thumb  varieties  of  these  than  the  very  tall  varieties. 
The  Queen  of  the  North  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  of 
the  white  sorts.  It  grows  to  a  height  of  one  foot,  and  several 
plants  may  be  set  rather  close  together  in  the  window-box. 
Another  plant  which  may  be  used  with  great  satisfaction  in 
such  a  box  is  the  heliotrope,  the  delicious  perfume  of  which 
will  come  through  the  open  window  and  scent  the  room  in  a 
most  delightful  way.  Boston  Ferns  may  also  be  utilized  for 
an  eastern  exposure,  while  the  Tom  Thumb  Nasturtiums  are 
here  particularly  satisfactory.  For  vines  in  this  situation, 
one  can  utilize  almost  any  of  the  climbers  and  trailers.  The 


i84        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

wild  cucumbers  are  particularly  satisfactory,  running  up 
trellises  at  the  ends  of  the  boxes  and  trailing  down  over  the 
sides  in  a  way  to  give  an  astonishing  amount  of  foliage  and 
blossoms. 

Some  of  the  tuberous  begonias  may  well  be  utilized  here, 
the  window-box  being  a  particularly  desirable  place  for  grow- 
ing these  plants  with  their  wonderful  richness  of  coloring.  It 
is  better  not  to  try  to  grow  more  than  two  colors  of  these 
begonias  in  the  same  box,  and  of  these  two  colors  one  should 
be  white.  The  double  petunias  are  also  admirable  flowers 
for  this  exposure,  the  light  or  pink  varieties  lighting  up  the 
box  in  a  most  delightful  way.  These  plants  when  well  grown 
cover  a  considerable  surface,  so  that  one  should  be  careful 
not  to  crowd  too  many  into  a  box.  A  box  containing  two  well- 
grown  plants  near  each  end,  with  some  upright  plants  like 
the  antirrhinum  between  them  and  some  vines  along  the 
front  margin,  will  make  a  very  attractive  effect  through  the 
summer. 

An  excellent  vine  for  use  in  the  east  boxes  is  the  interesting 
plant  called  solanum  jasminoides.  As  will  be  noted,  this 
plant  belongs  to  the  same  genus  as  the  potato,  and  the  white 
flowers  which  are  borne  in  beautiful  jasmine-like  clusters 
show  by  their  structure  their  family  relationship.  The  vine 
is  not  very  generally  known,  and  it  would  be  worth  while  to 
try  at  least  one  in  the  middle  of  the  box  for  the  sake  of  its 
novelty.  The  climbing  or  trailing  nasturtiums  may,  of 
course,  be  utilized  in  these  boxes.  By  choosing  colors  that 
harmonize  with  the  colors  of  the  other  flowers  in  the  box  one 
can  get  very  attractive  results. 


WINDOW-BOXES  AND   PORCH-BOXES  185 


Special  Plants  Required  for  West  or  South  Exposures 

An  exposure  to  the  south  or  west  is  a  trying  one  for  a  win- 
dow garden,  as  the  great  heat  of  the  afternoon  sun  is  reflected 
upon  the  plants  with  almost  terrific  effect.  It  is,  of  course, 
desirable  to  choose  for  such  exposures  hardy  plants  from  more 
or  less  tropical  climates,  which  will  thrive  under  these  condi- 
tions. Perhaps  no  plants  are  better  adapted  to  this  exposure 
than  the  nasturtiums.  One  can  easily  obtain  beautiful 
boxes  from  nasturtiums  alone,  planting  the  tall-growing  sorts 
along  the  margins,  to  hang  over  the  sides  or  be  trained  up 
beside  the  windows,  and  in  the  middle  the  Dwarf  or  Tom 
Thumb  varieties,  to  yield  an  attractive  upright  foliage  and  a 
vast  abundance  of  beautiful  flowers.  No  plants  are  more 
satisfactory  and  more  easily  grown  in  a  window-box,  and 
one  can  easily  choose  from  the  great  number  of  varieties  now 
available  a.  wide  range  of  colors  in  flowers.  Most  people 
have  decided  preferences  .with  regard  to  these,  and  one  should 
choose  named  varieties,  the  colors  of  which  are  individually 
attractive.  If  one  has  already  started  some  nasturtium  seed- 
lings in  pots,  it  will  be  desirable  to  transfer  them  directly  to 
the  window-box,  and  thus  have  them  reach  the  blossoming 
period  earlier. 

No  plants  are  more  satisfactory  for  use  in  these  boxes, 
that  get  the  full  glare  of  the  sun,  than  the  various  geraniums, 
those  hardy  flowers  which  seem  so  well  adapted  to  all  condi- 
tions of  existence.  One  can  get  a  great  range  of  color  in  the 
blossoms  of  these  geraniums,  one  of  the  most  popular  being 
the  brilliant  hues  of  the  variety  called  Eugene  Sue.  Another 
favorite  is  the  variety  called  Bruant,  which  has  blossoms  of  a 


186        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

vivid  scarlet  color.  Almost  any  florist  can  furnish  these  as 
well  as  the  plants  of  some  good  white  geranium.  A  good 
pink  variety  is  the  one  called  Granvilie.  For  combining 
with  boxes  in  which  these  upright  geraniums  are  growing, 
one  may  utilize  the  maurandia,  a  graceful  climbing  or  trail- 
ing plant,  which  will  thrive  in  a  sunny  exposure,  or  the 
familiar  little  trailing  plant  commonly  called  gill-over-the- 
ground  or  Ground  Ivy,  often  referred  to  in  the  books  as 
Nepeta  Glechoma.  This  is  much  more  attractive  trailing  down 
from  a  window-box  than  it  is  as  it  grows  on  the  ground. 

Porch-Boxes 

During  recent  years  plant  boxes  upon  the  railing  or  sides 
of  the  porch  have  become  almost  as  popular  as  have  window- 
boxes,  and  in  general  what  has  been  said  regarding  the  former 
also  holds  true  of  the  latter.  The  porch-boxes,  however, 
commonly  have  the  advantage  of  not  being  directly  against 
the  reflecting  surface  of  house  or  window,  so  that  the  plants 
do  not  have  to  endure  so  fierce  a  heat.  They  generally  get, 
also,  considerably  more  shading  on  account  of  projecting 
roofs. 

In  addition  to  their  use  for  beauty,  the  porch-boxes  are 
often  very  effective  as  screens,  giving  to  the  occupants  of  the 
verandas  a  privacy  to  secure  which  screens  or  awnings  might 
otherwise  be  necessary. 

In  stocking  these  porch-boxes  the  same  general  principles 
hold  as  in  the  case  of  the  window-boxes.  The  exposure  will 
not  be  quite  so  important,  for  the  reasons  already  indicated, 
and  if  the  boxes  are  larger  more  plants  may  readily  be  in- 
serted. Wild  cucumber  is  likely  to  prove  very  serviceable  in 
good-sized  boxes  which  are  not  too  directly  exposed  to  the 


PLANTING  TENDER  ANNUALS  187 

southern  or  western  sun.  It  can  be  run  up  upon  wire  netting 
and  allowed  to  trail  down,  forming  during  the  latter  part  of 
the  season  a  very  beautiful  screen.  Various  other  vines  can 
be  utilized  in  the  same  way. 

Many  city  homes  have  no  other  door  yard  than  the  flat 
roof  of  the  building  or  of  some  shed  or  projection  from  a 
lower  story.  Sometimes  these  little  areas  in  the  air,  where 
clothes  are  hung  to  dry,  are  made  very  beautiful  hanging 
gardens  by  surrounding  them  with  boxes  and  half-barrels  of 
soil  where  a  variety  of  vines  and  flowers  are  grown.  Not 
only  annuals,  but  the  hardier  perennials  may  be  made  at 
home  in  these  seemingly  unfavorable  conditions. 

PLANTING  TENDER  ANNUALS 

When  the  mild  weather  of  spring  has  had  time  to  warm 
up  the  soil  somewhat,  so  that  danger  from  frost  is  past,  it  is 
time  to  sow  out-doors  the  seed  of  such  tender  annuals  as  one 
may  desire  to  grow.  The  results  from  such  planting  will  be 
much  more  satisfactory  if  one  has  prepared  beforehand  a 
careful  garden  plan  in  which  the  flowers  to  be  grown  are 
arranged  with  reference  to  harmony  of  color  and  form  as 
well  as  to  the  time  of  blossoming. 

Most  of  these  annual  flowering  plants  may  very  well  be 
sown  in  the  position  in  which  they  are  to  grow,  the  seed 
being  scattered  rather  sparsely  in  the  rows  and  the  seedlings 
thinned  out  when  they  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  so  that 
each  one  left  will  have  plenty  of  room  to  develop.  It  is 
often  desirable,  however,  to  sow  in  some  seed-bed  such  of 
the  annuals  as  may  readily  be  transplanted  and  then  transfer 
them  to  their  permanent  situation.  This  is  the  case  when 


P 


(W^vSVcvM         W  „  Y 

^wSSS^X^ 

/§F<£^$  T®  \,V 

lv«  ^rs  Vz^  V7  /fl  S  V  ^  '  H  . 


e- 


G 


v^^ 


9 


THE    MAY    CALENDAR  189 

one  wishes  to  fill  in  with  summer  flowers  the  ground  occupied 
in  spring  by  the  spring  flowering  bulbs. 

Among  the  flowers  that  may  be  transplanted  in  this  way 
to  great  advantage  are  the  cosmos  and  the  China  Asters. 
Both  of  these  are  likely  to  do  as  well  when  thus  started 
out-doors  as  they  will  do  if  the  seed  is  started  in-doors 
under  the  ordinary  conditions  of  the  house  or  school-room. 
While  you  desire  to  get  the  cosmos  started  as  early  as 
one  can  obtain  a  good  growth,  it  is  neither  necessary  nor 
desirable  in  the  case  of  most  kinds  of  China  Asters;  for  these 
will  blossom  freely  in  August  and  September,  if  the  seed  is 
sown  out-doors  about  the  middle  of  May,  and  the  blossoms 
are  not  so  likely  to  go  by  before  the  end  of  the  open  season. 
The  young  aster  plants  are  really  hardy,  sometimes  coming  up 
in  early  spring  from  self-sown  seed  of  the  previous  autumn, 
so  that  they  can,  if  so  desired,  be  planted  out-doors  as  early 
as  the  other  hardy  annuals.  In  the  case  of  the  large  branch- 
ing varieties,  it  seems  probable  that  you  will  get  longer  stems 
and  larger  flowers  from  seed  sown  early.  Try  it  and  learn 
for  yourself. 

THE  MAY  CALENDAR 

Flowers 

Sow  in  a  sheltered  spot  near  a  building,  or  in  a  cold-frame,  seeds  of  all 
flowers  that  are  to  be  transplanted. 

Sow  in  places  where  they  are  to  remain  seeds  of  other  flowers. 

PLANT  the  outside  window-boxes  and  porch-boxes.  Make  each  a 
picture  that  shall  have  unity. 

PLANT  late  in  the  month  the  summer  flowering  bulbs— dahlia,  glad- 
iolus, tuberose. 

FURNISH  support  of  brush  or  wire  to  sweet  peas  as  soon  as  they  are 
five  inches  high. 


igo        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

Vegetables 

Sow  for  succession:  beet,  turnip,  cabbage,  spinach,  lettuce,  wrinkled 

peas. 

PLANT  main  crop  of  potatoes. 
Sow  during  last  half  of  month  the  pulse  crops — beans  and  peas;  the 

vine  crops — cucumber,  melon,  pumpkin,  squash;  also  sweet  corn 

and  okra. 
TRANSPLANT  to  permanent  position  during  last  half  of  month,  if  danger 

of  frost  is  past,  tomatoes,  peppers,  and  egg-plants. 
HOE  or  rake  the  soil  surface  about  all  crops. 
THIN  and  weed  all  crops  sown  in  drills. 
HARVEST  earliest  crops — radishes,  onions  from  sets,  lettuce,  spinach. 


JUNE 


Oriental  Iris. 


"If  so  the  sweetness  of  the  wheat 
Into  my  soul  might  pass, 
And  the  clear  courage  of  the  grass." 


Siberian  Iris. 


X 

JUNE 

IRIS  BORDER  GARDENS 

Some  one  has  well  said  that  the  greatest  trouble  with  our 
planting  of  flowers  is  the  stinginess  of  it.  It  is  largely  on 
this  account  that  the  average  border  garden  falls  far  short 
of  its  possible  attractiveness:  it  usually  contains  a  very  few 
plants  of  many  different  sorts  which  fail  to  harmonize  and 
so  fail  to  give  a  suggestion  of  unity.  Now  the  out-door 
garden  should  have  in  it  the  elements  of  a  picture,  and  in  a 
picture  the  first  requirement  is  that  of  unity. 

A  great  improvement  may  easily  be  brought  about  in  the 
decorative  value  of  our  border  gardens  by  making  more 
special  plantings  of  certain  types  of  flowers.  A  bed  of 
peonies,  of  phlox,  of  Japanese  Anemones,  of  iris,  or  of 
almost  any  of  the  hardy  perennial  plants  may  readily  become 
a  feature  of  extraordinary  attraction. 

Perhaps  no  type  of  plant  is  better  adapted  for  use  in  such 
hardy  border  gardens  than  the  iris.  These  exist  in  a  great 
variety  of  special  blossoms  which  differ  in  the  time  of  bloom- 
ing and  vary  greatly  in  height  of  plant  and  in  size  of  flowers. 
They  all,  however,  have  a  uniformity  of  growth  that  enables 
one  to  combine  them  in  the  same  bed  with  excellent  re- 
sults. In  the  following  diagram  is  indicated  the  planting 
plan  for  a  simple  and  inexpensive  iris  bed  which  would 
certainly  prove  a  most  attractive  feature  in  the  border  of  any 
grounds.  The  back  row  against  the  fence  or  wall  or  the  side 

193 


i94        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

of  the  building  consists  of  the  beautiful  Japanese  Iris  planted 
two  feet  apart.  Breaking  ranks  with  these,  and  one  foot 
toward  the  front  of  the  bed,  is  a  row  of  the  stately  Siberian 
Iris/and  in  front  of  these  again  is  a  row  of  the  similar  German 
Iris.  It  would  be  possible  to  put  in  front  of  the  German  Iris 
a  row  of  our  attractive  native  blue  flag,  and  these  will  thrive 


I   «  I  JAANC|C  &,s  Jill 

4         &•      fe-        s"lBE^AN  llR.s"^       &         &         4 
£  i       1         A     OE&MAN*    .F&S        fc  I  $         ft 

k    fe    fe   fe  ft  4  i  CRATED'"'  mis  I  ft  fe  I  *  *  g  ft 


Plan  for  Iris  Border  Garden. 

vigorously  provided  an  abundance  of  water  is  furnished 
through  the  summer  season.  This  is  omitted  in  the  plan,  how- 
ever, there  being  indicated  along  the  front  border  only  a  double 
row  of  the  beautiful  Crested  Iris  which  comes  into  blossom 
in  May  shortly  before  the  German  Iris.  This  should  be 
planted  even  if  the  native  blue  flag  is  also  planted,  since  its 
dwarf  habit  renders  it  desirable  for  the  front  of  the  border. 
An  iris  bed  should  prove  of  fascinating  interest  to  any 
lover  of  flowers.  It  would  furnish  a  display  from  May  until 
August  and  would  give  throughout  the  season  an  attractive 
show  of  the  decorative  leaves.  The  lowr-growing  Crested 
Iris  will  blossom  by  the  middle  of  May,  to  be  followed  at  once 
by  the  stately  German  Iris,  and  in  June  by  the  flowers  of  the 
still  taller  Siberian  Iris,  and  these  again  in  July  will  be  suc- 
ceeded by  the  magnificent  blossoms  of  the  Japanese  Iris. 


IRIS    BORDER    GARDENS  195 

These  iris  plants  are  not  expensive.  One  should  be  able 
to  buy  good  clumps  for  setting  out  at  from  fifteen  to  twenty- 
five  cents  each.  The  German  and  Siberian  Irises  increase 
so  rapidly  that  they 
should  be  divided  and 
replanted  every  third 
or  fourth  year.  It  is 
therefore  easy  for  a 
school  to  obtain  a  good 
variety  of  colors  of  Ger- 
man Iris  by  means  of 
clumps  and  divisions 
received  as  gifts  from 
home  gardens.  If 
neighbors  possess  o  r 
purchase  different  vari- 
eties, they  can  secure 
good  collections  in 
every  home  yard  by 
means  of  exchanges. 
The  plants  should  be 
divided  in  August  or 
September:  the  blos- 
soming period  is  then 
over,  the  roots  are  well 
developed,  and  time  re- 
mains for  the  divisions 

to  become  established  before  winter.    The  iris  may  be  trans- 
planted, or  even  divided,  in  early  spring,  however. 

The  beauty  of  the  German  Iris  is  particularly  satisfying. 
While  the  structure  of  the  flower  is  similar  to  that  of  the  other 


German  Iris. 


196       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

members  of  the  iris  group,  the  individual  parts  are  so  large 
that  they  are  readily  seen  and  comprehended  by  any  one.  At 
the  base  of  the  blossom  there  are  two  clasping  parts  which  form 
the  spathe.  They  cover  the  undeveloped  buds  and  generally 
enclose  the  ovary  or  fruit  pod  at  the  base  of  the  flower.  This 
ovary,  which  is  easily  seen  by  pulling  one  of  the  valves  of  the 
spathe  to  one  side,  is  more  or  less  longitudinally  ribbed  and 
furrowed. 

Arising  from  the  top  of  the  ovary,  as  we  see  it  from  the 
outside,  •  is  the  perianth  tube,  which  is  a  little  less  than  an 
inch  long,  and  gives  rise  at  its  upper  end  to  the  showy  parts 
of  the  flower.  These  consist  of  three  large  sepals,  having 
enlarged  outer  ends  curving  downward.  Each  of  these 
downward  parts  is  called  a  "fall."  Arising  from  between 
the  bases  of  these  sepals  are  very  slender  petals  which  curve 
upward  and  inward,  rather  than  outward  and  downward. 
These  are  commonly  called  the  "standards." 

The  combination  of  the  downward-curving  falls  and  the 
upward-curving  standards  offers  opportunity  for  an  infinite 
variation  in  the  display  of  colors,  and  in  the  scores  of  varieties 
of  the  German  Iris  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  delicate 
colors  conceivable  are  displayed  on  these  surfaces.  The 
space  above  the  sepals  and  between  the  petals  is  occupied  by 
a  curious  modification  of  the  central  pistil  of  the  flower, 
which  covers  and  protects  the  stamens,  and  which  projects 
upward  at  the  end  to  form  what  the  florists  call  the  "crest." 
Just  below  the  crest  is  a  stigmatic  surface  upon  which  pollen 
must  be  left  if  the  ovules  in  the  seed  pod  are  to  develop  into 
seeds. 

In  the  conditions  of  nature,  this  whole  curious  device  of 
the  structure  of  the  iris  serves  to  bring  about  the  cross- 


IRIS    BORDER    GARDENS 


197 


pollination  of  the  blossoms  by  means  of  bees  and  other 
insects  that  alight  upon  the  fall  and  crawl  down  beneath 
the  crest,  to  get  the  nectar  secreted  in  the  base  of  the 
blossom.  As  they  thus  go  downward  their  backs  are  rubbed 
first  against  the  curious  flap  of  the  stigma,  leaving  upon  it  any 
pollen  that  may  have 
been  placed  there  during 
a  previous  visit  to  another 
flower.  This  supply  of 
pollen  is  immediately  re- 
plenished from  the  sta- 
men with  which  the  back 
of  the  bee  next  comes  in 
contact. 

Every  important  flow- 
ering plant  has  certain 
characteristics  upon 
which  its  claim  to  human 
regard  is  based.  Its 
beauty  may  lie  in  the 
grace  of  its  foliage,  the 
form  and  color  of  its  flowers,  the  attractiveness  of  its  ripened 
fruit,  or  in  a  combination  of  all  these  features.  In  the  Jap- 
anese Iris  the  lance-like  lines  of  leaf  and  stem  are  very  dec- 
orative, but  the 'blossom  is  the  thing  that  catches  and  holds 
the  eye.  In  the  horizontal  platform  of  the  expanded  petals 
nature  has  given  us  some  of  the  most  beautiful  color  tints  to 
be  found  in  all  the  world.  Cerulean  blues,  royal  purples, 
brilliant  yellows,  and  glowing  whites  are  the  favorite  colors 
in  these  displays,  colors  which  in  one  variety  may  stand 
alone,  while  in  another  they  may  exist  in  wonderful  com- 


Japanese  Iris. 


198        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

binations   that    compel   admiration   from   the    most   indif- 
ferent beholder. 

The  Japanese  Iris  multiplies  less  readily  than  the  other 
sorts,  is  not  quite  so  surely  hardy,  and  is  somewhat  more 
expensive.  But  the  blossoms  are  the  best  of  all  the  family. 


Bulbs  of  English  Iris. 

Good  results  can  be  obtained  by  growing  this  from  seed. 
In  two  or  three  years  the  plants  will  come  into  flower. 

There  are  two  other  sorts  of  iris,  the  English  and  Spanish, 
which  are  bulbous.  The  bulbs  are  very  cheap  when  bought 
by  the  hundred,  and  as  they  come  into  bloom  after  .the  Ger- 
man and  Siberian  Irises  are  past  flowering,  it  is  well  worth 
while  planting  clumps  of  them  in  fall  in  front  of  the  Iris 
border.  They  need  to  be  renewed  at  least  every  second  year, 
and  require  winter  protection. 

While  it  is  not  necessary  that  the  iris  bed  should  be  in  an 
absolutely  wet  place,  it  is  very  desirable  that  it  should  not  be 


BEETS,    TURNIPS,   AND    CARROTS  194 

in  one  that  is  too  dry.  A  northern  exposure  which  is  shaded 
part  of  the  day  will  serve  very  well,  and  a  situation  in  which 
a  thorough  soaking  may  be  given  through  the  growing  season 
will  be  advantageous.  In  the  preparation  of  the  bed  it  is 
desirable  that  the  soil  be  taken  out  to  a  depth  of  eighteen 
inches  and  the  bottom  be  filled  with  a  thoroughly  mixed 
compost  on  top  of  which  good  garden  loam  is  to  be  placed. 
If  the  bed  is  in  a  low  situation,  where  water  will  stand  to  soak 
in  without  running  off,  it 
will  be  a  very  simple  mat- 
ter to  apply  the  water.  If 
it  is  not  in  such  a  situa- 
tion it  will  be  worth  while 
to  arrange  for  subirriga- 

Plan  for  Subirrigation. 

tion  by  a  series  of  two- 

or  three-inch  drain  tile  placed  in  a  trench  in  the  way  shown 
in  the  diagram.  With  this  arrangement  it  is  only  necessary 
to  run  water  from  a  hose  into  the  upright  tile  and  let  the 
stream  pour  slowly  in  until  the  bed  is  thoroughly  saturated. 
This  arrangement  will  tend  to  draw  the  roots  downward, 
where  they  are  least  likely  to  suffer  during  dry  weather. 

The  irises  are  commonly  planted  both  in  late  summer  and 
in  early  spring.  In  the  former  case  they  should  be  protected 
by  a  mulch  of  loose  litter  through  the  winter,  although  the 
German  Iris  is  so  hardy  that  it  will  survive  with  no  cover. 

BEETS,  TURNIPS,  AND  CARROTS 

The  beet  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  of  garden  vege- 
tables, provided  one  has  a  deep,  rich,  moist,  loamy  soil  to 
grow  it  in.  In  poor,  sandy  soils  it  dries  out  quickly. 
Beets  are  likely  to  disappoint  the  expectations  of  the  gardener 


200        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

in  such  a  soil.  They  may  be  grown,  however,  by  adding  a 
nitrogenous  fertilizer  and  furnishing  plenty  of  water  during 
the  growing  period. 

Beets  are  commonly  classified  into  two  principal  groups, 
based  upon  the  size  of  the  roots.  These  are,  first,  the  flat 
or  turnip-shaped  varieties,  and  the  oblong  or  long-rooted 
varieties.  The  former,  however,  are  much  more  popular 
because  they  mature  more  quickly  and  are  more  tender  and 
better  for  table  use.  For  the  home  or  school  garden,  the 
turnip-shaped  varieties  are  certainly  much  more  desirable 
than  the  others. 

Every  seedsman  offers  many  varieties  of  beet  seeds,  and 
the  same  is  true  of  most  vegetables.  An  inexperienced 
gardener  hardly  knows  which  to  choose.  For  thorough 
knowledge  of  a  vegetable  it  is  well  to  grow  several  typical 
varieties  the  same  season,  that  by  comparison  one  may 
decide  which  is  best  for  his  conditions  and  which  he  prefers 
for  his  table.  Every  school  garden  may  wisely  present  a 
few  vegetables  in  such  representative  variety  every  year.  In 
the  case  of  the  beet,  one  should  grow  not  only  varieties  of 
turnip-shaped  beets  praised  by  the  different  seed  growers, 
and  several  varieties  of  the  long  beet,  but  also  one  or  more 
varieties  of  sugar  beet. 

The  growth  of  the  beet  is  very  simple.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  got  into 
finely  pulverized  condition,  planting  sparsely  in  drills,  the 
rows  being  at  least  a  foot  apart.  The  seedlings  will  soon  come 
up,  and  should  be  thinned  early  so  that  the  plants  stand  about 
half  an  inch  apart.  Two  weeks  or  more  later,  they  should 
be  thinned  again,  leaving  the  most  vigorous  plants  to  stand 
about  five  inches  apart,  and  utilizing  the  young  plants  pulled 


BEETS,   TURNIPS,   AND    CARROTS  201 

up  for  greens.  The  rows  should,  of  course,  be  kept  free 
from  weeds,  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  between  them  should 
be  frequently  stirred. 

If  the  seed  is  planted  early  in  the  spring  and  grows  rapidly 
under  favorable  conditions,  the  beets  will  be  large  enough 
for  table  use  early  in  summer.  If  they  are  to  be  sold  they 
may  then  be  pulled  and  tied  in  bunches  of  five  to  seven  each, 
when  they  make  a  very  attractive  appearance  for  market. 

Beets  may  be  secured  a  little  earlier  if  started  in  a  deep 
flat  or  cold-frame  and  transplanted.  In  some  sections  this 
practice  is  followed  on  a  large  scale,  and  the  plants  are  sold 
by  the  thousand  for  planting  out.  When  transplanting,  care 
should  be  used  not  to  injure  the  fine  feeding  roots,  for  other- 
wise the  growth  will  be  checked  materially. 

A  fall  crop  of  beets  may  readily  be  grown  for  autumn  and 
winter  use.  Sow  the  seed  in  August  and  treat  in  the  same 
way  as  indicated  for  the  early  crop.  Beets  so  grown  are 
much  more  tender  and  desirable  for  the  table  than  those 
which  were  sown  earlier  and  stored  away  for  autumn  and 
winter  use. 

Every  amateur  gardener  should  have  at  least  one  row  of 
carrots  in  his  garden.  These  are  interesting  plants  to  grow. 
They  require  little  care  after  the  young  seedlings  are  well 
started,  and  furnish  a  decorative  touch  to  the  garden  on  ac- 
count of  the  finely  cut,  beautiful  green  foliage.  The  roots 
are  utilized  for  soups  and  stews,  and  when  young  and  fresh 
are  delicious  served  as  a  vegetable  alone. 

Two  general  types  of  carrots  are  commonly  grown:  in  one, 
the  lower  end  of  the  root  is  distinctly  pointed;  in  the  other, 
the  lower  end  of  the  root  is  rounded.  In  both  of  these  types 
there  are  different  varieties  in  which  the  length  varies  greatly. 


202        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

There  are  also  variations  in  the  color.  The  common  forms 
are  orange,  red,  or  yellow,  but  there  are  also  varieties  which 
are  white  and  others  which  are  purple.  For  school  and 
home  gardens,  the  early  varieties  are  generally  the  most  de- 
sirable to  plant.  Of  these,  the  half-long  sorts  are  the  more 
satisfactory.  If  one  has  a  cold-frame,  however,  the  little 
round  early  forcing  variety  will  be  particularly  pleasing; 
for  it  comes  to  maturity  in  a  few  weeks,  and  has  the  finest 
flavor  as  a  table  vegetable.  Its  quick  growth  commends  it 
for  use  in  the  school  garden,  since  it  may  be  harvested  before 
school  closes  in  June. 

Like  many  of  the  seeds  of  the  great  parsley  family,  to 
which  this  plant  belongs,  the  seeds  of  carrots  are  generally 
rather  slow  in  starting.  Consequently,  it  is  desirable  to 
scatter  in  the  same  row  with  them  a  few  radish  seeds,  in 
order  that  the  latter  may  come  up  quickly  and  mark  the 
rows  so  that  the  ground  may  be  hoed  before  the  weeds  have 
a  chance  to  start.  The  carrot  seed  should  be  sowed  rather 
thinly  in  rows  about  a  foot  apart,  and  the  young  seedlings 
thinned  to  about  four  inches  apart  when  they  are  well  up. 
The  plants  do  best  in  a  moist,  loamy  soil,  the  surface  of  which 
should,  of  course,  be  kept  well  tilled  and  free  from  weeds. 
Care  must  be  taken  in  hoeing  that  the  plants  are  not  covered 
up  by  too  much  soil  on  the  one  hand,  and  that  the  soil  is  not 
drawn  too  much  away  from  them  on  the  other.  They  are 
not  a  quick-growing  crop  and  require,  even  under  favorable 
conditions,  eight  to  ten  weeks  before  they  reach  a  size  large 
enough  for  use. 

About  the  only  insect  that  is  likely  to  be  troublesome  to 
the  carrot  is  the  caterpillar  of  the  black  swallowtail  butterfly. 
These  caterpillars  are  green  and  black  in  color,  and  on 


BEETS,    TURNIPS,    AND    CARROTS  203 

account  of  the  injury  to  the  foliage  are  easily  seen  when  at 
work.  It  is  a  simple  matter  to  shake  them  off  and  thus 
stop  their  damage,  while  it  is  well  worth  while  to  place  a  few 
of  them  in  breeding-cages  and  rear  them  to  butterflies.  They 
will  feed  freely  upon  the  leaves  of  the  carrot,  parsley,  or 
related  plants,  and  will  soon  change  into  chrysalides,  to  change 
again  a  little  later  into  the  beautiful  butterflies. 

Provided  one  has  a  moist,  loamy  soil,  the  turnip  is  a  very 
easy  crop  to  grow.  It  thrives  especially  in  cool  weather, 
and  consequently  should  be  grown  in  spring  or  early  autumn 
rather  than  in  midsummer.  The  seed  germinates  about  as 
quickly  as  does  radish  seed,  and  the  tops  are  hardy,  enduring 
early  frosts  without  injury.  Turnips  are  commonly  divided 
into  four  great  classes,  according  to  the  shape  of  the  roots. 
These  are,  first,  those  varieties  in  which  the  root  is  distinctly 
flattened;  second,  those  in  which  the  root  is  round  or  top- 
shape;  third,  in  which  the  root  is  oval;  and  fourth,  in  which 
the  root  is  conical  or  subcylindrical.  The  varieties  most 
commonly  grown  belong  to  the  first  two  groups,  and  for  ordi- 
nary garden  purposes  it  is  scarcely  worth  while  to  grow  the 
others. 

The  seeds  of  turnips  are  very  small  and'  it  is  difficult  to 
avoid  sowing  them  altogether  too  thickly.  As  germination 
tests  have  shown  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  seeds  will 
germinate,  it  will  be  worth  while  for  the  young  gardener  to 
mix  the  seed  thoroughly  with  fine  sand  before  sowing  it.  In 
this  way  he  can  sow  it  more  sparsely  and  save  himself  much 
trouble  in  the  subsequent  thinning  of  the  plants.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  in  drills  and  covered  with  about  one-half 
inch  of  fine  soil.  In  a  few  days  the  seedlings  will  appear  and 
should  be  thinned  rather  early.  It  is  well  to  plan  for  two 


204        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

thinnings:  the  first  when  the  plants  are  very  small,  leaving 
them  about  one-half  an  inch  apart  in  the  row;  the  second 
when  they  are  larger,  leaving  them  about  three  inches  apart 
in  the  row.  After  this,  pull  the  young  roots  as  fast  as  they 
get  large  enough  to  eat,  and  this  will  give  room  for  those 
that  mature  later  to  spread  out  to  a  larger  size. 

Summer  grown  turnips  are  very  likely  to  be  badly  injured 
by  root  maggots,  a  pest  that  is  difficult  to  contend  against. 
The  earliest  crop  is  not  so  likely  to  be  injured.  In  localities 
where  these  insects  are  very  abundant,  it  is  scarcely  worth 
while  to  attempt  to  grow  turnips  unless  one  has  a  consider- 
able area,  so  that  the  crop  may  be  rotated  from  place  to  place 
in  succeeding  years. 

POPPIES 

Few  flowers  are  more  exquisitely  beautiful  than  poppies, 
although  the  very  quality  of  the  beauty  necessitates  that  it 
be  ephemeral.  Poppies  may  be  grown  in  any  garden  and 
the  glorious  blossoms  are  yielded  in  great  abundance,  while 
the  variations  of  type  are  so  numerous  that  one  may  gratify 
almost  any  artistic  taste  with  them.  The  simple  whiteness 
of  the  single  Shirley  Poppy  is  very  different  from  the  gorgeous 
splendor  of  the  bright-balled  Fairy  Blush,  while  between  the  # 
two  are  all  gradations  of  form  and  color.  No  flowers,  per- 
haps, are  better  adapted  to  the  school  garden  than  these;  to 
give  each  child  a  row  of  one  variety  to  care  for  would  be  a 
means  of  liberal  culture. 

Poppy  blossoms  are  creatures  of  a  day,  but  this  transitori- 
ness  enables  their  lovers  to  handle  them  afresh  each  morning 
with  new  delight.  To  Celia  Thaxter,  whose  passion  for 
poppies  has  been  revealed  so  delightfully  in  the  pages  of 


POPPIES  205 

"An  Island  Garden,"  we  are  indebted  for  the  knowledge 
that  the  blossoms  will  last  through  the  day  if  picked  very 
early,  while  the  dew  is  on  them.  And  the  gathering  of  them 
at  this  time  brings  its  own  reward,  for  if  there  are  visions  of 
greater  loveliness  in  the  outer  world  than  that  of  a  poppy 
garden,  dew-bediamonded  in  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  they 
are  rarely  seen. 

In  the  use  of  these  flowers  in-doors  it  should  be  remem- 
bered that  both  the  leaves  and  the  pods  are  essentially  decora- 
tive, so  they  must  not  be  left  out  of  the  scheme  of  display. 
Tall  jars  or  vases  are  needed  for  this  purpose;  glass  will  do, 
but  the  warm  tones  of  the  Japanese  jars  are  better. 

Of  all  the  varieties  of  poppies  the  Shirley  Poppies  are 
favorites  with  many  lovers  of  flowers.  The  leaves  are  slender 
and  full  of  grace,  and  the  flowers  consist  simply  of  four  great 
petals,  inside  of  which  is  a  circle  composed  of  many  stamens, 
while  in  the  centre  is  the  broad,  ribbed,  and  rounded  pistil. 
Within  the  pistil  are  the  ovules  which  are  to  develop  into  the 
tiny  seed  when  the  decorative  pod  ripens. 

On  the  delicate  surface  of  these  translucent  petals  nature 
paints  the  most  exquisite  colors.  In  some  cases  the  whole 
flower  is  of  a  single  hue,  while  in  others  there  are  beautiful 
combinations.  One  variety  is  of  a  glorious  poppy-red  with 
a  broad  white  cross  at  the  base;  the  stamens  have  white  fila- 
ments and  yellow  anthers.  Another  is  a  wonderful  tint  of 
orange  vermilion,  varying  slightly  in  color  tone  from  the 
base  outward.  Another  flower  is  a  combination  of  pink  and 
white,  the  petals  being  a  charming  geranium-pink  color  with 
a  narrow  margin  of  white;  the  ring  of  light  yellow  anthers  in 
the  middle  of  the  blossom  forms  a  pretty  combination  with 
the  light  pink. 


206       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

The  pure  white  Shirley  Poppies  are  certainly  among  the  most 
divine  of  garden  blossoms.  They  are  types  of  that  serene 
and  simple  beauty  which  is  its  own  excuse  for  being,  before 

which  the  pen  hesitates  in  token 
of  the  hopelessness  of  ade- 
quate portrayal.  "If  I  wished 
to  paint  a  gloriously  simple 
flower/'  writes  Schuyler  Math- 
ews,  "I  should  choose  one  of 
these  simple  white  poppies." 
To  attempt  to  describe  a  sunset, 
a  beautiful  woman,  or  a  white 
Shirley  Poppy  to  one  who  had 
never  seen  any  of  them  would 
be  a  hopeless  "  escalade  of  heav- 
en," but,  fortunately,  every  one 
has  seen  each  of  these,  and 
words  may  serve  to  bring  to 

remembrance  the  beauty  of  the 

white  Shirley  Poppies.  vision.    "What  is  a  poet?    Why 

a  poet  is  as  much  as  one  should 

say — a  poet."     So  with  this  poppy:  it  is  a  Shirley  White— 
surely  that  is  enough. 

SUMMER  FLOWERING  BULBS 

There  are  three  important  bulbous  flowering  plants  which 
may  be  planted  to  advantage  in  spring  in  order  to  get  the 
development  of  the  flowers  in  summer.  These  are  the 
gladiolus,  the  tuberose,  and  the  dahlia.  The  flowers  of 
each  are  very  different  from  those  of  either  of  the  others,  yet 
each  in  its  way  is  well  worthy  of  cultivation. 


SUMMER  FLOWERING   BULBS 


207 


The  gladiolus  is  one  of  the  best  summer  flowering  bulbs 
for  planting  in  the  border  garden  or  in  unoccupied  corners 
along  a  fence  or  hedge  row.  The  bulbs,  which  in  their 
structure  are  like  those  of  the  crocus,  and  so  are  called  corms, 
are  inexpensive,  and  the  plants  thrive 
with  the  simplest  treatment.  The  bulbs 
can  be  planted  as  early  in  spring  as  the 
ground  is  in  good  condition  to  work. 
They  should  be  set  three  or  four  inches 
deep  and  will  do  better  in  loamy  rather 
than  clayey  soil.  There  should  be  a 
succession  of  plantings  every  two  weeks 
until  the  first  of  July;  this  will  give  a 
long  period  of  flowering  and  will  enable 
one  to  have  a  splendid  display  of  blos- 
soms from  early  in  summer  until  late  in 
autumn. 

The  large  attractive  blossoms  of  the 
gladiolus  are  borne  closely  crowded  in 
long  spikes  and  the  lowest  flowers  develop 
first.  If  the  spikes  are  cut  when  they  are 
just  coming  into  blossom  and  placed  in 
water  in-doors,  the  flowers  will  continue 
to  come  out  for  many  days,  yielding  a  lasting  and  very 
interesting  display. 

The  tuberose  is  one  of  those  plants  which  were  formerly 
much  more  popular  than  they  are  to-day;  but  it  is  well  worth 
while  to  grow  a  few  specimens  in  order  to  become  familiar 
with  the  attractive  blossoms.  The  bulbs  require  a  rather 
warm  temperature  for  their  development,  so  that  it  is  not 
worth  while  to  plant  them  until  the  ground  is  warm  and  the 


Gladiolus. 


208 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


weather  is  well  settled.  In  the  more  northern  localities  they 
may  be  planted  to  advantage  about  the  first  of  June.  Good 
bulbs  may  be  bought  from  the  florists  at  small  cost  and  should 
be  set  in  rich  loamy  soil,  covering  about  one  inch  deep.  The 
plants  will  develop  rather  slowly 
and  should  blossom  in  September, 
producing  long  spikes  of  white  flowers 
with  a  heavy  sweetish  perfume. 

There  are  few  flowers  that  will 
give  so  great  a  decorative  show  the 
same  season  that  they  are  planted 
as  the  dahlia.  On  this  account 
these  plants  are  particularly  desira- 
ble for  use  in  new  places  where  the 
shrubbery  has  not  become  fully  de- 
veloped, or  where  one  wishes  an 
attractive  display  along  the  wall  or 
fence  or  in  the  border  garden.  For 
these  are  the  situations  where  the 
dahlias  may  be  used  to  greatest  advantage. 

One  advantage  of  the  dahlia  to  the  average  gardener  is 
the  ease  with  which  the  plants  may  be  grown.  If  started  early 
from  seed  in  the  house,  the  plants  will  bloom  the  same 
season.  It  is  so  easy  to  multiply  the  fine  named  varieties, 
both  by  division  of  the  clumps  of  tubers  and  by  rooting  the 
separate  sprouts  that  spring  from  them,  that  these  methods 
are  usually  followed  both  in  the  home  garden  and  by  com- 
mercial growers. 

In  April  or  May  the  tubers  should  be  taken  from  storage 
and  divided  with  a  sharp  knife.  With  skill,  a  clump  may  be 
so  divided  as  to  give  every  tuber  a  portion  of  the  base  of  the 


A  Jar  of  Tuberoses 


THE  JUNE    CALENDAR  209 

plant  stem  with  one  or  more  buds  or  sprouts.  Some  sprouts 
are  long  and  must  be  handled  with  great  care  to  avoid  break- 
ing them,  while  other  buds  are  so  small  as  to  be  hardly 
noticeable.  The  best  tubers  are  held  to  be  the  smaller  ones, 
which  will  serve  to  start  the  new  plant,  but  which  will  not 
check  the  development  of  vigorous  roots  by  too  large  a 
supply  of  food.  If  one  has  lost  his  tubers  during  the  winter 
through  some  fungous  disease,  either  single  tubers  or  well- 
rooted  plants  from  flower-pots  may  be  bought  of  florists  or 
wholesale  dealers  in  plants,  then  placed  directly  in  the  soil. 

Too  much  moisture  and  enrichment  of  the  soil  during 
the  early  stages  of  growth,  however,  tend  to  produce  more 
foliage  than  flowers.  It  is  perhaps  better  to  give  the  plants 
top  dressing  as  a  mulch  when  the  buds  form  in  midsummer, 
and  follow  this  with  frequent  watering  during  the  time  of 
flowering.  Unless  in  a  sheltered  situation,  the  plants  will  be 
blown  over  during  high  winds,  the  stem  is  so  succulent  and 
the  spread  of  foliage  so  large.  Therefore,  all  save  the  shorter 
Pompon  Dahlias  should  be  tied  to  stout  stakes  driven  into  the 
ground  beside  the  tuber. 

THE  JUNE  CALENDAR 

Flowers 

Go  over  the  surface  of  the  hardy  border  gardens  carefully  for  chance 
seedlings  of  Perennial  Phlox,  columbine,  hardy  coreopsis,  wild 
aster,  and  other  plants.  Transplant  these  to  some  place  where 
they  may  develop  until  they  flower  and  show  whether  or  not  they 
are  worth  saving. 

TRANSPLANT  early  in  the  month,  China  Aster  or  other  seedlings  among 
the  daffodils  in  the  border  garden.  These  will  be  starting  as  the 
daffodil  leaves  ripen. 

WATCH  for  greenflies  or  aphides  on  aU  plants.     When  seen,  see  if  there 


210        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

are  enough  ladybird  beetles  present  to  kill  the  aphides;  if  not, 

spray  with  sulpho-tobacco  soap  or  other  insecticide. 
LIFT  bulbs  of  hyacinths  and  tulips  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  ripened 

and  store  in  the  cellar  till  fall. 

REMOVE  the  yellowed  leaves  of  the  daffodils  as  soon  as  they  ripen. 
Mow  the  grass  where  the  crocuses  are  as  soon  as  the  crocus  leaves  turn 

yellow. 

Vegetables 

Sow,  for  succession,  beet,  turnip,  cabbage,  lettuce  (black-seeded  Simp- 
son variety),  beans,  wrinkled  peas,  cucumber  (main  crop  for 
pickles),  sweet  corn. 

PLANT  potatoes  for  main  or  late  crop,  if  not  already  done  in  May. 

TRANSPLANT  to  permanent  place,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  celery,  tomato, 
pepper,  egg-plant,  unless  this  has  already  been  done  late  in  May. 

RAKE  the  soil  surface  frequently  to  keep  it  finely  pulverized,  and  thus 
prevent  growth  of  weeds  and  loss  of  soil  moisture. 

THIN  and  weed  root,  bulb,  and  salad  crops  planted  in  drills — beets, 
carrots,  turnips,  salsify,  onions,  lettuce,  celery,  parsley;  also  sweet 
corn  and  vine  crops  planted  in  hills. 

HARVEST  early  crops— Radish,  onion  from  sets,  spinach,  lettuce,  peas. 
Replant  the  ground  at  once. 


JULY 


Celia  Thaxter's  Garden. 


"Why  is  a  garden  made  ?  "  Primarily,  it  would  seem  to  grat- 
ify man's  craving  for  beauty.  Behind  fine  gardening  is 
fine  desire.  It  is  a  plain  fact  that  men  do  not  make 
beautiful  things  merely  for  the  sake  of  something  to  do, 
but  rather  because  their  souls  compel  them.  Any  beauti- 
ful work  of  art  is  a  feat,  an  essay,  of  human  soul.  Some- 
one has  said  that  "  noble  dreams  are  great  realities "- 
this  in  praise  of  unrealized  dreams;  but  here,  in  the  fine 
garden,  is  the  noble  dream  and  the  great  reality. 

— JOHN  D.  SEDDING. 


SWEET  PEA 


Hooded  Sweet  Peas. 


XI 

JULY 
SWEET  PEAS 

The  sweet  pea  has  long  been  recognized  as  a  necessity  in 
every  well-ordered  garden.  It  has  been  grown  in  America 
for  at  least  a  hundred  years,  but  only  during  the  last  three 
decades  has  it  become  the  universal  favorite  that  we  now 
acknowledge.  This  is  largely  due  to  the  great  improvement 
in  varieties  that  has  taken  place  since  the  time  Mr.  Henry 
Eckford  of  England  began  to  cultivate  the  older  sorts  with  a 
view  to  their  improvement.  To  his  painstaking  and  long 
continued  labors  we  are  indebted  for  most  of  our  beautiful 
modern  sorts.  The  result  of  these  attempts  may  be  seen  in 
any  catalogue,  where  the  Eckford  varieties  form  so  large  a 
part  of  all  which  are  considered  worthy  of  planting. 

The  different  types  of  sweet  pea  blossoms  are  due  chiefly 
to  the  variations  in  the  shape  and  positions  of  the  petals 
which  form  the  showy  parts  of  the  flower.  Like  all  com- 
plete blossoms,  the  sweet  pea  has  four  sets  of  organs.  The 
sepals,  which  taken  together  form  the  calyx,  are  the  small 
green  pointed  bodies  at  the  base  of  the  flower  on  the  outside; 
they  are  grown  together  below.  The  petals,  which  as  a  whole 
form  the  corolla,  constitute,  as  just  stated,  the  showy  part  of 
the  flower.  The  peculiar  form  of  the  sweet  pea  blossom  is 
due  to  the  irregularity  of  the  petals.  The  large  upright  one 
at  the  top  of  the  flower  is  called  the  standard,  the  two  re- 
curved ones  in  the  middle  of  the  flower  are  called  the  wings, 

213 


2i4        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

and  the  small  lower  one  is  the  keel.  Within  the  keel  are 
found  the  stamens,  which  develop  the  yellow  pollen,  and  the 
pistil  which  matures  later  into  the  seed  pod. 

In  the  small-flowered  wild  sweet  pea  from  which  our  modern 

varieties  have  been  devel- 
oped, this  whole  complicated 
structure  of  the  flower  has 
reference  to  the  attraction  of 
insects  for  carrying  the  pollen 
from  blossom  to  blossom. 
The  bright  petals,  especially 
the  upright  standard,  attract 
the  bee,  which  alights  astride 
the  wings,  thus  depressing 
both  wings  and  keel  until  the 
end  of  the  pistil  comes  in  con- 
tact with  the  under  surface  of 
the  bee.  In  the  meantime, 
the  tongue  of  the  bee  has 
been  inserted  into  the  base  of 
the  flower,  from  which  it 
sucks  the  nectar,  and  then 
flies  to  another  blossom,  car- 
rying pollen  with  it. 

If  you  will  watch  your  sweet 

Typical  Forms  of  Htxxkd  Sweet  Peas. 

pea  flowers  a  short  time  on  a 

bright  day,  you  will  see,  however,  that  the  bees  seldom 
alight  astride  the  keel  of  our  modern  varieties  when  they  visit 
the  flowers.  The  blossoms  are  so  large  that  the  bees  can 
alight  on  one  of  the  wings  and  get  the  nectar  without 
coming  in  contact  with  the  pollen  at  all.  Consequently,  it 


SWEET  PEAS 


215 


is  probable  that  most  of  the  sweet  pea  seed  nowadays  is  self- 
pollenized. 

The  fact  of  self-pollination  probably  accounts  for  the  ease 
with  which  the  numberless  varieties  of  modern  sweet  peas 
have  been  developed  to  come  true  to  the  type.  These  vary 
greatly  both  in  color  and  shape,  there  being  several  distinct 
types  as  to  form.  The  most  pleasing  of  these  is  the  large- 
flowered  hooded  type,  in  which  the 
standard  is  symmetrical,  but  full  of 
graceful  curves;  commonly  it  curves 
outward  on  the  lower  margins,  and 
inward  above  to  form  a  hood  over 
the  wings.  The  wings  vary  greatly 
in  the  flowers  with  this  type  of  stand- 
ard; in  some  varieties  they  are  nearly 
vertical;  in  others  nearly  horizontal, 
curving  on  the  margins  to  a  greater  or 
less  degree.  The  Blanche  Burpee 
and  the  Lottie  Eckford  are  good  ex- 
amples of  the  hooded  sweet  peas. 

In  another  common  type  of  flower 
the  standard  is  flattened,  and  in  y£t 
another  it  is  rolled  backward  vertically  on  the  outer  margins. 
The  Blanche  Ferry  sweet  pea  is  an  illustration  of  the  first 
and  the  Primrose  of  the  second.  In  these  forms,  which  are 
much  less  attractive  than  the  hooded  flowers,  there  is  gener- 
ally a  greater  angle  between  the  standard  and  the  wings 
than  in  the  hooded  type.  In  addition  to  these  reasonably 
normal  forms  there  are  various  abnormal  forms,  which, 
fortunately,  the  seedsmen  are  not  offering  to  any  extent. 
One  of  the  most  peculiar  of  these  is  the  Red  Riding  Hood, 


Snapdragon  Sweet  Peas. 


2i6        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

in  which  the  flowers  are  very  much  the  shape  of  those  of  the 
snapdragon.  But  they  do  not  appeal  to  one  as  do  the  nor- 
mal forms,  and  with  the  double  sweet  peas  they  are  passing 
to  a  deserved  oblivion. 

For  revealing  the  beauty  of  the  sweet  pea  blossoms  in- 
doors almost  any  simple  flower-jar  which  is  not  too  high 
will  serve  very  well.  Clear  glass  rose  bowls  are  particularly 
attractive,  the  stems  showing  through  in  a  way  that  adds  to 
the  grace  of  the  picture.  Japanese  or  other  vases,  colored 
in  neutral  or  broken  Ttones  and  decorated  only  by  the  blend- 
ing of  colors  in  the  glaze,  may  be  used  with  any  of  the  vari- 
eties. 

There  is  one  precaution  which  nearly  always  needs  to  be 
taken  in  using  sweet  peas  for  indoor  decorations.  The 
blossoms  are  so  beautiful  that  one  is  tempted  to  pick  them 
indefinitely,  and  crowd  them  in  a  solid  mass  into  the  recep- 
tacle. But  on  the  vines  they  are  not  so  crowded;  each  one 
stands  sufficiently  alone  to  reveal  its  loveliness.  We  may 
well  take  a  hint  from  this,  and  place  them  so  loosely  in  our 
jars  that  each  blossom  will  be  in  view.  And  we  shall  also 
find  much  more  satisfaction  using  each  variety  alone,  or  com- 
bining only  a  few  varieties,  than  in  the  indiscriminate  min- 
gling of  many  sorts  in  the  same  receptacle. 

BEANS  FOR  GARDEN  CULTURE 

There  are  few  crops  which  yield  so  great  and  so  satis- 
factory a  return  for  the  amount  of  labor  required  as  the  ordi- 
nary string  beans  or  snap  beans,  as  they  are  often  called. 
These  well-known  plants  are  grown  for  the  thick  edible  pod, 
and  are  of  the  very  easiest  culture.  Two  common  types  of 
the  bush  beans  are  grown :  in  one  the  pods  are  yellow — these 


BEANS  FOR  GARDEN  CULTURE        217 

are  often  called  wax  beans;  in  the  other  the  pods  are  green— 
these  are  often  called  the  green-podded  beans. 

Bush  beans  are  tender  annuals  and  are  sown  out  of  doors 
as  soon  in  spring  as  the  ground  is  settled  and  warm,  and 
danger  from  frost  is  past.  They  are  commonly  planted  in 
drills,  although  occasionally  in  hills.  It  seems  to  make  com- 
paratively little  difference  which  of  these  methods  is  adopted, 
although  on  weedy  or  grassy  soil  the  hill  method  has  the  ad- 
vantage that  the  rows  can  be  more  thoroughly  hoed  and  kept 
free  from  weeds.  The  seeds  should  be  covered  to  the  depth 
of  at  least  an  inch,  and  the  young  seedlings  will  come  up 
under  favorable  conditions  within  a  week  from  the  time  of 
planting.  They  require  very  little  care,  but  should  not  be 
hoed  or  cultivated  when  the  leaves  are  wet,  as  this  is  liable  to 
cause  more  seriojas  injury,  by  the  fungous  disease  called  the 
bean  rust,  than  will  otherwise  occur.  The  quality  of  the 
pods  depends,  to  a  large  extent,  upon  the  rapidity  of  growth. 
When  they  grow  rapidly  without  any  check  during  their 
development,  they  are  likely  to  be  of  excellent  quality,  snap- 
ping readily,  and  with  few  of  the  objectionable  "  strings.'* 

In  order  to  have  a  continuous  supply,  several  sowings  of 
the  beans  should  be  made  in  succession,  at  intervals  of  a 
week  or  ten  days  from  May  until  August. 

In  addition  to  the  string  beans,  some  varieties  are  com- 
monly grown  for  use  as  "  shell  beans."  In  these  cases,  the 
beans  are  taken  from  the  pods  shortly  before  they  are  ripe, 
and  used  as  food.  The  most  popular  " shell  beans"  are 
tall,  climbing  sorts  which  require  poles  or  other  supports 
during  their  development. 

Still  another  type  of  beans  which  is  commonly  grown  in 
many  gardens  is  the  Lima  Bean.  The  true  Limas  are  mostly 


218 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


tall  sorts  that  require  a  long  season  for  their  development, 
and  some  poles  or  other  supports  to  enable  them  to  climb. 
In  the  more  northern  States,  the  season  is  so  short  that  the 

Lima  Beans  are  not  grown  so  suc- 
cessfully as  they  are  farther  south. 
There  are  certain  low-growing 
varieties,  however,  which  are  com- 
monly called  Bush  Limas  that 
may  be  grown  in  the  North  suc- 
cessfully; these  have  not  the  dis- 
advantage of  requiring  poles  for 
their  support.  The  Bush  Limas 
are  excellent  sorts  for  school  and 
'!  SEGALS  home  gardens. 

THE  STRUCTURE  OF  THE 
FLOWER 

The  beautiful  Shirley  Poppies 
serve  very  well  to  illustrate  the 
structure  of  a  flower.  As  the  bud 
develops  it  is  covered  by  two  large 
green  sepals  that  serve  to  protect 
the  blossom  until  the  delicate 
petals  are  ready  to  unfold.  At 
Shirley  Poppy.  the  base  of  the  petals  in  the  cen- 

tre of  the   flower  are  the  many 

stamens,  surrounding  the  large  central  pistil.  An  impor- 
tant function  of  the  sepals  is,  as  already  noted,  to  pro- 
tect the  bud:  when  the  poppy  flower  opens  these  sepals 
commonly  fall  off.  An  important  function  of  the  petals 
is  to  attract  the  bees  to  the  flower  for  the  pollen  which  is 


COROLLA 


PISTIL 

Snapdragon. 


THE. STRUCTURE   OF  THE  FLOWER  219 

produced  by  the  stamens  and  to  carry  it  to  the  pistils  of 
other  poppy  flowers. 

The  sepals  as  a  whole  form  the  calyx  and  the  petals  as  a 
whole  form  the  corolla.  Each  stamen  consists  of  a  slender 
thread-like  stem  called 
the  filament,  and  a  larger 
bag-like  part  at  the  end 
called  the  anther. 

Each  pistil  in  a  typi- 
cal flower  consists  of  a 
basal  part  called  the 
ovary,  within  which  are 
tiny  ovules  that  develop 
into  seeds;  a  middle  part 
called  the  style,  and  an 

end  part  called  the  stigma.  The  tiny  pollen  grains 
are  carried  to  the  stigma  by  the  bees,  and  each  pollen 
grain  sends  down  through  the  style  a  curious  pollen- 
tube  that  jertilizes  the  ovule  and  causes  it  to  develop 
into  a  seed. 

In  the  annual  flowers  there  are  many  modifications 
of  the  comparatively  simple  flower  structure  of  the  poppy. 
One  of  the  commonest  of  these  is  the  union  of  the  petals 
into  a  single  corolla,  as  in  the  case  of  the  familiar  snap- 
dragon. Such  combinations  of  the  parts  of  the  flower 
generally  indicate  that  there  are  special  methods  to  induce 
pollination  by  insects,  as  you  may  readily  see  if  you  will  ex- 
amine a  snapdragon  blossom  carefully. 

The  beautiful  Madonna  Lily  may  serve  as  an  illustration 
of  a  large  number  of  our  most  popular  flowers  in  which  the 
sepals  and  the  petals  closely  resemble  one  another,  and  are 


7 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

commonly  said  to  form  the  perianth.  As  a  rule,  in  the  lily 
family  there  is  little  distinction  between  the  parts  which  are 
commonly  called  the  perianth  segments,  although  for  popular 
garden  use  it  would  seem  to  be  justifiable  to  call  them  petals. 
The  parts  of  the  flower  are.  clearly  seen  in  any  lily  in  which 
two  of  the  segments  have  been  removed  to  show  the  stamens 
and  pistil  in  the  centre  of  the  blossom. 

NASTURTIUMS 

The  nasturtiums  are  justly  favorites  with  many  flower 
lovers.  They  are  especially  notable  for  the  richness  and 
beauty  of  their  colors,  and  are  so  easily  grown  that  any  one 
with  the  smallest  bit  of  ground  available  can  easily  have  a 
beautiful  display  of  blossoms.  Mr.  Schuyler  Mathews  says 
there  is  always  some  influence  of  yellow  in  the  nasturtium 
blossom,  but  it  requires  the  experienced  eye  of  the  artist  to 
see  it  in  many  of  the  wonderful  reds  the  flower  displays. 
Scarlet,  salmon,  lilac,  pink,  bronze,  brown,  gold,  orange, 
yellow — all  these  and  many  bewildering  modifications  of 
these  do  the  nasturtiums  give  us  in  glowing  tones  which  are 
a  delight  to  the  color-loving  eye.  They  give  their  blossoms 
with  a  profusion  that  can  only  be  realized  by  one  who  will 
patiently  count  the  flowers  as  they  appear  from  day  to  day. 
A  bed  six  by  twenty  feet  filled  with  the  dwarf  varieties  will 
yield  a  thousand  blossoms  a  day. 

The  nasturtiums  belong  to  the  genus  Tropceolum,  of 
which  more  than  a  dozen  species  are  known.  Only  three 
or  four  of  these,  however,  are  commonly  cultivated.  The 
Dwarf,  or  Tom  Thumb  Nasturtiums,  belong  to  the  species 
called  Tropceolum  minus.  The  Tall,  or  Climbing  Nastur- 


NASTURTIUMS 


tiums  belong  to  the  species  called  Tropceolum  majus.  The 
Lobs  Nasturtiums  belong  to  the  species  Tropceolum  Lob- 
bianum.  The  curious  plant  called  canary  bird  flower, 
which  is  often  grown  in  greenhouses,  is  a  nasturtium  which 
belongs  to  the  species  Tropoeolum  peregrinum. 

For  use  in  beds  and  borders,  as  well  as  in  window-  and 
porch-boxes,  the  Dwarf  or  Tom  Thumb  Nasturtiums  are 
especially  desirable.  There 
are  scores  of  varieties  of  these, 
many  of  them  very  beautiful. 
There  is  also  an  attractive 
variation  in  the  colors  of  the 
foliage,  some  sorts  having 
leaves  of  very  light  green, 
while  others  have  leaves  of 
very  dark  green.  The  leaves 
are  shield-shaped  and  the  en- 
tire plant  is  smooth. 

The  Tall  or  Running  Nas- 
turtiums yield  much  more 
foliage  than  do  the  dwarf  varieties.  They  are  able  to  climb  by 
means  of  their  leaf  stems,  which  coil  around  whatever  sup- 
ports are  available.  The  whole  plant  is  more  robust  than 
the  Tom  Thumb  forms,  although,  like  the  latter,  it  is  smooth 
in  all  its  parts.  These  nasturtiums  grow  luxuriantly 
under  favorable  conditions  of  soil  and  moisture,  and  yield 
blossoms  of  good  size  and  in  many  varieties  of  excellent 
colors. 

The  Lobs  Nasturtiums  are  characterized  by  having  all  the 
parts  of  the  plant  except  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  more 
or  less  hairy.  This  species  has'  been  much  hybridized  with 


Nasturtiums  in  a  Rose  Bowl. 


222  THE    SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

the  others,  so  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  nasturtiums  now 
cultivated  are  of  mixed  races. 

The  young  seed  pods  of  the  common  nasturtiums  are 
often  used  for  pickles,  and  in  England  the  leaves  are  often 
used  in  salads.  The  ripened  seed  which  we  buy  really  con- 
sists of  the  whole  fruit,  the  wall  of  the  ovary  being  attached 
to  the  contained  seeds. 

As  cut  flowers,  the  nasturtiums  are  particularly  effective 
when  displayed  in  low  glass  vases  or  rose  bowls  in  which  the 
stems  show  through  the  sides  of  the  receptacle.  They  may 
also  be  exhibited  to  advantage  in  low  flower- jars  of  almost 
any  neutral  or  subdued  colors,  but  they  should  not  be  shown 
in  tall  vases,  for  they  will  not  stand  erect  above  the  top  for 
any  distance.  Consequently,  the  vase  will  be  too  tall,  in 
proportion  to  the  whole  display,  for  a  harmonious  result. 


THE  JULY  CALENDAR 

Flowers 

KEEP  flowers  of  sweet  peas,  marigolds,  and  other  annuals  picked  as 

fast  as  they  begin  to  wither.     If  they  go  to  seed,  the  plants  stop 

flowering. 
KEEP  all  flower  beds  free  from  weeds,  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  well 

stirred. 
Sow  seed  of  dwarf  China  Asters  of  almost  any  type  in  a  partially  shaded 

seed-bed  where  water  can  be  applied.     These  are  for  late  autumn 

window-boxes. 
PLAN  to  save  the  seed  of  some  of  your  choicest  flowers. 

Vegetables 

Sow  during  the  first  half  of  the  month  seed  of  turnips,  bush  beans,  and 
of  early  varieties  of  beets;  during  the  last  half  of  the  month  sow 
seed  of  spinach. 


THE    JULY     CALENDAR  223 

TRANSPLANT  during  the  first  part  of  the  month  tomatoes  for  green 
fruit  and  latest  crop  of  ripe  fruit,  setting  on  ground  from  which 
some  early  crop  has  been  harvested;  also  peppers,  cabbage,  and 
celery. 

KEEP  the  soil  surface  finely  pulverized  by  the  use  of  a  rake. 

WATER  frequently,  if  necessary,  but  do  it  thoroughly.  One  good  soak- 
ing late  in  the  afternoon  is  worth  a  dozen  sprinklings. 

HARVEST  early  crops  as  fast  as  possible  and  replant  the  ground  to  some- 
thing else. 


AUGUST 


Madonna  Lilies. 

A  Garden  is  a  lovesome  thing,  God  wot! 
Rose  plot, 

Fringed  pool, 
Ferned  grot — 
The  veriest  school 
Of  peace;  and  yet  the  fool 
Contends  that  God  is  not — 
Not  God!  in  gardens!  when  the  eve  is  cool? 
Nay,  but  I  have  a  sign: 
'Tis  very  sure  God  walks  in  mine. 

— THOMAS  EDWARD  BROWN. 


Oriental  Iris  in  a  Japanese  Flower-jar. 


XII 
AUGUST 

USEFUL  FLOWER-JARS 

In  few  things  could  the  average  American  home  be  so 
greatly  benefited  by  a  little  careful  attention  as  in  the  choice 
of  receptacles  for  displaying  cut  flowers.  When  we  arrange 
such  blossoms  in  a  jar  we  are  making  a  picture  in  which  the 
receptacle,  the  leaves,  and  the  flowers  form  the  materials  of 
expression.  The  effectiveness  of  such  a  picture  is  governed 
by  laws  of  harmony  just  as  much  as  is  the  effectiveness  of  a 
drawing  in  black  and  white  or  a  painting  in  colors;  and,  as 
a  rule,  the  most  important  requirement  is  to  have  a  really 
artistic  receptacle  to  begin  with. 

The  first  requirement  of  a  vase  or  jar  for  flowers  is  that  it 
shall  be  in  harmony  with  its  purpose.  In  form,  in  color,  in 
decoration  it  must  serve  as  a  fitting  receptacle  for  objects 
which  in  themselves  are  to  be  the  chief  centre  of  attraction. 
Flowers  are  infinitely  varied  in  their  shapes  and  colors,  and 
flower- jars  which  shall  be  appropriate  for  holding  different 
kinds  must  be  simple  in  form  and  coloring. 

During  the  last  few  years  there  has  been  a  wonderful  ad- 
vance in  the  character  of  the  receptacles  for  flowers  offered 
for  sale  in  our  shops.  Several  notable  pottery  establish- 
ments have  produced  wares  which  serve  their  purpose  ad- 
mirably, and  have  put  them  upon  the  market  at  prices  which 
bring  them  within  the  reach  of  people  of  moderate  means. 

Consequently,  there  is  less  and  less  excuse  for  buying  the 

227 


228 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


many  ornate,  inartistic  vases  which  are  still  offered  for  sale 
by  the  shopkeepers. 

Beauty  of  line  is  one  of  the  desirable  features  in  a  good 
flower-jar.  It  may  be  simply  the  straight  line  of  a  cylindrical 
"spill/5  or  the  graceful  curve  of  a  spherical  rose  bowl,  or  any 
of  the  innumerable  variations  between  these.  But  there 

should  be  the  effect  of  unbroken 
lines  which  will  combine  rhyth- 
mically with  the  lines  of  leaf, 
stem,  and  blossom  of  the  flowers 
held  by  the  jar. 

Beauty  of  color  is  another  thing 
to  be  desired  in  such  a  receptacle 
—not  the  brilliancy  of  standard 
colors,  but  the  softness  of  broken 
and  neutral  tones.  With  such, 
one  can  make  harmonies  of  many 
sorts  by  adapting  flower  and  vase 
to  each  other  according  to  the 
laws  of  color  harmony. 

Simplicity  of  decoration  is  also 
desirable  in  a  flower-jar.  The 
blending  of  harmonious  tones  in 
the  glaze  is  the  most  satisfactory  form  of  decoration,  for  it 
permits  the  use  of  a  wide  range  of  flowers  at  different  times 
in  the  same  receptacle. 

To  be  able  to  arrange  effectively  the  great  variety  of  flowers 
that  the  seasons  furnish  in  such  abundance,  one  should  have 
jars  of  several  distinct  shapes  and  sizes.  If  one  appreciates 
the  desirability  of  this,  it  is  really  a  simple  and  inexpensive 
matter  to  provide  them.  Get,  in  the  first  place,  two  or  three 


Perennial  Phlox  in  a  Japanese 
Flower-jar. 


USEFUL  FLOWER-JARS  229 

cylindrical  jars,  varying  in  size.  Those  of  a  height  of  four 
or  five  inches  and  a  diameter  of  about  two  inches  are  par- 
ticularly useful  for  a  great  number  of  the  smaller  flowers. 
One  or  two  taller  jars,  about  nine  inches  high  by  three  inches 
in  diameter,  will  serve  admirably  for  long-stalked  flowers  like 
the  various  sorts  of  gladiolus  and  the  Japanese  or  the  Si- 
berian Irises.  In  the  ver- 
tical compositions  which 
will  be  made  by  means 
of  these  cylindrical  re- 
ceptacles,  the  best  re- 
su^ts  w^  ke  obtained 
when  the  jar  is  about 
one-third  the  height  of 
the  composition  as  a 
whole. 

Perhaps  the  next  most 
desirable  form  of  flower- 
jar  to  get  is  one  with  more  or  less  rounded  outline,  but  taller 
than  wide,  and  with  the  opening  at  the  top  somewhat  con- 
stricted. Such  jars  are  extremely  useful  for  a  great  variety 
of  plants  with  large  flower-heads,  like  the  asters,  peonies, 
Perennial  Phloxes,  and  chrysanthemums.  Useful  sizes  of  jars 
of  this  type  range  in  height  from  six  to  eight  inches,  and  in 
diameter  at  the  top  from  three  to  four  inches. 

For  masses  of  small  and  comparatively  short-stemmed 
blossoms,  like  nasturtiums,  sweet  peas,  and  pansies,  small, 
more  or  less  spherical  jars,  fashioned  on  the  outlines  of  the 
glass  rose  bowl,  are  very  useful.  These  are  obtainable  in  a 
considerable  variety  of  pottery  ware  of  both  Japanese  and 
domestic  manufacture,  and  for  the  most  part  are  inexpensive. 


Nasturtiums  in  Green  Glass  Flower-jar. 


23° 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


When  we  come  to  consider  the  infinite  variety  of  vase 
forms  in  which  the  opening  at  the  top  is  more  or  less  con- 
stricted, there  is  opportunity  for  a  wide  range  of  selection, 
for  these  vases  are  made  by  potters  of  all  countries,  and  vary 

from  exquisite  forms  to  those  of 
the  crudest  design.  Some  people 
think  that  the  finer  of  these  vase 
forms  are  useful  only  as  mantel 
bric-a-brac,  but  many  of  them  are 
admirably  adapted  to  displaying 
a  few  delicate  and  beautiful 
flowers  on  long  stems,  with  more 
or  less  foliage  attached.  This  is 
really  the  most  effective  way  to 
utilize  many  kinds  of  flowers,  as 
it  enables  one  to  appreciate  better 
the  exquisite  beauty  of  line  in 
stem  and  leaf  and  of  color  in  the 
petals.  One  rose  or  one  poppy 
rising  from  the  slender  neck  of 
a  beautiful  flower-jar  is  likely  to 
appeal  to  an  appreciative  observ- 
er with  greater  force  than  a  mass  of  roses  or  poppies  huddled 
together  in  a  larger  receptacle. 

In  the  matter  of  decoration,  one  who  is  beginning  a  collec- 
tion of  artistic  and  useful  flower-jars  will  do  well  to  avoid 
almost  all  of  the  ordinary  designs.  There  are  many  jars 
available  in  which  the  ornamentation  is  that  of  a  mixture  of 
colors  in  the  glaze,  and  these  have  the  great  advantage  that 
they  may  be  used  with  any  flowers  without  interference  with 
the  unity  of  the  result. 


Cosmos  in  a  Slender  Vase. 


USEFUL  FLOWER-JARS  231 

On  the  other  hand,  a  vase  on  which  there  has  been  painted 
the  picture  of  some  plant  form,  whether  natural  or  conven- 
tionalized, cannot  be  used  to  advantage  with  flowers  other 
than  the  one  in  the  design.  Consequently,  such  decoration 
greatly  limits  the  usefulness  of  the  flower- 
jar,  and  one  would  be  wise  in  postponing 
the  purchase  of  such  jars  until  one  had 
accumulated  a  sufficient  number  of  those 
without  this  special  decoration  to  serve 
the  needs  of  the  home.  An  exception  to 
this  general  rule  might  be  made  in  the 
case  of  the  beautiful  flower-jars  so  gen- 
erally offered  in  the  Japanese  shops  in 
which  the  design  of  the  iris  is  utilized. 
Throughout  a  considerable  period  of 
spring  and  early  summer  one  can  get  vari- 
ous forms  of  iris  to  place  in  such  a  jar,  and 
the  combination  is  peculiarly  effective. 

When  we  leave  the  plant  decorations 
for  those  of  animals  or  mountains — to 
mention  two  features  especially  common 
in  Japanese  flower-jars — there  is  oppor- 
tunity for  more  extended  argument.  With 
these  it  is  chiefly  a  matter  of  association,  and  this  may  well 
involve  the  exercise  of  a  wise  judgment  in  which  many  factors 
receive  due  consideration.  It  is  not  strange  that  to  the 
Japanese  mind  the  picture  of  their  incomparable  mountain, 
Fujiyama,  which  so  dominates  the  landscape  of  the  islands, 
should  always  be  a  welcome  addition  to  their  pictures  and 
decorative  arrangements,  and  so  we  find  it  upon  a  large 
proportion  of  the  better  decorated  ware  that  comes  to  us 


Japanese  Iris  in  Izumo 
Vase.  . 


232        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

from  Japan.  In  the  case  of  animals,  there  is  always  a  certain 
attractiveness  in  well-executed  outlines  of  birds,  rabbits  and 
fishes,  and  we  need  not  object  seriously  to  jars  thus  decor- 
ated, as  they  will  be  found  useful  for  a  considerable  variety 
of  flower  displays. 

Next  to  the  possession  of  a  few  really  simple  and  artistic 
flower-jars,  the  most  important  point  in  the  utilization  of 
flowers  for  the  enrichment  of  home  life  is  an  appreciation  of 
the  beauty  of  simplicity  in  their  arrangement.  A  table  or 
shelf  should  be  set  aside  for  the  display  of  the  flowers,  with  a 
plain  background  and  no  massing  of  bric-a-brac  around 
them.  Then  into  the  receptacle  do  not  crowd  blossoms  in- 
discriminately, but  choose  only  one  kind  at  a  time  and,  as  a 
rule,  only  a  few  of  these,  giving  to  each  flower  an  oppor- 
tunity to  speak  for  itself  and  to  express  to  the  soul  of  the 
beholder  its  special  message  of  beauty. 

Do  not  feel  that  the  flowers  need  other  greenery  than  that 
furnished  by  their  own  leaves  and  stems.  The  universal 
custom  of  mixing  smilax  or  the  so-called  Asparagus  Fern  with 
beautiful  flowers,  is  one  that  cannot  be  too  strongly  con- 
demned. This  is  simply  a  relic  of  the  old-fashioned  bouquet, 
with  its  barbarous  intermixture  of  all  kinds  of  form  and  color 
into  a  shapeless  mass  which  might  appeal  to  a  Hottentot,  but 
certainly  should  never  appeal  to  an  educated  American.  It 
was  of  these  bouquets  that  Sir  Edwin  Arnold,  after  some 
years  of  residence'  in  Japan,  wrote : 

"Your  European  florist — who  masses  together  his  roses 
and  his  Maidenhair  Ferns  and  Calla  Lilies,  surrounding  them 
with  a  dish  of  green  and  an  outer  overcoat  of  lace-paper— 
appears  to  the  Japanese  lover  of  flowers  lower  than  a  bar- 
barian. He  has  lost — to  the  Japanese  mind — the  chief 


USEFUL   FLOWER-JARS  233 

charms  of  flowers  and  leaves,  which  consist  in  their  form  of 
growth,  their  harmonious  asymmetry,  and  their  natural  rela- 
tions. Every  school  of  flower  arrangement  in  Japan  would 
scorn  his  rural  bow-pot  or  guinea  bouquet  and  teach  him  far 
nobler  thoughts." 

Few  American  families  are  so  situated  that  they  cannot 
enrich  the  home  with  the  beauty  of  plant  life,  either  wild  or 
cultivated,  if  they  will  be  content  with  the  simpler  things 
from  the  outer  world  and  not  feel 
that  they  must  have  the  expensive 
hot-house  flowers,  the  only  ones  in 
which  the  world  of  fashion  seems 
to  be  able  to  find  any  beauty.  A 
twig  from  the  nearest  tree  is  full 
of  the  infinite  variety  of  line  and 
color  to  be  found  everywhere  in 
nature,  and  will  well  repay  care- 
ful consideration,  by  any  observ- 
ing mind. 

MARIGOLDS 

How  perfectly  some  flowers  em- 
body the  spirit  of  the  season !  The 
dainty  mayflower  seems  to  hold 
within  its  perfumed  cup  a  suggestion  of  eternal  spring  no 
more  surely  than  the  golden  marigolds  of  our  gardens  seem 
to  carry  with  them  the  glorious  perfection  of  midsummer — a 
fulness  of  form  and  richness  of  color  that  vividly  embody  the 
suggestion  of  the  hazy  August  noon. 

Many  people  apparently  do  not  care  for  marigolds.  Yet 
they  may  be  losing  something  worth  while  in  not  cultivating 
these  beautiful  blossoms.  The  perfume  may  be  a  trifle 


Tall  or  African  Marigolds. 


234 


THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 


strong,  perhaps,  when  the  flowers  are  brought  in-doors,  but 
surely  they  may  be  grown  in  the  garden  that  the  eye  may  de- 
light in  the  hemispheres  of  glowing  gold;  and  the  blossoms 
are  yielded  in  such  abundance  that  it  is  a  pity  not  to  take 

advantage  of  their  prodigality. 
Two  very  distinct  types  of 
marigolds  are  commonly  grown. 
The  Tall  or  African  Marigolds 
have  spreading  plants  that 
reach  a  height  of  two  or  three 
feet  and  are  admirably  suited 
to  the  border  garden.  The 
Dwarf  or  French  Marigolds  are 
low-growing,  bushy  plants  with 
small  flowers,  and  are  ad- 
mirably adapted  for  borders 
and  for  bedding  purposes.  The 
latter  are  exceedingly  prolific  in 
blossoms.  Schuyler  Mathews 
tells  of  one  "of  a  perfectly  sym- 
metrical shape,  spreading  with 
luxuriant  foliage  over  a  space 
twenty  inches  in  diameter  and 
bearing  seventy-five  flowers  in 
various  stages  of  development,  which,  when  fully  grown, 
will  measure  an  inch  and  a  half  across. " 

The  marigolds  are  tender  annuals  which  may  be  started 
out  of  doors  in  May  or  in-doors  somewhat  earlier.  The 
period  of  blooming  of  the  African  sorts  may  be  much  length- 
ened by  starting  the  plants  early.  The  seeds  germinate 
quickly  and  easily,  and  the  young  seedlings  grow  rapidly  in 


African  Marigolds  in  a  Bamboo 

Wall-holder. 
From  "  The  Flower  Beautiful." 


POT  HERB   CROPS  235 

FENCE: 


o  &  oooooooo 

FENCH       lAmOOLDS    °        °          <> 
o  x/         o  ,„     c-          v.'          O          ^  o        e» 

0  00°00000 

„ CANDY  TU  FT 


A  Pian  for  a  Marigold  Border  Garden. 

small  pots.  The  French  sorts  are  said  to  blossom  quicker 
and  earlier  when  their  roots  are  confined  to  pots,  even  after 
setting  in  the  open  garden. 

POT  HERB  CROPS 

A  number  of  vegetables  which  are  grown  in  order  that  the 
leaves  may  be  cooked  and  eaten  are  called  pot  herbs.  These 
leaves  and  plants  are  also  often  spoken  of  as  greens.  In 
different  regions,  different  wild  plants  are  commonly  used  for 
greens,  although  those  which  are  grown  in  gardens  for  this 
purpose  are  comparatively  few  in  number.  Of  these,  spin- 
ach, or,  as  it  is  often  spelled  and  always  pronounced,  spinage, 
is  probably  the  most  important. 

Spinach  is  a  crop  which  will  not  stand  hot  weather.  Con- 
sequently, it  must  be  grown  in  spring  or  autumn,  and, 
fortunately,  it  is  sufficiently  hardy  to  survive  the  winter, 
requiring  a  protecting  mulch,  however,  in  more  northern 
regions.  Under  favorable  conditions  the  seeds  germinate 
quickly  and  the  seedlings  mature  rapidly,  so  that  they  are 
large  enough  for  use  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks  from  the  time 
of  sowing.  It  thrives  best  in  a  warm,  rich,  loamy  soil  that 
can  be  worked  early  in  spring,  so  that  the  seedlings  may  get 


236        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

a  good  start  at  the  beginning  of  the  season.  It  should  be 
planted  in  rows  about  a  foot  apart,  and  the  soil  between  be 
frequently  tilled  to  prevent  the  growth  of  weeds.  The  young 
seedlings  should  be  thinned  to  three  or  four  inches  apart  in 
the  rows,  so  fhat  each  may  have  room  to  develop  into  a  good- 
sized  plant.  An  abundance  of  moisture  will  hasten  the 
growth,  as  will  also  the  application  of  nitrate  of  soda  or 
liquid  manure. 

Spinach  is  an  especially  good  crop  for  the  school  garden, 
wherever  sufficient  ground  is  available,  because  it  can  be 
sown  so  early  in  the  spring  and  will  be  ready  for  harvest 
before  the  close  of  school.  In  many  localities,  the  leaves 
are  badly  injured  by  the  leaf  maggot,  which  in  northern 
regions  usually  does  not  show  its  injury  until  about  the  first 
of  June,  consequently  the  first  crop  is  likely  to  escape  injury 
by  this  pest. 

Spinach  may  also  be  sown  late  in  summer  or  early  in 
autumn,  with  the  expectation  of  harvesting  the  crop  before 
winter  sets  in.  Consequently,  it  is  a  good  plant  to  try  in  the 
garden  when  school  opens  in  September.  Still  later,  fall  sow- 
ings may  be  made,  and  the  plants  covered  early  in  November 
with  a  protecting  mulch  to  enable  them  to  survive  the  winter. 
This  mulch  should  be  removed  early  in  spring  and  the  crop 
should  be  ready  for  harvesting  much  sooner  than  the  spring- 
sown  crop.  Spinach  is  also  an  excellent  plant  for  carrying 
through  the  winter  in  cold-frames. 

The  varieties  of  spinach  are  commonly  classed  under  two 
headings,  according  to  the  character  of  the  seed.  The  round- 
seeded  varieties  are  able  better  to  withstand  summer  heat, 
and  are  commonly  grown  for  spring  use.  Victoria  is  one  of 
the  best  sorts  in  this  group.  The  prickly  seeded  varieties  are 


POT   HERB   CROPS  237 

better  able  to  withstand  winter's  cold,  and  are  commonly 
planted  in  autumn  for  wintering  over.  Prickly  or  Winter 
Spinach  is  a  good  variety  of  this  type. 

The  so-called  New  Zealand  Spinach  is  an  entirely  different 
plant,  which  is  able  to  withstand  the  heat  of  summer,  and 
consequently  is  often  used  for  greens  in  this  season.  It  is 
sometimes  called  the  New  Zealand  ice  plant.  It  thrives  best 
in  a  good,  rich,  garden  soil,  and  individual  plants  attain  so 
large  a  size  that  they  require  to  be  set  two  feet  apart  in  the 
row.  The  seedlings  should  be  started  early  in-doors  and 
transplanted  out  of  doors  when  the  ground  is  in  condition  to 
work.  They  may  also  be  sown  out  of  doors  in  rows  and 
severely  thinned  as  the  young  plants  reach  a  size  large 
enough  to  eat. 

The  mustard  is  another  quick-growing  pot  herb  crop, 
which  is  excellent  for  home  and  school  gardens.  The  plant 
thrives  best  in  a  rich,  moist,  loamy  soil  that  can  be  worked 
early  in  the  season  so  that  the  seeds  may  be  planted  as  early 
as  possible.  They  should  be  sown  at  a  depth  of  about  one- 
half  inch,  in  rows  a  foot  apart,  and  the  young  seedlings 
thinned  to  about  four  or  five  inches  apart. 

The  mustard  commonly  grown  for  use  as  a  pot  herb  is 
Brassica  Japonica.  The  White  Mustard  and  the  so-called 
Chinese  Mustard  are  often  used  for  salad  plants  as  well  as 
for  greens.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  allow  any  of  the 
mustards  to  go  to  seed  in  the  garden,  because  these  plants 
readily  become  noxious  weeds  where  they  escape  from  culti- 
vation. 

Perhaps  no  plant  is  more  generally  used  for  greens  than 
the  dandelion.  Almost  everywhere,  the  dandelions  that 
grow  wild  are  cut  in  early  spring  for  this  purpose.  The  cul- 


238        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

tivated  dandelions,  however,  are  much  more  desirable,  and 
where  there  is  sufficient  ground  they  become  an  excellent 
crop  for  school  and  home  gardens. 

Dandelion  seed  should  be  planted  in  spring  or  early  sum- 
mer, in  rows  a  foot  apart,  and  be  given  careful  tillage  through- 
out the  season.  The  plants  will  then  be  of  a  good  size 
for  cutting  early  the  following  spring.  The  entire  crop 
should  be  cut,  however,  and  not  allowed  to  produce  blossoms 
and  seeds,  because  the  latter  will  spread  everywhere  and 
cause  much  trouble  in  grass  lands  and  cultivated  soils. 

PLANNING  FOR  WINTER  FLOWERS 

By  a  little  planning  during  the  later  weeks  of  summer  and 
the  early  weeks  of  autumn  one  can  very  readily  have  in- 
doors an  attractive  show  of  blossoming  plants  from  the  time 
when  the  killing  frosts  of  October  have  cut  off  the  display  in 
the  out-door  garden  until  the  time  for  blossoming  of  the 
winter  flowering  bulbs.  The  method  by  which  this  may  be 
brought  about  is  to  start  seedlings  out-doors  in  summer  and 
transplant  them  into  small  flower-pots,  which  are  then  buried 
in  the  ground  and  kept  growing  thriftily  out-doors  until  the 
danger  of  frost  requires  that  they  be  transferred  to  the  in-door 
window-boxes.  In  thus  transferring,  they  may  either  be  re- 
tained in  the  pots  which  are  to  be  buried  in  the  soil  or  the 
pots  may  be  removed  and  the  plants  set  directly  in  the  soil. 
The  chief  precaution  necessary  in  the  out-door  treatment  is 
to  cover  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  flower-pot  before  it  is 
filled  with  soil,  and  then,  after  the  plant  has  got  a  good  start, 
to  lift  the  pot  about  once  a  week  in  order  to  break  off  any 
roots  that  may  have  found  their  way  through  the  bottom  into 
the  soil  below. 


PANSIES  239 

There  are  several  annual  flowers  which  may  be  utilized 
for  this  purpose.  Among  the  most  satisfactory  are  the 
Drummond  Phlox,  the  French  Marigold,  the  China  Aster, 
the  Japanese  Morning-glories,  and  the  sweet  peas.  Each 
of  these  kinds  of  plants  may  thus  be  started  out-doors  and 
transferred  to  window-boxes  with  very  satisfactory  results. 

One  thus  saves  a  long  period  of  waiting  which  is  necessary 
when  one  does  not  plant  the  seeds  until  October.  The  plants 
get  a  better  start  out-doors  than  they  do  inside,  and  may  be 
brought  into  the  house  in  a  thrifty,  vigorous  condition  so  that 
they  will  continue  to  grow  and  blossom  for  a  long  period.  In 
a  somewhat  similar  way  some  of  the  flowering  plants  which  are 
grown  from  cuttings  may  be  started  out-doors  in  submerged 
pots,  and  then  brought  inside  just  before  the  frosts  of  autumn. 
The  various  kinds  of  geraniums  are  notable  illustrations  of 
plants  that  may  be  so  treated. 

In  selecting  a  place  to  grow  these  plants  for  in-door  flower- 
ing, choose  some  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the  garden,  prefer- 
ably one  that  is  shaded  part  of  the  day.  The  young  plants 
will  do  better  in  such  a  situation  during  the  hot,  dry  weeks  of 
summer,  and  the  transition  to  in-door  conditions  will  involve 
less  change  than  in  a  fully  exposed  situation. 

PANSIES 

The  pansy  is  universally  a  favorite  with  flower  lovers.  It 
has  been  culitivated  for  many  hundreds  of  years,  and  in 
most  European  countries  at  least  it  has  been  very  generally 
grown  by  all  classes  of  people.  Although  the  plant  is  really 
a  perennial,  living  on  from  year  to  year,  the  best  results  are 
obtained  by  treating  it  as  an  annual,  and  where  any  attention 
is  given  to  growing  it  new  plants  are  started  from  seed  every 


24o       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

season.  By  varying  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  the  period 
of  greatest  production  of  blossoms  is  easily  regulated,  so  that 
one  can  very  readily  have  plants  in  full  flower  any  time  dur- 
ing the  season. 

The  pansy  is  believed  to  have  originated  many  centuries 
ago  from  a  wild  European  violet  called  the  three-colored 
violet,  Viola  tricolor.  This  wild  type  was  somewhat  modified 
by  pansy  lovers  in  Great  Britain,  who  paid  much  attention  to 
the  cultivation  of  the  flower,  increasing  the  size  of  the  blos- 
soms and  varying  the  coloration  of  the  petals.  Toward  the 
close  of  the  nineteenth  century  certain  French  specialists, 
especially  three  men  by  the  names  of  Bugnot,  Gassier,  and 
Trimardeau,  made  a  specialty  of  bringing  the  pansy  flowers 
to  larger  size  and  greater  beauty,  and  they  succeeded  in  a 
most  wonderful  way,  giving  to  the  world  new  types  of  pansies 
which  are  commonly  named  after  these  three  Frenchmen, 
and  which  form  the  prevailing  types  of  these  flowers  as  they 
are  grown  to-day. 

Pansies  do  best  in  regions  where  there  is  abundance  of 
moisture  and  where  the  summers  are  not  too  hot  and  dry. 
In  most  American  localities  the  plants  are  likely  to  die  during 
the  summer  if  they  are  exposed  to  the  full  heat  of  the  sun  and 
do  not  receive  artificial  watering.  In  such  regions  it  is  best 
to  depend  upon  seed  sown  late  in  summer  or  early  in  autumn 
for  an  abundant  supply  of  flowers  through  the  spring  and 
early  summer,  and  upon  seed  sown  in  spring  for  a  similar 
supply  of  flowers  through  the  autumn  months.  Where  the 
protection  of  a  cold-frame  can  be  given,  the  blossoming 
period  of  the  pansies  through  the  late  autumn  and  early 
spring  may  be  greatly  increased.  In  the  selection  of  a  loca- 
tion for  the  pansy  bed  it  is  desirable  to  choose  a  place  which 


THE    AUGUST    CALENDAR  241 

receives  the  benefit  of  the  morning  sunshine  but  is  shaded 
during  the  hotter  part  of  the  afternoon.  A  moist  clay  loam 
seems  to  be  the  soil  in  which  they  grow  most  successfully. 

The  structure  of  the  pansy  flower  is  very  similar  to  that  of 
the  violet.  At  the  base  of  the  blossom  are  the  five  long 
sepals,  with  the  five  beautiful  petals  arising  between  them, 
the  lower  petal  having  the  large  nectar  spur  projecting 
toward  the  stem,  with  a  well-marked  groove  leading  to  the 
nectar  cavity.  The  two  side  petals  just  above  the  lower  one 
are  generally  furnished  with  a  fringe  of  hairs  at  their  base, 
these  hairs  being  just  above  the  stigma  of  the  pistil,  which 
occupies  the  centre  or  eye  of  the  flower.  Surrounding  the 
pistil  are  the  curious  stamens  with  the  pollen  contained  in 
the  large  flattened  anthers.  The  whole  structure  of  the 
flower  is  well  adapted  to  bringing  about  cross-pollination 
through  the  visits  of  bees,  which  are  guided  to  the  nectar 
cavity  by  numerous  colored  lines  or  nectar  guides  pointing 
toward  it. 

THE  AUGUST  CALENDAR 

Flowers 

Sow  seed  of  pansies  in  partially  shaded  seed-bed. 

TRANSPLANT  China  Aster  seedlings  sown  in  July  into  three-inch  pots  in 

the  soil  of  the  garden. 
Sow  seed  of  Japanese  Morning-glory  in  three-inch  flower-pots  sunk  in 

the  soil.     Keep  well  watered.     These  are  to  transfer  to  in-door 

window-boxes. 
Sow  seed  of  French  Marigold  and  Drummond  Phlox  in  drills  out-doors, 

for  use  later  in  in-door  window  gardens. 
START  a  window -box  of  sweet  peas  on  a  porch  or  other  sheltered  place, 

so  that  the  plants  may  get  a  good  start  before  the  box  is  brought 

in-doors. 


242        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

Vegetables 

Sow  seed  of  radish,  lettuce,  and  spinach  for  late  crop. 

RAKE  the  soil  surface  frequently.     If  "pusley"  or  other  weeds  get 

started,  hoe  and  then  rake. 

PULL  up  all  weeds  that  appear  in  the  rows.     Don't  let  any  go  to  seed. 
HARVEST  all  crops  as  fast  as  they  mature.     Pull  up  and  burn  all  parts 

of  plants  left  after  harvesting,  and  thus  prevent  their  serving  as 

breeding  grounds  for  insect  and  fungus  pests. 


PART  II 
GARDEN  EXERCISES  FOR  PUPILS 


XIII 

GENERAL  EXERCISES 

Filling  the  Flower-pot 

1.  Take  the  flower-pot  in  the  left  hand  and  put  a  piece  of 
broken  pottery  or  a  small  flat  stone  over  the  hole  in  the 
middle  of  the  bottom. 

2.  Fill  the  pot  with  sifted  soil,  damp  but  not  sticky,  and 
settle  it  by  dropping  the  pot  upon  the  bench  straight  down 
from  a  height  of  an  inch  or  so.     If  it  is  desired  to  have  the 
soil  very  compact,  then  press  it  down  with  the  thumbs. 

3.  If  seed  is  to  be  planted,  leave  a  space  of  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  top.     Sow  the  seed  over  the 
surface  and  cover  with  one-quarter  or  one-half  inch  of  fine 
soil,  leaving  about  one-half  inch  free  space  between  the  top 
of  the  soil  and  the  top  of  the  pot. 

4.  If  a  seedling  is  to  be  planted,  fill  the  pot  as  before,  then 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  soil  and  insert  the  seedling 
without  crowding  its  roots  together.     Firm  the  soil  by  press- 
ing the  thumbs  on  opposite  sides  of  the  plant,  repeating  this 
operation  two  or  three  times  as  you  turn  the  pot  around  by 
the  tips  of  the  fingers. 

Starting  Geranium  Cuttings 

i.  Break  off  a  vigorous  geranium  shoot  and  cut  it  off  just 
below  where  a  leaf  comes  out.     Remove  all  but  two  or  three 

245 


246        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

leaves  at  the  top  and  thrust  it  into  a  hole  in  wet  sand  in  a 
flower-pot  or  the  cutting  bench. 

2.  Keep  the  sand  rather  wet  for  nearly  three  or  four  weeks. 
By  the  end  of  that  time  a  callus  should  have  formed  over  the 
cut  surface  and  roots  have  started  out. 

3.  As  soon  as  the  small  roots  start,  put  the  cutting  in  a 
two-and-one-half  or  three-inch  pot  in  good  garden  soil,  prefer- 
ably with  a  little  sand  thoroughly  intermingled.     Keep  well 
watered  but  not  too  wet. 

4.  When  the  small  pot  is  full  of  roots,  re-pot  in  a  larger 
size  pot  and  keep  the  plant  growing  vigorously  thereafter. 

Carnation  Cuttings 

1.  Select  vigorous  young  growth  for  carnation  cuttings. 
Remove  part  of  the  lower  leaves  and  trim  off  just  below  a 
node.     Thrust  about  one  inch  deep  into  wet  sand  or  the  cut- 
ting bench,  and  keep  well  watered  for  three  or  four  weeks. 

2.  About  four  weeks  after  planting,  the  roots  should  be  well 
started  and  the  cutting  may  then  be  planted  in  a  two-and- 
one-half  or  three-inch  pot  in  fine  soil. 

3.  Carnations  are  said  to  start  better  in  winter,  especially 
in  January,  than  at  any  other  season. 

Seed  Testing  Exercises 

..  i.  Make  .sprouting  tests  of  the  seeds  of  four  or  five  of  the 
following  crops:  radishes,  carrots,  parsnips,  onions,  cabbages, 
spinach,  lettuce,  tomatoes,  cucumbers,  and  corn.  Deter- 
mine in  each  case  the  precise  percentage  that  germinate. 

2.  By  means  of  paper  flower-pots  make  seedling  tests  of 
the  same  kinds  of  seeds  as  are  used  in  the  sprouting  tests, 


GENERAL   EXERCISES  247 

keeping  a  careful  record,  and  determine  the  percentage  of 
good  seedlings  for  each  kind  of  vegetable. 

3.  Compare  the  percentage  in  the  sprouting  test  with  those 
in  the  seedling  test,  and  then  determine  the  difference  in  per- 
centage, if  any,  between  the  two. 

Chrysanthemums  in  Pots 

1.  Soil. — Mix  good  fresh  garden  soil  with  leaf-mold  and 
well-rotted  manure,  and  sift.     A  little  wood  ashes,  crushed 
bones,  and  soot  may  be  mingled  with  soil.     If  soil  is  too 
clayey,  lighten  it  by  admixing  sand.     Or  secure  prepared 
soil  from  a  florist. 

2.  Plant. — Secure  from  a  florist  a  well-rooted,  vigorous 
chrysanthemum,  in  a  two-  or  three-inch  pot,  of  some  stand- 
ard variety  he  can  thoroughly  recommend.     Or  secure  cut- 
tings and  root  them. 

3.  Potting. — Take  a  seven-inch  earthen  pot.   Follow  direc- 
tions for  filling  the  pot  on  page  245.     The  surface  of  the 
soil  should  be  about  one  and  a  half  inches  from  the  top  of 
the  pot  to  allow  for  watering  and  for  top-dressing  later.     In 
planting,  the  ball  of  moist  soil  on  the  roots  should  be  placed 
within  one-half  inch  of  the  surface  of  the  soil,  not  at  the 
base  of  the  pot,  for  there  must  be  room  for  root  growth. 

4.  Care. — Put  the  pot  in  any  sheltered,  sunny  place  on 
the  porch  or  in  the  house.     Or  sink  it  to  the  rim  in  the  soil 
of  a  sunny  garden  spot.     Two  bricks,  with  rough  coal  ashes 
between,    may   be   placed   just   beneath  the  pot  to  ensure 
drainage. 

5.  Watering. — At  first  fill  the  pot  each  day  or  so.     But  test 
the  condition  of  the  soil  by  looking  at  it  and  by  rapping  the 


248       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

pot.  If  dry,  the  pot  will  ring  when  rapped.  Later  in  the 
season  water  should  be  given  two  or  more  times  a  day,  accord- 
ing to  the  weather  and  the  vigor  of  the  plant.  But  do  not 
keep  the  plant  too  wet. 

6.  Fertilizing. — If  the  plant  fails  to  grow  thriftily,  a  top- 
dressing  of  bone-meal  mixed  with  sifted  loam  may  be  added 
the  last   of  August.     Commencing  in  September,  a  liquid 
fertilizer  should  be  given  once  a  week  until  the  buds  are 
formed. 

7.  Topping  and  Shaping. — Nip  off  the  end  buds  now  and 
then  in  July  to  secure  a  bushy  growth.     In  August  cease 
topping  and  allow  the  plant  to  grow.     When  the  flower  buds 
are  large  enough  to  handle,  remove  all  but  one  or  two  from  a 
branchlet,  to  ensure  large,  perfect  flowers.     Having  removed 
the  plant  to  the  house  before  frosts  come,  use  a  few  neat 
sticks  to  support  the  branches  and  secure  a  well-rounded 
plant  for  exhibition. 

8.  Records. — Keep  an  illustrated,  descriptive  record  of  the 
plant — its  variety,  name,  its  size  and  growth,  details  of  cul- 
ture under  each  head  of  the  directions,  notes  of  insect  pests 
and  other  troubles,  drawings  or  color  sketches  of  the  plant 
and  its  blossoms  at  different  stages — and  conclusions  as  to 
changes  in  culture  advisable  the  next  season. 


XIV 
SPRING  FLOWERING  BULBS 

Campernelle  Jonquil 

PLANTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  loamy  soil,  setting  about  four  inches 

deep  and  five  inches  apart.  Plant  them  as  early  in 
autumn  as  they  are  received. 

2.  When  the  ground  freezes,  cover  with  a  few  inches  of 

litter  or  mulch  of  some  sort. 

3.  As  soon  as  the  snow  goes  in  spring,  remove  the  covering 

and  watch  for  the  coming  of  the  leaves  and  flowers. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  one  bulb  in  a  three-inch  paper  pot  or  three  bulbs 

in  a  four-  or  five-inch  pot.  Cover  the  bulb  with  soil, 
and  push  the  soil  down  very  firmly.  Print  name  and 
date  on  a  wooden  label. 

2.  Water  thoroughly  and  set  away  in  a  cool,  dark  base- 

ment, covering  with  sacking  if  the  room  is  light  or  at 
all  warm. 

3.  Water  two  or  three  times  a  week,  often  enough  to  keep 

the  soil  moist  clear  to  the  bottom. 

4.  After  the  bulbs  have  thus  been  developing  their  roots 

about  nine  weeks,  bring  them  to  the  warmth  and 
249 


250       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

light  of  the  school-  or  living-room.  Print  date  on 
the  label.  If  they  can  be  put  in  a  cool,  light  room 
where  they  will  not  freeze,  they  will  develop  better 
than  in  an  ordinarily  heated  room,  and  the  flowers 
will  last  longer. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Bulb:  shape,  size,  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  bringing  to  light;  extent  of  root  development; 

of  leaf  development. 

3.  Date  when  first  flower-bud  is  seen. 

4.  Date  of  first  open  flower;  of  last  flower;  length  of  blos- 

soming period. 

5.  Height  of  leaves  and  flower-stalks;  number  of  flowers; 

length  of  perianth  tube;  shape  of  ovary  as  seen  from 
side;  expanse  of  petals;  length  of  crown;  number  of 
stamens;  appearance  of  stigma. 

6.  Conclusions  reached  as  to  means  of  improving  culture. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Bulb. 

2.  Whole  plant  and  ball  of  earth  as  turned  out  of  flower- 

pot when  brought  from  basement,  showing  extent  of 
root  development  and  leaf  development. 

3.  Leaves  and  blossoms;  try  to  express  with  a  sharp  pencil 
.    point  the  delicate  grace  of  the  long  slender  leaves 

with  their  straight  margins,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
erect  cylindrical  flower-stalks,  with  the  blossoms  held 
so  charmingly  at  an  angle  on  the  top.  Be  sure  to 
show  the  withered  spathe.  Or  use  colored  crayon 
pencils  on  gray  or  brown  paper. 


SPRING    FLOWERING    BULBS  251 

THE  STORY. 

Write  a  little  story,  giving  your  experience  as  recorded  in 
the  descriptive  record.  "My  Campernelle  Jonquil" 
would  be  a  good  title,  and  some  such  outline  as  this  may 
be  followed  to  advantage: 

Planting.     Period   of  loot  growth.     Period   of  leaf- 
growth.     Buds  and  blossoms.     Flower  structure. 

Crocus 

PLANTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Crocuses  may  be  planted  to  advantage  along  the  border 

of  the  flower  garden  or  in  the  grass  of  the  lawn,  par- 
ticularly in  corners  and  next  to  buildings  where  the 
grass  need  not  be  cut  till  the  crocus  leaves  have 
ripened.  Plant  in  September. 

2.  Set  the  bulbs  three  inches  deep  and  in  irregular  groups, 

the  individual  bulbs  or  corms  being  rather  close  to 
get  a  mass  effect  from  the  flowers. 

3.  If  in  the  garden,  cover  the  ground  after  it  freezes  with  a 

few  inches  of  mulching  of  some  sort. 

4.  As  soon  as  the  snow  goes  in  spring,  remove  the  covering, 

to  give  the  flowers  a  chance  to  shoot  up  as  soon  as 
the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground. 

5.  Do  not  cut  off  the  leaves ;  let  them  grow  and  die  down 

late  in  spring  or  early  in  summer.  The  plants  will 
then  form  new  corms  on  top  of  or  at  the  sides  of  the 
old  ones.  This  process  will  bring  the  new  bulbs  so 
near  the  surface  in  three  or  four  years  that  the  corms 
will  need  to  be  dug  up  and  planted  deeper. 


252  THE   SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Single  corms  may  be  planted  in  two-and-one-half-inch 

paper  pots;  three  may  be  planted  in  a  three-inch  pot; 
and  six  in  a  four-inch  pot.  Cover  with  about  half 
an  inch  of  soil;  firm  the  soil  well;  water  and  set  in 
the  basement. 

2.  Water  as  needed;  watch  for  any  plant-lice  on  the  new 

growth.  If  found,  cover  the  crown  with  tobacco 
powder  or  wash  with  tobacco  extract  solution. 

3.  After  nine  or  ten  weeks,  examine  the  root  development; 

if  the  lower  part  of  the  pot  is  well  filled  with  roots> 
bring  to  a  light,  cool  place  and  watch  the  develop- 
ment of  leaves  and  flowers. 

4.  Keep  a  sharp  watch  for  plant-lice  on  the  young  leaves. 

If  they  appear,  sponge  off  with  strong  soap-suds  or 
some  tobacco  insecticide  solution. 

5.  When  the  flowers  develop,  keep  the  plant  in  a  cool  place 

at  night,  and  they  will  last  longer.  Watch  them 
bud,  blossom,  and  fade.  Then  keep  on  watering 
and  tending  the  plant  in  order  that  you  may  get 
some  new  bulbs  to  grow  another  season. 

6.  When  the  leaves  finally  wither,  they  have  ripened  off. 

If  you  dig  up  the  corms  now,  you  will  probably  find 
some  new  ones  formed  on  top  of  the  old  ones.  Put 
these  away  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  and  plant  them  next 
fall,  or  plant  them  out  of  doors  in  spring. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

i.  Corm:  shape,  size,  color,  kind  of  outside  covering;  in- 
ternal structure  as  compared  with  a  hyacinth  or 
daffodil  bulb. 


SPRING    FLOWERING    BULBS  253 

2.  Root  development  when  brought  from  basement;  height 

of  leaves. 

3.  Date  of  first  blossom;  number  of  flowers;  length  of 

flowering  period. 

4.  Structure  of  flower;  color. 

5.  Period  of  leaf  growth  after  flowers  fade. 

6.  Number  of  new  corms  and  method  of  development. 

7.  Brief  statement  of  advice  for  another  season. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Corm:  side  view;  top  view;  vertical  cross-section. 

2.  Leaves  and  flowers.     Use  colored  crayon  pencils  on 

drawing  paper  or  colored  crayons  on  the  blackboard. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  about  "My  Crocuses  and  How  They  Grew/' 

THE  POEM. 

Learn  or  copy  into  your  book  the  lines  on  page  135. 

Freesias 
PLANTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Place  one  bulb  in  a  three-inch  paper  pot,  or  three  bulbs 

in  a  four-inch  pot.     Cover  to  crown  of  bulb,  firm  the 
soil  well,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  basement. 

2.  Water  as  needed  to  keep  the  soil  moist. 

3.  After  four  or  five  weeks,  bring  to  a  light,  cool  room  and 

watch  the  development  of  leaves  and  flower  buds. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Bulbs:  size,  shape,  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Root  development  when  brought  from  basement. 


254        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

3.  Date  of  first  blossom  buds. 

4.  Date  of  first  flower;  of  opening  of  last  flower  on  the  same 

flower-stalk  as  this  first  one. 

5.  Structure  of  the  flower. 

6.  Odor  of  the  flower. 

7.  Conclusions  as  to  treatment  most  successful  in  your 

conditions. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Bulb. 

2.  Leaf  and  flower-stalk  when  flower-buds  show. 

3.  Blossom. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  the  growth  of  your  freesia  blos- 
soms. When  written,  bind  the  story  up  with  your 
drawings  in  your  garden  booklet. 

Hyacinths 
PLANTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Early  in  October  set  the  bulbs  in  loamy  soil,  planting 

about  six  inches  deep,  and  being  sure  that  all  the 
bulbs  in  a  row  or  bed  are  of  the  same  depth. 

2.  As  soon  as  the  ground  freezes,  cover  the  surface  with 

five  or  six  inches  of  litter  or  mulch. 

3.  As  soon  in  spring  as  the  snow  goes,  remove  about  half 

the  depth  of  this  covering,  and  two  or  three  weeks 
later  remove  the  remainder. 

4.  Leave  a  few  bulbs  in  place;   take  others  up  when  the 

leaves  ripen,  but  plant   again  in  fall.     Plant  new 
bulbs  also.     Compare  results  in  the  three  cases. 


SPRING   FLOWERING    BULBS  255 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  EARTH. 

1.  Plant  the  larger  bulbs  singly  in  four-  or  five-inch  paper 

pots;  the  smaller  ones  in  three-  or  three-and-one-half- 
inch  paper  pots.  Or  plant  three  bulbs  in  a  five-inch 
pot.  Push  into  the  soil  until  the  crown  is  just 
covered. 

2.  Water  freely  and  set  away  in  a  dark,  cool  closet  for 

seven  or  eight  weeks.  Water  often  enough  to  keep 
the  soil  moist  throughout. 

3.  When  the  crown  of  leaves  breaks  apart,  bring  to  a  cool, 

light  room.  Keep,  if  possible,  in  such  a  room  for 
awhile.  The  plants  grow  better  in  a  cool  tempera- 
ture than  in  too  hot  a  room.  Water  freely  and  watch 
the  development  of  the  leaves  and  blossoms. 

4.  Sometimes  the  blossoms  will  start  to  open  before  the 

stalk  elongates.  If  this  happens,  try  putting  a  paper 
cap  over  the  flowers,  leaving  a  hole  in  the  top  of  the 
cap. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  WATER. 

1.  Select  large  bulbs  of  the  varieties  especially  recom- 

mended in  the  catalogues  for  water  culture.  Place 
each  in  a  hyacinth  vase  or  glass,  filling  the  latter 
so  that  the  lower  parts  of  the  bulbs  are  covered  by 
the  water. 

2.  Set  away  in  a  cool,  dark  basement  and  fill  up  with 

water  as  often  as  is  necessary  to  keep  it  at  the  orig- 
inal level. 

3.  Watch  the  long  roots  develop;  also  the  leaves.     When 

the  crown  of  leaves  breaks  apart,  bring  the  plant  to 
the  school-room,  placing  in  a  cool  place,  such  as  a 


256  THE    SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

window-sill  with  northern  exposure.     Here  it  should 
soon  send  up  its  blossom  stalk. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Bulb:  shape,   size,   color;  name  of  variety.     Date  of 

planting. 

2.  Development  of  crown  of  leaves  when  brought  from 

basement.     If  in  water,  length  of  roots. 

3.  Date  of  first  open  flower;  length  of  flowering  period. 

Height  of  leaves. 

4.  Color,  shape,  and  structure  of  single  flower;  number  of 

lobes;  number  of  stamens;  color  of  pollen;  pistil. 

5.  Note  of  culture  details  considered  best  for  another  year. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Bulb:  whole  bulb  and  one  in  vertical  cross-section,  if 

your  teacher  can  furnish  the  latter. 

2.  Leaf  crown  when  brought  from  basement. 

3.  If  one  growing  in  water  is  available,  root  development 

when  brought  from  basement. 

4.  Leaves  and  flowers  of  plant  in  bloom. 

THE  STORY. 

Write  a  little  story  with  this  title:  "My  Hyacinth."  Tell 
what  the  bulb  looked  like,  how  you  planted  it,  where 
you  put  it,  how  long  you  left  it  there,  how  much  the 
roots  and  leaves  had  grown  when  you  brought  it  out, 
when  it  blossomed,  and  what  you  did  with  the  plant 
in  blossom.  If  you  gave  it  to  your  mother  or  some 
sick  friend,  tell  whether  she  thought  it  pretty  and  the 
perfume  sweet.  Adapt  your  drawings  as  illustra- 
tions for  the  story. 


SPRING    FLOWERING    BULBS  357 

Lily-o]-the-  Valley 

Leaves,  blossoms,  stalks,  and  roots  of  the  lily-of-the-valley 
are  very  poisonous  when  eaten.  Do  not  put  any  part  of  the 
plant  in  the  mouth. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Have  "pips"  fresh  from  the  cold-storage  houses  of  the 

seedsmen.  Trim  off  with  scissors  about  one-third 
the  length  of  the  roots.  Place  three  in  a  four-inch 
pot,  packing  solidly  in  sphagnum  moss  or  sand. 
Water  thoroughly  and  set  several  of  the  pots  in  a 
pan  or  tight  box,  and  place  in  a  warm  closet  where 
the  temperature  keeps  pretty  uniformly  at  75°  or 
80°  Fahr. 

2.  Keep  well  watered,  the  sphagnum  or  sand  never  being 

allowed  to  get  at  all  dry. 

3.  After  two  weeks  bring  out  to  the  ordinary  temperature 

of  the  school-room,  putting  back  in  the  warmer 
closet  every  night.  Watch  the  leaves  and  flowers 
develop. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Roots:  characteristics.     Size  of  main  "pips";  length  of 

roots.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  first  flower.     Length  of  flowering  period.     Odor 

of  flowers. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Roots  before  planting. 

2.  Leaves  and  flowers. 


258  THE    SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  the  growth  of  your  lilies-of-the- 
valley.  Why  should  they  require  so  warm  a  tem- 
perature when  the  spring  flowering  bulbs  require  so 
cool  a  place? 

Polyanthus  Narcissi  (Paper-white  and  Others) 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  EARTH. 

1.  Plant  one  bulb  in  a  three-inch  paper  pot  or  three  bulbs 

in  a  four-inch  pot,  covering  the  crown  and  firming 
the  soil  down  hard.  Water  and  place  in  cool  base- 
ment room. 

2.  Water  two  or  three  times  a  week  for  five  or  six  weeks. 

3.  When  roots  are  well  developed,  bring  out  to  a  light,  cool 

room.  Keep  well  watered  and  watch  the  develop- 
ment of  the  leaves  and  flowers. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  WATER. 

1.  Select  the  largest  bulbs.     Place  on  small  stones  in  a 

wide  shallow  dish;  fill  with  water  to  cover  lower  third 
of  bulbs,  and  set  away  in  a  dark,  cool  basement. 

2.  Add  water  as  often  as  necessary  to  keep  it  at  original 

level;  look  at  the  dish  at  least  twice  a  week. 

3.  When  roots  are  well  developed,   bring  to  cool,   light 

room.     Leaves  and  flowers  will  grow  rapidly. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Bulb:  shape,  size,  color.     Internal  structure.     Date  of 

planting;  name  of  variety. 

2.  Rate  of  root  development;  how  long  were  the  roots  when 


SPRING  FLOWERING  BULBS  259 

the  plant  was  brought  from  the  basement;  how  high 
were  the  leaves;  color  of  leaves  when  first  brought  out. 

3.  Color  of  leaves  twenty-four  hours  after  bringing  to 

light;  forty-eight  hours  after  bringing  to  light.  What 
is  the  relation  between  sunlight  and  the  green  color- 
ing of  plants  ?  This  green  coloring  material  is  called 
chlorophyll. 

4.  Height  of  leaves  one  week  after  coming  from  basement 

room.     Date  of  first  blossom  bud.  , 

5.  Date  of  first  blossom;  how  many  to  each  stalk;  shape, 

structure,  and  size  of  flower. 

6.  Watch  the  flowers  as  they  go  by;  how  gradually  they 

wither.     Do  seeds  develop  in  the  ovary? 

7.  Conclusions  as  to  culture. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Bulb:  side  view,  and  cross-section  if  an  extra  one  can  be 

spared  to  cut  open. 

2.  Crown  of  leaves  when  plant  is  brought  to  light. 

3.  Leaves  and  flowers:  try  to  get  the  slender  grace  of  the 

leaves  and  flower-stalk  expressed  in  your  drawing. 

4.  Sketch  or  photograph  of  a  group  of  blossoming  bulbs  in 

pots  in  home  window  or  school-room. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  to  your  schoolmates  the  story  of  your  plant  as  you  saw 
it  grow;  or  write  the  story  out  for  your  booklet. 

Roman  Hyacinth 
PLANTING  IN-DOORS. 

i.  Plant  one  bulb  in  a  three-inch  paper  pot,  not  quite 
covering  the  crown.    Or  plant  three  bulbs  in  a  four-. 


260        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

or  five-inch  paper  pot.  Be  sure  to  place  a  bit  of 
stone  or  broken  pottery  over  the  drainage  hole  in  the 
bottom.  Leave  half  an  inch  space  between  the  top 
of  the  soil  and  the  top  of  the  pot. 

2.  Water  thoroughly  and  place  in  a  cool  cellar  or  basement 

room  where  it  will  not  freeze. 

3.  Water  often  enough  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  perhaps  two 

or  three  times  a  week.  If  evaporation  is  rapid, 
throw  a  piece  of  sacking  or  old  carpet  over  the  pots. 

4.  After  about  five  weeks,  when  the  roots  are  well  devel- 

oped and  perhaps  beginning  to  push  through  the 
bottom  of  the  pot,  bring  to  the  light  of  the  school- 
room, but  not  in  too  warm  and  sunny  a  situation. 

5.  Two  or  three  weeks  after  bulbs  are  brought  to  the  light 

they  are  likely  to  push  up  the  flower-stalks  with  their 
beautiful  bell-shaped  flowers.  Keep  the  plant  in  a 
cool  place,  and  these  will  last  much  longer  than  in  a 
warm  one. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Bulb:  shape,  size,  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Root  development  when  brought  from  basement.     (To 

determine  this,  turn  bulb  out  of  pot.)     Date. 

3.  Leaf  development  when  brought  from  basement.     Is 

the  ' '  crown ' '  open  ?    D  ate. 

4.  Flowering  period:  length  of  leaves;  height  of  flower- 

stalk;  number  of  flowers;  size  and   shape   of   one 
flower;   number  of  lobes   to   perianth;   number  of 
stamens;  pistil.     Date  of  first  flower;  length  of  period 
of  flowering. 
<.  Conclusion  as  to  causes  of  success  and  failure. 


SPRING  FLOWERING  BULBS  261 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Bulb. 

2.  Leaf  crown  when  brought  from  basement. 
.    3.  Plant  in  blossom. 

THE  STORY. 

From  your  record  write  a  little  story  telling  of  your  ex- 
perience with  these  bulbs.  Select  "My  Roman  Hya- 
cinth/' or  some  similar  phrase,  for  your  title.  Use 
your  drawings  to  illustrate  your  story. 

Trumpet  Daffodils  and  Medium-crowned  Narcissi 

PLANTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Set  the  bulbs  along  the  border  of  the  flower  garden  at 

least  six  inches  deep  and  six  inches  or  more  apart. 
Plant  as  soon  as  bulbs  are  received — in  September,  if ' 
possible — always  before  the  middle  of  October. 

2.  After  the  ground  freezes,  cover  with  a  few  inches  of 

mulching  of  some  sort. 

3.  When  the  snow  goes,  remove  part  of  the  mulching,  and 

late  in  March  or  early  in  April  remove  what  is  left. 

4.  As  the  flower-buds  appear,  cut  such  as  you  wish  to  use 

in-doors,  and  let  them  expand  in  water  in  vases  or 
flower-jars.  They  will  generally  be  more  perfect 
than  if  exposed  to  wind  and  sun  outside. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  EARTH. 

i.  Plant  the  bulbs  soon  after  they  are  received,  setting  in 
paper  pots  or  in  pottery  bulb  pans.  Adapt  the  bulbs 
to  the  size  of  the  pot;  one  rather  small  bulb  may  be 
placed  in  a  three-inch  paper  pot;  three  bulbs,  some- 


262        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

what  larger,  in  a  three-and-one-half-inch  paper  pot: 
three  large  bulbs  in  a  four-and-one-half-  or  five-inch 
pot.  Bury  the  bulbs  so  that  the  crown  is  nearly  cov- 
ered and  press  the  soil  down  firmly.  Water  and  set 
away  in  a  dark,  cool  basement. 

2.  Water  often  enough  to  keep  the  soil  moist  throughout. 

3.  When  the  roots  are  well  developed,  generally  in  six  to 

eight  weeks,  bring  into  a  cool,  light  room.  If  in  the 
school-room,  place  in  the  coolest  corner,  but  do  not 
let  them  freeze  at  night.  Watch  the  development 
of  leaves  and  flowers. 

4.  After  blossoming,  let  the  bulbs  continue  to  grow  to  ripen 

off,  and  as  soon  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be 
worked,  transplant  them  to  a  sheltered  place  out  of 
doors. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  WATER. 

1.  Select  the  largest  bulbs  of  the  largest  varieties.     Place 

each  in  a  hyacinth  glass  or  some  flower-jar  that  will 
hold  water  and  has  a  narrow  top.  Or  fill  a  wide,  rather 
shallow  dish  with  small  stones,  place  the  bulbs  on  these, 
and  fill  with  water  to  cover  the  lower  half  of  the  bulbs 

2.  Set  away  in  a  dark,  cool  basement  for  about  six  weeks, 

supplying  more  water  occasionally.  When  a  good 
root  development  has  taken  place,  bring  to  a  light, 
cool  room  or  to  the  school-room. 

3.  Watch  the  leaves  and  flowers  as  they  develop.     Keep 

the  water  up  to  the  original  level. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

i.  Bulb:  shape,  size,  color.     Date  of  planting.     Name  of 
rarietv. 


SPRING  FLOWERING  BULBS  263 

2.  Root    development    when    brought    from    basement. 

Height  of  leaves. 

3.  Date  when  first  flower-bud  is  seen;  when  first  flower 

opens;  when  it  withers;  number  of  flowers. 

4.  Conclusion  as  to  causes  of  success  or  lack  of  success. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Bulb. 

2.  Leaf  development  when  brought  from  basement. 

3.  Leaves  and  blossom.     Use  colored  crayons  on  paper  or 

blackboard.  ' 

THE  STORY. 

Title:  "My  Daffodil; '  Tell  how  it  grew,  and  how  the 
flower  is  composed  of  the  different  parts  shown  in 
the  picture  on  page  126. 

THE  POEM. 

Copy  in  your  booklet  some  verses  about  the  daffodil. 

Tulips 
PLANTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Select  loamy,  well-drained  soil  for  the  tulip  bed.     Plant 

the  bulbs  evenly,  about  five  inches  apart  and  four 
inches  deep. 

2.  When  the  ground  freezes,  cover  the  bed  with  coarse  lit- 

ter of  some  kind.  The  partially  decayed  leaves  to  be 
raked  from  the  ground  in  the  woodlands  are  excellent. 

3.  In  spring,  when  the  snow  is  gone,  remove  the  covering. 

4.  Leave  the  bulbs  in  position  till  the  leaves  ripen.     Then 

they  may  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a  dry  place  till 
autumn, 


264        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

5.  If  you  wish  to  get  new  bulbs  started  as  offshoots,  cut  off 
the  flower-buds  from  some  of  these  plants  as  soon  as 
they  appear.  Compare  the  size  and  number  of  off- 
shoot bulbs  produced  by  the  tulips  thus  treated 
with  those  on  the  bulbs  that  are  allowed  to  blossom. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  EARTH. 

1.  Plant  one  bulb  in  a  three-inch  pot;  three  bulbs  in  a  four- 

inch  pot;  five  or  six  in  a  four-and-one-half-  or  five- 
inch  pot.  Bury  the  bulbs  firmly  in  the  soil.  Water 
and  set  away  in  basement. 

2.  Water  occasionally,  but  don't  keep  the  soil  in  the  pots 

too  wet. 

3.  In  eight  or  nine  weeks  examine  the  roots;  if  well  devel- 

oped, filling  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  bring  the  plants 
to  a  light,  cool  room. 

4.  Water  often  enough  to  keep  the  soil  moist.   Watch  the 

development  of  leaves  and  flowers. 

5.  When  the  flowers  are  fully  opened,  pollenize  some  of 

them. 

6.  Watch  the  flowers  fade  and  the  seed  pods  develop. 

7.  If  you  have  bulbs  enough,  cut  off  the  buds  of  a  few  of 

them  and  keep  the  plants  growing.  See  if  the  foli- 
age ripens  earlier  than  those  which  blossom.  After 
the  leaves  ripen,  dig  up  the  bulbs  and  compare  the 
size  and  number  of  the  offshoots  with  those  of  the 
bulbs  that  produced  flowers. 

PLANTING  IN-DOORS  IN  WATER. 

i.  Select  the  largest  sized  bulbs  of  early  varieties;  place 
in  hyacinth  glasses  or  other  flower-jars.  Add  rain- 


SPRING  FLOWERING   BULBS  265 

water  to  partly  cover  the  bulbs,  and  set  away  in 
basement. 

2.  Keep  water  up  to  the  original  level.  After  six  or  eight 
weeks  there  should  be  a  good  development  of  roots. 
Then  bring  to  a  light,  cool  room,  and  observe  the 
growth  of  the  leaves  and  flowers. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Bulb:  size,  shape,  color  of  outer  covering  (which  is 

called  the  bulb  tunic).     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  when  brought  from  basement;  extent  of  root  de- 

velopment; size  of  flowers. 

3.  Date  of  flowering;  length  of  flowering  period. 

4.  Structure  of  flower;  color. 

5.  Date  of  pollenizing. 

6.  Date  of  ripening  of  leaves;  of  seed  pod. 

7.  Notes  as  to  care  found  best  in  your  experience. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Bulb. 

2.  Flower  and  leaf. 

3.  Seed  pod. 

4.  Bulb  with  offshoots. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  tulips  as  recorded  in  your 
Record  of  Growth. 


XV 

FLOWERS  FROM  SEED 

California  Poppy  or  Eschscholtzia 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  the  tiny  seeds  in  a  shallow  drill,  being  careful  not 

to  get  them  too  thick.  Cover  with  not  more  than 
half  an  inch  of  fine  soil:  this  may  be  sprinkled  on 
with  a  fine  sieve — a  small  flour  sieve,  for  example. 

2.  When  the  plants  are  well  up,  thin  to  six  or  eight  inches 

apart. 

3.  Keep  the  soil  surface  stirred  and  allow  no  weeds  to 

grow  about  the  plants. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size.     Color. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date.     Height.     Character  of  root.     Shape  of  leaves. 
Color  of  leaves  and  stems. 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Date.     Number,  height,  and  shape  -of  leaves. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.     Size  and  color  of  blossoms. 
Length   of   flower-stalk.      Description  of  sepals, 
petals,  stamens,  and  pistils.     Length  of  period  of 
bloom.    Use  made  of  cut  flowers. 
266 


FLOWERS  FROM  SEED  267 

5.  Seed. 

Date  of  ripening.  Form  of  seed  vessel  and  manner 
of  opening  to  free  its  seeds.  Quantity  of  seed 
gathered. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

2.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

3.  A  leaf. 

4.  A  flower  and  flower  bud. 

5.  A  seed  vessel. 

Castor  Bean 

STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  In  March  or  early  in  April  plant  the  seed  of  the  castor 

bean  in  four-inch  paper  pots,  putting  but  a  single 
seed  in  each  pot,  and  keeping  the  soil  moist,  but  not 
too  wet. 

2.  After  the  plants  come  up,  disturb  them  as  little  as  pos- 

sible, giving  them  a  warm,  sunny  situation  and 
plenty  of  water. 

3.  When  danger  of  frost  is  past,  transplant  out  of  doors  in 

the  position  where  the  castor  beans  are  to  remain 
through  the  season.  The  mass  of  earth  should  be 
moist  and  be  kept  unbroken  in  transplanting. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

i.  Plant  the  beans  out  of  doors,  one  in  a  place,  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain.  Cover  with  an  inch  of  soil  and 
keep  the  soil  well  watered.  Do  not  plant  until  the 
ground  is  fairly  warm. 


268        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

2.  When  the  seedlings  come  up,  give  plenty  of  water  and 
keep  the  soil  surface  well  tilled.  If  more  seeds  were 
sown  than  there  is  room  for  the  plants  to  mature 
vigorously,  thin  them  out  as  necessary. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date  of  coming  up.     Height.     Kind  of  leaves. 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Date  when  seedling  has  four  well-developed  leaves. 
Shape  and  size  of  leaves. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Color  and  structure  of  blos- 
soms. Height  of  plant.  Shape  and  size  of  leaves. 

5.  Fruiting  stage. 

Shape  and  size  of  fruit.  Appearance  of  outside  of 
pod.  Number,  shape,  and  size  of  seeds,  and  their 
arrangement  in  the  pod. 

6.  Conclusions  as  to  best  time  and  place  for  planting  the 

next  year. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

3.  Seedling  with  four  leaves. 

4.  Drawing  of  a  well-developed  leaf. 

5.  Drawing  of  a  flower. 

6.  Drawing  of  a  fruit. 

7.  Sketch  or  photograph  of  clump  of  plants. 


FLOWERS  FROM  SEED  269 

China  Asters 

STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seeds  of  the  varieties  selected  in  a  seed-bed  or 

box,  about  the  middle  of  March.  Cover  with  half 
an  inch  of  soil. 

2.  When  the  cotyledons  are  fully  developed  and  there  are 

two  leaves  additional,  transplant  into  two-and-a-half 
or  three-inch  pots  and  place  in  a  sunny  situation. 
Keep  well-watered,  and  as  the  weather  grows 
warmer,  give  all  the  light  and  air  possible. 

3.  As  soon  as  danger  from  frost  is  past,  transplant  into  the 

open  garden. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seeds  rather  thinly  in  drills  and  cover  with 

about  half  an  inch  of  fine  soil.  This  may  be  done 
before  danger  from  frost  is  past. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  come  up,  thin  to  about  an  inch  apart. 

Hoe  and  water  as  may  be  necessary. 

3.  When  the  young  plants  have  six  or  seven  leaves,  trans- 

plant to  the  garden  border  where  they  are  to  bloom. 
Keep  the  soil  well  cultivated  and  apply  water  during 
dry  periods. 

4.  If  any  plants  begin  to  show  disease  by  their  abnormally 

whitened  leaves  or  spindling  growth,  pull  them  up 
and  burn  them  at  once. 

5.  If  black  blister  beetles  appear,  to  feed  upon  the  buds, 

shake  them  two  or  three  times  a  day  into  shallow 
pans,  with  a  little  kerosene  and  water  on  the  bottom. 


27o       THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage. 

Date  of  coming  up.  Shape  of  cotyledons.  Shape  of 
root.  Shape  of  first  leaves. 

3.  Seedling,  second  stage. 

Describe  seedling  when  it  has  six  or  seven  true  leaves. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Type  of  blossom  structure. 
Colors.  Height  and  form  of  plant.  Length  of 
flowering  period.  Use  made  of  flowers.  Lasting 
qualities  of  cut  blooms.  Formation  and  collection 
of  seed. 

5.  Enemies. 

Description  of  diseased  plants.  Description  of  insect 
enemies.  Record  success  in  combating  enemies. 

6.  Insect  visitors. 

Write  a  list  of  the  insects  that  you  see  visiting  the 
flowers. 

7.  Changes  in  treatment  planned  for  another  season. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

\ 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage. 

3.  Seedling,  transplanting  stage. 

4.  Planting  plan  of  aster  bed,  showing   arrangement    of 

varieties. 

5.  Leaf  drawing  or  leaf  print,  showing  shape  and  outline 

of  the  leaf. 

6.  Branch  with  flower  and  flower  buds. 


FLOWERS  FROM   SEED  271 

Cosmos 
STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  seeds  in  seed-bed. 

2.  Transplant  seedlings,  when  first  true  leaves  appear,  to 

three-inch  pots.     Give  plenty  of  light. 

3.  When  danger  of  frost  is  past,  transplant  fifteen  inches 

apart  in  garden  border. 

4.  Stake  plants  when  about  two  feet  high. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  seeds  in  drill  half  an  inch  apart,  covering  with 

about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  of  fine  soil. 

2.  Transplant    to    garden    border,  fifteen   inches   apart, 

when  seedlings  have  four  true  leaves. 

3.  Stake  the  plants  when  about  two  feet  high, 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage. 

Date.  Height.  Shape  of  root.  Color  of  stem.  Shape 
and  size  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Seedling,  transplanting  stage. 

Date.     Height.     Number  and  shape  of  true  leaves. 

4.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Record  the  growth  of  the  plant  about  the  middle  of 
June. 

5.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Size  and  color  of  blossoms. 
Length  of  flowering  period.  Quantity  of  bloom. 
Height  of  plant. 

6.  Conclusions  as  to  culture  another  season. 


272        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage. 

3.  Seedling  with  four  true  leaves. 

4.  A  true  leaf. 

5.  Branch  with  flower  and  flower  buds. 

6.  Sketch  or  photograph  of  group  of  plants. 

Marigolds 
STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  broadcast  in  the  seed-bed. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  are  from  one  to  two  inches  high, 

transplant  to  small  paper  pots  and  place  in  a  sunny 
situation. 

3.  When  danger  from  frost  is  past,  transplant  out  of  doors, 

setting  the  tall  varieties  in  the  border  garden  and  the 
dwarf  sorts  in  beds  or  along  the  front  margin  of  the 
border  garden. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seeds  in  drills,  covering  with  about  half  an  inch 

of  fine  soil. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  are  up,  thin  to  about  an  inch  apart 

and  leave  until  four  or  five  true  leaves  have  developed. 
Then  transplant  to  a  permanent  situation. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage. 

Date.    Height.   Shape  of  root.    Color  of  stem.    Shape 
and  size  of  seed-leaves. 


FLOWERS   FROM   SED 

3.  Seedling,  transplanting  stage. 

Date.     Height.     Number  and  shape  of  true  leaves. 

4.  Planting  plan  of  bed  of  marigolds. 

5.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Watch  for  the  falling  of  the  seed-leaves  and  record 
the  height  and  number  of  true  leaves  of  the  plant 
at  that  time. 

6.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Height  of  plant.  Size,  color, 
and  odor  of  the  blossoms.  Profusion  of  bloom. 
Use  made  of  cut  flowers. 

7.  Plans  for  improvement  another  season. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage. 

3.  Seedling,  with  four  true  leaves. 

4.  Drawing  or  leaf  print  of  a  true  leaf. 

5.  Branch,  with  flower  and  flower  buds. 

Morning-glories  and  Moon- flower 
STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  the  seed  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep, 

either  in  a  seed-box  or  in  three-inch  paper  pots,  one 
seed  to  each  pot.  Before  planting,  in  the  case  of  the 
larger  seeds,  file  a  notch  in  one  corner  of  the  seed- 
coat. 

2.  When  the  plants  are  up,  watch  carefully  for  the  presence 

of  aphides,  which  are  very  likely  to  be  troublesome 
to  morning-glory  seedlings  in-doors.  When  any  of 
the  insects  appear,  spray  the  leaves  and  stems  with 


274        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

tobacco  solution  or  wash  the  insects  off  with  a  bit  of 
sponge  dipped  in  tobacco  solution,  or  even  strong 
soap-suds. 

3.  Give  the  seedlings  as  much  sunshine  and  air  as  possible, 
and  when  danger  from  frost  is  past,  transplant  out 
of  doors. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  When  danger  from  frost  is  past,  plant  the  seeds  out  of 

doors,  preferably  where  the  vines  are  to  grow.  Be- 
fore planting,  in  the  case  of  the  large  seeds  of  the 
Japanese  Morning-glories  and  the  moon-flower,  file 
a  notch  on  one  corner  of  the  seed-coat,  in  order  that 
germination  may  be  more  sure.  Cover  with  about 
an  inch  of  loose  soil  and  see  that  the  ground  is  kept 
moist  until  the  seedlings  appear. 

2.  The  plants  will  be  likely  to  come  up  in  about  a  week. 

As  soon  as  they  are  up,  or  perhaps  better,  even  be- 
fore the  seeds  are  planted,  provide  strings  or  other 
supports  for  the  vines  to  climb  upon. 

3.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  well  stirred  and  free  from 

weeds,  with  plenty  of  water  during  dry  weather,  and 
the  plants  will  grow  rapidly  and  produce  an  abun- 
dance of  bloom  in  a  comparatively  short  period. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Name  of  variety.     Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape, 
color. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date  of  coming  up.     Size  and  shape  of  cotyledons. 


FLOWERS  FROM   SEED  275 

3.  Seedling,  transplanting  stage. 

Date.     Height  of  plant.     Number  of  true  leaves, 
their  shape  and  size. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Structure  of  blossom.  Colors  of 
corolla.     Amount  of  bloom.     Hours  of  full  bloom. 

5.  Enemies  and  visitors. 

What  insects  attack  the  leaves  and  stems  ? 
How  were  their  attacks  checked  ? 
What  insects  can  you  see  visiting  the  blossoms? 
Where  is  the  nectar  secreted  ? 

From   the   structure   of   the   blossom,    would   self- 
pollination  be  possible? 

6.  Fruiting  stage. 

Structure  of  the  seed  pod.    Number  and  arrangement 
of  the  seeds  in  the  pod.     Quantity  of  seed  saved. 

7.  Note  of  experience  gained  to  govern  future  culture. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  cotyledon  stage,  or  leaf  print  of  cotyledon. 

3.  Seedling  with  four  leaves. 

4.  Drawing  or  leaf  print  of  a  well-developed  leaf. 

5.  Drawing  of  a  stem  and  blossom. 

6.  Drawing  of  a  seed  pod. 

7.  Sketch  or  photograph  of  vine-covered  trellis. 

Nasturtium  or  Trop&olum 
STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

i.  Fill  a  three-inch  paper  pot  with  soil.  Plant  in  the  mid- 
dle, an  inch  deep,  two  nasturtium  seeds.  Keep 
moist  and  in  a  warm  situation. 


276        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

2.  In  a  week  or  so  the  seedlings  should  come  up.     Place 

the  pot  in  as  sunny  a  situation  as  possible  and  watch 
it  grow.  When  the  seedlings  have  developed  three 
or  four  feaves,  pull  the  smallest  one  up  carefully  and 
draw  a  picture  of  it. 

3.  When  danger  of  frost  is  past,  remove  the  plant  from  the 

pot,  disturbing  the  roots  as  little  as  possible,  and 
transplant  into  your  garden. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Select  a  location  along  the  border  of  the  garden  or  some 

other  desirable  situation,  getting  the  soil  into  good 
condition,  and  plant  your  seeds,  one  in  a  place,  at 
least  six  inches  apart,  and  about  an  inch  deep.  Keep 
the  soil  moist  and  watch  for  the  appearance  of  the 
seedlings. 

2.  After  the  seedlings  come  up,  give  good  culture,  watering 

as  necessary,  and  keeping  the  ground  free  from  weeds. 

3.  When  the  blossoming  period  begins,  pick  the  blossoms 

before  they  can  go  to  seed.  You  will  thus  increase 
the  number  of  flowers. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.  Size  of  seed  with  covering.  Size, 
shape,  and  color  of  seed  when  covering  is  removed. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date  of  coming  up.  Height.  Kind  of  leaves. 
Position  of  seed  upon  the  young  seedling.  Shape 
of  root.  Size  and  shape  of  leaves.  Place  of  at- 
tachment of  the  petiole. 


FLOWERS   FROM   SEED  277 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Date  when  seedling  reaches  a  height  of  six  inches. 
Number  of  leaves. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.     Height  of  plant.     Descrip- 
tion of  blossom  according  to  this  outline: 

Flower-stalk. 

Sepals. 

Petals. 

Stamens. 

Pistil. 
Freedom  of  bloom.     Length  of  flowering  period. 

5.  Plans  for  succeeding  season  as  based  on  experience  here 

recorded. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds  before  removal  of  pods. 

2.  Seeds  separated  from  pods. 

3.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

4.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

5.  Drawing  or  leaf  print  of  a  well-developed  leaf. 

6.  Leaf-stalk  with  bud  and  flower. 

7.  Young  seed  pods  attached  to  stalk. 

8.  Sketch  of  growing  plants  in  garden. 

Pansies 
STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Early  in  March,  or  even  earlier  if  desired,  sow  the  seed 

in  the  in-door  seed-bed,  covering  lightly  and  keeping 
the  soil  moist,  but  not  too  wet. 

2.  Let  the  plants  get  a  good  start  in  the  seed-bed  before 

transplanting.     Then  transplant  to  individual  pots  or 


278        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

to  boxes,  giving  plenty  of  light  and  air,  and  not  keep- 
ing in  too  warm  a  place.  When  the  ground  outside 
is  in  good  working  condition,  transplant  to  the  per- 
manent bed,  putting  the  plants  eight  or  ten  inches 
apart. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Select  a  bit  of  seed-bed  where  the  soil  is  in  thoroughly 

good  condition  and  sow  the  seed  sparsely  either  in 
drills  or  broadcast,  covering  it  very  lightly  and  press- 
ing the  surface  firmly  with  a  hoe  or  bit  of  board.  If 
there  is  d«anger  of  drouth,  cover  the  surface  also 
lightly  with  straw  or  lawn  clippings,  or  something 
similar,  in  order  to  give  it  a  light  mulching.  Or  sow 
in  a  cold-frame  and  cover  with  cheese-cloth  stretched 
on  a  movable  frame. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  come  up,  gradually  remove  most  of 

the  mulching  and  see  that  the  bed  is  kept  moist. 

3.  After  the  seedlings  have  reached  a  fair  size,  transplant 

to  the  permanent  bed. 

4.  Keep  the  plants  watered,  if  possible,  and  pick  the  flowers 

frequently. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling. 

Date  of  coming  up.     Height.     Number  and  kind  of 
leaves. 

3.  Date  of  transplanting. 

Number,  size,  and  shape  of  leaves. 


FLOWERS  FROM  SEED  279 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Color  and  structure  of  blos- 
som. Range  of  color  and  color  combinations. 
Character  of  leaves  and  stems.  Use  of  flowers: 
description  of  effective  arrangements. 

5.  Fruiting  stage. 

Shape  and  size  of  seed  pod.  Manner  of  breaking 
open.  Number,  shape,  and  size  of  seeds  and  their 
arrangement  in  the  cells  of  the  pod.  Method  of 
selection  of  your  seed  for  sowing  next  year. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

3.  Seedling,  transplanting  stage. 

4.  Drawing  of  a  well-developed  leaf. 

5.  Drawing  of  a  flower. 

6.  Cross-section  of  a  flower,  side  view,  showing  arrange- 

ment of  sepals,  petals,  stamens,  and  pistil. 

7.  Drawing  of  a  seed  pod,  with  transverse  cross-section  of 

same. 

8.  Sketches  to  show  arrangement  of  flowers  for  display. 

Poppy 
STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Select  a  bed  or  border  and  get  the  soil  into  very  fine 

condition,  free  from  grass,  stones,  and  lumps  of  earth. 

2.  Mix  the  seed  with  sand  or  corn-meal,  and  then  sow 

thinly,  either  broadcast  or  in  a  shallow  drill,  covering 
either  by  pouring  on  water  from  a  watering-pot  or 
raking  the  soil  surface  very  lightly.  Or  sift  on  soil 
through  a  fine  sieve. 


28o  THE    SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

3.  When  the  seedlings  are  about  two  or  three  inches  high, 

thin  to  six  or  eight  inches  apart  in  the  case  of  the 
Shirley  and  other  slender  growing  forms,  and  to  a 
foot  apart  in  the  case  of  the  more  robust  forms. 

4.  Keep  the  soil  surface  cultivated,  pulling  out  all  weeds. 

5.  As  the  blossoms  appear,  remove  the  seed  pods  as  fast 

as  the  petals  drop  away,  leaving  a  few  of  the  best 
flowers  to  develop  seed  for  your  next  season's  sowing. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date.     Height.     Shape  of  root.     Size  and  shape  of 
leaves. 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Date  of  thinning.     Height  of  plant.     Number  and 
shape  of  leaves. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.     Height  of  flower-stalks.     De- 
scription of  blossom  according  to  this  outline: 
Stalk. 
Sepals. 
Petals. 
Stamens. 
Pistil. 

5.  Conclusions  as  to  culture  details  advisable  the  next  year. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 


FLOWERS   FROM  SEED  281 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

4.  Drawing  or  leaf  print  of  a  well-developed  leaf. 

5.  Flower-stalk  with  bud  and  flower. 

6.  Seed  pods. 

Portulaca 
STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

i.  Choose  a  hot,  dry  situation  for  the  portulaca  bed. 
Scatter  the  seed  broadcast,  covering  rather  lightly. 
When  the  seedlings  appear,  weed  carefully  and  thin 
gradually  until  they  are  eight  or  ten  inches  apart, 
stirring  the  surface  between  occasionally  until  it  is 
shaded  by  the  growth  of  the  plants. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling. 

Date  of  coming  up.  Height.  Number  and  kind  of 
leaves. 

3.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Habit  of  plant.  Character 
of  stems  and  leaves.  Color.  Structure  of  blossom. 

4.  Fruiting  stage. 

Shape  and  size  of  seed  pod.  Manner  of  breaking 
open.  Shape,  size,  and  approximate  number  of 
seeds. 

5.  Plans  for  treatment  another  year. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling. 


232        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

3.  Drawing  of  stem  with  flower  on  end. 

4.  Drawing  of  seed  pod. 

Sweet  Pea 

STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  A  few  seeds  of  the  earliest  varieties  may  very  well  be 

planted  in  three-inch  paper  pots  about  March  first. 
They  will  soon  germinate,  and  should  be  watched 
and  watered  carefully. 

2.  When  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  April,  transplant 

to  the  open  garden,  choosing  a  warm  situation  where 
the  plants  will  be  likely  to  grow  rapidly. 

3.  Very  soon  after  thus  transplanting,  furnish  some  kind 

of  support  for  the  vines. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Choose  a  situation,  if  practicable,  where  the  row  of 

sweet  peas  can  run  north  and  south,  and  where  the 
soil  is  fairly  rich  and  not  too  light.  Hollow  out  a 
single  or  double  furrow  about  four  inches  deep.  In 
the  bottom  of  this  sow  the  seeds  an  inch  or  two 
apart,  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible.  Cover  with 
one  inch  of  soil,  leaving  the  rest  of  the  trench  open, 
to  be  filled  in  later. 

2.  If  the  weather  in  spring  should  be  dry,  water  occasion- 

ally, giving  an  abundance  each  time,  but  not  watering 
very  often. 

3.  As  the  plants  grow,  fill  in  the  trench  gradually,  always 

keeping  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  a  powdery  condi- 
tion. 


FLOWERS  FROM   SEED  283 

4.  Watch  for  cutworms.     Whenever  plants  are  found  cut 

off,  hunt  in  the  soil  for  the  worm,  or  caterpillar,  and 
kill  it. 

5.  When  the  plants  are  about  four  or  five  inches  high,  fur- 

nish some  kind  of  support  for  them  to  grow  upon. 
Birch  or  other  shrubby  branches  are  especially  good 
if  they  are  about  five  feet  high.  Wire  netting  is 
frequently  used,  although  it  may  not  be  desirable 
in  southern  localities. 

6.  Water  throughout  the  season  when  the  weather  is  dry, 

keeping  the  soil  surface  well  stirred,  but  not  digging 
deep. 

7.  Pick  off  the  blossoms  as  they  appear,  letting  no  seed 

pods  form,  for  if  the  plant  is  allowed  to  ripen  seed 
pods,  it  will  stop  blossoming. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.     Size,  shape,  color. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date  of  coming  up.  Comparative  height  of  stem 
with  length  of  root.  Shape  of  root.  Shape  and 
size  of  first  leaves.  Position  of  seed. 

3.  Seedling,  second  stage. 

Describe  seedling  when  six  to  ten  inches  high,  telling 
shape  of  stem,  character  of  leaves,  shape  and  size 
of  stipules,  length  and  position  of  tendrils. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Description  of  blossom. 
Height  of  plant.  Use  of  blossoms.  Description  of 
best  arrangement. 


284        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

5.  Insect  visitors. 

Name  the  insects  you  see  visiting  the  flowers. 

Do  bumblebees  light  astride  the  keel  or  ride  upon 

one  of  the  wings? 
Do  they  come  in  contact  with  the  anthers  and  stigma 

of  the  flower? 

6.  Conclusions  as  to  any  changes  in  culture  desirable. 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds.  f 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

4.  Leaf,  showing  leaflets  and  tendrils. 

5.  Branch,  with  flower  and  flower  buds. 

6.  Sketches  of  garden  plan;  method  of  supporting  vines; 

vines  in  bloom. 

7.  Sketches  of  most  pleasing  arrangement  of  sweet  peas  in 

vase. 

Zinnia 

STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  in  the  seed-bed  in  rows  or  broadcast, 

covering  half  an  inch  deep. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  trans- 

plant to  small  pots. 

3.  When  the  plants  are  started  so  early  that  the  roots  fill 

the  small  pots  before  it  is  time  to  set  the  plants  out- 
doors, transfer  to  a  larger  pot. 

4.  When  the  ground  is  in  good  condition  and  the  weather 

well  settled,  transplant  out  of  doors. 


FLOWERS   FROM   SEED  285 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seeds  sparsely  in  drills  a  foot  or  more  apart,  cov- 

ering with  about  an  inch  of  soil.     Keep  well  watered. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  come  up,  thin  gradually,  so  that  at 

the  last  thinning  the  plants  will  stand  ten  inches 
apart  if  they  are  dwarf  varieties,  fifteen  or  twenty 
inches  apart  if  they  are  medium-sized  varieties,  and 
two  feet  or  more  apart  if  they  are  the  tall  varieties. 
Plan  to  have  the  space  completely  occupied  by  the 
flowers  and  foliage  when  the  plants  are  fully  de- 
veloped, and  record  your  success  or  failure  in  this 
as  a  guide  for  another  season. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed. 

Date  of  planting.  Size,  shape,  and  color  of  each  of 
the  two  types  of  seeds. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

Date  of  coming  up.  Height  when  described.  Kind, 
shape,  and  size  of  leaves. 

3.  Seedling,  later  stage. 

Date  when  seedling  has  six  well-developed  leaves. 
Height  of  plant. 

4.  Blossoming  stage. 

Date  of  first  blossom.  Color,  structure,  and  size  of 
blossoms.  Height  of  plant.  Shape,  size,  and  ar- 
rangement of  leaves. 

5.  Fruiting  stage. 

Let  a  few  blossoms  go  to  seed.  Harvest  the  seed 
and  notice  the  number,  shape,  and  size  of  those  in 
a  single  head. 


286  THE    SCHOOL    GARDEN    BOOK 

DRAWINGS  FOR  BOOKLETS. 

1.  Seeds:  examples  of  both  types. 

2.  Seedling,  first  stage. 

3.  Seedling  with  six  leaves. 

4.  Drawing  or  leaf  print  of  a  well-developed  leaf. 

5.  Drawing  of  stem,  leaves,  and  flower. 

6.  Plan  of  arrangement  of  varieties  and  colors  in  zinnia 

bed. 


XVI 

VEGETABLES 

Beet 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  As  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  is  in  good  condition 

to  work,  sow  the  seed  sparsely  in  rows  twelve  or 
fifteen  inches  apart,  covering  about  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  deep.  To  secure  a  very  early  crop,  sow 
early  in  cold-frame  or  house,  and  transplant. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  appear,  stir  the  soil  surface  between 

the  rows,  and  weed  the  rows  as  early  as  practicable. 

3.  When  the  young  plants  have  developed  two  or  three 

seed-leaves,  thin  to  about  three  inches  apart.  If 
taken  up  without  injuring  roots,  beet  plants  may  be 
transplanted  successfully. 

4.  During  the  following  weeks  keep  the  plants  free  from 

weeds  and  the  surface  between  the  rows  frequently 
tilled. 

5.  As  soon  as  the  young  beets  are  about  two  and  one-half 

to  three  inches  in  diameter  pull  the  larger  ones  for 
use.  Continue  pulling,  as  the  beets  become  large 
enough,  until  the  crop  is  harvested.  Remove  the 
cut  leaves  and  all  discarded  beets  to  a  heap  or  some 
place  where  they  will  not  permit  the  spores  of  various 
fungous  diseases  to  develop. 
287 


288  THE   SCHOOL  GARDEN   BOOK 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.    Cut  one  of  the  "seeds"  in 

two,  and  you  will  find  that  this  is  really  a  fruit  with 
two  or  three  tiny  seeds  inside  of  it.  Date  of  plant- 
ing. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up  of  seedlings.    Size  and  shape  of  seed- 

leaves. 

3.  Date  of  thinning.     Number  of  true  leaves  then  present. 

4.  Date  of  first  harvest.     Number  of  beets  gathered. 

5.  Date  of  last  harvest. 

6.  Comparison  of  varieties:  conclusions. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  cross-section  of  " seeds. " 

2.  Seedling  with  seed-leaves  well  developed. 

3.  Seedling  at  time  of  thinning. 

4.  Fully  developed  beet  with  or  without  the  leaves. 

5.  Plan  of  vegetable  garden.     Plan  of  plot  of  beets. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  the  story  of  your  beets  and  how  they  grew.  What  is 
the  difference  between  the  beet  seed  that  you  plant 
and  the  radish  seed  that  you  plant?  When  does 
the  beet  blossom?  Is  it  an  annual  or  a  biennial? 
Make  the  story  more  interesting  by  telling  your 
schoolmates  that  the  beet  originally  was  a  wild  plant 
related  to  our  common  pigweed,  and  that  it  has 
been  in  process  of  improvement  for  more  than  two 
thousand  years.  Learn  more  about  this  in  the  ency- 
clopedias or  books  on  horticulture  at  the  library. 


VEGETABLES  289 

Bush  Beans 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  As  soon  in  spring  as  danger  from  frost  is  past,  sow  the 

seed  about  one  inch  deep,  with  the  hills  about  one 
foot  apart  in  the  row,  or  in  a  continuous  row,  with 
the  beans  about  one  inch  apart.  The  rows  should 
be  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  apart.  Three  weeks  later 
make  another  planting  for  succession. 

2.  When  the  plants  come  up,  stir  the  soil  surface  and  pull 

up  any  weeds  that  may  appear  in  the  row.  Do  not 
till  the  soil  when  the  leaves  are  wet,  as  this  is  believed 
to  increase  the  danger  from  fungous  diseases. 

3.  The  only  subsequent  treatment  is  to  keep  the  ground 

frequently  stirred  and  free  from  weeds.  The  plants 
will  blossom  and  set  the  pods  with  very  little  care. 

4.  As  soon  as  some  pods  are  of  eatable  size,  gather  them, 

and  repeat  the  picking  until  the  crop  is  gone.  Then 
pull  up  the  vines  and  burn  or  bury  them,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  development  of  the  spores  of  fungous  dis- 
eases. Seed  may  be  saved  by  allowing  pods  on 
best  plants,  or  on  part  of  best  row,  to  ripen  their 
beans. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seeds:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting.    Name 

of  variety. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Appearance  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  of  blossoming.     Abundance  and  kind  of  insect 

visitors  to  the  flowers. 


290  THE   SCHOOL   GARDEN  BOOK 

4.  Date  of  first  picking;  of  last  picking. 

5.  Comparison  of  varieties. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds  showing  external  and  internal  structure. 

2.  Seedling  showing  seed-leaves  and  first  true  leaf. 

3.  Blossoms. 

4.  Pods. 

5.  Garden  plans. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  experience  in  raising  beans. 
What  was  the  market  price  of  string  beans  at  the 
time  you  gathered  the  first  part  of  your  crop  ?  Can 
you  estimate  your  income  from  a  quarter  of  an  acre 
of  beans  grown  as  you  grew  yours?  Calculate 
wages  per  hour  of  labor  by  comparing  net  income 
with  time  spent  on  planting,  culture,  and  harvesting. 

Cabbage 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Soon  after  the  ground  is  in  good  condition  in  spring, 

sow  the  cabbage  seed  in  a  shallow  drill,  covering  only 
lightly.  A  cold-frame  allows  earlier  sowing. 

2.  The  young  seedlings  will  soon  come  up,  and  should  be 

transplanted  when  the  first  true  leaf  is  well  developed. 
They  may  be  transplanted  to  another  part  of  the 
same  seed-bed  or,  if  the  ground  where  the  main  crop 
is  to-be  grown  is  ready,  they  may  be  transplanted 
directly  there.  The  soil  must  be  very  rich. 

3.  Plant  in  rows  at  least  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 


VEGETABLES  291 

4.  For  subsequent  culture  keep  the  ground  well  tilled,  free 
from  weeds,  and,  in  case  of  very  dry  weather,  give 
the  plants  a  liberal  supply  of  water  occasionally. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Seeds :  shape,  size,  and  color.     Date  of  planting.    Name 

of  variety. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Shape  and  size  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  of  transplanting.     Number  of  true  leaves. 

4.  Date  of  setting  out.     Size  of  plants. 

5.  Caterpillar  enemies:  description;  injuries  caused;  means 

taken  to  destroy  them. 

6.  Date  of  gathering  first  head,  and  date  of  clearing  ground. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedling  with  seed-leaves. 

3.  Seedlings  at  time  of  first  transplanting. 

4.  Fully  developed  head. 

5.  Insect  pests:  butterfly  egg;  caterpillar;  chrysalis. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  your  experience  in  growing  cabbage.  Do  you  con- 
sider it  a  difficult  crop  to  grow  ? 

Carrots 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  sparsely,  in  rows  about  one-half  inch  deep. 

Sow  in  the  same  rows  a  few  radish  seeds  to  mark  the 
rows. 

2.  When  the  radishes  are  up,  hoe  the  soil  between  the  rows, 

and  when  the  carrots  come  up,  weed  carefully. 


292         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

3.  After  the  carrots  are  well  started,  thin  to  about  one  inch 

apart,  leaving  the  more  vigorous  plants  and  pulling 
up  those  less  vigorous. 

4.  The  only  later  treatment  required  is  that  of  keeping  the 

soil  surface  loose  and  free  from  weeds  by  frequent 
tillage. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up. 

3.  Date  of  first  weeding. 

4.  Date  of  first  pulling. 

5.  Date  of  main  harvest. 

6.  Description  of  caterpillar  pest. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  some  of  them  as  seen  through  a  magnifying  glass. 

2.  Seedlings  as  they  appear  at  the  time  of  thinning. 

3.  The  full-sized  carrot,  with  or  without  the  leaves,  at  the 

time  it  is  pulled  for  use. 

4.  Caterpillars    and    their    transformations;    appearance 

when  touched. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  your  experience  in  growing  carrots.     In  what  ways 
are  carrots  utilized  ?    When  does  the  carrot  blossom  ? 

Cucumber 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

i.  Mark  off  hills  four  feet  apart  each  way,  dig  out  several 
shovelfuls  of  earth,   then   fill  the   hole  thus   made 


VEGETABLES  293 

with  old,  well-pulverized  barn-yard  fertilizer.  Cover 
with  a  few  inches  of  soil,  but  do  not  have  the  surface  . 
of  the  hill  higher  than  the  surrounding  soil  surface. 
Plant  a  dozen  or  fifteen  cucumber  seeds,  scattering 
them  over  a  circular  surface  a  foot  or  more  in  diam- 
eter, so  that  plants  will  come  up  in  all  parts  of  the 
hill.  Cover  with  about  one  inch  of  soil. 

2  As  soon  as  the  young  seedlings  appear,  watch  carefully 
for  striped  beetles  and  black  squash  bugs.  If  these 
pests  are  very  thick,  apply  a  shovelful  of  tobacco 
powder  to  each  hill  or  dust  with  plaster;  or,  perhaps 
a  better  way,  protect  the  hills  with  mosquito  netting 
held  up  by  supports  or  frames.  In  most  sections  of 
the  country  the  raising  of  cucumbers  or  other  related 
plants  involves  a  constant  fight  against  these  insect 
enemies. 

3.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  ground  well  tilled  and  stirred, 
and  do  not  thin  the  plants  until  they  begin  to  crowd 
so  that  there  will  be  danger  of  disturbing  the  roots  of 
those  left  when  you  pull  up  those  that  are  to  be 
taken  out.  Thin  finally  to  about  four  plants  to 
a  hill,  having  the  plants  left  well  distributed  in  the 
hill. 

THE  STORY. 

Connect  your  records  of  culture  and  accounts  of  insect 
pests  to  make  an  instructive  story.  Illustrate  it  with 
sketches.  In  closing,  summarize  your  opinions  as  to 
the  best  means  of  securing  good  results  another 
year. 


294         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

Lettuce 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  As  soon  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  sow  the 

lettuce  seed  sparsely  in  a  shallow  drill  and  cover  with 
about  one-half  inch  of  fine  soil. 

2.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  appear,  stir  the  surface  of 

the  soil  between  the  rows  and  keep  the  rows  free 
from  weeds. 

3.  When  the  first  true  leaf  is  fairly  well  developed,  thin  the 

plants  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows;  or  the  plants 
may  be  sown  in  cold-frame  and  transplanted. 

4.  The  only  subsequent  treatment  needed  will  be  frequent 

stirring  of  the  soil  and  pulling  of  weeds.     Gather  the 
heads  as  soon  as  they  reach  full  size. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seeds:  shape,  size,  and  color.     Date  of  planting.    Name 

of  variety. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Appearance  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  of  thinning.     How  does  the  first  true  leaf  differ 

from  the  seed-leaves? 

4.  Date  of  gathering  first  heads. 

5.  Date  of  gathering  last  heads. 

6.  Comparison  of  varieties,  and  conclusions. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedlings  with  two  seed-leaves. 

3.  The  first  true  leaf. 

4.  Fully  developed  head. 


VEGETABLES  295 

THE  STORY. 

Write  the  story  of  your  lettuce  and  how  it  grew.  What 
was  the  market  price  of  lettuce  at  the  time  you  gath- 
ered the  first  heads  ?  At  this  price,  how  much  would 
you  receive  for  a  crop  from  a  quarter  of  an  acre  of 
lettuce  in  rows  fifteen  inches  apart,  estimating  the 
plants  as  being  set  ten  inches  apart  ? 

Okra  or  Gumbo 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  three  or  four  seeds  in  hills  a  foot  or  eighteen 

inches  apart,  covering  one-half  or  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  deep. 

2.  When  the  plants  come  up,  pull  out  any  weeds  that  may 

appear,  and  thin  to  one  or  two  plants  to  a  hill. 

3.  Later  treatment  consists  only  of  keeping  the  ground 

well  tilled  and  free  from  weeds. 

4.  Pull  the  pods  before  they  get  too  large:  they  are  used 

chiefly  for  thickening  soups. 

Onions  from  Seed 
STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  in  seed-boxes,  in  drills  one-half  inch  deep 

and  one  inch  apart.     Cover  with  one-half  inch  of 
fine  soil  and  water  carefully. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  come  up,  give  as  much  air  and  sun- 

shine as  possible  and  avoid  too  warm  a  place.    Water 
carefully. 

3.  When  the  little  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  cut 

off  the  tops  about  one  inch  above  the  soil  surface, 
This  is  to  make  them  grow  more  stocky. 


296         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

4.  About  two  weeks  later  cut  off  the  tops  again. 

5.  When  the  outside  garden  is  in  good  condition  for  plant- 

ing, transplant  the  seedlings  from  the  seed-box  into 
rows,  setting  the  plants  only  a  little  deeper  than  they 
were  in  the  seed-box,  and  about  one  inch  apart  in 
the  rows.  The  rows  should  be  twelve  or  fifteen 
inches  apart. 

6.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  well  tilled  and  free  from 

weeds. 

7.  When  the  onions  are  matured,  pull  them  during  dry 

weather,  and  leave  them  on  the  surface  of  the  ground 
to  ripen. 

STARTING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seeds  sparsely  in  shallow  drills  and  cover  with 

about  one-half  inch  of  fine  soil.  Rows  should  be 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  apart. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  are  up^weed  the  rows  carefully  and 

thin  the  onions  to  about  one-half  inch  apart. 

3.  About  two  weeks  later  weed  again,  and  thin  to  one  inch 

apart. 

4.  For  the  rest  of  the  season  treat  as  outlined  in  paragraphs 

six  and  seven  above. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Method  by  which  the  leaf  breaks 

through  the  ground. 

3.  Date  of  transplanting. 

4.  Date  of  harvest. 


VEGETABLES  297 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedling  as  it  first  appears. 

3.  Seedling  when  leaf  straightens  out. 

4.  Seedling  at  time  of  transplanting. 

5.  Mature  bulbs. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  experience  in  raising  onions. 

Onions  from  Sels 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  the  sets,  one  inch  apart,  in  rows  twelve  inches 

apart,  just  burying  each  set  and  pushing  the  earth 
firmly  down  beside  it. 

2.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  stirred  frequently,  and  pull 

out  the  weeds  between  the  plants. 

3.  When  the  new  onions  are  about  one-half  inch  or  more 

in  diameter,  pull  and  tie  in  bunches  of  a  dozen  or 
fifteen  each. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Onion  sets.    Size,  shape,  and  color.     Name  of  variety. 

Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  hoeing  and  weeding, 

3.  Date  of  pulling. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Two  or  three  onion  sets. 

2.  A  plant  at  the  time  it  is  pulled. 


298  THE   SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  the  story  of  your  experience  in  growing  onions  from 
sets.  What  advantage  do  you  gain  by  planting  sets 
instead  of  seeds  ? 

Parsley 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Soak  the  seed  in  warm  but  not  hot  water  a  few  hours 

before  planting  it. 

2.  As  early  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  plant 

in  rows,  sowing  the  seed  rather  sparsely  in  the  rows. 
Sow  also  enough  radish  seed  to  mark  the  rows  when 
the  plants  appear,  and  cover  with  at  least  one-half 
inch  of  fine  soil. 

3.  When  the  radish  plants  come  up,  stir  the  soil  surface 

beside  the  rows,  but  do  not  disturb  the  rows  them- 
selves. The  parsley  plants  will  probably  not  come 
up  until  some  time  after  the  appearance  of  the 
radishes. 

4.  When  the  parsley  plants  have  one  or  two  true  leaves 

well  developed,  thin  to  about  four  inches  apart  in 
the  row,  and  pull  up  the  radishes.  Parsley  may  be 
sown  in  a  seed-bed  and  transplanted. 

5.  The  only  subsequent  treatment  needed  is  to  keep  the 

plants  free  from  weeds  and  the  surface  of  the  ground 
frequently  tilled.  Do  not  pull  the  parsley  leaves  too 
soon,  and  do  not  at  any  one  time  take  all  the  leaves 
from  the  plant. 

6.  In  late  October  take  up  several  vigorous  plants  and 

transfer  to  a  cold-frame  or  to  a  box  in  the  house. 


VEGETABLES  299 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seeds:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting.    Name 

of  variety. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Shape  and  size  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  of  thinning.     How  do  the  first  true  leaves  differ 

from  the  seed-leaves? 

4.  Date  when  leaves  are  large  enough  to  pull. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedlings  showing  seed-leaves  and  one  true  leaf  well 

developed. 

3.  Parsley  plant  when  ready  to  furnish  leaves  for  garnish- 

ing. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  experience  in  growing 
parsley.     When  does  the  plant  blossom? 

Parsnip 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Plant  the  seed  in  rows  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  apart. 

Sow  thickly  and  cover  with  at  least  one-half  inch  of 
soil.  Be  sure  to  get  the  seed  started  early  in  the 
spring. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  appear,  stir  the  soil  surface  between 

the  rows  and  pull  out  any  weeds  that  grow  among 
the  plants. 

3.  As  soon  as  one  or  two  true  leaves  have  developed,  thin 

to  four  inches  apart,  of  course  removing  all  weeds  at 
the  same  time. 


3oo  THE   SCHOOL   GARDEN   BOOK 

4.  The  subsequent  treatment  is  simply  to  keep  the  plants 

free  from  weeds  and  the  soil  surface  well  stirred. 
This  must  extend  all  through  the  summer  months 
and  into  early  autumn. 

5.  Late  in  autumn  some  of  the  roots  may  be  pulled  for  use 

and  the  others  left  in  the  ground  until  the  following 
spring.  In  the  latter  case  it  is  desirable  to  cover 
them,  as  winter  sets  in,  with  a  few  inches  of  autumn 
leaves  held  in  place  with  some  coarse  rubbish.  Then 
in  spring  the  roots  will  be  found  in  good  condition 
when  dug. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seeds:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up  of  seedlings.     Shape  and  size  of 

seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  of  thinning. 

4.  Dates  of  autumn  harvest;  of  spring  harvest. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling  with  seed-leaves  well  developed. 

3.  Seedling  at  time  of  transplanting. 

4.  Parsnip  root  when  pulled  to  eat. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  of  your  experience  in  growing  parsnips. 
When  does  the  plant  blossom?  Is  it  an  annual  or 
biennial  ? 

Peas 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

i.  Sow  the  hard  blue  peas,  of  which  the  variety  Alaska 
is  a  good  example,  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the 


VEGETABLES  301 

ground  can  be  worked.  The  wrinkled  varieties  of 
peas  should  be  planted  about  two  weeks  later. 

2.  Plant  in  rows  about  one  inch  deep,  placing  the  seed 

quite  thickly  for  the  low-growing  varieties  and  more 
sparsely  for  the  tall-growing  sorts.  The  distance 
between  the  rows  should  also  vary  with  the  height  of 
the  variety.  The  low-growing  sorts  may  be  planted  in 
rows  twelve  inches  apart,  while  the  taller  ones  should 
be  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart. 

3.  When  the  plants  come  up,  hoe  between  the  rows  to  kill 

weeds  and  save  moisture.  Very  little  other  atten- 
tion is  necessary  for  the  low-growing  sorts. 

4.  Tall-growing  varieties  will  need  some  sort  of  support. 

Various  forms  of  bushes  may  be  used,  or  wire  netting 
may  sometimes  be  substituted.  An  excellent  way  is 
to  set  in  place  a  row  of  birch  or  other  brush  before 
the  seed  is  sown,  and  then  plant  the  peas  in  rows 
along  each  side. 

5.  After  the  peas  are  up,  keep  the  soil  between  the  rows 

well  tilled,  and  pull  out  the  weeds  that  may  appear 
among  the  peas. 

6.  As  soon  as  the  pods  are  well  formed,  watch  them  daily 

to  determine  when  they  are  ready  to  pick.  The 
varieties  of  the  Alaska  type  should  be  gathered  rather 
early,  as  they  become  hard  and  of  poor  quality  if 
left  to  grow  too  long. 

7.  As  soon  as  the  pods  are  all  harvested,  pull  up  the  vines 

and  burn  them,  and  thus  prevent  the  development 
of  disease  that  might  otherwise  take  place.  Plant 
bush  beans,  endive,  turnips,  or  other  succession 
crops. 


302  THE   SCHOOL   GARDEN  BOOK 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up. 

3.  Date  of  first  blossom. 

4.  Date  of  first  picking;  last  picking. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seed  and  seedlings  with  roots  attached  as  the  plant 

breaks  through  the  ground. 

3.  Young  plant  as  it  appears  above  ground  when  four 

inches  high. 

4.  Leaf  and  tendril. 

5.  Blossom. 

6.  Pod. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  the  story  of  your  experience  in  growing  peas.  How 
large  a  crop  did  you  get?  What  are  your  plans  for 
growing  peas  another  year  ? 

Pepper 

STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  in  seed-boxes  late  in  March.     Water  and 

keep  in  a  warm  place. 

2.  When  the  seedlings  have  one  or  two  true  leaves  in  addi- 

tion to  the  seed-leaves,  transplant  into  two-and-one- 
half-inch  paper  pots,  and  place  in  a  warm,  sunny 
situation;  or  plunge  in  soil  of  cold-frame.  Give  as 
much  air  and  light  as  possible,  and  water  often 
enough  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  but  not  wet. 


VEGETABLES  303 

3.  When  all  danger  of  frost  is  past,  plant  out  of  doors, 

placing  the  plants  at  least  one  foot  apart. 

4.  Keep  the  soil  in  the  garden  well  tilled  and,  if  practicable, 

water  occasionally  during  dry  weather. 

5.  Select  the  best  early  fruit  from  a  vigorous  plant,  for 

seed. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  shape,  size,  and  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up. 

3.  Date  of  transplanting,  number  of  leaves,  and  height  of 

plant. 

4.  Date  of  blossoming. 

5.  Date  of  first  ripe  fruit. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seed. 

2.  Seedling  with  seed-leaves  of  full  size. 

3.  Seedling  when  transplanted. 

4.  Seedling  when  planted  out  of  doors. 

5.  Leaf  and  blossom. 

6.  Fruit:  appearance  as  whole;  sectional  view. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  experience  in  growing  pep- 
pers, and  use  your  drawings  for  illustrations;  or, 
write  a  letter  to  a  friend  telling  him  just  how  to 
grow  peppers  from  seed,  giving  him  the  benefit 
of  your  experience  as  to  details  of  culture,  and 
using  plans  and  other  drawings  to  make  your  ad- 
vice clear. 


304  THE   SCHOOL   GARDEN   BOOK 

Potato 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  If  you  wish  to  get  an  extra  early  crop  of  potatoes,  start 

sprouts  on  the  tubers  in-doors  in  the  way  described 
on  pages  129  and  130. 

2.  Cut  the  tubers  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  plant  in  hills 

fifteen  inches  apart,  jn  rows  eighteen  inches  or  two 
feet  apart.  Cover  rather  deeply.  Or  plant  ten  inches 
apart  in  a  trench  four  to  six  inches  deep,  covering  two 
inches  at  first. 

3.  As  soon  as  the  plant  comes  up,  stir  the  soil  surface  and 

keep  watch  for  potato  beetles.  At  first  pick  off  all 
these  beetles  and  kill  them  by  dropping  them  into  a 
pan  containing  a  little  kerosene  and  water.  If  planted 
in  a  trench,  gradually  fill  it  until  the  soil  is  level. 

4.  When  the  vines  are  six  or  eight  inches  high,  spray  with 

a  combination  of  Bordeaux  mixture  to  which  has 
been  added  Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead. 

5.  When  the  blossom  buds  appear,  hill  the  plants  by  draw- 

ing up  the  soil  toward  them  from  between  the  rows. 
Spray  again  about  two  weeks  after  the  first  spraying. 

6.  Keep  the  rows  free  from  weeds,  but  do  not  disturb  the 

roots. 

7.  Harvest  the  main  crop  when  the  plants  commence  to 

die  down.  Thrust  a  fork  under  the  hill,  or  loosen 
from  the  side  with  hoe,  being  careful  neither  to  cut 
nor  overlook  any. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

i*  Date  of  planting.     Name  of  variety. 
2.  Date  of  coming  up. 


VEGETABLES  305 

3.  Date  of  spraying. 

4.  Date  of  blossoming.     Date  of  second  spraying. 

5.  Date  of  harvest;  amount  of  yield  from  largest  tubers. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  A  piece  of  tuber  like  those  planted,  showing  number  of 

eyes. 

2.  Well-developed  potato  leaf. 

3.  Blossoms. 

4.  An  average  sized  tuber. 

5.  Dig  up  the  plant  deeply  and  carefully,  and  make  a  sketch 

or  diagram,  showing  the  relation  of  tubers  to  roots 
and  leaf  parts. 

THE  STORY. 

Write  an  account  of  your  experience  in  growing  potatoes, 
telling  how  to  plant  and  cultivate  them,  what  enemies 
you  found  to  harm  the  vines,  how  often  you  sprayed 
them,  and  how  large  a  yield  you  obtained.  At  the 
rate  the  potatoes  yielded,  how  many  bushels  would 
be  obtained  from  an  acre  ?  And  at  the  market  price 
at  the  time  you  harvested  your  crops,  how  much 
would  the  potatoes  from  such  an  acre  bring  in  ? 

Radish 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  apart  in 

drills   about   one-half  of  an  inch  deep  and  twelve 
inches  apart.     Cover  with  half  an  inch  of  soil. 

2.  When  the  plants  are  up,  weed  carefully  and  thin  to  one 

inch  or  three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart. 


306         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

3.  Keep  the  soil  between  the  rows  hoed  freely  and,  if  prac- 

ticable, water  the  plants  if  the  weather  is  dry. 

4.  Pull  the  radishes  as  soon  as  they  are  of  good  size,  and 

do  not  leave  them  so  long  that  they  become  stringy, 
or  hollow  and  pithy. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  sizes,  shape,  and  color. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Appearance  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  when  the  first  two  true  leaves  reach  the  length  of 

one-half  inch  or  more. 

4.  Date  when  first  radishes  are  pulled,  and  date  when  last 

radishes  are  pulled. 

5.  Date  when  maggots  appeared;  amount  of  damage. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedlings  when  seed-leaves  are  of  full  size. 

3.  Seedlings  when  first  two  true  leaves  are  one-half  inch 

long  or  longer. 

4.  Radishes  when  pulled. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  experience  in  growing  rad- 
ishes. If  written,  bind  it  in  your  school  garden  book 
with  the  drawings  to  illustrate  the  story.  If  you  sold 
bunches  to  your  neighbors,  include  an  account  of 
expenses  and  profits. 

Salsify  or  Vegetable  Oyster 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

i.  Sow  the  seed  in  drills  at  least  one-half  inch  deep  early 
in  spring. 


VEGETABLES  307 

2.  When  the  young  plants  come  up,  stir  the  soil  surface, 

and  after  the  first  true  leaves  appear,  weed  and  thin 
to  three  inches  apart,  being  careful  to  distinguish 
the  seedlings  from  grass. 

3.  Give  frequent  tillage  and  keep  the  plants  free  from 

weeds  throughout  the  season. 

4.  Some  of  the  roots  may  be  dug  in  autumn  and  others 

left  in  the  ground  until  spring,  in  the  latter  case 
being  covered  with  leaves  or  litter  to  prevent 
alternate  freezing  and  thawing  at  the  surface  of  the 
ground. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Is  the  "seed"  an  achene? 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Shape  and  size  of  seed-leaves. 

3.  Date  of  thinning.     Number  of  true  leaves. 

4.  Dates  of  harvesting. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling  with  seed-leaves  well  developed. 

3.  Seedling  at  time  of  thinning. 

4.  Full-grown  root. 

THE  STORY. 

Write  the  story  of  how  you  grew  a  crop  of  salsify.  When 
does  it  blossom  ?  Is  it  an  annual  or  biennial  ?  Do 
you  see  any  relation  in  root  or  plant  to  the  common 
chicory  found  along  the  roadside?  Why  is  salsify 
called  "vegetable  oyster"?  What  have  you  found 
to  be  the  best  ways  to  cook  the  roots  ? 


3o8        THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

Spinach 

GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  As  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  garden  ground  can  be 

worked,  sow  the  seed  sparsely  in  drills  about  one 
foot  apart.  Cover  with  one-half  or  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  of  fine  soil. 

2.  When  the  plants  come  up,  hoe  between  the  rows,  pull 

out  all  weeds  in  the  rows,  and  thin  the  plants  to  about 
one-half  inch  apart. 

3.  If  the  weather  should  be  very  dry,  water  occasionally,  if 

possible.  If  the  ground  is  not  rich,  sprinkle  a  little 
nitrate  of  soda  between  the  rows  to  hasten  the 
growth. 

4.  As  the  plants  get  of  good  size,  cut  out  about  every  other 

one  to  use  as  greens,  leaving  the  others  to  grow  to 
larger  size  before  being  cut. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting.     Name 

of  variety. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up. 

3.  Date  of  thinning. 

4.  Date  of  first  cutting;  of  last  cutting. 

5.  Conclusions  as  to  culture. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds. 

2.  Seedling  with  two  seed-leaves. 

3.  Seedling  with  two  true  leaves. 

4.  A  well-developed  plant. 


VEGETABLES  309 

THE  STORY. 

Write  or  tell  your  experience  in  growing  spinach.  What 
crops  may  be  grown  on  the  same  ground  the  same 
year  when  the  spinach  has  been  removed  ? 

Sweet  Corn 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  When  danger  of  hard  frost  is  past,  plant  the  sweet  corn 

out-doors  in  hills  eighteen  inches  apart,  in  rows  two 
or  three  feet  apart,  placing  six  or  eight  kernels  in 
each  hill. 

2.  As  soon  as  the  corn  is  well  up,  hoe  the  rows  and  stir 

the  soil  surface  between  the  rows;  pull  up  any  weeds 
that  may  appear  about  the  plants. 

3.  When  the  corn  is  three  or  four  inches  high,  thin  out  the 

weaker  and  more  crowded  plants,  so  that  three  plants 
are  left  in  each  hill. 

4.  The  later  treatment  of  the  corn  consists  chiefly  in  fre- 

quent and  prompt  removal  of  any  swollen  ears  which 
show  the  characteristic  growth  of  corn  smut.  Such 
diseased  portions  should  either  be  buried  deeply  or 
burned. 

5.  Select  a  large,  early  ear  on  a  vigorous  stalk  and  let  it 

mature  for  seed. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting.     Name 

of  varieties. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up. 

3.  Date  of  thinning. 

4.  Date  of  appearance  of  brace  roots. 


3io         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

5.  Date  of  blossoming. 

6.  Date  of  pulling  first  ears.     Average  number  of  ears  to 

a  stalk. 

7.  Comparison  of  early  and  main  crop  varieties. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedlings  when  two  inches  high. 

3.  Tassels  and  ear  when  silk  first  develops. 

4.  Ear  of  corn  at  time  of  picking.     Sectional  diagram  of 

ear  in  husk. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  corn  crop.  Was  there  much 
variation  in  the  number  of  ears  per  stalk?  See 
what  you  can  find  out  about  the  methods  by  which 
the  yield  of  corn  is  increased  by  the  careful  selection 
of  seed. 

Tomato 

STARTING  IN-DOORS. 

1.  Make  little  drills  one-half  inch  deep  and  one  inch  apart 

in  the  earth  of  the  seed-box  by  pressing  downward  a 
ruler  or  other  straight-edge.  Sow  the  seed  in  these, 
leaving  the  seeds  one-eighth  inch  apart  in  the  rows. 
Cover  with  one-half  inch  of  fine  soil.  Water  care- 
fully. 

2.  Keep  the  seed-bed  moist  for  the  next  ten  days.     By 

that  time  the  little  seedlings  should  appear.  As  soon 
as  they  show,  put  the  seed-box  where  it  will  have  all 
the  sunlight  possible,  and  arrange  for  as  much  air  as 


VEGETABLES  311 

can  be  given  without  chilling  the  plants.  Water 
carefully,  preferably  when  the  sun  is  shining. 

3.  The  greatest  danger  to  the  seedlings  is  the  "  damping 

off"  fungus.  In  cloudy  weather  and  when  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil  is  kept  wet  this  causes  the  plants  to 
die  through  injury  to  the  stems.  As  soon  as  any 
plants  are  injured,  withhold  water  and  give  all  the 
air  and  sunshine  possible.  Take  care  also  that  mice 
do  not  nibble  the  seedlings  at  night,  in  the  house. 

4.  When  the  plants  have  one  or  two  leaves  in  addition  to 

the  cotyledons,  transplant  them  to  shallow  boxes,  or 
preferably  to  two-and-one-half-inch  paper  pots.  Set 
as  deep  in  the  pot  as  you  can  that  roots  may  develop 
along  the  stem  above  the  place  where  the  roots  first 
came  out.  Keep  in  a  sunny  place. 

5.  After  three  or  four  weeks'  growth  in  the  small  pots  it 

will  probably  be  desirable  to  transplant  into  three- 
inch  paper  pots.  Set  rather  deeply  down  that  more 
roots  may  come  from  the  additional  part  of  the  stalk 
that  will  thus  be  covered  with  earth. 

6.  As  soon  as  weather  out-doors  permits,  set  the  plants  on 

a  sunny  porch,  or  in  a  cold-frame,  or  in  some  shel- 
tered place  where  they  can  be  protected  at  night,  and 
be  gradually  "  hardened  off."  By  the  time  they  are 
ready  to  put  in  the  garden  they  should  have  buds  or 
blossoms.  If  they  blossom  much  before  they  can  be 
set  out,  pollenize  the  flowers.  You  may  thus  get 
some  fruits  started  early. 

7.  When  danger  of  killing  frosts  is  past,  plant  in  rich  soil 

in  the  garden.  The  distance  apart  will  depend  upon 
the  method  of  after  treatment.  Set  the  plant  so 


3i2         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

deep  that  the  stem  is  buried  in  the  soil  about  half-way 
up  to  the  lower  leaves.  New  roots  will  come  out 
on  the  buried  part  and  enable  the  plant  to  grow  faster. 

8.  If  space  is  very  limited,  and  the  plants  are  set  close, 

say  eighteen  inches  apart,  prune  the  growing  plant 
to  a  single  stalk  and  tie  this  with  cloth  strips  to  a  stout 
stake,  four  feet  high.  With  more  space,  support  vines 
on  a  low  rack  of  slats,  or  within  hoops  around  the 
plants,  raising  the  fruit  above  the  soil.  Cultivate, 
weed,  and  water,  if  necessary,  like  other  crops. 

9.  As  soon  as  frost  touches  the  vines,  gather  the  green 

tomatoes,  then  pull  the  vines  and  burn  them  to  prevent 
the  spores  of  fungus  diseases  from  developing.  Or 
pull  up  the  vines  with  the  unripened  fruit  attached 
and  hang  up  in  the  cellar.  Some  will  ripen  nicely. 

RECORD  or  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  shape,  size,  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up  of  seedling.     Appearance  of  seed- 

leaves  (cotyledons). 

3.  Date  of  transplanting;  number  of  true  leaves. 

4.  Date  of  first  blossom;  height  of  plant. 

5.  Date  of  setting  out.     Distance  apart;  method  of  after 

treatment. 

6.  Date  of  first  ripe  fruit.     Number  of  fruits  to  a  vine. 

7.  Conclusions  as  to  possible  improvement  in  culture  an- 

other season. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedlings  showing  cotyledons. 


VEGETABLES  313 

3.  Seedlings  with  two  or  three  true  leaves. 

4.  Seedlings  when  cotyledons  are  withered. 

5.  A  true  leaf. 

6.  A  flower. 

7.  A  fruit. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  or  write  the  story  of  your  experience  in  growing  toma- 
toes. Calculate  your  profits,  comparing  expendi- 
tures with  value  of  fruit  harvested.  What  other 
profits  ? 

Turnips 
GROWING  OUT-DOORS. 

1.  Sow  the  seed  sparsely  in  a  shallow  drill,  covering  with 

not  more  than  one-half  inch  of  soil. 

2.  In  a  few  days  the  young  seedlings  will  appear;  then  the 

soil  surface  between  the  rows  should  be  stirred  with 
a  rake  to  keep  the  ground  loose  and  free  from  weeds. 

3.  When  the  first  true  leaf  is  developed,  weed  the  rows  and 

thin  the  plants  to  about  one  inch  apart. 

4.  Subsequent  treatment  is  simply  frequent  tillage,  and 

perhaps  an  additional  thinning  to  prevent  too  great 
crowding  of  the  roots. 

5.  Pull  the  turnips  when  they  are  large  enough  for  table 

use  and  before  they  get  hard  and  stringy. 

RECORD  OF  GROWTH. 

1.  Seed:  size,  shape,  and  color.     Date  of  planting. 

2.  Date  of  coming  up.     Appearance  of  seedling. 

3.  Date  of  first  hoeing,  of  first  weeding  and  thinning. 


3i4         THE  SCHOOL  GARDEN  BOOK 

4.  Date  of  first  gathering.     Size  of  turnips. 

5.  Date    of    main   harvest.     Amount    of   yield.     Market 

price  of  turnips  at  this  time. 

DRAWINGS. 

1.  Seeds:  natural  size  and  magnified. 

2.  Seedling  at  time  of  thinning. 

3.  Seedling  with  seed-leaves  well  developed. 

4.  Turnip  with  or  without  leaves  at  time  of  pulling. 

THE  STORY. 

Tell  your  experience  in  growing  turnips,  and  estimate 
whether  there  would  be  any  profit  in  them  at  the  rate 
of  yield  you  obtained  and  at  the  market  prices  at  the 
time  of  your  harvest.  Put  the  story  in  the  form  of  a 
letter  to  some  friend. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

IT  is  very  desirable  to  have  some  of  the  more  attractive  garden  books 
and  magazines  available  for  use  by  both  teachers  and  pupils.  Many 
public  libraries  are  likely  to  have  the  Cyclopedia  of  Horticulture,  and  the 
splendid  series  of  English  garden  books  in  the  Country  Life  Library,  as 
well  as  other  standard  works.  Among  the  less  expensive  books  which  it 
is  desirable  to  add  to  the  school  library  the  following  may  be  mentioned: 

Bailey:  Garden-Making. 

Bailey:  The  Nursery  Book. 

Bailey:  Principles  of  Vegetable  Gardening. 

Bennett:  The  Flower  Garden. 

Duncan:  Mary's  Garden  and  How  It  Grew. 

French:  The  Book  of  Vegetables. 

Hall:  Three  Acres  and  Liberty. 

Jekyll:  Children's  Gardens. 

Kirby:  Daffodils  and  How  to  Grow  Them. 

Rexford:  The  Home  Garden. 

Sedgwick:  The  Garden  Month  by  Month. 

Shelton:  The  Seasons  in  a  Flower  Garden. 

St.  Maur:  The  Earth's  Bounty. 

Thaxter:  An  Island  Garden. 

Watson:  Flowers  and  Gardens. 

Weed:  The  Flower  Beautiful. 

Wright:  The  Perfect  Garden. 


INDEX 


Annuals,  planting,  187;  for  window- 
boxes,  84-86. 

Antirrhinum,  183. 

Aphides,  85. 

April  Calendar,  166. 

Araucaria  bidwelli,  106;  excelsa, 
1 06. 

Asparagus  fern,  183;  plumosus,  104; 
sprengeri,  105,  182. 

Asters,  hardy,  80;  China,  13,  40-45, 
189,  269-270. 

August  Calendar,  241. 

Bachelor's  buttons,  146. 

Balsam,  114. 

Beans,  131,  216-218  ;  bush,  289- 
290. 

Beet,  199-201,  287-288. 

Begonia  rex,  106,  107,  108;  tu- 
berous, 107,  184. 

Boltonia,  79;  asteroides,  80;  latis- 
quama,  80. 

Booklets,  8. 

Borage,  59. 

Brassica  japonica,  237. 

Bulb  crops,  116. 

Bulbs,  45-50;  spring  flowering,  249; 
summer  flowering,  206-209. 

Cabbage,  290-291. 
Caladium,  182. 
Calendar,  April,  166. 

August,  241. 

December,  98. 

February,  133, 

January,  119. 


July,  222. 

June,  209. 

March,  150. 

May,  189. 

November,  86. 

October,  68. 

September,  50. 
Calendula,  146. 
California  poppy,  63,  165. 
Candytuft,  165. 
Caraway,  57,  59. 
Carnation  cuttings,  246. 
Carrot,  160,  201-202,  291-292. 
Castor  bean,  267-268. 
Chervil,  59,  61. 
China   aster,   13,  40-45,    189,   269- 

270. 

Chinese  sacred  lily,  84. 
Chives,  60. 

Chrysanthemum  cuttings,  247. 
Chrysanthemums,  73-76. 
Clay  flower-jars,  108-110. 
Clematis,    Japanese,    178;     panicu- 

lata,  178. 

Climbing  vines,  175. 
Cobaea  scandens,  178. 
Cold  frame,  20. 
Cole  crops,  117. 
Columbines,  174. 
Corn,  132. 

Cosmos,  55-57.  J46,  189,  271-272. 
Cotyledons,  130-132. 
Crocus,  46,  47,  251-253. 
Cucumber,  113,  292-293. 
Cucurbit  crops,  118. 
Cuttings,  35-40. 


317 


INDEX 


Cyclamen,  91. 
Cypress  vine,  177. 

Daffodils,    47,     123-127,     261-263; 

indoors,  81-84. 
Dahlia,  29-35,  2O&- 
Dandelion,  237-238. 
December  Calendar,  98. 
Dill,  59- 

Eschscholtzia,  63-65,  266-267. 
Exhibits,  12-16. 

False  chamomile,  79. 
False  dragon's-head,  77. 
February  Calendar,  133. 
Fern,  Boston,  182. 
Flower,  structure  of,  218-220. 
Flower-jars,  useful,  227-233. 
Flower-pot,  filling,  245. 
Flowers,  starting  early,  145-146. 
Foliage  plants,  101-108. 
Freesias,  253-254. 

Garden,  getting  ready,  61-63;  club, 

W-MS. 

General  exercises,  245-248. 
George  Putnam  School,  81. 
Geranium,  36,  185;  cuttings,  245- 

246. 

Gill-over-the-ground,  186. 
Gladiolus,  207. 
Globe-flower,  173. 
Golden  glow,  174. 
Grevillea  robusta,  105. 
Ground  ivy,  186. 
Gumbo,  295. 

Hardy  annuals,  161;  perennials,  171. 
Helenium    autumnale,    79;    grandi- 

cephalum,  79. 
Helianthus  maximiliana,  79;    multi- 

florus,  78;    orgyalis,  78;    rigidus, 

77 


Heliopsis  pitcheriana,  77. 
Heliotrope,  183. 
Home  gardens,  7,  153-159. 
Horse-radish,  38. 

Hyacinth,  49,  66-68,  254-256;  Ro- 
man, 98,  259-261. 

Ice-plant,  New  Zealand,  237. 

In-door  gardens,  3-6. 

Ipomcea,  175. 

Iris,  172;  border  gardens,  193; 
English,  198;  German,  195, 
196;  Japanese,  198;  Oriental, 
191,  226;  Siberian,  192;  Spanish, 

i98. 

Ivy,  Boston,  178;    Japanese,  178. 

Japanese  iris,  198;  ivy,  178;  morn- 
ing-glory, 84. 

Jonquil,  Campernelle,  249-251. 
July  Calendar,  222. 

Larkspur,  146. 

Lavender,  59. 

Leaf-cuttings,  39. 

Lettuce,  129,  161,  294-295. 

Lily,  Madonna,  50,  219. 

Lily-of-the-valley,    91-93,    257-258. 

March  Calendar,  150. 

Marigolds,  233-235,  272-273; 
dwarf,  85,  146;  French,  85,  146. 

Maurandia,  186. 

May  Calendar,  189. 

Moonflower,  175,  273-275. 

Morning-glory,  175,  273-275;  im- 
perial, 84. 

Mustard,  237. 

Narcissus,  Poet's,  polyanthus,  258^ 

259- 
Nasturtium,     184,     220-222,     229, 

275-277;  dwarf,  221. 
Nepeta,  glechoma,  186. 


INDEX 


New  England  aster,  81. 
Norfolk  Island  pine,  106. 
November  Calendar,  86. 

Okra,  295. 

Onion,  113,  129,  297-298. 

Out-door  gardens,  7. 

Pansy,  239-241,  277-279. 

Paper  flower-pots,  6. 

Paper-white  narcissus,  84. 

Parsley,  59,  61,  298-299. 

Parsnip,  160,  299-300. 

Peas,  132,  160,  300-301. 

Peony,  172,  174. 

Pepper,  128,  302-303,  305. 

Perennials,  hardy,  76-81. 

Phlox,  39;     Drummond,    146,    165; 

perennial,  172. 
Physostegia,  77. 
Plant-lice,  85. 
Poet's  narcissus,  47. 
Poppy,     164,     204-206,      279-281; 

Shirley,  95,  204,  205,  206,  218. 
Porch-boxes,  179,  186. 
Portulaca,  164,  281-282. 
Pot  herb  crops,  117,  235-238. 
Pot  marigolds,  146. 
Potato,  39,  129,  304-305. 
Primrose,    baby,   90;    Chinese,  89; 

obconica,  91. 
Primula,  89. 
Prizes,  15-16. 
Pulse  crops,  118. 

Quack -grass,  62. 

Radish,  147-149,  161,  305-306. 

Red  spider,  85. 

Roman  hyacinth,  98,  259-261. 

Root  crops,  114,  116. 

Root  cuttings,  38. 

Rue,  59. 

Salad  crops,  117. 


Salsify,  160,  306-307. 

Scilla,  47. 

Seed-leaves,  130-133. 

Seed,  selection  of,  93-97;  testing, 
110-114,  246. 

September  Calendar,  50. 

Silk  oak,  105. 

Snapdragon,  183,  219. 

Sneezewort,  79. 

Snow-drop,  47. 

Solanaceous  crops,  118. 

Solanum  jasminoides,  184. 

Spearmint,  59. 

Spinach,  235,  308-309;  New  Zea- 
land, 237. 

Spring  awakening,  the,  159-161. 

Squash,  131. 

Stem  cuttings,  37. 

Subirrigation,  199. 

Sunflower,  dahlia,  78;  October,  79; 
orange,  77. 

Sun  plant,  164. 

Sweet  basil,  61. 

Sweet  corn,  309-310. 

Sweet  herbs,  57-61. 

Sweet  pea,  85,  94,  95,  145.  2I3~ 
216,  282-284. 

Tansy,  59. 

Tarragon,  60. 

Tomato,  128,  130,  132,  3I°-3tI- 

Tools,  8. 

Trollius,  173. 

Tropoeolum,    275-277;    lobbianum, 

221;     majus,    221;     minus,    220; 

peregrinum,  221. 
Tuber  crops,  116. 
Tuberose,  207. 
Tulips,  49,  263-265. 
Turnip,  204,  3I3~3I4- 

Umbrella  plant,  108. 

Vegetables,  classification  of,  114- 
118;  starting  early,  127-130 


320  INDEX 

Vegetable  oyster,  160,  306-307.  Window-boxes,     in-door,     4;      out- 
Vine  crops,  118.  door,  179. 
Viola  tricolor,  240.  Window  gardens,  in-door,  89-91. 

Winter  flowers,  238-239. 

Wild  balsam  apple,  ,77.  Witch-grass,  62. 

Wild  cucumber,  177.  Zinnia,  284-286. 


Useful  Books  for  the  School  Library 

PUBLISHED  BY 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS,  NEW  YORK 


Zoology 


BY  WILLIAM  TEMPLE   HORNADAY 

The  American  Natural  History  Illustrated,  $3.50  net 

"A  great  Natural  History." — New  York  Sun. 

Taxidermy  and  Zoological  Collecting  Illustrated,  $2.50  net 

"  It  is  replete  with  all  that  is  necessary  to  make  a  thorough  workman." 

—  The  Ornithologist. 

BY  ERNIST  THOMPSON   SETON 

Animal  Heroes  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  They  all  have  that  fascinating  quality  which  he  manages  to  throw  around  all  his 
stories." — Brooklyn  Eagle. 

Wild  Animals  I  Have  Known  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  The  breadth  of  his  sympathy  is  the  finest  part  of  his  work." — Agnes  Repplier. 

Lives  of  the  Hunted  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  It  should  be  put  with  Kipling  and  Hans  Christian  Andersen  as  a  classic." 

—  The  A  thenceunt  (London). 

Monarch,  the  Big  Beak'  of  Tallac  Illustrated,  $1.25  net 

"  A  fascinating  account  of  a  bear  family." — Providence  Journal. 

The  Trail  of  the  Sandhill  Stag  Illustrated,  $1.50 

"  I  fancied  that  no  one  could  touch  The  Jungle  Book,  but  Mr.  Seton  has  done  it." 

— Bliss  Carmen. 

Lobo,  Rag  and  Vixen  Illustrated,  $0.50  net 

"  A  faithful  description  of  animal  life." — American  School  Board  Journal. 

Krag  and  Johnny  Bear  Illustrated,  $0.50  net 

"Nowhere  exaggeration,  but  a  true  artistic  sense  of  the  humorous  side  of  nature." 

—  Toledo  Blade. 

BY  J.   H.   PORTER 
Wild  Beasts  $?•«> 

"  He  has  a  sympathetic  regard  for  the  animals  of  which  he  writes  that  fits  him  well 
for  the  task.     His  studies  of  their  habits  and  capacities  are  exceedingly  valuable." 

— St.  Paul  Pioneer  Press. 

BY   N.   S.  SHALER 
Domesticated  Animals  $2.^0 

"  An  exceedingly  interesting  and  valuable  series  of  essays,  and  a  valuable  addition 
to  the  library  of  the  lovers  of  our  dumb  friends." — Public  Opinion. 


Useful  Books  for  the  School  Library 
Birds 

BY  WILLIAM    LOVELL  FINLEY 

American   Birds — Studied  and  Photographed  from  Life  Illus.,  $1.50  net 

"  The  most  delightful  bird  book  that  has  ever  been  written." — TJie  Dial. 

BY  JOHN   B.   GRANT 
Our  Common  Birds  and  How  to  Know  Them  Illus.,  $1.50  net 

"Very  enjoyable  and  instructive." — The  Congregationalist. 

Botany 

BY   HARRIET   L.   KEELER 

Our  Native  Trees  and  How  to  Identify  Them         Illus.,  $2.00  net 

"  No  admirer  of  trees  should  be  without  it." — Brooklyn  Eagle. 

Our  Northern  Shrubs  and  How  to  Identify  Them      Illus.,  $2.00  net 

"  The  photographs  are  very  beautiful,  and  so  clear  as  to  make  identification  per- 
fectly simple."  —  The  Dial. 

BY  FRANCES  THEODORA  PARSONS 

How  to  Know  the  Ferns  Illustrated,  $1.50  net 

"A  notably  thorough  little  volume  .  .  .  the  author  has  mastered  her  subject." 

— Neiv  ]  '(irk  Tribune. 

According  to  Seasons  Illustrated,  $1.75  net 

"The  charm  of  this  book  is  pervading  and  enduring  as  is  the  charm  of  nature." 

— Neiv  York  Times. 

How  to  Know  the  Wild  Flowers  Illustrated,  $2.00  net 

"It  is  exactly  the  kind  of  work  needed  for  out-door  folks." — Theodore  Koost-Tt'lt. 

BY   N.   L.   BRITTON 

Illustrated  Flora  3  volumes.     $12.00  net 

11  Will  find  an  enthusiastic  welcome  in  the  private  study  as  well  as  in  the  class- 
room. ' ' — Chicago  Tribune. 

By  MRS.   SCHUYLER   VAN   RENSSELAER 
Art  Out=of=Doors:  Hints  on  Good  Taste  in  Gardening  $i  50 

"  The  best  work  in  the  field  we  have  had  in  many  a  day." — Neiv  \  ork  Post. 

BY   H.   E.   PARKHURST 

Trees,    Shrubs   and   Vines   in   the    Northwestern    United    States 

Illustrated,  $1.50  net 

"  Is  so  introduced  that  even  the  most  unscientific  reader  can  readily  recognize  all 
the  varieties." — New  York  Ti)>ies. 

BY   LOUISE   SHELTON 

The  Seasons  in  a  Flower  Garden  Illustrated,  $1.00  net 

"Admirably  adapted   to  the  needs  of  people  who  desire  to  utilize  a  small  garden 
space  to  the  best  possible  advantage." — Providence  Journal. 


Useful  Books  for  the  School  Library 
Manual  Training  and  Invention 

BY   DAN   BEARD 

The  Field  and  Forest  Handy  Book  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"A  treasure  for  all  boys  and  not  without  its  use  for  men." 

— New  York  Times  Saturday  Review. 

The  Jack  of  all  Trades  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  This  book  is  a  capital  one  to  give  any  boy  for  a  present  at  Christmas  or  at  any 
time." — The  Outlook. 

The  Out=Door  Handy  Book  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  This  volume  will  be  an  unmixed  delight  to  any  boy." — New  York  Tribune. 

The  American  Boy's  Handy  Book  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"The  book  has  this  great  advantage  over  its  predecessors,  that  most  of  the  games, 
tricks  and  other  amusements  described  in  it  are  new." — New  York  Tribune. 

BY   LINA   AND   ADELIA   BEARD 

Things  Worth  Doing  and  How  to  Do  Them  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  The  book  will  tell  you  how  to  do  nearly  anything  that  any  live  girl  really  wants 
to  do." — The  IV or  Id  To-day. 

Handicraft  and  Recreation  for  Girls  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  The  girl  who  gets  this  book  will  not  lack  for  occupation  and  pleasure." 

— Chicago  Evening  Post. 

What  a  Girl  Can  Make  and  Do  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  A  most  inspiring  book  for  an  active-minded  girl." — Chicago  Record  Herald. 

The  American  Girl's  Handy  Book  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"  It   is   a  treasure   which,   once  possessed,   no  practical  girl  would  willingly  part 
with." — Grace  Greenwood. 

BY   PARK   BENJAMIN 
The  Age  of  Electricity  Illustrated,  $2.00 

"There   is   a   real  fascination  about  this  volume;    the  public  is  indebted  to  Mr. 
Benjamin." — Hartford  Evening  Post. 

BY  CHARLES  STEDMAN    HANKS 

Camp  Kits  and  Camp  Life  Illustrated,  $1.50 

"With  this  handy  volume  a  novice  can  go  into  the  woods  and  come  back  well 
versed  in  woodcraft.  "—-Los  A  ngeles  Express. 


Useful  Books  for  the  School  Library 
Industry  and  Geography 

BY  FRANK   O.   CARPENTER 

Foods  and  Their  Uses  Illustrated,  $0.60  net 

"One  of  the  most  attractive  supplementary  readers  we  have  seen." 

— Newark  Evening  News. 

BY  J.   W.   REDWAY 

Commercial  Geography  Illustrated,  $1.25  net 

A  book  for  high  schools,  commercial  courses,  and  business  colleges. 

BY   HUGH   R.  MILL 

The  Realm  of  Nature  $1.50  net 

An  explanation  of  the  methods  by  which  our  knowledge  of  nature  has  been  acquired 
and  is  being  daily  enlarged. 

BY   N.   S.  SHALER 
Nature  and  Man  in  America  $1-50 

Designed  in  part  for  the  use  of  the  general  reader  and  particularly  for  the  use  of 
beginners  in  the  study  of  geology. 

BY  J.   W.   REDWAY 

Elementary  Physical  Geography  Illustrated,  $1.25  net 

An  outline  of  physiography  with  numerous  illustrations,  maps,  charts,  etc. 

BY  CHARLES   F.   KING 

Elementary  Geography  Illustrated,  $1.25  net 

Profusely    illustrated    with    reproductions    of    photographs    and    with    attractive 
colored  plates. 

BY   HENRIETTA   C.   WRIGHT 
Children's  Stories  of  Great  Scientists  Illustrated,  $1.25 

Written  in  a  simple,  straightforward  manner,  especially  useful  for  children  of  the 
lower  grades. 

BY   PHILIP  Q.   HUBERT 

Inventors  Illustrated,  $1.50 

"The  book  is  alike  interesting  and  instructive." — New  York  Observer. 

BY  JOHN   C.   VAN   DYKE 
Nature  for  Its  Own  Sake  $1.50 

"No  one  can  read  it  without  having  his  knowledge  of  nature  enlarged." 

— Chicago  Tribune. 

BY  WILLIAM   T.   HORNADAY 

<"amp  Fires  in  the  Canadian  Rockies  Illustrated,  $3.00  net 

"A  valuable  contribution  to  the  natural  history  of  the  region." 

— New  York  Tribune. 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS,  NEW  YORK 


RETURN  TO  the  circulation  desk  of  any 
University  of  California  Library 

or  to  the 

NORTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 
Bldg.  400,  Richmond  Field  Station 
University  of  California 
Richmond,  CA  94804-4698 

ALL  BOOKS  MAY  BE  RECALLED  AFTER  7  DAYS 

•  2-month  loans  may  be  renewed  by  calling 
(510)642-6753 

•  1-year  loans  may  be  recharged  by  bringing 
books  to  NRLF 

•  Renewals  and  recharges  may  be  made 
4  days  prior  to  due  date 

DUE  AS  STAMPED  BELOW 


rJUL  2  6  2004 


JAN  1  5  2007 


REC'D  BIOS 


NOV  2  9  2006  -8  oo  AM 


v 


U.  C.  BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 


COSflOQfiESl 


258828 


JL1B  35123 


